AnobiumPunctatum

But I hope you only use it, for separating parts

Concerning the application of CA in very small quantities, I use the ink pen from an old drafting set.  For those of you who aren't old enough to remember, imagine making ink drawing by hand.  I have some drawings that my grandfather made in 1898 while in tech school.  The ink pen is infinitely adjustable and allows you to control the gap and provide extremely small applications of either thin or medium CA.  It doesn't work very well for thick CA.
 
Roger, they do make a vapor free CA that eliminates the nose/throat problem.  It acts more slowly and avoids the flash cure and associated vapors.
 
Bob

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Great progress, Erik

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

FAIRING THE HULL
 
I haven't posted in many weeks, but I have been busy working on preparing Terror's hull for planking. I've been relatively obsessive about this aspect of my build, because getting the shape of Terror right has been a real challenge. She was modified so many times (and had so many layers of planking), that her hull shape was somewhat of a mystery to me (at least at the bow and stern). However, I think I've reached a stage where I can move forward. 
 
Below I'll present the steps in the process and what I learned about Terror (and Erebus), as I worked. 
 
 
 

Before I could begin faring the hull, it was necessary to fill in the 
stern and bow of the model using filling blocks. I created these 
from 1/4" plywood, laser cut using measurements from the 
ship's plans. This image displays the three starboard filling 
blocks used at the bow. 
 
 

The filling blocks were carved to shape using card 
guides cut to match the lines of the half breadth plan. 
 
 

Placing the filling blocks side-by-side as they were carved ensured that they 
were symmetrical. The lamination in the plywood was also helpful
 in this regard. However, plywood is a poor carving material, 
and I would think twice about using it again.
 
 

In 1839, the solid chock (ice) channels on Terror were extended around the bow. I 
constructed these from several layers of basswood. 
 
 

These chocks were then shaped to match the proper cross section of the channels. 
 
 

The ice channels were glued in place on the bow and scrap wood 
was used to rough out the bulwark shape. The excessive
use of glue didn't escape Mini-Crozier's critical eye. 
 
 

The gaps in the bulwarks were filled using basswood strips of appropriate thickness. 
 
 

Rather than filling and sanding seams and gaps, basswood leveling strips 
were applied to the upper surface of the ice channels. The channels
were then filed to shape using card stock templates. Scrap wood was 
used to fill in any large gaps in the bulwarks. 
 
 

The completed bow just prior to sanding. I checked the symmetry 
and level of each side of the ice channel obsessively with a height 
gauge while the model was still on its building board. The
asymmetry of the filling stock used to shape the bulwarks 
is a product of the odds and ends in my spoil bin, and while 
unsightly, it won't be visible when the model is planked. 
 
 

This image shows the faired forward bulkheads and bow filling blocks, just prior to final
sanding. The merchant-like shape of Terror's bow and the imposing nature of the ice 
channel grafted to it can be seen in this view. Note how far the ice channel 
overhangs the bow relative to the port side of the ship; this is because it 
sits on three layers of planking, including a layer of 3" lower planks,
 a second layer of 8" planks, and a third layer 
of even thicker reinforcing planks. 
 
 

An image of the faired stern, detailing the single filling block used 
in this area. The stern rabbet is in the process of being finalized
in this image. 
 
 

With the hull faired, the stern timbers could be installed. These 
were laser cut from Swiss pear.  The outermost stern timbers, 
on the left, were cut in two sections, as they form an angle 
when installed correctly. 
 
 
Prior to describing how the stern timbers were installed, it is important to note how this area of the ship was designed by Oliver Lang, the shipwright who refit Erebus and Terror for the Franklin Expedition. Because of  the massive size of the propeller well and the rudder post which formed its aft wall, Lang had little room left to fit the six stern timbers and four stern lights (windows) in the counter. His solution can be seen in the 1845 Erebus and Terror stern model in the collection of the National Maritime Museum, in Chatham. 

