AnobiumPunctatum

Great progress, Erik

Great progress, Erik

As allway, very impressive work, Paul

As allway, very impressive work, Paul

Thank you....Hopefully I will be able to show the larger barge in progress very soon....it is very similar but with more decoration.  And its much larger.  This one will be fully framed...you can see the keel assembly as compared to the Cheerful model.
 

 

 

 
 
 

Hello

I'm still alive... and today I have little update.
I'm working now on gunport lids.

18 lids... not a lot but... bit complicated because of hinges... 1 hinge = 8 pieces.
Hinges are moving parts. I don't now why because anyway there gonna be fixed Just some kind of mild modellers perversion

Soldering: copper-phosphoric paste

Hinges are not final finished. I'll do final cleaning and polish when I will make all of them... 36
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Kind regards
Mateusz

I cut away the framing at the stern with a small Dremel drum sander.  I then cleaned the area up with sanding sticks.  I thinned the frames to 1/16" using a .060" thick piece of styrene as a guide.  With the planking at the stern still unattached, I sanded the hull bulkhead tops/stern frame tops to get the correct deck curvature.  I figured this was easier to do now, than when the stern area is planked.
 

 

 
Erik

Thank you for this note, Bob.  Using the approach described I became fully confident in the ability to bevel frames completely before erection, leaving only final finish sanding necessary on the framed hull.  I trust you will have the same experience with your frames.  The primary enabler for this and for the pin-indexed frame fabrication process is, as I am sure you realize, the precision of the pin placements on partner frames and also the precision of the three profiles drafted on the patterns for each frame pair.  This is my best example of a holistic modeling process that begins with drafting methods specifically tailored to support the modeling steps.  In his build log for the Irish famine ship, Frank (mahuna) adopted (and enhanced) this method of drafting and is using it in his framing as another example - an excellent one at that.
 
The key to this method is CAD drafting technology, and specifically the use of it's precision in taking and setting measurements.  While CAD can certainly be used to trace over imported images, this is much like using a Ferrari to do grocery shopping.  This method has error implications that may be more or less serious, depending on the modelers expectations for accuracy.   In the case of Young America, the original builder's table of offsets (accurate to 1/8" actual) was used to precisely draw waterlines.  With the fore and aft edges of every frame drawn over this plan, the precise dimension to every point on every profile could be measured and transferred to a body plan view to accurately draw each required profile.  Duplicate pin placement on paired frames was an easy next step.
 
Having an original table of offsets is not a prerequisite to use this method.  Rather than tracing frame profiles or even half-breadth lines from an imported image, measurements of waterlines and ribband lines can be taken from the print and used to create a derived table of offsets.  These dimensions can then be used as described above to create a half breadth plan for the model.  This method requires fairness checking of the half breadth plan to account for potential manual measurement errors and/or distortion in the print used.  This can be done by inspection of the half-breadth lines themselves and by drafting and checking some representative frame profiles from this plan.  When the half breadth lines have been checked to satisfaction, the dimension capabilities of CAD can be used to take and set profile dimensions. Using snap-to-intersection capability and keying in of dimensions to set points assures precision.
 
Some will say, "Is all this precision necessary?"  The answer is, of course, no.  While, it is true that imprecision in drafting model plans can lead to construction problems, nth degree precision is not needed to avoid that.  Each modeler's goals are different - as they should be.  Not everyone is bitten by the structural precision bug.  If you are, the above comments may prove helpful.  
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 160 –Deadeye Chains continued
 
Making the channel deadeyes went like lightning compared to making and installing the chains, but finally the fore and main channels on the starboard side were completed.  The first picture shows the fore starboard channels after painting the cap rails.
 

 
The completed main channel on the same side is shown below.
 

 
The photo highlights the need for some more liver of sulfur on some of the chains.  The deadeyes in all these pictures show very little luster – less than I would like. Repeated doses of Tung oil and buffing have left them flat and lifeless.  Obviously all of the oil has been sucked into the end grain faces of the deadeyes.  To remedy this I am now treating them over the oil coats with my old wood finishing standby, Wipe-on polyurethane.  I have also learned that all this finishing needs to be completed before fitting the deadeyes to the straps – unless they are perfectly aligned beforehand – not impossible but difficult.  In trying to rotate one after some post-application of oil, I broke the strap joint.  You may recall in the last post that I sized the slots in the channels to pass the lower eyes of the chains in case this happened and one had to be replaced.  That was a good idea.
 
