DaveBaxt
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I agree that using the Caldercraft fittings is probably a better way to go. Thanks for the kind words regarding my Bounty. Best regards Dave
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Thank you once again Allan for your guidence. I now think the problem lies with the Amati link. Here is a photo of the link in question. I have opened it up a bit so you can see where the gap is. This is what happens when I push it over the deadeye. I never seem to get it to close again properly. Even so I don,t understand why I am the only person to have this problem with the amati links. I have a number of spares and so perhaps I could experiment with a bit of solder. I have been reluctant to try this with the dead eye in situ but perhaps I could try this before fitting onto the deadeye. So to cut a long story short .I should have soldered the gap to stop it opening up again.Best regards Dave
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I have thought about both of these and the CA glue might work but there is a gap in between the ends so doubt soldering would work. CA might work but not without getting some on the deadeye itself. I think I will perservere with these for now but as my next model is probably going to be the Endeavour by Caldercraft I will see how I get on with the one you have shown in the photo. I might end up makeing my own so there is no gap and soldering them once they have been fitted over the dead eye. Hope this makes sense. Best regards Dave
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I am currently attaching the shrouds to the upper deadeyes and although I am finding this difficult I am slowly getting there . The problems I seem to be having is the lower deadeyes becoming loose and dislodged from the brass wire circling the deadeye which secures it to the chain plate . I have no real tension on the lanyards so why is this happening? It sometimes occurrs on the deadeye next to the one I am working on. I have also noticed that the when the slightest bit of tension is put on the shrouds and the brass surrounding the lower deadeye begins to come apart. allowing the lower deadeye to pop out. I am just wondering if the brass is too soft, or am I not being gentle enough. Just a thought and wondering if I would be better of making my own out of steel wire and have a twist in the wire so it cannot come off the deadeye easily. Am I the only person to have this problem then I am clearly doing something wrong? Best regards Dave
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Update . After adding the the lower Stays I then found it difficult to attach the fore mast shrouds at the top of the mast and therefore decided to remove the lanyards from the Stays, which enabled me to lift the stays out of the way rather than try and get the shrouds to fit under the stays. It was also much easier to fit the Burton pendants before fitting the shrouds. Also I don,t know how I would have managed with out Chucks serving machine when it came to the first of the shrouds, I also tried a few ways regards the fitting of the upper dead eyes and found just having a board without pegs shown in one of the photos not sufficient as really could have done with an extra per of hands. Eventually I have managed to have a combination of pegs and a board seemed to work best for me, although I am still having some difficulty with the throat seizing where the shrouds cross over. I have managed to fit the first of the stbd shrouds but have not secured the lanyards.
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Thats great and well done for sticking with it. So writing to them looks to be the only way forward in the short term. I have only just started the hobby and have bought many items including a serving machine ( which is brilliant by the way) So up to now I have bought more than twice what it anitially cost for my model ship. So I am in two minds whether to go for this as I have a limted budget and could really do with a pedalstal drill too. Hopefullly I will be needing a new model ship soon and that slipway will definately be handy. Best regards Dave
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Nice one . I have already fitted the blocks to the yards. As far as the instructions, only one block required. However as I am not carrying any sails so should I be ok or will I need to change them as I believe the book by Petersson and yourself to be correct. Thanks again for your help. Best regards Dave
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I am not sure about Aluminium. Maybe can with silver solder but don,t believe the fumes are too healthy but that could be when welding. Maybe better to use brass if you want to solder. Personally I would go with what Tim has suggested as he has made a very neat job and would think it would be strong enough. Perhaps some expert can step in here if they have experience with soldering aluminium. Sorry if this is not much help
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Thank you Gregory for your quick reply. This looks to be the same as the box art. By the way I am still waiting for my book 'The History of ship Models' which I ordered from ebay. Unfortunately I just found out its coming from India so will still have to wait another few weeks yet! Just noticed on the picture you have sent me, those British 18th centuary lifts ,the blocks on the end of the yards look to be double blocks and this is confirmed by the book I have ' Rigging period ship models' That looks to be a bit tricky how is that done? can you use one of those blocks that look like a violin or similar. Was this also to reduce the amount of weight required to change the angle of the yards? Best regards Dave
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Bounty Amati I understand that the height of the yards are different when sails are furled or unfurled. However what is the position when there are no sails. The drawing only shows the position when sails are raised. The box art ( without sails )shows that the lower main yards are raised, the top yards and top gallant yards are lowered on both fore and main masts. The mizzen mast is the same but only has two yards lower yard which is raised and the top yard is lowered.
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Once again Tim thank you for giving me that Tip and what a great idea it is using the aluminium tubing. I have had a look at a Cornwall Ship models shop here in the uk and they stock a number of different sizes of aluminium tubing and does not look too expensive so will definately get some of this for my next model I build. I eventually got the hang of using the copper strip however it is far from perfect and no where near as good as your yards. However I think I will move onto the rigging again and follow the previous sequence you gave me earler. Best regards Dave
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Yeah I also thought a serving machine was the way to go but I had a few problems sourcing the parts to make one . So I decided to buy the Serv O matic made by Chuck . Received the parts and managed to build it within a day. In the mean time I have been putting together the Yards which I have now completed. Here are a few photos of the yards. I am now planning on going back to the rigging, starting with the stays. AS yet I still need to re do a number of stays, hoping I will do a better jib with the serving machine.Thanks again for your input. Best regards Dave
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I would have thought the aluminium would be much easier to work with than brass but could be wrong. I have also noticed with my kit that a lot of the dowels are under sized quit a bit. Mainly on the smaller stuff, for example when the drawing says 4 mm the dowel is 3.5mm , Next time I will check the kit at the start and perhaps buy the next size up for that particular spar.