Inspection of the propeller well in that model shows that the stern timbers were actually used to form side walls of the well. However, they could not be fayed directly to the sides of the rudder post as this wouldn't leave enough space for the stern lights (windows). This meant that the stern timbers had to be inset into the sides of the rudder post by three inches to form the side walls of the propeller well. Remarkably, Lang achieved all of this with almost no modification of Terror's existing stern framing. With the rudder post locked directly into the two central stern timbers, the whole structure was incredibly robust.  It is important to note that the inset stern timbers may not have been needed on Erebus, which had a slightly wider counter than Terror. 
 
 

Simplified plan of Terror's counter architecture. Note how the stern timbers overlap 
the rudder post. Also noteworthy is the position of the upper deck transom, 
which could be fayed directly to the aft side of the rudder post in this configuration. 
 
 

In this image, the slot/inset for the stern timber has been cut into the rudder 
post. Note how it is level with the interior sides of the propeller well. 
 
 

A view from the aft side of the rudder post showing the insets for the stern timbers. 
Note the square slots in the stern filling blocks cut to accept the heels of the stern timbers 
(no wing transom was required for construction for this stage).
 
 

Checking the fit with a stern timber. This won't be visible in the finished model. 
 
 

Checking alignment. 
 
 

The stern timbers were fitted with the help of a jig. The jig was designed to be
clamped to the bulwarks, using the station lines printed on it as guides. 
 
 

Detail of the aft part of the jig. 
 
 

A height gauge was necessary to ensure that the jig was properly aligned along its aft margin. 
This gauge slid tightly over the aft support of the building board, using the tracks on the left. 
 
 

The jig and height gauge in place, with the center two stern timbers 
installed and clamped. 
 
 

"Wing transom" filling pieces. These are not entirely accurate architecturally 
(they are more like half-transoms), but were carved and sanded to shape 
to provide a platform for planking the stern. 
 
 

The "wing transom" in place. Note the very slight curve in the transom. As confirmed 
by the 1845 stern model and the 1839 model of Erebus, Terror's 
stern was very square indeed. 
 
 

Rough transverse framing was installed to support the stern timbers. This 
framing is not accurate to plan or scale but rather simply supports the structure
and will not be visible when the model is planked. See the above plan for the
 correct framing. As with the bow, I obsessively relied on a height gauge to 
ensure the entire structure was level and square. 
 
 

A port side view, detailing the stern architecture. Note how the stern 
timbers adjoined the propeller well and rudder post. 
 
 

The completed stern.
 
 
Completing the construction and fairing of the model's stern was a milestone for my project. Not only is the model now ready for planking, finishing this stage of the build revealed a minor mystery surrounding how Lang planked Terror's stern . Lang's 1845 stern refit plan stated that an "....additional part of the wale [was] added to the after end of the ship to form the well or trunk..." for the propeller. Unfortunately, his plan does not reveal if both layers of planking were extended to accomplish this (Terror was double planked against the ice). However, with the construction of this part of the model, his solution became clear to me.

If my model is correct, then it shows that the first layer of Terror's hull planking did not need to be modified in any way by Lang.  In fact, it could simply be left in place, terminating at the edge of the lower counter, as was typical of bomb vessels. Again, if my model architecture is correct, then it shows that Lang could have just extended the second layer of planking to the rudder post. The 1845 stern model shows that this planking rose straight up the rudder post and, when it hit the counter, turned to trace a graceful arc, running from the upper end of the stern rabbet to the lowest portion of the counter at the sides (these planks were fayed directly to the previously planked counter). Lang's stern plan shows that the second layer abutted a beveled margin plank on the counter, although this isn't detailed on his stern model. 
 
 

My planking plan for Terror's stern. The red lines show the lower planking, while 
the white lines show the upper level of planking. The overlap of the planks 
accords well with the 1839 midships section for Erebus and Terror. 
 
 

The current condition of Terror. She's just about ready for planking. 
 
 

A view from the upper deck. 

Hello friends.
 
Artillery of the vessel 74. gunship.
Second batterie gun 18,pdr
Scale 1:15
 
Karl
 
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 165 – Forecastle/Poop Pin Rails
 
Another small task was slipped in to break the monotony of deadeye chains and belaying pin turning.  In the first picture the forecastle pin rail has been made and is being used as a template to spot the centers of the posts on the deck.
 

