tomsimon

Sounds like a scroll saw is the way to go.  The next question would be which scroll saw is recommended?  Guidance appreciated.  The kits the scroll saw would be used on are a Billings: Golden Hind (480), Jylland (465) and Cutty (459), and Mantua Peregrine Galley, 

I have a Dremel Stylo with a lot of bits. Do you think I can use that?  I am trying to not damage the existing wood, so I am being extra, extra, extra careful with which method. Thanks for everyone’s help. 

I have a few vintage, wood kits that are not laser cut panels. The lines on the panels are very clear. Is there a reasonably priced wood laser cutting machine on the market, where one is able to place the panels in the machine and the laser simply traces cuts on the lines?  I don’t need all of the bells and whistles and it does not need to connect to a computer for CAD, etc. Just something simple. Thanks for any/all help. 

This is a wonderful approach: "most Billing kit list the fittings you will need to complete the model," but I have a challenges to report. 

1. The Golden Hind's (Ship Kit No. 480) manual says that within the manual is a list of the fittings needed to complete the kit.  The manual is not missing any pages and I am unable to find the list of fittings.  I have looked over the included parts list which is in the manual including the color schemes and I am unable to see where the fittings would be listed.  All of the parts list point to the plate number with the "loose" pieces listed.

2. For, Cutty Sark Ship Model Number: 459 and Jylland (Ship Kit No. 465) Fittings Kit Number: 466, the manuals are complete, but do not say that the fittings kits parts are listed, however, both manuals do list the parts and color schemes.

Is there something I am missing?  Help is appreciated.  Thank you

I am in need of 3 Billings Boats Fittings Kits which are all discontinued.  I have tried various retail channels with not so much progress, either, which is understandable considering the age of the model kits. 

Here is the list

1. Golden Hind (Ship Kit No. 480) Fittings Kit Number: 481

2. Cutty Sark Ship Model Number: 459 (fittings kit number is not present on box or manual)

3. Jylland (Ship Kit No. 465) Fittings Kit Number: 466

These are wonderful, vintage models ship kits I would love to build, but am missing the fittings kits.  Thanks for any/all help.  

This has been an invaluable topic of discussion for me.  I wanted to send a thanks to all who were kind enough to help.

Invaluable link. Thank you for providing. I will review, soon. 

Is there an available video tutorial on lining off the hull?  Thanks. 

So, to sum it up, any type of CA glue is best only used as an anchor point, but not for a complete application of, such as, planking a hull. This arose out of CA being sold as gap filling glue, which now understand is not a best use of the product. It’s PVA all the way. 

Is it safe to say that gap filling, CA, medium glue is the same as pva or would pva be better suited because it can resist stress better?  

Thanks, Roger. I am grateful for your guidance Since I am focusing on plank on bulkhead models, would it be wise to read up on Underhill’s books Vol 1 and 2, as those seem to be about plank on frame?  Thanks. 

Thanks for the info. I’ll be sure to lookup Underhill’s Books, as well as posting to the build log section for guidance. 

Hi Roger: I am satisfied with buying kits and assembling them using kit supplied parts.

Thanks for your help. Kits would be 1600-1700, rigged, plank on bulkhead. Looking forward to further book suggestions. 

Hi Team MSW:

I am interested to discover what other books I (a newbie) should read to acquire the best know how and how-to, before I dive off into my first build.  Here is my existing book collection, and what other books should I add?  Thanks

Ship Modeling Simplified: Mastini, Frank

Lusci's Ship Model Builder's Handbook: Lusci, Vincenzo

Period Model Boat Manual: Conte, J.D.

Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern: Roth, Milton

Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders: Dressel, Donald

Period Ship Kit Builder's Manual: Julier, Keith

Amazing insights here.  Thanks.  So, would it be agreed that the best method is to, ACC  gap glue,  between beads of carpenter’s glue on plank strip edges, when planking?  The original question is a result of  reading Frank Mastini's, Ship Modeling Simplified, Page 36, Planking the Hull-The First Layer of Planking.    

Thank you: @allanyed, @Richard44, @Dr PR, @GuntherMT and @ccoyleall for the useful insights.  I especially like this method and will more than likely implement it on my soon to be, first build.

Quote

You don't need to try to get glue between the plank edges while planking - just glue the planks to the bulkheads. This way you don't get glue on the exterior surface where it can spoil the surface of unpainted wood. After the planking is finished apply the epoxy to the hull interior. The epoxy paint will seep between the planks and soak into the wood making a very strong bond between neighboring planks and between planks and bulkheads. After it hardens you can finish sanding/scraping/painting the hull and it will retain the final shape forever.

I, also, understand that CA neither handles stress well, nor does it age, best, on  a model one would like to keep for generations, so it would be unwise to solely use CA, for planking purposes.  

Hopeful all are having a marvelous Holiday Season. Why is it appropriate to bead ACC  gap glue,  between beads of carpenter’s glue on plank strips when planking a hull?  It would seem easier to only use ACC, so that the plank strips adheres faster to each other with no need for pins or a wait time for the carpenter’s glue to dry.  What am I NOT understanding about the “ACC, carpenter’s glue” (repeat) method of planking, or is it just a preference?  Looking for insights, so that I build with less error. Thanks. 

An excellent read for a beginner Modeler or a professional needing to get back to the basics. Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern is the Modeler’s compass, a K-12 education in ship modeling and a career counselor. Most importantly, thank you, Mr. Roth, for introducing me to Lusci, the great!

Thanks all for insights. I have learned a lot about staining, painting and sealing wood properly and how best to make wood appear it’s most natural. 

Thunder and Bob: Thank you very much. Would you recommend that shellac should be applied to the wood before staining, also, or only before painting?  Thanks

13 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

"I've waited a couple of days after painting my hull and it's still all sticky and not dry..." we'd be rich people today. Learn to condition your paint

Hi Bob: Thank you for your narrative. If you are able, would you, please, provide details about, the quote above. I know there is sage advice in there, but I can’t seem to decipher. Thank you. 

Let’s say that I have just finished planking the hull, should I paint/stain or wait until the entire ship is done?

Looking forward to insights on painting and staining. Is it best practice to paint/stain as a model ship is being built, or is it better to wait until the entire ship is built, then paint and stain?  Thanks for insights and help. 

Thank you, mtaylor  and Edwardkenway for welcoming me.  Louie da fly, thank you for recommending a build log and your positive feedback about the FIFIE, Lady Eleanor model.  I am so glad to hear of your friendship with Frank Mastini, Ryland Craze.  You are blessed to have connected with him.  And, I am confident He is grateful that you are commemorating him with thoughtful and positive memories, thereby helping persons, such as myself, to learn more about wood kit ship building.  Thanks for the welcome, JJT, and, a G'day to you as well, Jim Lad.