Gabek

Planking the side now should go ok everything look like it supposed to.I have a hard time figuring out the right layout for the planks but once you lay that first strip across the rest just fall into place,  the sealer really makes the grain of the wood stand out I like it. Can't wait for the planks to be done so I can spray the whole ship. The pace may be quicking, BECAUSE I order The Sea of Galalie  boat, it will be here in a few days.  Was going to build the Nina next, but me thinks I jumb into the Galalie boat  lol. Most likely start a new log for it soon,  got the first mate started on the sails for the Pinta ,and found piles of old old fishing line that looks like rope to me so will be using that for the sails . It starting to shine love it, well that all I got  will take more pictures of the planking process  as I go along . So  it won't be long till I up date again. And the new tools and  jigs for cutting are helping I notice an improvement in the ship  🚢 😉 

Excellent!  I was wondering if those lamps had been delivered!  I'm glad they’re working out for you.  Fabulous work, JJ

Been slowly plugging away at chapter 7. I’ve got my first set of lamps in, now I can begin working my way forward to complete chapter 7. I’ve been building some fittings, including the pumps and the stove and I started on the forward guns in anticipation of chapter 8. I’ve also got the first bulkhead installed and after I complete a few more sets of lamps I can move on to the next bulkhead. Lots of care has been taken to make the electrical element as discrete as possible,
I have been thinking of how to accomplish this for months and I decided on a simple system of carving a small channel into the underside of the beam and gently running the wire with some pva to secure it. The natural beams will be the hardest, as soon as I hit the red ones I can begin to fill the channel and smooth it out and simply paint it again. Big thank you to Gabe @Gabek for his assistance with the lamp printing, the resin printer captured the 3D model wonderfully. These are very small pieces and require some assembly work as well as an opaque glazing. I’m happy with the results. 
JJ

Man, you're going so fast your model might catch fire!  🤣Nice work!👏🏼
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Man, you're going so fast your model might catch fire!  🤣Nice work!👏🏼
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Man, you're going so fast your model might catch fire!  🤣Nice work!👏🏼
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Man, you're going so fast your model might catch fire!  🤣Nice work!👏🏼
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

I had to add a new desk to the ship yard, so everything is upside down  right now, so the rest of the night is organizetion  time lol 

Nice work on these models @Knocklouder 😃 You work super fast! I wish I was as fast on that planking xD

Beautiful work, JJ!  A masterpiece.  
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Bob, 
You've got it wrong...you might be the captain but you're NOT in charge!  You've always got the admiralty above you! 🤣  
And, just remember Mark Taylor's signature:  

Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
(Captain, NOT Admiral)🤣 

Bob, 
You've got it wrong...you might be the captain but you're NOT in charge!  You've always got the admiralty above you! 🤣  
And, just remember Mark Taylor's signature:  

Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
(Captain, NOT Admiral)🤣 

Bob, 
You've got it wrong...you might be the captain but you're NOT in charge!  You've always got the admiralty above you! 🤣  
And, just remember Mark Taylor's signature:  

Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
(Captain, NOT Admiral)🤣 

Keep persevering mate; and don't be afraid to re-ask questions.  Most on this forum are a patient lot.
 
Can I ask how you are cutting the butt ends of your plank.  You may need to make a jig of sorts to help you with this.  A simple jig would allow you to cut consistent lengths, squared at the ends, and also allow you to consistently drill the tree nail holes.  Give me a PM if you need more info.
 
cheers
 
Pat

So far, she's looking good, Bob.   Are using any of the planking tutorials?   There's a pinned post here with the tutorials:  https://modelshipworld.com/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/
 
 

Making progress 😌.  Still can't under stand some of forms  stuff, but my son is teaching me.  Learning lots,  don't  want to ask questions that's been asked millions of times ,but if you don't know were to look .For the first year I never click on the banner  that said , no modeling questions,  lol I clicked on it found  the form ,kid on the lose lol 😆 😂. Thought  shore leave was punishment  lol time outs lol . But all in all getting the hang of it so, again sorry for taking so long for the switch to come on.
 
