Gabek

[Holding my nose]

In between moving my younger son and hosting THREE sets of out-of-town visitors I still managed to plug along with the model over the last few weeks.
 
My original plan was to actually spile the second layer of planks so after attaching the keel and stem post I carefully marked off the hull as per Chuck Passaro's tutorial.  I have several sheets of walnut veneer that would do the job…I thought.  

Marking and transferring the shapes to the veneer went easily enough and the first planks on either side went well, but I ended up having a lot of trouble cutting veneer consistently and smoothly for the subsequent planks.  I tried cutting with both a rotary veneer cutter and an xacto knife but I just could not produce planks that fit tightly.  I found sanding and shaping veneer was an exercise in frustration, so I peeled off those first planks and [holding my nose] began throwing on the walnut strips from the kit.

My younger son came to see how I was doing on the model and I told him, “I feel like I'm building a house but I'm putting the doors in wrong…and know it!”
 
While waiting for glue to dry I planked the forecastle deck…and managed to skew the planks slightly off centre. 😡 ( I won’t say anything if you don’t! 🤣)

Well, that's all I gave 'er this time.  
 
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

 
 

Thanks, Peter, I have read your log!  I was very close to copying almost everything you did - just wonderful modifications through and through.  However, I'm going to hold my nose and just plow through this model quickly. It won’t be pretty…[sigh]
 
Clear skies and sharp tools! 
- Gabe

I will try to build something looking like the Santa Maria using new edition of Artesania Latina kit. I have to say it is a very high quality kit. Even plywood looks like they polished it.

Dryfitting looks promising


The quality is so good, they even give me a pre bend false deck😂

 
But with the sails it is screw up


what I suppose to do with those sails margins??🤔
But on the bright side, my plan is to give her some lights. It will be my first ever attempt to use LEDs. Already drilled holes in the bulkheads for the wires.

 

[Holding my nose]

In between moving my younger son and hosting THREE sets of out-of-town visitors I still managed to plug along with the model over the last few weeks.
 
My original plan was to actually spile the second layer of planks so after attaching the keel and stem post I carefully marked off the hull as per Chuck Passaro's tutorial.  I have several sheets of walnut veneer that would do the job…I thought.  

Marking and transferring the shapes to the veneer went easily enough and the first planks on either side went well, but I ended up having a lot of trouble cutting veneer consistently and smoothly for the subsequent planks.  I tried cutting with both a rotary veneer cutter and an xacto knife but I just could not produce planks that fit tightly.  I found sanding and shaping veneer was an exercise in frustration, so I peeled off those first planks and [holding my nose] began throwing on the walnut strips from the kit.

My younger son came to see how I was doing on the model and I told him, “I feel like I'm building a house but I'm putting the doors in wrong…and know it!”
 
While waiting for glue to dry I planked the forecastle deck…and managed to skew the planks slightly off centre. 😡 ( I won’t say anything if you don’t! 🤣)

Well, that's all I gave 'er this time.  
 
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

 
 

Thanks, Peter, I have read your log!  I was very close to copying almost everything you did - just wonderful modifications through and through.  However, I'm going to hold my nose and just plow through this model quickly. It won’t be pretty…[sigh]
 
Clear skies and sharp tools! 
- Gabe

Yes Gabe definitely look at @Katsumoto log it's fantastic.  I only found his log  when I was almost finished  my Santa Maria. His work and how he explains it was really helpful.  He really made me up my game on knot tying. It shows on my Pinta. It's way better but I still got lots to learn.   He is a master that's for sure. And he might be able to help you Pick up the pace lol   Give'er    

I've build this AL kit as well and had lot's of fun with her. Excellent for bashing, and I did plenty of that....so I'll go for the beer and crackers. ☺️
If you like to have al look, my buildlog is on this forum, just look it up.

Good luck and have fun.
 
 

The baby is coming, LOL. You must have an update, the snow melting lol.  

https://www.amazon.com/Ships-Christopher-Columbus-Santa-Anatomy/dp/1557507554
 
24 BUCKS. 
Get the book!! 

Welcome aboard, Scott!
You are definitely in the right place.  
I, too, am playing with 3D printing - A great new vista for modellers.
Looking forward to following your build logs.
 
From the heart of Canada - Winnipeg 🇨🇦.
Clear skies,
Gabe

 

Give 'er! 
 
This great and useful Canadian phrase is always used as an excited exclamation to "go for it", "floor it", "do it" and that’s exactly what I'm going to do…at last!  Inspired by fellow Manitoban @knocklouder and fully embarrassed at not only missing my son's graduation but also his wedding I figured I've GOT to finish this gift before our first grandchild is born…which should be this July!    

