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DaveBaxt

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Everything posted by DaveBaxt

  1. All very good points and have to admit the household vac I am using at the moment is way to noisy, especially as it sits under my work bench so noise is very important for me and is possibly the deal breaker for me. Once again I thank you for a timely intervention. Best regards Dave
  2. Thanks for adding that John which explains a lot and why the Sparex is needed. I think the chemistry is not one of my stronger points but will take a look and see if I can digest some of it. Best regards dave
  3. Sounding better by the minute . Thank you for your quick response and think I will take a punt with this on e as I really like the price. Haha
  4. Thanks for that and I will take a look at them and see if there any stockests in the UK. Just found this Fein cleaner, which looks really good and discription. Double the price of the Henry but like the idea of the large capacity and high specs. I will have a look at what reviews there is? I can find Best regards Dave
  5. Thanks for the link but would liek some feed back on that particular item. I will look into the Little Henry which I believe are very common here in uk and if its doing a good job for you, I will definately look into that. I came across this version which I am happy with the price. https://www.equip4work.co.uk/numatic-nrv200-commercial-dry-vacuum-cleaner.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw-ZCKBhBkEiwAM4qfF3D8QBznbSTZruqCY4lhvqQjJ7Dp_ymd5o5P8O_64qLOsL8jlNCLjxoC_wEQAvD_BwE .There are however cheaper models but not sure of the power. Perhaps you could be a bit more specific in what model you are running. Does it reqire changing the bag every time it is cleaned or can you just clean them? Best regards Dave
  6. I have recently purchased a number of Proxxon tools including the FET saw. I am now looking at vacume cleaner which I can connect to the FET asw ( continously) and also use it for other areas in the workshop. I live in the uk so must be 230v ac with preferably a 3 pin plug. I have been looking at the Proxxon wet and dry vacume cleaner which has the correct attachment for the FET saw, however I have had difficulty sourcing this in the uk. Ebay sell them but ends up taking about 3 weeks from Italy. Just wondering what other alternatives there are in the uk, or where I can get the Proxxon vacuum cleaner here in the UK Best regards Dave
  7. Thank you for the link john. I think that was the first thread which got me onto this Pickling before blackening idea. Best regards Dave
  8. Well done Allan you have rescued me once again . Thank you for taking your time to do a search for me. Argos of all places, who would have thought haha. Just a thought but would these pots from argos not be too big for my needs?
  9. After due consideration of finding a safe/cheaper alternative here in the uk I think acetone will be the way to go. Sounds like vinegar might help do the trick so will give this a try too. Once again I thank you for your input. Best regards Dave
  10. Hello and thanks for your reply . It was your earlier post which gave me the Idea of using Sparex .Unfortunately I am unable to source this in the UK and ca only get it from the US which is about 4 x cost for postage. I also noticed that a small pickleing pot is also quite expensive here in the uk so I am looking for an alternative. I would just like to thank every one for helping out on this . Best regards Dave
  11. This sound like some serious stuff and I am not sure I want to go to such lengths to ensure that I have sufficient blackening on my brass parts. Perhaps after due consideration I will see how I get on with acertone and possibly some wire wool. I am very grateful for your reply which may have saved me from serious injury. I wonder what warning is given on the packaging and which way round to add what to what. Best regards Dave
  12. What are the guys using for cleaning brass before using Brass black . I read on hear that some people are using Sparex in the US but unable to source this in the UK. Any alternative out there in the UK. I am also confused as to why some people are using sodium bicarb to neutralize the Pickling agent and then Acertone afterwards. The last bit is what confuses me , Why would you then use the acertone after the sodium bicarbonate ? Best regards Dave
  13. Keep up the good work and I will be interested to see how you achieve the weathering effects.
  14. I would just like to add another thank you to all who have contributed to this thread as it has become another very interesting subject . Like everything in the wonderful hobby not everything is as it first seems and always needs to be investigated. Hopefully my skills are at a level where I can put my new found knowledge into practice. Best regards Dave
  15. Completed the second planking from the wales to the keel ,working with 1mm x 4mm Walnut. It didn,t work out as well as my last ship the Bounty which was also in Walnut but only 0.5 mm thick and easier to work with I think. I had to use a few steelers to fill in the gaps at the deadwood area .A lot of work still to do to with sanding and filler to get it presentable . Fortunately this area is painted. Hopefully I make a better job of the rest of the planking up to the Bulwarks.
