AnobiumPunctatum

As allway, really neat and precise work, Paul.

My sympathy and condolences to you, Toni. It's not an easy decision to make: been there, done that.

After the drawing works it was time to make sawdust.
 
First part is the keel, which is a little bit tricky. The keel has a light curvature and the joints are perpendicular to the base line.
I cut some small stripes with my cirular saw, make the joints and glue the parts together. Next I added the parts for the stem.
The picture shows the step on the building board. I use Tamiya Tape to avoid that the keel glues on the paper during the build.

 
The next pictures show the complete assembled backbone for the small vessel,

 
the stem with with the changed layout of the parts,

 
the keel and the rising wood,

 
and the stern post with the after deadwood.

 
The next steps are cutting the rabbet, the keelson and the building board. Then I can start with the frames.
 

I was really suprised that I did not find a build log about the Naval Cutter Alert on MSW 2.0. I know that there exist some pictures of a model on the old MSW
 
The first source for building a model of this small vessel are Peter Goodwins book "The Naval Cutter Alert, 1777", published by PhoenixPublications Inc. 1991 and the two original drawing of her sister Rattlesnake (1776) which you will find on the homepage of the NMM.
There also exist two paintings of Joseph Marshall of the ship, which are exhibited in the Science Museum, London.
I found also an Sheer and Profile drawing of Alert which was published by the NRG.
 
The sheer and profile of the NRG and Goodwin differ from the original drawing. They show the maximum width of the ship not at frame 0. Perhaps my Engish is to bad, but I could not find any reason for this. So I decide to draw my own lines. which were based on Goodwin and the original drawing.

 
The drawing is not finished, because I decided only to draw what I need for my build.
 
Next step was the keel. Goodwin shows for the pass between keel and lower apron a solution which I could not find on any original cutter drawings.

 
For the after deadwood he does not offer any possible solution

 
I decide to follow the original drawing of Cheerful 1806 for the pass between keel and lower apron. The flat joint at the foremost keel part is shown on original drawings of this period (for example on HMS Triton). For the after deadwood I decided to use a bearing line. I am not sure if this is common for ships of this period.
The next picture shows my completed keel drawing:

 
Goodwin uses for his design the common frameing pattern of double and single frames. I am not sure that this design was used for the original ship. For the Swan class sloops only single frames were used. This you will also find on the drawing of Cheerful and other cutters. Also the wide of the frame parts are not clear. In his drawing he uses much smaller futtocks than he descibed in the text part of the book. In his "Construction and Fitting of Sailing Man of War" he gives a third solution.
What now? Alert is a practice model for me to get the experience to continue my HMS Fly build. Marshall shows on his paintings an simplified frameing design, so I decided to use this. Every frame is 8'' width followed by 8'' space. For the port side I like to show the clinker planking.
On my drawing the final design for the last frame and the hawse pieces is missing in the moment.

 
The drawings for every 31frames and 21cant frames are finished.

 
I am not sure in the moment if I will use the original practice with chocks or the simplified method of Harold Hahn for my build.
 
It will be very nice if you have further information about the cutters of this time. I found the Marmaduke Stalkartt on Google-books, but they didn't scan the plates. Perhaps one of the MSW user can help me to confirm my decisions.

My new keel drawing is finished.

 
Next I will draw the frames and build the new bigger version of my keel

As allway, really neat and precise work, Paul.

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Working on the first strakes.  The center and aft sections go on first, then the drop plank.  First pieces  are tapered to about 1/2 full width between bulkheads B & J then installed in segments.  Aft section takes a big twist as it gets to the square tuck.  Next are the drop planks.
Maury

...

...

I was able to complete the port painting after applying about 15 thinned coats of red over a dark pink base. The temporary battens marking the bottom edge of the wales were pinned evenly on both sides of the hull. For the most part the batten runs matched the reference lines along the bulkheads very closely.
 
 

 

System, thank you for sharing your picture of Sadie with me.  Hopefully my Sadie will be able to pose for the camera soon.  
 
Thank you everyone for your kind comments and thanks for all the likes.  The good thing about a recuperating dog is that they sleep a lot.  So I got in a little workshop time today.  With something as complex as a stove, one needs to ask how much detail is necessary.  I decided to make the spit holders, the vertical ash grate (the horizontal one cannot be seen once the stove is installed) and the ash bin.  These were made from brass wire and shim brass cut and filed to shape.  I rolled the grate rods between my fingers to get that "used" look.  I left the ring bolts bright just for some contrast.  I may change my mind and blacken them before final installation.  They are only press-fit in place.  The stove and ash bin sit on an iron platform.  I used blackened brass and burnished it to get some color variations.  I am considering removing it as the stove visually fades into the black background when viewed from above.  One must remember, unless I put a fiberoptic scope through a gunport, the only way the stove will be seen is from above.  I will decide in the next few weeks.
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks guys, but the pics above only show the damage, not the repairs (there was damage on TWO masts). Here are the repairs :
 

 

 
 Danny

I know how you feel. I had the same experience a few years ago. Since this I make every evening I work on my drawings a copy on a second harddisc

I have attached another photo of Sam Parent's Philadelphia for you guys to drool over.  The details he has added are plentiful and truly make this a remarkable model. 
Sam is new to the NRG, I signed him up at the contest, and I am going to ask him to join in here.  I gave a spiel at the modeler's symposium there about MSW and the NRG and I think we probably already have some new lurkers at MSW from there.  Maybe he will share more photos with us.
Photo by Sam Parent.
Kurt

your kidding right?    ...and on both counts,  to boot?!?!      after seeing the process you went through to build her........I find it hard to think that rigging would be your Achilles heel.  nor would I say that I'm the least bit bored.  you've done a fantastic job on her.......I like to see the rest 

Really wonderful small - sorry, very small model.
I found your log this morning and was very impressed by your skills.

small progress on upperdeck , and gunwale.

as i said , interior  red-white .


it is, in fact, the presentation.

the port side will be covered completely, both inside and outside.will also be painted in the colors of the era.

sorry for delay jan. yes , cannon are resin cast.

some work at starboard.
 

Lately I worked a few Deadeye.


were 1 mm in diameter, and are of plum wood

still working on the lower deck.

i have a problem , and hope somebody here can help me. I do not know how these ships were painted inside.rif Winfield's book I found only how to paint the exterior.thank you.

After processing the block exterior , I simply detached pieces, one by one, carefully numbered,worked inside and thickness, and relocated using keel.

 

Gabriel, your work is very inspiring to look at. can you explain the difference between the picture that shows the frames that are glued with the newsprint and the one that shows the frames with the spaces between.
How did you remove the newsprint and get the spaces?
 
The interior work is amazing!
 
Michael