AnobiumPunctatum

Really nice progress Chris.
What glue do you use ? In the instruction manual Shipyard shows a contact glue (Pattex) and I was really surprised to see this. I am thinking to use Titebond woodglue.
If the the weather is so worse as expected, I will start the build of my model today.

Chris,
 
congratulations for reaching this milestone. I started yesterday with page one of the instructionbook.
This anchor is looking really modern. Did you some research? If I am back at home I can check if I find something in my books.

Chris,
 
congratulations for reaching this milestone. I started yesterday with page one of the instructionbook.
This anchor is looking really modern. Did you some research? If I am back at home I can check if I find something in my books.

This anchor marks the end of Book I of the instructions, hooray! On to Book II -- I started tapering the mast today.
 

Really nice progress Chris.
What glue do you use ? In the instruction manual Shipyard shows a contact glue (Pattex) and I was really surprised to see this. I am thinking to use Titebond woodglue.
If the the weather is so worse as expected, I will start the build of my model today.

Thanks, Christian.
 
I use both Titebond and medium-cure CA, depending on the task.

Really nice progress Chris.
What glue do you use ? In the instruction manual Shipyard shows a contact glue (Pattex) and I was really surprised to see this. I am thinking to use Titebond woodglue.
If the the weather is so worse as expected, I will start the build of my model today.

And finally, some real progress to show. Forecastle complete and mounted. Just a few small bits to do before beginning masting and rigging.
 

 

HI eveyone,
 
Working away. I have installed the foremost port spirketting, using the idea from Rob Napier of SWOPEM (Situation Where One Piece Equals Many) in 18th century ship model construction. You can see the  hooked scarfs inscribed in the single spirketting piece, which allowed me to fit and stain this piece outside the model, then install for a clean line to the waterway. I will hide the vertical joints between these large spirketting pieces behind the standards.
 
Clamping was challenging; I made a shaped block for the outboard side at the centerline, which hooks over the stem to keep it in place while placing the clamp. I also had to use some pins in hidden places to keep the piece tight to the stem and to the waterway while putting the clamps in place.
 


 
While waiting for stain and glue to dry, I continued to work on the stove predating the Brodie stove. Here is all the information I have on my NMM plans for the Bellona ca. 1759:
 
 

 
It matches almost exactly in dimensions the stove shown in the NMM plans for the HMS Dorsetshire of 1757, which has more detail. Check out the massive nozzle to the left:

 
Note in both cases the 4" substance sitting between the stove and the deck below. Mark P.'s original contract from this pre-Brodie stove period clearly calls for a lead-lined tray shaped at the edges by cants around the stove, and says nothing about brick. Looking at the model of the Princess Royal of 1773, 20 years later than the Bellona but a little before the Royal Navy switch to the Brodie stove, the model indicates what Rob Napier interprets as masonry on the base, painted this nice cream color and with a roughly 1 foot square paving pattern (see below). But also notice that it has a black cant around the outer edge. This seems to accord with the drawings of the Bellona and the Dorsetshire. So I wonder if the brick sits over the lead tray but was not mentioned in the contract, or if there were several ways this was done before the Brodie stove, sometimes with lead only, sometimes with masonry.
 

 
Given the certain information of a contemporary model that is consistent with my Bellona drawing, I have decided to go with this attractive cream colored base. Whether it is masonry or not I will leave to the imagination of the viewer!
 
Now, on to some interesting details at the roasting end of the stove, on the right side of the elevation. In the Dorsetshire drawing, the fire grate for the roasting area sits to the right and at the base of the dotted curved line. It appears to be open all the way up to where the chimney starts to angle in. Right in the center of this open space appear to be four horizontal round bars seen as circles in this elevation.
 
We can also see these in the Rob Napier's photo of the Princess Royal stove, below. The location of these would seem to prevent the use seen later in the Brodie stove of arms that can be swung in and out of this fire for holding pots. Indeed, the Princess Royal stove seems to show a shallow pan at the top of the horizontal bars; was this for frying? The pan does not show in the Dorsetshire drawing.
 
Also, note in the Dorsetshire drawing 3 wiggly shapes projecting out from the face of the fire, with one, three and then two hooked shapes for holding a horizontal spit bar or bars, perhaps? they can's swing in over the fire, since the bars are in the way. Did they roast on spits hanging at different distances from the fire, to control the heat? There is definitely a tray for drippings under all of these spit bar holders. So were these wiggly projections just bolted onto the sides of the stove, like the simpler spit bar holders in the later Brodie stove? That will be my best guess at this point.
 

 
All for now!
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Your section is looking fantastic

Okay, you might have to look hard to see the difference between this photo and the previous photo -- just a few new bits. Next up is building the forecastle. I stained all the parts today, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to start it.
 

Okay, a little progress. Mounted the posts for the backstays and shrouds, along with the sterncastle ladders.
 

other photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Christian. Am not sure this will work but will give it a try.   As far as any figures in a smaller scale am not sure but will check. It does seem that they have quite a few figure's to chose from but not sure on the scale. Gary

Gary,
 
can you send me please a link to the figures? Do you know, if they have these also in other scales?

Upper deck framing well underway, always a constant battle against cumulative error but that’s why I am constantly checking against my framing plan to minimize its affects, you can maybe just see the overlay that I print out on transparency film to help me do this.
 
ben

Hi every one. Finally got my camera charged up and took a few photo's, hope you enjoy them. The figures came from shape way and ideal of using them came from Chuck. Spent the day painting them  and  have white hair like their owner. 😁Gary

FINISHED= you have completed construction on it (as originally planned).  If your intent is to not have masts and rigging, then your model is finished.
 
In this case your VICTORY would NOT be finished, because it is missing a couple decks.  😁

I speak German, but I couldn't read the text. I think that this are an old dialect and letters.

He probably would have just whittled away some wood from the framing until he got his pre-cut panels to more or less fit properly. 😋  Well, at least that's what I did.
 

 

The stern castle substructure is now complete. A dry fit to the hull revealed a couple of things: First, don't hang the rudder until after the stern castle is on the hull! Second, it will take some very careful fitting work to get the stern castle to sit properly on the lower hull. But before I do that I need to construct the windlass, and before I do that I have to get hold of some dye for the kit's white cordage.
 

Well,lesson learned -- I had to peel apart and re-glue all the poop deck bulwarks, but other than that little speed bump, work is progressing nicely.
 

Got the various bits of the bow in place. This completes the basic hull structure. @Chuck Seiler The ladder turned out to be too wide to fit its spot. I had to disassemble it and trim about 1 mm from each step. I glued the sides in first and added the rungs afterward. Next task is to fabricate and hang the rudder.
 

Upper decks planked and hatchway installed. I had to stain a few bits off the model, so I went ahead and also stained the existing interior framing, along with the last plank that I installed. Looks pretty sharp, I think -- it's kind of growing on me.

Next milestone reached
 


After eight nine strakes of lapped planking, the instructions call for staining prior to installing stanchions. The Polish name for the suggested stain color wasn't translated, but in the photos it looks something like golden oak. I went instead with golden pecan, which has a redder tone. I like the result.