AnobiumPunctatum

The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.

So let's start again
 

All frames are drawn and I started to build the keel.
 
Thanks for your interest and

 
and a Happy New Year

Today I've finished the drawing work for the frames. 55 frames and 26 cant frames are a lot stuff, which I have to build now.
 
The following picture shows frame 10a for example.
 

 
Now I have to clean up my work room and prepare the building board. I hope I've nothing forgotten so that I can make sawdust and start the build of my model

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

Docmuents (I will update the list during my build):

NMM drawings:
ZAZ4667: Line & inboard profile, decoration of 'Fly' ZAZ4669: Lower & Platform Decks of 'Fly' ZAZ4670: Quarter and Upper deck plan of 'Fly ZAZ4691: Disposition of Frames of 'Cygnet' Books:
David Antscherl, "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780", Volume 1 - 4 David Antscherl, "Swan class sheer and profile, scale 1:48", corrected frames Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal Navy ships David White: Understanding ship draughts David Antscherl: Understanding Eighten-Century Admirality drafts

Be careful with black paper. I've the exerience that the gluing is not stable. The problem is that paper has different layers and the wood glue will not go through all. I prefer black pulp, which I found in an hobby store. It has only one layer.

All frames are drawn and I started to build the keel.
 
Thanks for your interest and

 
and a Happy New Year

Today I've finished the drawing work for the frames. 55 frames and 26 cant frames are a lot stuff, which I have to build now.
 
The following picture shows frame 10a for example.
 

 
Now I have to clean up my work room and prepare the building board. I hope I've nothing forgotten so that I can make sawdust and start the build of my model

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

Be careful with black paper. I've the exerience that the gluing is not stable. The problem is that paper has different layers and the wood glue will not go through all. I prefer black pulp, which I found in an hobby store. It has only one layer.

All frames are drawn and I started to build the keel.
 
Thanks for your interest and

 
and a Happy New Year

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

@Ed
 
Thank you. I use also the waterlines of the half breath plan. I am sure that's a lot more work to draw this manually because it was more than enough work with my CAD.
 
 
You're right. But it made a lot of fun to do this exercise.
Also I had some points I want to check with the drawing. On the Half Breath Plan were only the positions and angles of every second cant frame given. I wanted to check the reconstrction of the other cants. What's with the position of the gun ports? WHich cant frames do I have to shift? Is every timberhead given in the Sheer and Profile drawing on top of a frame?
 
If I compared the position of the timberheads given in the Sheer and Profile of Fly and in the DOF plan of Cygnet, I found some alterations, for example at the fore cants. I wanted to check the consequences for the frame design.
 
@druxey
I've checked the position of all timberheads of the Sheer and Profile drawing and my reconstruction again. At the after cant frames I found two timberheads whose position do not really match with my cants. The position of the other four timberheads is ok.
So I think to change my design will not solve the problem.
What do you think is the better solution? To move the timberhead or to add a timber between the frames and not to change the position.
 
@all
Thanks for your interest and hints, which I really appreciate.

Be careful with black paper. I've the exerience that the gluing is not stable. The problem is that paper has different layers and the wood glue will not go through all. I prefer black pulp, which I found in an hobby store. It has only one layer.

All frames are drawn and I started to build the keel.
 
Thanks for your interest and

 
and a Happy New Year

Today I've finished the drawing work for the frames. 55 frames and 26 cant frames are a lot stuff, which I have to build now.
 
The following picture shows frame 10a for example.
 

 
Now I have to clean up my work room and prepare the building board. I hope I've nothing forgotten so that I can make sawdust and start the build of my model

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

Ed, thanks for the explanation

Be careful with black paper. I've the exerience that the gluing is not stable. The problem is that paper has different layers and the wood glue will not go through all. I prefer black pulp, which I found in an hobby store. It has only one layer.

Today I've finished the drawing work for the frames. 55 frames and 26 cant frames are a lot stuff, which I have to build now.
 
The following picture shows frame 10a for example.
 

 
Now I have to clean up my work room and prepare the building board. I hope I've nothing forgotten so that I can make sawdust and start the build of my model

Hallo Gary!
I will follow with great interest your work: my next site will be just the Naiad of which I'm already studying the excellent monograph of EdT!

Really wonderful model. I got a lot of inspiration from your work. Thanks for that

Hi Guys,
 
Here it is not long continued, but I promise that I will continue to build the end of January at the William. I have the ship "Eagle of Lübeck 1565" restored in recent months for a customer. Now it's done, and I can devote myself to the William again. Bye now !
 
The pictures show the eagle after its completion.

Again, thank you for all the great comments and support.  I appreciate all the "follows" and look forward to the popcorn and beer!
Greg- good eye on the "S-curve" of my lower apron, I hadnt noticed this.  Although the glue-up has already happened, it wont show in the final product.  I appreciate the comment and will be sure to incorporate it into my next ship.
 
As for my log - Since EdT and Albert have done such an outstanding job narrating thier logs, not to mention Ed's books, my plan here is to focus more on techniques and sequences not already illustrated.  No sense talking about measurements, since that stuff is already well documented.
 
Below is the lower apron/stem/keel all glued up and ready for final sanding, which will not take place until further down the road.
 
The knee of the head has not been glued in yet.  I still need to taper it as well as cut the gammoning slot.  I am waiting for my new micromark mini drill press that Santa is putting under the tree, courtesy of my wonderful Admiral.  I opted for boxwood on my false keel and did not ebonize it.  I just liked the look.  I used ebony on my Rattlesnake and was looking for something a little different. I also prefer natural woods as opposed to paint. 
 
While I want to be historically accurate (and this build allows that), I am not a strict purist in the sense and will carefully defer to artistic license at times. 
 

 
Over the weekend, I plan to install rising wood, the bollard timbers, taper and install the beak, cut the rabbet, and construct the stern deadwood.  Yes, I am goal oriented...
 
Happy Holidays!
 
G