So, here it is…I'm going to just give 'er!
 
Feb 7, 2023.  7 years late! Dusted off the model and got organized.  Planked the separate poop deck and then glued it in place.  Prepared a message for inside the cabin.
. 
Feb. 8: closed up the cabin.

 
Feb 9-11: Began the first layer of planking.  I am not a fan of this method because it is so historically inaccurate, but I'm not arguing or changing.  I realize that this is just to establish the shape of the hull.

Feb 12: completed first plank layer:

Feb 13:  sanding the hull. 

Feb 14-15: applied wood filler, sanded and filled in low spots.

Feb 16:  drew in station lines and closed in the transom.  Used a storage bottle to help clamp the planks of this curved feature. 


Here’s to just givin' 'er!  A very productive week. 
- Gabe

 
 

Thank you very much for this reference and information, Modeller_Masa!
I'm so sorry to say this, but if I get this book I'll end up buying 4 more on the Santa Maria and taking at least another 7 years to finish this model!  🤣.  I just have to get this model finished.  THEN I will totally indulge my obsession with researching ships!  
Kind regards,
Gabe
 

Thanks, Mark!  
Good thing the wood is REALLY patient with me!
Kind regards,
Gabe

Thanks, Bob! 
I'm thinking this will be finished, everything willing, just as the snow melts…perfect time for a visit! 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe

Give 'er! 
 
This great and useful Canadian phrase is always used as an excited exclamation to "go for it", "floor it", "do it" and that’s exactly what I'm going to do…at last!  Inspired by fellow Manitoban @knocklouder and fully embarrassed at not only missing my son's graduation but also his wedding I figured I've GOT to finish this gift before our first grandchild is born…which should be this July!    

So, here it is…I'm going to just give 'er!
 
Feb 7, 2023.  7 years late! Dusted off the model and got organized.  Planked the separate poop deck and then glued it in place.  Prepared a message for inside the cabin.
. 
Feb. 8: closed up the cabin.

 
Feb 9-11: Began the first layer of planking.  I am not a fan of this method because it is so historically inaccurate, but I'm not arguing or changing.  I realize that this is just to establish the shape of the hull.

Feb 12: completed first plank layer:

Feb 13:  sanding the hull. 

Feb 14-15: applied wood filler, sanded and filled in low spots.

Feb 16:  drew in station lines and closed in the transom.  Used a storage bottle to help clamp the planks of this curved feature. 


Here’s to just givin' 'er!  A very productive week. 
- Gabe

 
 

Thanks, Mark!  
Good thing the wood is REALLY patient with me!
Kind regards,
Gabe

For those of you (like me) who use the free 2017 version of SketchUp (the last one that let you do all the work on your computer, not online through them), they have disabled the Extension Warehouse feature, due to "Security Concerns".  This even though 90% of the offered extensions still worked with that version.
 
I'll have to back up my operating system onto another drive in case mine dies, My files are far to large to do them over the net, even if I wanted to allow SketchUp, or someone hacking them, access to them.
 
 

I have been using the wash and cure for about a year now and wouldn’t go back to the previous method.   It is so clean and easy that I would recommend it to anyone starting out. The printers themselves have two lcd screens that are consumable. The main printing screen, depending on how often you use it, will need replacing at some point. Mine usually last around 1 to 2 years. Setting up the print vat with the PET plastic bottom can be a little tricky the first couple of times. Once you get it right though it is a breeze. I use a program called Chitubox to set my supports and positioning of the model. It’s free and then you send the model to the software that comes with the printer to slice it and you are right to go. If you are considering designing your own models I would suggest fusion 360. It also free for hobbyists and is a very good CAD/CAM program. It can be a little daunting at first but there are some excellent tutorials on the net for it.

Very nice work on the grating, Tim!  I was planning to do the same for my 1:96 Triton, but with a 5.5W Genmitsu Jinsoku.  I think you're right about the burn marks adding depth to model, so to speak.  
Thanks for sharing this with us.
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe

I took my first stab a while back at making a single piece laser cut hatch grating.  This is a style used on Vanguard's grating set.  Here's a picture of one I cut out using some Maple, about 1.6mm thick.
 

 
It's not as clean looking as a machined or cut wooden grate, and there is a bit of risk that excessive visible grain in the wood will not look right.   But it's guaranteed to be at right angles, and it makes framing a "perfect" hatch a bit simpler.
 
To some extent the char is a drawback, but I like the "dirty" look of the grate, as this is more the style I like.  Also, a benefit of the laser char in the square holes is that it darkens the grating, creating more of that "and below is a dark area" illusion.  I actually applied flat varnish down in the cut holes to help fix the char so it wouldn't smudge.
 