 
The location is over a beam.  The posts will be set into square mortises cut into the deck to provide more strength to this type of rail.  In the next picture one of the mortises is being started with perimeter cuts using a small chisel.
 

 
The turned posts are 5” (.07”) square, turned as was done for the fife rail posts earlier.  In the next picture the two posts have been set and fitted with pins in the top to secure the rail.
 

 
In the next picture the rail has been installed and the six pins added.
 

 
This is a light duty rail, used to belay the four jib and fore staysail downhauls as well as the two foresail bowlines.
 
Providing belaying points for the running rigging of the mizzen mast proved to be a puzzle.  There are some two dozen light lines associated with the mizzen sails that need to be belayed aft of the mast, below the shroud fairleads through which they run, but with the lack of a raised bulwark on the poop there is no clear place for belaying pins.  The poop deck perimeter will be packed with cleats and lead blocks for heavier lines and the spider band around the mast is fully allocated.  The photo of the ship from the starboard quarter is not very helpful. Time for some historical interpretation – not the first or the last.  I believe there are four possibilities.  First, that the poop monkey rail itself was fitted with pins – unlikely given the small section of this brass rail.  Second, using shroud cleats, but these would be visible in the photo.  Third, using deck cleats as with the heavier lines, but the sheer number of these and the resulting mass of line piled on the deck argue against this.  I finally decided on the fourth option, pin rails similar to the forecastle rail along each side of the forward poop rails.  This was a common method.  The next picture shows one of these rails positioned on the deck to spot mortises for the three posts.
 

 
In the next picture the rail has been set as with the forecastle rail and a drop of CA is being applied to each of the vertical wire bolts.
 

 
The posts of all these rails were glued into the deck with wood glue and the tops with CA.  After applying the drops to the top of the rails it was washed off with acetone.  The bolts were later clipped off and the tops sanded.  The last picture shows the two rails installed with the rail on the near side already being fitted with pins.
 

 
The complement of belaying pins is almost complete – a few dozen to go.
 
 
Ed

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

hello all again;...As an old Dog, I am figuring how to send Pictures from my 'Smart Phone'...smarter than me...another picture. at this point about 25 hours so far.

continuing
 
 

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

The remaining two cat head carvings are now in place below the gun ports and it is time to move on to the ports at either side of the bulkhead along with the catheads and supporting sculptures.
 

 
As a result of a recent discussion with some other modellers, I have chosen to believe that the additional two ports shown at port and starboard location on the bulkhead in the Van de Velde sketch were possibly observation ports as there is a lot of anchor rigging directly in front of the ports from the catheads and it would seem that gunfire from a canon in these ports would not be possible. I intend to construct the catheads and surround these two ports with decorative carvings. I have marked the centre of the observation port openings in pencil.
 
More to follow...........

I can't believe it has been over a month since I posted to the buildlog.  Unfortunately, I have not had much time to work on Atalanta.
 
The chesstree and the fenders are relatively simple structures, being essentially a straight piece of wood with a taper towards the water.  Make this taper first on an overly thick piece of wood and then sand the inside of the piece to match the curvature of the hull.  There is a groove scored on the outboard side.  Since the width of the piece decreases inferiorly, each groove must be cut in separately rather than together with a scraper.  I used a single tooth scraper to make the groove and then turned the piece around to cut the other side.  The chesstree had a sheave built into it.  I simulated the sheave by drilling holes at the top and bottom of the sheave opening and then used a chisel to carve the sheave.
 

 
The next step (no pun intended) was to make the six steps.  These were made up by scraping a molding for the mid-portion and then laminating three strips of wood, two on top and one on the bottom to the molding.  The sides of the steps were shaped with needle files and an 11 blade.  
 

 

 

 

 
The steps fixed to the wale were painted black.  The frieze was carried over the outer surface of the top step.  I left the top of the step solid blue.
 

 

 

 
The main and mizzen channels were added next.  These are pinned and epoxied to the hull since, in my past experience, they are easily knocked off.  The ironwork for the channels is next.
 

