DaveBaxt
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Thank you for your reply and I am sorry if I was unclear . I appreciate your reference to the rigging but what I suppose I really wanted to know is , what is the purchase and pendant ,if not what I suggested, as these have different sizes as you have kindly stated. Also according to my source ( Historic ship models) the thickness of the Braces are thicker than the pendents ( 35% and 25% respectively) which does not make sense to me , thats why I am querying about pendents .Also the Tye is 50% and the purchase is 30% . The halyard is not mentioned. I assumed that the purchase is where the halyard is secured to the deck .Again if this is correct I cannot understand why the purchase would be smaller than the Tye. These percentages are of the main stay which is 100% .Best regards Dave
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Just looking at the different rope sizes for running rigging and noticed several references to rope sizes for purchase and pendants. For example Main mast Tye and purchase and Braces and pendant. I am assuming that the purchase is for the halyard and the Brace pendant is the pendant block attached to the yard. I might be wrong but if my thinking is correct The pendant on the braces is larger than the lifts which seems a bit odd to me. I am just trying to work out what threads will be needed for the running rigging as the Kit only supplies three different sizes of natural thread. I now see why you guys make a lot of you own rope. Best regards Dave
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I have just received my 1 mm black thread made by Caldercraft , together with some aluminium tubing. Sent by first class and it has taken a week to get here so not too bad! There are faster options which in the pas have been exceptional but a tad expensive, especially if you are only ordering a few things. I would imagine they have hada big increase in demand due to Covid 19 and the increase in the uptake of the hobby. No complaints from my end.
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Yes. I noticed that too. I am still waiting for the black 1 mm thread from them which I ordered about a week ago. They are normally first class. No pun intended.
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I have just noticed for some reason in the HMS Bount kit by Amati that there are no clips for the upper deadeyes supplied and states that there are 5 mm dead eys only. I have also noticed that one of our well known model shops supply spares for Amati and lucky for me they supply 5 mm clips for around the dead eye which looks exactly the same as the Caldercraft upper chain clip. together with hooks for the Futtock shrouds so I have ordered enough plus a few spare to complete my Bounty. I am not sure if I will be able to drill a hole fore the two prongs to fit so will have a go at soldering and see how I get on . Thanks once again for all your replies. Best regards Dave
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Thanks again Roger. Sounds easy enough and definately something to think about . I still have the top and topgallant dead eyes to do, so I might try and find these pliers as I have come to a bit of a stand still as I have ran out of 1 mm black thread and I am sure I ordered extra. I have lots of black thread but no 1mm.
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The Caldercraft Dead eyes sound to be much better thought out and hopefully my next model the Endeavour also by Caldercraft will have the same upper links as the one shown in the photo. Makes much more sense when you think about it. Once again I thank you for your input. Best regards dave
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Thanks Kevin ?Best regards Dave
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After posting a question on Masting and rigging to get a wider view of peoples ideas. I have now decided to redo the fore mast lower shrouds in the hope of better securing the lower dead eyes into the Channels. Next time I will definately consider soldering the upper link around the deadeye and perhaps consider having the gap lower down instead of actually around the dead eye and see if this makes a difference. What is strange is this is not happening on all of the dead eyes and requires further investigation. Oh well I need the practice in re doing all that nice serving again. Ha ha. I would like to mention a special thanks to all the people who answered my question regarding this issue. Best regards Dave
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Kevin thanks again for your input. I have just been Just taking another look at the Caldercraft upper chain link. Are the two prongs that form the gap for soldering purposes or do they actually help to secure the chain plate to the channel in someway? I am concidering the Caldercraft Endeavour for my next model. If I ever finish this one. Only joking Haha. So it would be nice for future reference. Best regards Dvae
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Roger,thank you for your input and what looks to be an excellent idea.Did you use an epoxy resin glue or could you get away with just using CA and did you have any difficulty finding the right kind of pliers or just about any would do.? Best regards Dave
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No problems. I will keep you posted . Good luck with your Bounty
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Just Had a double check regarding the deadeyes and noticed not all of them are giving me problems so I think further investigation may resolve this. I have desided to stip off the shrouds I have done and start again. I have some copper and solder which seem to work fine ( I made a jig using this and a standard electric soldering Iron so with a bit of practice I should be fine) I think I will remove the links which are giving me problems and see if there is any difference between them and another new one. Perhaps I am not fitting the dead eys properly. I did get better at it as I went along and perhaps these ones were the first of the ones I fitted. Thanks for the kind offer for the Caldercraft links but I could not accept due to being over the pond as it were. Once again I thank everyone for there kind help and hopefully I can continue now that I have a better understanding of what might be happening. Best regards Dave
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I agree that using the Caldercraft fittings is probably a better way to go. Thanks for the kind words regarding my Bounty. Best regards Dave
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Thank you once again Allan for your guidence. I now think the problem lies with the Amati link. Here is a photo of the link in question. I have opened it up a bit so you can see where the gap is. This is what happens when I push it over the deadeye. I never seem to get it to close again properly. Even so I don,t understand why I am the only person to have this problem with the amati links. I have a number of spares and so perhaps I could experiment with a bit of solder. I have been reluctant to try this with the dead eye in situ but perhaps I could try this before fitting onto the deadeye. So to cut a long story short .I should have soldered the gap to stop it opening up again.Best regards Dave
