BANYAN

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Hi Doris, the level of finish and quality on this model is superb.  I hope you are entering this in a competition as if it does not win a prize I don't know what would - absolutely beautiful work!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,

Wow thanks guys! It's really fun to build this little stove, much more than I had imagined. Now I understand why people build small buildings from individual brick, one ought to try once. 
Tony, I think a simple stew would be appropriate.
Gee Rusty you're tough to please
 
So chimney added, time to make some pots and pans....
 

 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks Michael, Pat and Alex. Well good sirs other then pot's and pan's the stove it complete, accept for the  stack. I finally added the pully's and chain, for the pit, which was just a little touche. Most of the new parts are made out of metal accept for the pulley's which are wood. Couldn't find any brass round stock big enough. Well back to the pump's. Gary

Progress continues, albeit very slowly!  Each step now seems to take a goodly bit longer as I plan out the sequence, and at the same time try to keep from blocking other things I still need to do!
 
The major accomplishment is moving the Model onto the stand - I had to cut down the stanchions about 1/8" but that was fairly straight forward (thanks to the new Dremel!)
 
View of the Fore mast (with my ships superintendent Almanza).  Have started to belay the lines from the lower lift.
 

 

 
With all of the shrouds set, I have started on those miserable rat lines.  I have not yet calculated how many are needed - I think I would disolve into a deep funk if i knew!  The shrouds are .018" diameter from Chuck - I love this stuff!  So much easier to work with than the synthetic that came with the kit.
 

 
Last, a couple of views of the full ship. 
 

 

Coming along very nicely Ron, the next layer of planking will seem like a doddle after that
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks every one and those folks for there likes. I have got the stove further along and do think  I have come close to the cast iron look, at least as close as my skill will let me. Well back to work on her gun deck guys. Here is some updated photo's guys, and Mr Jones finally got a paint job along with the stove. Some were he seem to have picked up a slop bucket. Now I wonder where he got that from. Thanks again guy's.
 
Gary

A little more progress today.  The bridge is now completed except for the periscopes and antenna mast.
 
I finished the crew hatch, it now has a hinged lid, a ladder and is painted and installed!  
Next I made the snorkel intake pipe guard and installed that one together with the intake pipe.  While I was at it I also made the exhaust pipe and painted it.
 
This was all time consuming work but very satisfying.  Tomorrow we'll tackle the crew hatches on the gun decks and the AA gun buns.  I seriously doubt that I can finish all of them tomorrow but there is always another day.
 
Okay, here are a few pics of today's work.  
 

A seagull's eye view of the bridge.  The ladder and lid of the crew hatch is clearly visible here and yes, according to the drawings, this hatch tube does stick above the deck a little.  That crazy looking pipe with a hood like thing on top is the snorkel intake pipe with the protective guard.  That was a tough one to make.
 

A port side profile shot of the bridge with the entire conning tower.  That black pipe sticking up at the end of the con is the engine exhaust when snorkeling.  This allowed the boat to run the diesels to charge the batteries and continue to cruise while submerged.  This also allows the commander to cruise at a high speed without depleting the batteries.   It also provided fresh air for the crew that circulated through the boat.  Rather cleaver if you ask me.  Obviously, navigation was done with the navigation periscope.
As mentioned yesterday, right below the flag post holder you can see a small hole in the support.  That is to hook a block and tackle for the dingy lift boom. 
 
Cheers,

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Hi Doris, the level of finish and quality on this model is superb.  I hope you are entering this in a competition as if it does not win a prize I don't know what would - absolutely beautiful work!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks gents, things will slow down now, I want to get the mast tackles done next, and time to bite the bullet and make up some blocks with metal hooks. Then the fish hook davits (which are constructed but unshipped) to run off the foremast tackle, then the 4 anchors, the stunsail booms, do up chucks lantern, then wrap it all in glad wrap and start on the yards. So, same time next year then....

Hi Patrick and Mark.
 