 Well found a site that show how to blacken the side of your planks. Black marker, he did pastel,  marker, black string.
The pastel was messy ,string more then I wanted to do so marker it was. It turn out good for me . One thing is the colour of the stain I used for the floor, I should have used a light Grey stain but it will do. Because I did the Santa Maria  floor want all 3 ships to have the same color.

Bob, a good idea to protect the planking after you lay it, but please be aware of two 'things' to make your life a little easier.  First, choose the varnish/stain carefully after testing on the same type of wood, as some varnishes can change the colour/tone of the wood.  More importantly, be aware of where you will need to glue/fix deck furniture etc as gluing to a varnished surface will not provide the necessary strength sometimes - you can either not varnish that area, or you could use additional fixing supports (such as pins etc).  Just a head's up.
 
cheers
 
Pat

I snuck some time in to work on my Winnie the last few days, pulled a few late nights but I finally made some headway on chapter 7. I still Need to fine tune the aft deck beam and permanently set my lantern wiring before I can complete the transom. All the beams went together relatively easily, just lots of test fitting. I added some fluted columns to the transom frames, I’ve seen this before on some models and I’ve always liked it but I mainly did it to cover up my lantern wire run up the inner stbd frame and it worked out well. I stole Bens idea and used the laser etched mouldings that I had leftover for the tops and  bottoms of the columns....still wish I did that on the outside... oh well.
 It was really fun to get back to work on Winnie again, I decided to build most of the stove for fun while I waited for beams to dry. Hopefully I can get some more completed in a couple weeks.
JJ

Getting close to finishing up chapter 3, have a few loose ends to clean up and some moulding to fix, But here’s some fresh updates still showing wet WOP.
JJ
 

Pandora’s Box
 
What have I gotten myself into?!
I’m really second-guessing my decision to build the well and shot locker.  I’m sure I spent more time building this little thing than I spent on building my garden shed!  And, this decision to add the well has created a ripple of changes to the model from the original MSW plans.  Thank goodness I have Ainars Apalais’ build log for reference - such a beautiful and motivating model!  My final design was an amalgam of four sources: actual photos of period shot lockers from HMS Victory, HMS Trincomalee, plus drawings from AoTS: HMS Diana and AoTS: HMS Pandora.

 
After cutting some 1.80mm square stock from birch for the stanchions I prepared planks using 1/32” - 0.8mm baltic birch plywood. The planks in the well were beveled so they fit together better, so I filed/sanded bevels top and bottom edges.  I drew arrows on the planks so I wouldn't get the bevels the wrong way, but it didn't always work!  I began with the bulkhead that separated the well and shot locker.  As I progressed I came upon several inconsistencies in my model.  Of course there were minor flaws in the existing framing and planking of this model - but they became so obvious that it drove me nuts.  (Oh yeah, building at 1/96 is another decision I’m regretting!) 
 
In the incredible AoTS books I also found a couple of errors, the biggest one was that the access door to the well was too low for a ship with all its ballast. The ballast cants are almost never showneven though they are integral to the design of the ship.  Because I have included the ballast in this model I was forced to move the door up more than in the drawings. It still looks ok, in my opinion.  
 
Some photos of the process:



After unsuccessfully trying to hand cut some brass hinges for the shot locker scuttles and the access door I decided it was time to play with some of my toys.  First off, I thought I could print these using my resin printer again.  However, these hinges were so thin that the prints failed.  I'm sure that at 1:48 scale I would have succeeded, but not at 1:96.  So I turned to another toy I have: a Jinsoku Genmitsu 1620 laser cutter/engraver. I have been doing mostly engraving hobbies with this small, desktop laser but at 5.5 watts it has enough power to cut through thin wood and some other materials.  I have been dying to try this out for some time now.  I drew hinges using basic shapes in Lightburn, the control software I subscribe to for the laser.  This could have been done in any drawing program and free laser software like LaserGRBL, but Lightburn is much more useful for the engraving I do.  My first attempt was to simply engrave the hinges into the shot locker lid.  (Top left in the above montage).  With a practice piece I got a nice result which would have been fine - it would be inside a tiny model.  But, of course, I decided it wouldn't do.  I needed something three dimensional. 

