DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING!
×
.jpg.2c2c29e54623bd7b752bc2cdab599665.jpg)
Danstream
-
Posts
755 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Danstream
-
.thumb.jpg.c459ce4140b54c12eddb8eedfd446df3.jpg)
Thank you Phil for your nice comment! Thank you Gary! Yes, the size of this model is quite minuscule although 1:48 scale. The biplanes of that era were not large in comparison with more modern stuff. Sometimes I struggled to get around the model especially when working between the assembled wings. Best regards, Dan -
Great news, Rob. Finally your black beauty is successfully concluded. Great model with a great finish. Cheers, Dan
-
Thank you Alan for your nice comments about my build. I am sorry for your misadventure at Schiphol. I live not far from there and I could have brought you to a huge hobby shop nearby Schiphol to spend some time (and money perhaps), although visiting Amsterdam is much more interesting from artistic and historical point of view. Good luck for the continuation of your trip, cheers, Dan
-
Thank you a lot Andrew for your nice comments. I appreciate them! Thank you Ken, I am glad that you like my work. Yes, Airfix is very good. Wow Martyn, thanks for your great comment. Best regards, Dan
-
Than you Jan for your kind comment which I appreciate greatly. I am also happy that you commented positively the pictures. About the setup, I have to admit that my setup is very basic and simple as shown in the picture below. I just use what I had in the house. In the past, I was used to use two 5000K table lamps, but recently I like to use natural light diffused by the window light curtains. I hope that my basic approach is not disappointing anyone. I always tend to stay as basic as possible in many of my activities and step up with equipment only when necessary. Of course, the drawback of this simple setup is that you have to wait for a bit of sunshine and this is sometimes a bit of a difficulty in winter here in Holland 😉. What I do to get best results is to use a very small diaphragm aperture to get the maximum depth of field and use the maximum tele lens setting to flatten the perspective. Both of these things call for extremely long exposure times which require clearly the use of a tripod. For triggering, I use a timer, so I don't need to touch the camera to shoot a picture. In addition, I very often take several 'bracketed' under/over exposed shots and select the one that I like best. I hope you like my, perhaps, too long explanation, warmest greetings, Dan
-
Thank you Chris! Thank you Rob for your positive comment. I also like the B&W shot version, I often play with that. Thank you Yves for your enthusiastic comments about my model! Yes, the latest Airfix kits are getting really nice. Best regards, Daniele
-
As others said, leave it alone for a while, then come back to it with a fresh mind. Cheers, Dan
-
Dear all, after a long absence, I am back with the final pictures of my completed model. Bristol Bulldog MK II No.17 Squadron, Upavon, England 1930 This is the recent Airfix 1:48 scale kit which I competed by the end of last year. As said above, this kit is very nice, with a very good fit, especially for the inter wing struts which go together with no necessary adjustments. I liked building it, but I didn't like the quality of the plastic. Being a biplane, I think that the sequence of assembly is not for beginners and also the sequence for painting it is not the easiest. But I am pleased with the final result. The rigging was a bit of a challenge for me, but the instruction sheet provides an excellent guide for it. I took these picture with a Nikon D3100 with its aperture priority mode under natural day light. I hope you like also this model and any comment or criticism will be welcome. Best regards, Daniele
- 60 replies
-
- 13
-
-
-
I have just seen the last pictures of your finished Arado. It looks great, you built an impressive model very carefully detailed and finished. You implemented a rather high degree of weathering, but that looks quite credible. Well done, especially thinking that you are new to this genre. Best regards, Dan
-
Very nice build, painting job looks great. Best regards, Dan
-
Glad that you recovered so well the number decals. As you said, the finish looks like a piano, simply beautiful. Cheers, Dan
-
Thank you Gary, for your nice comment. Indeed, it was a bit of a work to paint all the various finishes, but it paid off. Regards, Dan
-
A very short post with only one picture just to show the repaired tail skid (as I said, I replaced the bent part with a piece of brass tube): To answer to Andy, @realworkingsailor, this picture shows also one of the fin flash decals that are now glued on. Due a trip abroad, I will have this build on hold for a while. Enjoy your hobbies and see you in a couple of weeks, Dan
-
In fact, this is why I need to repair it asap before I finish the build. Cheers, Dan
-