To create them, you end up making two passes on the wood with the laser cutter:  a cut pass to make the holes and cut around the outside, and an etch (partial cut) to create a visual separation with the sections.  I've annotated the picture below with some red lines showing where the etch lines are.  The etch lines create the illusion of the vertical pieces being separate.
 

 
To make the cuts and etches, I used Inkscape (a free vector editing program) to create two patterns.   First the cut lines...

To create the above layout, I started by making a 1.6mm square, then began duplicating it at an even spacing until I had an area big enough for my grating.  Then I put a bounding box around it for a final separation cut. 
 
Then the etch lines, which I just created using the above pattern to let me know where they should be

I actually created these on top of each other in editor layers so that they would line up.  Here is a picture of them together in the editor.

Then I exported the cut and etch layers into separate SVG files (one for cut, one for etch), which I then passed to the Glowforge laser cutter to create the cut and etch tasks.
 
Here are a few things I've though of doing beyond this first attempt...
 
Just create an entire sheet of grating without any cut bounds.  Then I could just cut out any shape I wanted to any size (in grate grid square steps). If I want my grating to be a very specific size (width and height), it would be easy to just rescale the entire cut to match exactly the size I want.  Using individual grating strips, I can't resize the grate, as they are forced to be dimensional increments of the thickness of your wood. If putting a bounding cut around the outside of a sized grate, leave a few small gaps so that the cut doesn't go completely around the whole grate.  The main reason I'd do this is because when the outside cut completes, it will sometimes drop the piece of wood a small amount if it's not sitting flat on the cutting bed.  That means subsequent cuts and etches may not quite line up right.  Leaving the small gaps means the grate section won't fall down.

Thank you very much for this reference and information, Modeller_Masa!
I'm so sorry to say this, but if I get this book I'll end up buying 4 more on the Santa Maria and taking at least another 7 years to finish this model!  🤣.  I just have to get this model finished.  THEN I will totally indulge my obsession with researching ships!  
Kind regards,
Gabe
 

Hello modellers,
I was frustrated in my search for 3D files of casks suitable for my Triton build so I finally just sat down and created some in Fusion 360. 
 

Attached you will find:
two cask designs - one with 6 metal hoops and one with 8 metal hoops.  Each are hollow and there is a separate file for the head (lid), which you can glue on to close up the cask.  The current files are 1:48 versions of "leagers" - the largest casks used for water. These are easy to scale and resize in your slicing or CAD software.  
I found this reference on the Society for Nautical Research website on the size of these casks which was used in designing the models: https://bit.ly/3XKCIzO :
THE OED has a quotation “1800  Naval Chron. 3 66  The largest casks are called leagers, and are of the following dimensions: Length..4 ft. 6 in., Diameter of Bouge..3 ft., Diameter of Chine..2 ft. 5 in” ...  
The 8-hoop design is based on photos of the casks in the HMS Victory and HMS Trincomalee.  

CREDIT:  https://andyandjudi.com/2017/07/10/hms-victory-portsmouth-historic-naval-dockyard/37portsmouth-hms-victory-lower-hold-keel-ballast-and-stores/
 

CREDIT:  Davies, W., & Mudie, M. (2015). HMS Trincomalee: Frigate 1817. Seaforth Historic Ships.
 
These printed up beautifully on my Elegoo Mars with Anycubic ABS+ resin at both 0.03mm and 0.05mm slices. 
Here they are printed at 1:48 and 1:96 with Number One showing off the scale. My first try at painting one is shown.  I will likely change the colours slightly. 

I have already printed up smaller versions of these files for the variety of other casks that were used on board a Royal Navy ship.  Here is a print of 1:96 hogsheads at 88% the size of the leager:

 
I hope some of you will find this helpful.  I would be happy to send along the pre-supported files and print settings if anyone would like.  
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 
 
Cask with 8 hoops - no lid .stl Cask with 6 hoops - no lid.stl Cask Lid.stl

Thank you very much for this reference and information, Modeller_Masa!
I'm so sorry to say this, but if I get this book I'll end up buying 4 more on the Santa Maria and taking at least another 7 years to finish this model!  🤣.  I just have to get this model finished.  THEN I will totally indulge my obsession with researching ships!  
Kind regards,
Gabe
 

Thanks, Mark!  
Good thing the wood is REALLY patient with me!
Kind regards,
Gabe

Thanks, Bob! 
I'm thinking this will be finished, everything willing, just as the snow melts…perfect time for a visit! 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe