AnobiumPunctatum

Hello,
 
now it is done, the ship is in his case.
The only thing that is left, is to connect the LED's in front of the ship with the switch and the battery. 
 
Regards,
Siggi

Thank you, gentlemen all. 
 
Finally had some quality time on the model. The first garboard plank is now spiled, cut, shaped and fitted. The stock is thin enough to cut with a sharp scalpel blade. The twist was achieved by cold wet bending and holding in place using rubber bands until dry. Castello takes more persuasion to bend than holly. Once the plank was dry, it was glued in place. I needed to cut back the plug more at the bow to allow the plank to land nicely in the bow rabbet.
 
One plank down, many more to go!

Continuation.
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Monday, February 1st, 2016
 
The photos here below are obviously not so great, being them shot using my smartphone in low light conditions, but still give an idea of how the hull looks like when the model was detached from its building board.
 
01 20160201_165033.jpg

 
From this moment it's possible to reuse the first building board I made, although theoretically the hull does not deform anymore, but it makes easier working inside. Later today I finally installed the internal deck, after having applied a coat of glue inside the shell. With the deck installed this coating cannot be seen and then I took the opportunity to further strengthen the planking of the hull.
 
02 20160201_164938.jpg

03 20160201_164930.jpg

04 20160201_164923.jpg

Regards, Jack.

Sorry, for the late reply, Jack.
 
I add a picture from a reconstruction drawing of Werner Dammann. It shows a possible viking style figure head for the Gokstad ship.
 

 
If you have a look at the original in the Oslo museum, you see that stem is also a little smaller than in your model.
Werner Damman shows in his wonderful book about the ship also another solution that as far as I know is the most common interpretation
 

 

After the full model, you should be able to do the deck framing in your sleep, Dan! Looking good.

..... continued.
 
An interesting little piece of "iron" work is a pair of Iron Knees, used to brace the Beam Arms. The pics should be self-explanatory :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

A small update: Before waxing the plug, I drew in the overlaps of the clinker planking. I made them 1" wide and are seen as dashed lines on the plug. Two coats of Clapham's beeswax polish were used over the mark-out.
 
Leaves of ¾" thick Castello have now been prepared for the planking. They were cut a little over-thick and then taken down almost to spec on a thickness sander. Finer grades of sandpaper on sanding blocks produced a smooth surface. Hopefully there will be time to commence planking soon.

That's correct, Joel - I hope! The last clinker boat I built was done this way. It's amazing how clinker planking holds the boat's shape. I even took the boat off the plug when half-planked to demonstrate. The frames will be bent in later on in the process.

I started a new build The Emma C. Berry. I have been regulated to a couple hours on the weekends lately and the garage is too cold to work in, I have to put it away every night. I am very excited about building out my new shipyard in the new house we are building. We are 4-6 weeks out from completion and will be moving yet again. The admiral and I are more settled in our jobs now so hopefully this move will be less stressful.
 
I've been following a couple of other build logs to get to this point.

Nice progress, Jack

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

Thanks to all of you for your kind comments about my work, greatly appreciated. Jack.
 
Continuation . .
 
Further images of the clinker planking . .
 
01 29012016 P1100455.jpg

02 29012016 P1100456.jpg

03 29012016 P1100457.jpg

04 29012016 P1100458.jpg

Regards, Jack.

Thanks, Siggi. I do have some photos of that barge, but if you have some you'd like to share....
 
Update: I had to rework the forward hull, as I'd omitted to remember that the sheer strake narrows almost to a point at the bow. Both sides of the plug are now lined out to my satisfaction and have been checked by viewing from all angles. It always surprises me that lines that look sweet from one angle look awful when viewed from another! Several re-works were required before arriving at what you see in the photos. I may spot more minor adjustments to make before committing myself to the plan.

Nice progress, Jack

Congrats, Siggi. I love the coloring of your model. It's exactly what I like to do on my sloop.
I hope you show us a lot of pictures of the finished model in her case.

Congrats, Siggi. I love the coloring of your model. It's exactly what I like to do on my sloop.
I hope you show us a lot of pictures of the finished model in her case.

Thanks to all for nice comments .
Few last days I colored inside and outside of the hull. Now I am able to install prepared parts.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 137 – Bilge Pumps 1
 
You may recall from an early post that suction pipes were installed from the limber channel at the garboard strake up to the main deck just aft of the main mast.  There, the two pipes were terminated at an iron plate on the deck.  Unlike earlier chain pumps that could only pick up water from above the floor frames, reciprocating suction pumps that came into use in the md 19th century could lower their intakes to the underside of the floor frames. This was discussed in earlier posts.  The first step in constructing the pumps was to make the two cast iron casings.  The completed casings are shown mounted in the first picture.
 