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I have thought about both of these and the CA glue might work but there is a gap in between the ends so doubt soldering would work. CA might work but not without getting some on the deadeye itself. I think I will perservere with these for now but as my next model is probably going to be the Endeavour by Caldercraft I will see how I get on with the one you have shown in the photo. I might end up makeing my own so there is no gap and soldering them once they have been fitted over the dead eye. Hope this makes sense. Best regards Dave
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I am currently attaching the shrouds to the upper deadeyes and although I am finding this difficult I am slowly getting there . The problems I seem to be having is the lower deadeyes becoming loose and dislodged from the brass wire circling the deadeye which secures it to the chain plate . I have no real tension on the lanyards so why is this happening? It sometimes occurrs on the deadeye next to the one I am working on. I have also noticed that the when the slightest bit of tension is put on the shrouds and the brass surrounding the lower deadeye begins to come apart. allowing the lower deadeye to pop out. I am just wondering if the brass is too soft, or am I not being gentle enough. Just a thought and wondering if I would be better of making my own out of steel wire and have a twist in the wire so it cannot come off the deadeye easily. Am I the only person to have this problem then I am clearly doing something wrong? Best regards Dave
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Update . After adding the the lower Stays I then found it difficult to attach the fore mast shrouds at the top of the mast and therefore decided to remove the lanyards from the Stays, which enabled me to lift the stays out of the way rather than try and get the shrouds to fit under the stays. It was also much easier to fit the Burton pendants before fitting the shrouds. Also I don,t know how I would have managed with out Chucks serving machine when it came to the first of the shrouds, I also tried a few ways regards the fitting of the upper dead eyes and found just having a board without pegs shown in one of the photos not sufficient as really could have done with an extra per of hands. Eventually I have managed to have a combination of pegs and a board seemed to work best for me, although I am still having some difficulty with the throat seizing where the shrouds cross over. I have managed to fit the first of the stbd shrouds but have not secured the lanyards.
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Thats great and well done for sticking with it. So writing to them looks to be the only way forward in the short term. I have only just started the hobby and have bought many items including a serving machine ( which is brilliant by the way) So up to now I have bought more than twice what it anitially cost for my model ship. So I am in two minds whether to go for this as I have a limted budget and could really do with a pedalstal drill too. Hopefullly I will be needing a new model ship soon and that slipway will definately be handy. Best regards Dave
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Nice one . I have already fitted the blocks to the yards. As far as the instructions, only one block required. However as I am not carrying any sails so should I be ok or will I need to change them as I believe the book by Petersson and yourself to be correct. Thanks again for your help. Best regards Dave
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I am not sure about Aluminium. Maybe can with silver solder but don,t believe the fumes are too healthy but that could be when welding. Maybe better to use brass if you want to solder. Personally I would go with what Tim has suggested as he has made a very neat job and would think it would be strong enough. Perhaps some expert can step in here if they have experience with soldering aluminium. Sorry if this is not much help
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Thank you Gregory for your quick reply. This looks to be the same as the box art. By the way I am still waiting for my book 'The History of ship Models' which I ordered from ebay. Unfortunately I just found out its coming from India so will still have to wait another few weeks yet! Just noticed on the picture you have sent me, those British 18th centuary lifts ,the blocks on the end of the yards look to be double blocks and this is confirmed by the book I have ' Rigging period ship models' That looks to be a bit tricky how is that done? can you use one of those blocks that look like a violin or similar. Was this also to reduce the amount of weight required to change the angle of the yards? Best regards Dave
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Bounty Amati I understand that the height of the yards are different when sails are furled or unfurled. However what is the position when there are no sails. The drawing only shows the position when sails are raised. The box art ( without sails )shows that the lower main yards are raised, the top yards and top gallant yards are lowered on both fore and main masts. The mizzen mast is the same but only has two yards lower yard which is raised and the top yard is lowered.
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Once again Tim thank you for giving me that Tip and what a great idea it is using the aluminium tubing. I have had a look at a Cornwall Ship models shop here in the uk and they stock a number of different sizes of aluminium tubing and does not look too expensive so will definately get some of this for my next model I build. I eventually got the hang of using the copper strip however it is far from perfect and no where near as good as your yards. However I think I will move onto the rigging again and follow the previous sequence you gave me earler. Best regards Dave
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Yeah I also thought a serving machine was the way to go but I had a few problems sourcing the parts to make one . So I decided to buy the Serv O matic made by Chuck . Received the parts and managed to build it within a day. In the mean time I have been putting together the Yards which I have now completed. Here are a few photos of the yards. I am now planning on going back to the rigging, starting with the stays. AS yet I still need to re do a number of stays, hoping I will do a better jib with the serving machine.Thanks again for your input. Best regards Dave
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