Thanks Andy! Indeed, it is very easy to damage the finish and the more you go on with the build, the more difficult is to repair it. It was an interesting building experience. For the fin flash there are two options, one is a complete three colors decal for the complete rudder, the second is to leave to the modeler to paint the three bands and then just add the identification letters and numbers. At this point, I am a bit tired of this model, so I am going for the quicker former one. Cheers, Dan
-
Hi, thanks for the notes and the 'like's! I am now completing the application of the decals that, as I said earlier, are of very good quality. Some of them are really large and some care is necessary to avoid folds and bubbles. The lower side is completed: What is still missing on this side is the small rack with the bombs and the transparent cover of the ventral light. The upper side: Here a number of small items needs to be completed. Once well cured, I think of sealing these decals with X-22. The propeller was painted following pictures found on the web along with the small propellers of the power generators: Wood grain was sketched with an oil brown color. Unfortunately, handling the model, I found the the tail skid was bent. This might be due to the not so good plastic material that has poor mechanical qualities and get easily yielded. A small surgery will be necessary to replace the plastic part with a brass tube. All these final bits take a lot of time for me and I have to put extra care for not messing up things at this stage. That is all for now, probably the next post will be the final one. Best regards, Dan
- 60 replies
-
- 17
-
-
-
VTOL(s) by yvesvidal - FINISHED - 1/48th - PLASTIC
Danstream replied to yvesvidal's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Thanks for your answer. Surely the French engineers made extensive testing to support their design. This is the norm. As a side note, I just mention that a symmetric section is also able to produce lift when it is at an angle with the flow. A symmetric section would have been much easier to be build in a controlled way. I think that with an annular wing, the lift is not just the integration of the local forces of the sections, but also the synergy that the tube produces as a whole when at an angle of attack. It goes without saying that when the plane is vertical, it must entirely rely on the trust of the engine to stay aloft. Best regards, Dan -
Thank you Rob, happy that you like it. Cheers, Dan
-
I am glad that you are back with another awesome model. Best regards, Dan
-
VTOL(s) by yvesvidal - FINISHED - 1/48th - PLASTIC
Danstream replied to yvesvidal's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Awesome thematic collection, Yves. Perhaps, my preferred is the French Coleoptere. I am amazed by the fact that it flew and somebody could control it. BTW, you wrote that the annular wing had a variable section along the circumference; is this documented or is a deduction of yours? Best regards, Dan -
That is a nice metallic finish! I could comb myself looking into it 😉. Dan
-
Very neat and awesome model! Cheers, Dan
-
Thanks Gary for your appreciation. Indeed, when I have to apply some pressure to hold firmly the model, a latex glove helps a lot not to leave marks on the paint, especially when dealing with metallic paints. Thanks Alan, it is true that rigging a biplane takes some time and patience. I had to break it down in several sessions to make it more bearable. But, in the end, there is some sense of satisfaction when it is completed. Best regards, Dan
-
Hi, I went on with rigging my biplane after having decided to use an elastic thread for that. This was a first for me and I went through a learning curve with the application of this stuff. Practically, that means that the last wires are more cleanly glued that the former ones. I will have to live with that. Some of them are going through the top wing, as shown below. After some fights, the rigging is completed and the top wing is sanded and eventually painted: And now, this is how my Bulldog is resting on its own wheels: As a conclusion, I can definitively say that I will have enough with biplanes for quite some time. Now the remaining work should be downhill (I know, I should never say that in advance). Best regards, Dan
- 60 replies
-
- 15
-
-
-
Hi all, I am proceeding slowly ahead and I finished in all details the lower side of the upper wing: The upper wing is then installed on the cabane struts and the wires are passed through the wing and tensioned. Now we have finally a proper biplane: Actually, the fishing line that I used here to make the rigging wires, contributes to the stiffness of the assembly. For the other rigging wires, though, I am considering using an elastic thread. Then, also the other interplane struts are installed: Thanks to the precision of the kit parts, the biplane assembly was trouble free and seems quite sturdy and well aligned. Meanwhile, the wheels are completed: The aluminum rim of the wheels is made with decals provided with the kits. Next, I am proceeding with the interplane rigging which I guess will take a while. Best regards, Dan
- 60 replies
-
- 15
-
Our Emblem ®