 
Casings typical of the times – these being only typical of the type and not based on a specific specification – usually consisted of a cylinder to house the piston and a second chamber or reservoir to collect the water and discharge it from the pump.  The integral assembly was cast iron.  There were two options that I considered for making these.  They could be machined from a block or they could be fabricated.  I chose the latter approach, using telescoping brass tubes.  The first fabrication step is shown below.
 

 
The main cylinder consists of a brass tube and the secondary reservoir is made from a similar tube that has had a portion sliced off on the circular saw.  In the picture the two pieces are shown ready to be soldered together.  The next picture shows steps after soldering the two tubes shown above.
 

 
The soldered pieces were first cut to final height.  Rectangular shapes were then soldered top and bottom.  The assembly on the right, shown upside down, has had its flanged discharge pipe installed the top rectangle shaped and drilled as shown to be open at the top.  The next picture shows the first soldering step with the cylinder assembly held in place on the top plate for soldering.
 

 
The device and surface shown in this picture is a new tool acquisition that I will discuss in a later post.  After the top plate was soldered on, the two top holes were drilled as shown in the next picture.
 

 
After drilling through from the bottom and soldering on the bottom plate, that plate was then drilled to fit a spigot that would fit into the suction pipes at deck level.
 

 
In the above picture the top figure eight flange has been roughly shaped.  The two finished casings are shown in the next picture prior to final pickling and blackening.
 

 
Also shown in this picture is the piston/crankshaft assembly.  A supporting iron standard with a mounted bearing is shown at the center of the shaft.  Work on this assembly will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Friday, January 29th, 2016
 
In the last days, I proceeded to apply planking with the famous method called "clinker": I was a little worried, however, so far, it has been going pretty well.
 
The pre-cut strips, already shaped, until now worked in an excellent way. The only flaw is that each strake is composed of two strips, one long and another shorter. And this fact required a joint and only after some time I finally realized that the shorter strip had exactly the same shape as the initial part of the long one and then I could put alternately forward and aft as desired with, in my opinion, a better result.
 
The poop is smoothly evolving, except for some points to be finished after the stern wheel, while the bow is much more tricky: its evolution is different than that of the stern and the strips must be forced a bit more to follow the water lines.
According to me the prow strips had to have a different shape for this zone, not equal to that of the stern. But for now that's fine too.
 
After have installed a pair of strakes I should be able to detach the model, it should not move anymore, from the board so I'll can install inside the deck and then proceed with the sides with the hull upside right.
 
However I need to proceed quite slowly, maximum a few strakes per side each day . . but it is better than I thought.
Regards, Jack.
 
01 29012016 P1100451.jpg

02 29012016 P1100452.jpg

03 29012016 P1100453.jpg

04 29012016 P1100454.jpg

 

Sorry, for the late reply, Jack.
 
I add a picture from a reconstruction drawing of Werner Dammann. It shows a possible viking style figure head for the Gokstad ship.
 

 
If you have a look at the original in the Oslo museum, you see that stem is also a little smaller than in your model.
Werner Damman shows in his wonderful book about the ship also another solution that as far as I know is the most common interpretation
 

 

Now things start to get interesting. The plug was repeatedly gessoed and rubbed down to a smooth surface. The next step is to line out the planking. There are two stages to this process. The first is mechanical: dividing the surface into equal parts at various points along the hull. In this case the draught showed eight strakes. The distance around half the hull at the dead flat was exactly 4' 0", so each stroke is 6" wide at that point. 
 
Once the hull has been divided into 8 bands or strakes, these need to be finessed so that, no matter from which direction you look at it, the planking runs smoothly to the eye. The bow-most third of the hull gave the most difficulty, as there is a pronounced hollow to the form. In some cases the variation of the thickness of the pencil line (very thin) was enough to make the difference. In others the line had to be moved by as much as 1/32". I may still play with the layout a little more before I'm completely satisfied.
 
The layout at present makes no allowance for overlaps of the clinker planks - that will come later, as will the shift of plank butts.

A couple of quick grab shots.  I tested the smoothness of my fairing job by temporarily fastening a batten strip at various positions on the hull.  It's smooth!
 

 

 
Erik

I finished the first rough fairing on the port side.  I've done a whole lot of sanding over the last week!!  There are spots I need to touch up, particularly at the bow, but I'll wait to address those until I do the fairing after I frame the gun ports.
 

 

 

 
Erik