The next pictures show work on the fore port channels.  In the first picture the first two deadeye/chain/chain cleat assemblies are installed and a shaped piece for the third is being fitted for cutting off.
 

 
In the next picture it has been cut to size and the top end crimped for the strap joint.
 

 
The size is being rechecked before fitting the strap.  Work continues in the next picture.
 

 
The fit on these is again checked after soldering the straps.  The next picture shows all six shroud chains fitted – minus deadeyes and blacking at this point..
 

 
This picture shows the next (7th) chain.  This simply has an eye at the top to take the standing end of the fore upper topsail halyard. 
 
As a side note, I must say that taking these pictures and writing the text for this blog is often very helpful in finding and avoiding mistakes.  In the above picture you will notice notches cut into the channels between the 5th and 6th shroud chains, supposedly for the halyard standing end chain.  Seeing this located in that position in an earlier photo - when writing its caption - caused me to wonder about that location which indeed turned out to be incorrect – a drafting error.  The incorrect placement of the chain for line 240 can be seen in the first photo of the previous post (159).  The drawing was corrected and the chain was relocated as shown above, aft of the shrouds where it will be free of interference.  The companion chain for the halyard tackle on the other side also had to be removed and relocated – again making use of the increased slot width described above. 
 
There is still quite a bit of this work to do and it is going slowly as I am diverted by the usual list of springtime chores.
 
Ed

Hi Daniel, the blue color is acrylic paint from czech producer (http://obchod.agama-model.cz/cz-detail-235034-r29-p-tmava-sedomodra.html).
 
Aft cabin bulkheads are finished and installed on the deck.

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Working on the stem and the rabbet.  To quote David..."fiddy work".  I keep referring to TFFM and Young America books.  Ed Tosti is a great source of ideas for tools, jigs, etc.  See braces for the bow below.  The wood dowels are tapped and are epoxied to the threaded rod (6-60).  The hole through the 1/4" Plexiglas is tapped.  The units will be screwed to the building board near the front and are fully adjustable to keep the stem plumb throughout the build.  The assembly twisted a bit (1/16+") so heat (hair dryer) was applied while it was clamped flat and everything is now back to flat (or plumb when vertical).
Maury

Thanks for participating in the straw poll! I'm still dithering, but tending toward vertical orientation.
 
Meanwhile, work on the ensigns continues. The first sides are painted. As these will be hanging naturally in folds, the coat of arms is more impressionistic than realistic. The 'white' is actually more a cream color.

Well, a dozen dolphins done! I've secured the model permanently on the base and pedestals and set up a trial placement for the sweeps on one side. Comments, anyone?

The first of twelve dolphins has been painted. It is based on an actual example in the RMG collection. By the way, the oar blade is ⅛" wide. Eleven more to go! (Click on the image to see the complete sweep)

Sunday 01 May 2016
 
Made the Main Stern Post and Inner Stern Post today.
Cut out the two patterns.
Cut a strip of Castello Boxwood to 1/2" thick, Milled to 0.365" (23.36" at 1:64)
 
Per the build contract the stem post is 23" square at the head and begins to taper from the underside of the deck transom to be 12-1/2" at the main keel.
 
You can see I incorrectly identified the deck transom, highlighted them all in yellow and re-identified them correctly.
 

 
Applied rubber cement to the wood and then to the back side of the templates.  Let it dry to "tacky" and then applied the template to the wood.  pressed them down and let them dry.
 
Cut out the two pieces on the scroll saw about 1/16" outside of the line then sand down flush to the line on the table top disc sander portion of my combination belt/disc sander.  I double checked the table was square to the disc first!
 
Glued the two pieces together with yellow wood glue, pressed together and let it dry.
 
Marked off the transom positions from the templates to the end faces.
Marked of the centre lines on the end faces
Marked off the taper on the end faces
Marked off the rabbet line at the head and foot
Marked off the tenon, cut and filed down to a snug dry fit into the main keel mortise.
​There should be multiple tenons but I simplified it to be a single tenon into the single mortise made earlier in the keel.
 

 
Peeled off the templates
Checked it to the plan.... perfect angle.
 