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Wow, you are even nearer to Cook than my self. I live in the <North East and have visited those areas you have just mentioned many times. Regards the Endeavour and Bounty being similar .I think you are correct, however I am using the Bounty as a learning curve and have made lots of mistakes, some I have managed to do again, others I have had to leave. Hopefully I will have better luck with the Endeavour. Regarding the Bounty. Please follow Tim Moores Blog , Although a different manufacturer again , it is a fantastic model and he is very helpfull as is very many people on this forum.
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Cheers Tim that is definately something that I would look at in future builds. I don,t fancy making all those yards ggain. I wish now I had looked at your blog before continueing further. Just for the record Tim . How did you join the wire and tubing together and also what are you using to black the aluminium? Thanks once again for your input. Best regards Dave
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I have been considering the Endeavour for some time as I have some interest in Captain Cook who lived not too far from me, However I also like the look of the Snake. Good luck with your Bounty I am sure with your experience she will look great. I think the main problem I had with building the hull with the Amati kit was the supply of 6mm x 1.5 mm Walnut for the first layer of planking which needed a lot of soaking and heating to get the planks to go around the bow and all had to be tapered too. I understand the Endeavors first layer of planking is lime,which I think is easier to bend into shape but I have not used it.
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Great looking job. I especially like the look of the copper bottom and wonder if they came with the kit? I am thinking of trying caldercraft for my next model. Are you happy with the instructions and materials. Best regards Dave
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Welcome aboard and thank you for your kind words. I hope you have better instructions with your Caldercraft kit.than with my Amati one.I have heard that Caldrcraft are one of the better manufacturers out there although the Amati kit seemed to be pretty good stuff . Keep us posted and let us know how you get on. I have now finished putting together my seiizing machine and I am now ready to continue with the rigging once I have completed the yards. Hopefully not too long now, although I found it difficult to attach the thin dowels which sit on top of the yards and make the yards wider. The copper strips were difficult to bend to the correct shape and make a neat job. Perhaps next time I should try and think about some kind of jig.
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Yes good point I decided after taking the advice on this board to keep a bottle of acetone on hand in an emergency. I have tried different set times and as you say, it takes a bit of practice. Once again thank you for your input
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Trod I am no expert but it seems to me that it is an age old argument and you will get lots of different answers. I try to use it as little as possible but found it great for metal to wood. In some situations where timing is important I am now using an accelerator so once you get your piece held into position then Zap it with a bit of CA accelerator and your done. I try to use as little as possible and use those thin nozzles ( mainly to stop the end of the CA container blocking up) you can buy a 100 for a few pounds sterling on Amazon and just throw the end away after about a week. I do not use CA on the hull but many do. I have tried a few different ways but I think you just have to see whats best for you. This is only my second ship and find practice make perfect . I already made a better job of planking the second time around. I am currently using CA glue on my rigging knots but thinking of changing tack and trying pva glue on them instead of CA as the knots and siezings are brittle rather than just stiff with the bees wax. Hope this helps Dave
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I would like to thank every one who has replied to my questions regarding what is to me a very complex subject, hopefully with your help I now understand a bit more .I think I will once again re do some of the rigging which there is not too much as I have caught it early enough. So really glad I asked the question before proceeding. As it happens I have decided to change tack slightly and build those yards whilst I wait for my servo o matic I have just ordered from chuck. Once I have received my serving machine I will continue with the rigging. Best regards Dave
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Ok I have now managed to serv a number of Stays by hand and its killing me. I generally have issues with back pain and serving the line is jsut adding to my problems. I have careful consideration and now I see that Chuck 's Servo O matic is now back on sale and postal issues due to the covid pandemic have now been resolved I have decided to by one. Whilst waiting for delivery I have changed tack and I will now make the yards and gaff. I have also been asking lots of questions about the colour of threads for standing rigging and have decided to go against what is in the instructions and go with the light brown inbetween the blocks on the standing rigging and stick with black between the hearts. Sorry no photos at present as having problems with uploading photos( slow internet speed at my end) I am now wondering do I go with lighter gauge threads as I go higher up ( standing rigging ?)
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Wow! This is more confusing than ever.Just when I thought I was getting there. So if I try to remember it for next time .Can I say for standing rigging anything that runs through a block and tackle or deadeyes is light brown/tan in colour. Any)thing else is a dark brown in colour ( black as I have loads of it) All running rigging is light brown in colour. Crow feet .Now surely that is also adjustable and would not normally be tarred and therefore light brown. Hoping I am correct but probably not . Sorry for slipping another question in regarding standing rigging . I am assuming that as the Stays ,Back stays and Shrouds go higher up the thread becomes thinner or I should stop assuming anything? Thanks again for taking your time to explain things to me Best regards Dave
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My mistake I di mean to say Lanyards honest haha. Ha so The hearts are Lanyards and block are tackle, what about dead eyes. I assumed the ropes between them were lanyards too ! Thanks for your input Popeye much appreciated, best regards
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