I found on my hard disk some old 3D drawings for the project. I think they give some very interesting views about the frameing of the POF model. If I remember right Don has drawn them:
 
 

'Positively final farewell appearance!' So the old theatre posters read. And this is true for the Greenwich Hospital barge. The sub-base has been made and finished, and so is this log. My profound thanks to all who looked in, 'liked' and commented. You are a great world-wide network of craftspeople with whom I am proud to be associated. Happy model-making!
 
Serious enquiries of interest only for acquiring this model are invited.

Hello

Next update...

Some time ago I've made already foretop... but I'm not happy with result... so I've made new one
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo to compare new with old...
 


...and blackening solution...
 

 
Cheers
Matt

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Good Morning - 165 hours into the build and feeling good!  I have just four cant frames left in the stern (25f, 25a).  At this point, I will have reached what I consider the fifth milestone. With such a long build, I have taken the advice of fellow modeler, Bill Edgin, who suggested that I break the build up into "mental milestones" so as to keep my enthusiasm up.  Here are my mental milestons, which by no accident closely follow the layout of the books, Naiad, Vol 1 and 2 by Ed Tosti:
 
1. Careful studying the practicum, committing to the build, assessing the order of construcution, skills possessed and needed to be acquired - done
2. Erecting the building board, associated jigs and tools - done
3. Laying of the keel, stem, and stern posts - done
4. Bow, to include hawse pieces and forward cant frames - done
5. Stern, to include transoms and aft cant frames
6. Aft square frames (to midship)
7. Forward cant frames (to midship)
8. Stabalization of the frames and fairing the sweep of the hull
9. Thats enough for now...  I expect the above to take me about 4-6 months.
 
And now for the progress report:
 

Here are a couple of shots of some frames.  As you can see, there is a lot of template cutting that goes on with a build like this.  I find this work to be enjoyable.  You need to approach it in a logical fashion, or you will run into trouble quickly.  There are upwards of 15+ pieces of wood in the frames once you start the square frame construction.
 

The rough fairing process begins.  Note that I use blue painters tape on the keel.  I find this helps to mitigate any rounging that may incidentally occur while moving the piece to and from the jig.  Keen eyes will note the accidental undercutting of the filler pieces as they meet the rabet in the stern post.  This will get smoothed out, but could have been perfect if I had been more careful as to where my file was...
 
 

The jig in action.  These are "rework frames".  I find that its just plain easier to remake an entire frame as opposed to trying to salvage sections when there are issues.  I have also promised myself not to continue trying to put a square peg into a round hole. When something doesnt fit, I snap it in half and start over.  Its actually faster that way. As fellow modeler Bill Sproul said to me at our Guild last week, "go slow for maximum speed".
 

Naiad, sitting atop a newly arrived batch of swiss pear, awaiting milling. 
 

Awaiting final fairing.  Good enough for now.  Note how the transom pieces end at the rabbet.
 

I am really happy with the symmetry and fit here. But still need a little fairing on the port side by the foot.  The transom was an enjoyable challenge.
 
I am debating about adding the filler frames that lay just aft of the aft fashion piece.  I am a huge fan of showing work, so may leave these out so you can get a glimpse of the inner structure.  I am still undecided, but will move on for now and revisit this once I begin the final hull fairing and finishing.
 
Thanks for checking in, Gary.
 

The 12 gun carriages are now assembled and painted. I really enjoyed making them. The breech line ring bolts will be attached later as a completed breech line assembly. Rather than spray painting the carriages, I decided to try brushing them. The goal was to achieve a more natural look. I was quite worried about the paint starting to look blotchy. Using the right brush, thinning the paint and taking your time seems to help the process go smoothly. The Quoin handles were made from 8mm belaying pins purchased from Model Shipways (also sold by Amati) and will be added after the gun tackle is completed. The handle length is only 1/8" and less than 3/64" wide and they could break off easily. I'm quite pleased with the results and will try to brush paint more often in the future.
 

 
Quoin holding jig for drill press