 

 
Still needs to be tapered and recessed steps cut for the Transoms, but I think I will do the Deadwood first as it tapers with the stern post assembly plus it needs to be cut for the rabbet.
 
The contract also calls for a "a square plate of iron of the knee kind" meaning a L shape, 5/8" thick x 4-3/4" wide with the vertical leg 3'-6" (and 3 x 7/8 bolts) and the horizontal  5'-6" long (with 4 x 7/8" bolts).
 
I find it odd that they call up an iron plate below the waterline... Unless it is the newer mixed alloy... this makes sense.
Then again it is recessed into the wood so it would be coated with tar before the copper sheathing was applied.
Would anyone know for sure?
 
That is enough for today.
Thank you for following.

Thanks yet again, everyone. 
 
Now for the repetitive part; twelve sweeps. These were 19 ' 0" long. The blanks have been cut and roughed out using a mill. The first - my prototype - has been shaped. There will still be details to add such as the reinforcing strap at the end of the blade and the leather at the thole. These sweeps would be relatively simple to make, but for the curved blade.

Thanks again for looking in and all the positive comments.
 
Mahuna: I try to avoid sanding carved work whenever possible. If a smooth surface is required, I scrape it.
 
The scrolls are completed and the brackets installed and gilded. All that are left now are two ensigns and twelve sweeps! I'm still undecided as to how to display the latter. I could bundle them and lay them the thwarts, display them 'tossed' (upright) or in their tholes spread out on both sides. Decisions, decisions....

Steven: the ornamental work and stern were simply symbols of affluence and power. Practically, they were of no use whatsoever, other than providing windage!
 
Some further progress on the ornamental brackets. They are glued to a scrap base and the first sides carved. They will then be detached, turned over, and the other sides completed. As you can see, they are rather small and fiddly things to produce.

Completed the rudder today.   As you see,  I created an alternative for fabricating metal gudgeons and pintels.  I dont have the tools to solder brass versions and I hate working in metal.   So I made mine from wood.  I also made a version using laserboard for the straps.  It worked just as well.  These are very sturdy rudder hinges. 
 

 

 
They are three pieces.  All laser cut.  The center is sanded to the width of the stern post and rudder.  Then the straps are added after being cut to length.  They are pre-cut with holes.  24 gauge wire was inserted into those holes after drilling them a bit deeper into the rudder.  Then the wire was pushed into the holes and snipped off.  It was snipped off so the end would stand proud of the straps by just a hair simulating the bolts.   These laser cut "cheat hinges" did a great job in my opinion and they are so easy to work with.  The straps are a bit thick originally but after gluing them on the rudder and hull they are sanded down to a really thin profile.  Then they are painted black after the wire is inserted into all of the holes.
 
For the "hinge pin"  a small length of 22 gauge wire was used.  It was glued into the hole in the center section of this mini-kit.  As a tip for those who will start fabricating theirs out of wood....paint the edges of the straps black ahead of time and you will have a nice neat edge.  You can see the ones on my hull which havent been completed yet.  I still have to add the simulated bolts with wire.   They are unpainted.   Once this is done I will create the tiller.
 

 
AND YES...before anyone asks these are now available as a stock item .   Not just for cheerful as they worked out so well I am sure others will want them.  The straps and center are 1/16" wide which is a typical size and could be used for many other models.  Both laserboard and boxwood straps will be included in each package.  Choose whatever you prefer.  Why havent these ever been made before???   They are wonderful if I dont mind saying myself.  And they are so simple.  Click Here to see them.
 

Thank You.....I just finished making the winch.  This is a pretty straight forward fitting.  The pieces were cut taking the measurements from the plans.  Nothing was to difficult but care was taken to make the winch handles look more attractive than just using a piece of black wire.  So I cut some micro tube to slip over the end of the handle to give it some dimension.   
 
This is the last deck fitting before the rigging prep starts.  I will finish the rudder and tiller first however.
 
Then there is the bowsprit bitts up front which also contain the pawl for the windlass.   But I would like to have the bowsprit made while making that.   Once thats finished I will add the two long guns at the bow......
 
That is everything that is left before the rigging begins so I feel like I am getting into the home-stretch.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Really clever little jig. Thanks for sharing

Really clever little jig. Thanks for sharing