  16. Thank you for the above Everyone. I have only recently been to see the Trincomlee but unfortunately I did not notice the waterways as I was too busy looking at the rigging and other things. I definately need to take a trip to Whitby at some stage as I haven't been there for years and should be a bit less busy now the holidays are over. I can now see the scarf joints in the cap rail after take another look at the photo and if the water way is similar I will be happy with trying this out. Just for one more question if I may if the waterway is thicker could you not just use 0.5 thick wood and lay it on top of the planks? Although inaccurate will probably look the ok. Best regards Dave
  17. Spy glass Thank you once again for your help. But now I am confused as in your photo is what I thought was the Joggling and does not show the scarfing joints where th pieces of the waterway join together. Also I think what the seaman is standing on would be the waterway Please correct me if I have this wrong in anyway . Great photo by the way. Best regards Dave
  18. Thanks guys for you responses and just as I thought I had the hang of this I have done some research on scarfed joints and all I could find is this previous post of which is a bit complicated for my taste. However I would imagine I could use a scarf joint without the hook bit which I have seen but can,t remember where. Also in the previous post there is a few options as to which and I personally think the top one in A looks the best on a curved bulwark but not sure if this is acceptable. Any help with this would be appreciated. Best regards Dave
  19. Once again thank you Gary As I have already got some planks twice as wide as the deck planks I would like to use them for the waterway. Ufortunately they are the same thickness but as the scale 1:64 , as you say should be able to get away with this. I have already made a template of the deck so have an idea of the shape of the outside edge of the waterway but it would be even better if I had some idea which is the best way to lay the wider planks(waterway) in relation with the bulwarks or where to start Hope this makes sense. Best regards Dave
  20. Thanks for correcting me in what these deck planks are called Joggling and now appreciate that it would be incorrect in doing this to the HMS Bark Endeavour and so will not carry this out. However Morgan you do however mention that the planks do run out and butts up against a waterway and not just up to the bulwarks. So is this waterway a wider plank to incorperate the shape of the bulwark or is this also something which was not used until the 19th century and should not be considered for the Bark Endeavour Again I would like to thank every one for your replies. Best regards Dave
  21. I am currently getting closer to doing my deck planking and I am thinking of incorporating the above. I have a German link which although explains the process ,for me it is a bit vague and I am hoping some one has a more detailed approach. https://www.modellskipper.de/Tipps/Tipps_zu_Decks_und_Beplankung/Einarbeiten_von_Fischungen I am also wondering how accurate this fishing is in terms of , is it commonly used on vessels such as the HMS bark Endeavour 1758 or whould it be used for a different period of ship or is it purely for ornamental value. Best regards Dave
  22. I am currently building my 3 rd model and only my second period ship. My first ship was also a Billings model but found the Instructions and drawings very sparse. I managed to finish the HMS Bounty by Amati and like you did a blog . I got lots of help and incouragement of the members on here and would not of finished her otherwise. I also asked numerous questions and have redone parts more than I would care to admit. But eventually I got there.I look forward to your progress which I am sure will be a help to us all. It is always interesting to see what the differences are between the kits for the same ship.Best regards Dave
  23. Got you and thanks for the explanation.. Not seen them over here but will take a closer look for them.
  24. What are these about I can see the different shapes but wonder if they are rigid or flexable . Do you attach the sand paper to them or are they already abrasive? Why do they call them soft sanders? Sorry for the dumb questions. Best regards Dave
  25. Looking good so far and some great photos of your build and would like to follow your progress if I may. Keep up the good work and good luck with the build. Best regards Dave
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