BANYAN

Man-o-man you achieve some very nice detail into your metalwork.  I am still trying to figure how you did those flanges on the elbow (a bit of file work I am assuming?)
 
Works of art Keith!
 
cheers
 
Pat

She's the only clipper to have had four masts. Was she one of the first four masted vessels? By the time of the iron ships of the next generation, there were 4 and even a 5 masted ship but not in this generation. I wonder when that started. Nice work Rob. She's looking great. 

Can you cast a few master figures in the rough and then complete them individually? Impressive work on the tholes using hand-held equipment only.

In this new self-isolating world, we ship model-makers are the lucky ones. We at least have somethign productive to do. Although a nice pint of draught....
 
Fabulous detail work as ever, Keith.

Nothing much to do in the UK anymore - all entertainment closed down and restaurants and pubs shut. The only relief is shipbuilding, which isn't a bad thing.
 
I continued with the anchor winch.
 
The brackets for the hand wheels were finished by soldering on a mounting spigot.


The anchor chain comes off the Gypsy and then passes through a 90 degree elbow before disappearing below deck. The elbows had been on my mind some time as to the best way to make them.
 
In the end I decided to make them out of .125" brass rod that was drilled to form a bore. I purposely left the wall section thick to prevent collapse of the tube.  From the sketch you can see the bend is tight given the rod diameter. I made a bending jig to assist with the forming of the bend and annealed the rod a couple of times during bending.

It looked better after polishing.

I then cut the elbow to height before turning a flange and spigot on another piece of .125" rod snd then joining the two parts with soft solder.


The open end of the elbow has a flange. The elbow was turned to form a register for the flange. The flange was also turned.

The flange was glued in place.

The elbow was then mounted on to the winch base plate.


I then mounted the hand wheel brackets and sorted out the hand wheel shaft. The .040" drill is providing temporory alignment. The chain was also installed.

You must feed those 'galley slaves' / Workers well - nice production run (and fast)
 
At this rate you will be finished the ship before you know it; the crew may be another matter?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Steven, the offer is still good to use the scroll saw for cutting/ rough shaping the carving blocks if you are game to travel?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Thanks for sharing Peta, a modified (and better) version of a method I have been using.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for sharing Peta, a modified (and better) version of a method I have been using.
 
cheers
 
Pat

be good if you could.......lov'in that outer hull planking     wish you folks well as we go through all this...........it's crazy over here too!

Worked a bit tonight on the final backstays and the mizzen sheets.
 
Rob

Hey, folks! Here's a great tip for making realistic rope coils. This post was originally made by member Peta_V in his excellent build log for Master Korabel's AVOS kit, which you can read here. Enjoy!
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Here is a short guide, how I do coils. 
I have a jig from the scrap wood with 3 removable pins (2,3,5) and 3 securing points (1,4,6).

1. Secure the line to point 1 and make several loops around pins 2 and 3. I do 4-6 loops so the coils does not look similar. (I start with removed pin 5). Once finished with loops secure the other end to point 4.

2. Unsecure line from point 1 and pull out the very first loop through the middle of the coil. 
3. Now you have to twist this to form the eye and secure it with pin 5.

4. Remove pin 2 and fully insert pin 5. Now you can adjust the coil as you want a once happy secure the end to point 6.

5. Now I secure the coil with 3 drops of CA glue. One where the eye meets coil, second ať the bottom of the coil and third to secure the loose end to the coil. Remove the coil from the jig by removing pin 5 and trim the excess thread. 

6. Place the coil on the deck

 
Perhaps someone finds it usefull. 
Stay healthy! 
Peta_V 

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

You must feed those 'galley slaves' / Workers well - nice production run (and fast)
 
At this rate you will be finished the ship before you know it; the crew may be another matter?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Not much more to do now Rob; looking good!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice library Rob; a good cosy place to settle back for a good read or to take a pleasurable look at the models.  Your new case fits into the aesthetics and ambiance of the room very nicely.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Sounds like a nice way to display this beauty Rob, look forward to seeing the completed case.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice cosy library you have there Rob, pity you can't get it higher but has the advantage of better shoing the rigging and looking down on to the upper deck.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Just back after a PC disaster Rob (got hacked0 - sorry to hear you had to change the planned display position for your model but you seemed to have resolved a good solution.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice little 'home' for your creation you are assembling there Rob; look forward to seeing it complete.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

You must feed those 'galley slaves' / Workers well - nice production run (and fast)
 
At this rate you will be finished the ship before you know it; the crew may be another matter?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Hi Keith, it is possible that the rounds were passed up to the upper deck through a hatch/trunk/hoist from the shell room.  It would make sense then that only a single greasing station would be required as the crew would grab the round from the hoist, grease it and pass it to the required gun station.  Could the device be a combined hoist/greasing station?  Not trying to complicate the matter, just a suggestion.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Keith, it is possible that the rounds were passed up to the upper deck through a hatch/trunk/hoist from the shell room.  It would make sense then that only a single greasing station would be required as the crew would grab the round from the hoist, grease it and pass it to the required gun station.  Could the device be a combined hoist/greasing station?  Not trying to complicate the matter, just a suggestion.
 
cheers
 
Pat

As good a 'solution' as any could determine, and it makes some sense Keith.
 
cheers
 
Pat