The reference I used was Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders by Donald Dressel.  On page 103/105 he discusses the king plank "which will run into the hatches and mast locations, as well as any other obstruction down the middle of your deck.  It should run right down the middle of your deck with its centre matching the centreline.."  He does not provide any guidance as to its width etc.
 
Harold Underhill also mentions the king plank in his Plank-on-Frame-Models volume 1, but also does not provide any guidance for size etc.
 
David Antscherl in Volume 1 of his excellent series HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, also discusses the king plank on page 270 under the heading - The centreline plank.  "I have shown this as a 12" wide untapered plank (The modern name is the king plank).  remember that it is 3" thick, standing 1" proud of the deck flat.  The pillars for the upper deck beams will tenon into it.  The plank's edges champher down to meet the flat of the deck, and it tapers in thickness by 1/4" aft of the ladderway to meet flush with the mizzen mast partners.  Note that the plank butts against the hatch head ledges and mast partners...." 
 
I know I found some additional information that informed me that the king plank was wider than the deck planking width.  I had no real rule-of-thumb but I went for 3/4 the width of two plank (e.g if planks were 6" wide, then the king plank would be 9" but I STRESS I have no evidence to support this; simply what I chose at the time.  I also could not find any information as to whether the plank should be a continuous piece between obstruction or fall into the  same 'length rule' as for deck planking (based on the period in which the ship was built).  As I had several centre line obstructions (masts, hatches, etc.) I chose to use a continuous length between each obstruction.  As Mark Taylor points out, this probably had a construction aspect related to it so the less joints the better.
 
I hope this helps a bit?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Patrick and Mark.
 
The reference I used was Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders by Donald Dressel.  On page 103/105 he discusses the king plank "which will run into the hatches and mast locations, as well as any other obstruction down the middle of your deck.  It should run right down the middle of your deck with its centre matching the centreline.."  He does not provide any guidance as to its width etc.
 
Harold Underhill also mentions the king plank in his Plank-on-Frame-Models volume 1, but also does not provide any guidance for size etc.
 
David Antscherl in Volume 1 of his excellent series HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, also discusses the king plank on page 270 under the heading - The centreline plank.  "I have shown this as a 12" wide untapered plank (The modern name is the king plank).  remember that it is 3" thick, standing 1" proud of the deck flat.  The pillars for the upper deck beams will tenon into it.  The plank's edges champher down to meet the flat of the deck, and it tapers in thickness by 1/4" aft of the ladderway to meet flush with the mizzen mast partners.  Note that the plank butts against the hatch head ledges and mast partners...." 
 
I know I found some additional information that informed me that the king plank was wider than the deck planking width.  I had no real rule-of-thumb but I went for 3/4 the width of two plank (e.g if planks were 6" wide, then the king plank would be 9" but I STRESS I have no evidence to support this; simply what I chose at the time.  I also could not find any information as to whether the plank should be a continuous piece between obstruction or fall into the  same 'length rule' as for deck planking (based on the period in which the ship was built).  As I had several centre line obstructions (masts, hatches, etc.) I chose to use a continuous length between each obstruction.  As Mark Taylor points out, this probably had a construction aspect related to it so the less joints the better.
 
I hope this helps a bit?
 
cheers
 
Pat

I had to dedicate some time to protect a few of our cold sensitive plants today.  We are expecting temps down to about 28 or 29 degrees F tonight.  Fortunately it's only going to last till morning, then the temps are going back up.  Wonder how cold it'll be in the garage aka the shipyard 
 
I spend most of the day on metal work.  I made two navigation or position light fixtures.  These will be soldered to the antenna brace (see pic # 4)  I'll have to remake them because they are a tad too small.  No problem, it only takes me 20 minutes for each one, not counting the soldering though.
 
The major job for today was making the shield for the front of the cockpit / bridge.  I decided to make it from brass sheet and the frame from a piece of 90 degree brass angle.   It worked out okay and is now cemented on.
 
