DaveBaxt

Thank you Druxey for that great photo regarding the slots to allow water to drain away but not sure if that is the case on the Endeavour but an interesting idea all the same.Regards the bolts going into the hull, I am assuming this is what the brass rods are supposed to simulate? You may well be correct regarding the position of the shrouds in regard to the mast and will have to go with what you have suggested and the drawings I now have available to me . Best regards Dave

Allan I have now been looking at all that you mentioned and I am now thinking of removing the section of the 4mm wale where the 2mm channel fits and then fitting a piece of 2x 1 mm walnut under the channel, which hopefully will help to strengthen the channel. I am also thinking of fitting brass rods into the hull for extra support. As the channels are only 2 mm thick I think I can only fit a max of 1 mm brass rod and hope this will be sufficient. I haven,t got much thickness spare so hopefully this will be ok. The channels are really small compared to my last model so its a bit of a learning curve for me. I am wondering how to mark the holes in the hull for the brass rods and thinking it would be easier to drill right through the channels and then whilst the channels is in the correct position I can then mark the holes by using a drill through the holes in the channel. Hope this makes sense. I have been looking closely at the link you sent me and in the side elevation of the endeavour it shows that the forward shroud looks to be in line with the aft of each mast wxcept for the mizzen mast which is well aft of the mast. I am sure I read somewhere that the forward shrouds should line up with its corrisponding mast but I have looked through my books but cannot find where. Sorry again for another question but I would like to know precisely what are the rules for this if any? Thank you again for taking your time to answer all these questions. Best regards Dave

Regarding the position of the wales. Thanks to Allenyed who kindly supplied me with the following link to the origonal plans it would look like the wales are cut into the wale somehow. I just need to fid out the best way to do this. It may have been better if I made the wales to suit the channels first .

Cheers Derek. I am still making a few mistakes , fortunately they are not the same ones as my last build the Bounty. There are a number of things I might do differently on my next build. Seriously looking at Vanguard for hopefully better instructions.

Wales fitted and coarse sanding done 240 just 320400 to do ready for sand & sealer and then final sanding with 400/600 then. I then need to fit various port lids. I have been looking at the position of the channels which according to the drawing is fitted to the top ( side rail) wale and it looks like it is fitted just below the just below this wale, however in all the photos bar one and including the Endeavour replica is inline with this top wale. I have discussed this in the following thread. Also here is a few photos of the progress so far with the wales fitted. I have just notices there is one more to fit hwich is just below the Transom.

Thanks guys. and just for a bit more back ground here is one of the photos that I have of the replica. I suppose if the position of the Channels could change, Is there any models of the Endeavour out there which have the Channels under the wale? Just wonder where Caldercraft got there information from. Thanks you Allenyed for the link to the photo which also has the channel in line with the wale.. I also wonder what position other model makers of the Endeavour have their Channels. I thought I would also add a photo of the drawing I have form Caldercraft. F Am I correct in thinking that if I place the Channels where indicated there would be a reduced chance that the shrouds would clear the cap rail . Also does anyone actually fit the channels onto the wale itself and pin right through into the hull ? ( As stated inthe book Historic ship models by Wolfain Monfield. In my last modal The Bounty and my first .I cut the wale away then fitted the channel onto the hull. What is the correct procedure? Sorry for more questions. I have since looked at a number of photos of this vessel including the replica and paintings other than the model made by Caldercraft there is only one that I could find from the Australian Maritime muesem ( sorry I could not copy and paste this for some reason) so it would appear that both could be correct. If I did however fit this under the wale and cut the wale to fit the brackets ,I think this would be very strong. Best regards Dave

I am currently building the HMb Endeavour by Caldercraft and according to the drawings the Channels are attached to the Hull directly under the upper wale or as they call itupper side rail. However when looking at a the replica of the Endeavour you can see from photographs that the channel is in line with the wale and not underneath. I have looked at one or two blogs of this and can only see they are the same as the replica and even look like they might be attached to the rail/wale and not the hull but doubt this as it would not be strong enough. Unfortunately I do not own the AOTS book of the Endeavour to check this out .Although this has probably no bearing on which is correct my last ship The Bounty by Amati also had the Channels in line with one of the wales/upper side rail. Hopefully someone can help me with this. Best regards Dave

Thank you David and I appreciate the reply. Good luck with build and I look forward to your progress

I am assuming its just a case of adjusting a pressure switch to get the required output pressure or is it more complicated than that?

Ah! rhat Ah! that was the question I was asking myself ( but as usual I didn't know the answer) So \if I decided to go down the air brush route for painting I would need another compressor or can you raise the pressure enough to work for both? I have just received my crock pot and Sparex for pickling so for the time being I will be using this for removing any unwanted residues, but always nice to lean about more alternatives. Thank you once again for your input. Best regards Dave

Starting to look like an awsome model and appreciate the work gone into such a huge model. Well done so far and I look forward to your progress. I am currently building the Endeavour by Caldercraft and after purchacing the book AOTS Diana I have been considering this for my next model but as yet have not attempted a ship with copper tiles or so many gun ports. Good luck with your future progress. Best Regards Dave

Thank you . Yes they look to be very reasonably priced. Best regards Dave

Unfortunately I do not own an air brush as yet .( Only modelling for a couple of years) but do have a couple of spray cans including primer. I am still currently building up my tool store but hope to one day step up and get one. The Air eraser also sounds interesting and will do a search for them and see if there available in the UK. Once again I would just like to thank every one for their help on this subject. Best regards Dave.

Thank you for answering that perfectly!

Sorry if this has been covered many times but not coming up in a search. Is the above necessary and if so how best to do this. I have used a basic metal primer but does not stick to well and is easy scratched off. Does the metal need treating prior to priming such as acetone or pickling etc?

I am now considering the stern facia . Although the instructions say fit this before fitting the second planking I purposely left this until after the second planking as I thought it would be easier to trim the second planking at the stern before fitting the stern facia. Also it would be easier to clamp the 1.5x1.5 mm strips of walnut to the stern facia before fitting to the hull I also sometimes wonder if it would be better to fit the wales at this stage, but on this case will follow the instructions and fit the stern facia before the wales. I will take another look at the other Endeavour builds and see what the other guys did. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I am also considering leaving the inner bulwark planking until I have fitted the deck planks as I intend to fit waterways and think any inperfections of the waterway outer edge will be hidden. I am not 100% sure if this is the correct way to do this but think it will be the easier as I did make an accurate template of the deck, only a tracing of the deck after the first planking was done. Hope this makes sense. Best regards Dave

Completed second planking and started the sanding process. I need to fill some gaps with glue and found it was better to water the glue down so it would run into the gaps. The photos are of completed hull with coarse sand paper. next up will be using medium and fine grade sand paper before sand and sealer followed by super fine sand paper.

Stay brite looks to be available here in the uk and thinking of trying it in paste form hoping it would be easier to use. Thanks once again for your help. Best regards Dave

Got it John. Thank you for clearing that up and make sure I get it right.

I appreciate that soldering is another subject matter but I am assuming using Sparex before soldering helps to clean up the brass so the solder takes better. AS you have already mentioned it also helps to remove any oxides after using a torch. Am I correct in thinking that the blackening will not take to the solder? As I am going to try and do some soldering on my current build and listening to your good self I have decided to go down the Sparex route and have purchaced the equivilent here in the uk ( link provided on this thread) I have also purchaced a 1.8 ltr crockpot which will hopefully be suffiecient for my needs. For the record what is the percentage of mix of this stuff to water and how long does it take to pickle before soldering and blackening? Best regards Dave

Sounds like you have a state of the art workshop. Unfortunately I am currently living in two sheds which are purpose built for modelling. One is currently for the power tools, the other for everything else. Fortunately the one for everything else is insulated. Best regards Dave

I would once again like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. I have eventually gone with the Fein model herehttps://www.axminstertools.com/fein-dustex-25l-wet-and-dry-extractor-230v-506260 By the time I bought the tools and a couple of extra bags it is about as much as I can spend. No doubt there will be something out there that is better. There are some terrific choices when one starts to look into it, so asking on here has been a great eye opener. Thank you all!

Thanks for your input.They do look very slick. So another to possibly to consider? I am now leaning towards either Festool or fein as both are stocked at my local Axminister store and would like a closer look. Best regards Dave

I have been looking at the Festool also but think they are bit too pricey for me having spent a fortune already on a number of Proxxon power tools. Once again thanks for your help and I hope you get what you need as noise in the work place is not something I would like. I see there is an Axminster tool store about 30 miniutes from me so think I will take a look aswell. Best regards Dave