I also made the antenna brace and soldered to the cross bar to the upright posts.  I can't cement them to the model yet because I need to drill several holes in it for the antenna wire, the ship's bell and solder the nav/position light fixtures to it.
 
Well, I guess that's all for today.  Some pics below.
 

This shows the forward cockpit cover shield loosely laid on for fit.  Looks good and is ready for the final trim and then cementing it on.  I am using 5 minute epoxy for this so I can hold it down for a proper fit.
 

This is another shot from the rear.
 

A blurred picture of the navigation or position light fixtures.  The second issue parts will be soldered to the sides of the antenna brace posts.
 

This then is the antenna brace made from brass tubing.  The cross beam I made oval by squeezing it in the vice.  It's soldered together and temporarily installed.  I need to drill a few holes in the top bar for antenna wire and ship's bell.
Then we'll epoxy it in place and cover the tubes inside the cockpit with file folder paper to simulate sheet metal and paint.  
I have already made the engine power setting telegraph and repeater, which are installed behind the antenna brace.
You can also see the cockpit shield cemented on. 
 
Cheers,

1st sanding done need to fill just behind the front balsa filler,it looks a bit to flat there i need to round it off better.Also removed a stern piece that was blocking the fitment of the rudder up through the deck,lucky i found it now.

OK, pointy end of the ship done finally. I've pretty much replicated the AOTS for all the stays and running rigging.

The chocks were fitted next.  The edges were highlighted with pencil to make the seams stand out.
 

 

 
The assemblies were then glued in place.  The aft partner was glued using the log pumps to help alignment.  
 

 
After the glue was dry, I cut the mortises for the ledges between the partners carlings and the middle carlings.  Because of the locations of the pumps and the main topsail sheet bitts, only two ledges would fit.  The multiple bolts were added and a coat of finish was applied to seal the bolts in place.  I typically dry-fit the bolts, only using glue if the hole is too large.  The last photo shows how it will look with all six pumps in position.  
 

 

 
 
 
 

Hi All, I trust that everyone had a wonderful and Merry Christmas and that 2014 will be a fabulous year for us All. Well I tender my grovelling apologies to you for taking so long to get back to the forum after the last post above. The computer problems were eventually resolved by replacing the motherboard which meant that it was almost re-built with new bits and pieces to get it up and running. Work had top priority and once back on line it was back to work, Christmas and a crook back (not from any particular activity), it just decided to interfer with other plans. It's improving but it eventually worked out in my favour. Sitting is a bit of a problem at the moment but standing isn't, so I was able to do a bit of work on the model. I've attached some photos for you to have a look at. I ummed and arred on the kit configuration of the model and had a change of mind along the way and something that Adrieke said prompted me to reconsider, so I'm trying to build it in line with the replica vessel rather than a straight kit model. Thank you for your thoughts on this Adrieke........
Anyway, I've still got a bit of painting to be done but thought I'd post these photos so please let me know what you think and have a great day.
 
Best regards to you All,
Rowan D.

Hello dear friends
your words mean a lot for me, thank you all for the posts and support,  that´s a great honour for me.
 
Well, finally I have decided to cover the cabins, but I suppose this will be the most practical. Everything inside is clearly visible through the windows.
 
The ceilings are made of pale squares (to reflect the light) , some of them are decorted with gilded ornaments.
 
Here are the newest pics, so you can enjoy them.
 
Best regards,
Doris
 

Actual pics:

Hello dear friends,

I am very impressed reading your posts, thank you a lot for your attention to my build and kind words. I am sure, there are a lot of stunning shipbuilders at MSW - much better than me, I also draw inspiration from their work and am grateful that can be here with you. Thank you very much for this oportunity.
 
The idea  - to make clear area in the roof  - is very good and I am thinking about it.
 
I have other pics for you, this time my husband took photos, so here are some of them. Now I am preparing the support structure for the roof in rear cabin.
Please enjoy them:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Very nice work; a great enhancement for a model and appears the way to go in the future for scratch and 'bashed' kits
 
cheers
 
Pat.