And again, 1:96 scale came back to haunt me!  I started with the thinnest maple veneer I have. The laser cut very well and could even cut the bolt/nail holes in these tiny hinges.  But even the veneer looked way too thick once I placed them against the door and scuttles.  

 
So, I switched to the only wood product that could be thinner: paper.  Some blue poster board and a manila folder provided very cheap stock for me to play with.  A black felt pen turned them into “iron” and away I went cutting and playing.  

I experimented with folding and gluing the tiny bits of paper to resemble folded strap hinges.   Another hobby came into use as I raided my fly-tying gear for fine black wire to represent pins in the hinges!  By the way, don’t use CA glue if you try this - the paper became so hard that it snapped and cracked when I tried folding them.  Just use PVA. The veneer that I had cut earlier was too thick to represent iron hinges, but it was perfect for the wooden cleats inside the shot lockers to which the hinges are nailed/bolted. So, I glued those onto the underside of the shot locker scuttles. 

After some painting and varnishing of the well and parts I made some ring bolts using the same, fine fly-tying wire.  I found an insect pin that had a diameter close to the diagrams of the ring bolts and wrapped the wire around it.  I drilled small holes and pushed the twisted ends of the wires into place.  A tiny drop of CA on the inside should hold these in.  I placed the paper hinges in place just for these photos. 
 

I won’t install the well and all the associated bits until I do some more work to the hold.  Namely, barrels, shingle ballast, lanterns, block and tackle…
...What have I gotten myself into! 
 
Clear skies!
Gabe
 

Wow, another couple of years has passed! I’m still waiting for all that free time that retirement was supposed to give me…
 
So, after two years I first had to figure out where I left off and get my brain back in the game of solving the riddle of my "micro Titan" (thanks Ray a.k.a ziled68 for the name!).  After a day of reading all my past logs and advice from you folks I came to a couple decisions:  
I will need to finish the hold first: all building, painting and add-ons before building the deck. build the deck in place and not as a single unit off the model.   One decision I still can’t seem to make yet is to build the well like Ainars Apalais' incredible example.  The shot locker is the sticky point…it would impinge on the space under the main hatch. (Funny thing:  I've been thinking about this for two years and one of the things that occurred to me was to build a cutaway main mast…and I see that Ainars did exactly that! 👏🏼)
 
So, I set aside building the mess deck and started on pillars:
 
I cut some 3.3mm square stock from birch and, after cutting to length, I used a knife to chamfer the middle 80% of the corners.  I based this on Anatomy of the Ship: The Frigate Diana and a photo of the hold of HMS Trincomalee.  



 
Pillars in these ships were put in place with square tenons but  I opted to use registration pins. So, I marked the centres on the ends of the pillars and drilled holes for brass wire. I the marked out where on the keelson the pillars were centred and drilled a corresponding hole. It didn’t take long to cut short lengths of brass wire and dry fit the pillars. I need to do some more preparations in the hold before I glue these in place. 
 


 
And may I introduce “Number One” - a figurine I designed on Heroforge.com and printed at 1/96 scale on my Elegoo Mars resin printer. (Another reason I haven’t been building the Triton. I'll be posting about this in another topic shortly.) 
 
Good to be back in the shipyard! 

Nice work, mate. A little birdie tells me your next one is to be the Niña or the Piñata.
 

(Yes, I know I've posted this somewhere else . . .) 
 
Steven

Thanks Gabe. If you can get it to print the metal frame that would be awesome, I’d purchase a bunch from you  
Initially I tried to have shapeways print just the frame and they said it was too small so I just made it a solid. Can’t wait to see your progress.
JJ

This is awesome, Scrubby!  I was about to sit down and draw one up for myself.  I think I may try to print the metal frame and leave it open - then use something like Testor's window maker cement to create the glass portions.  Thanks for offering the .stl file.  I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Clear skies!
Gabe

I've designed a quick lamp model if anyone is interested. its close to 1:48 but can be scaled in any direction. My thought was to print it clear and paint the metal details on, drill a small hole and inset a micro LED. If anyone prints one id like to see how they turn out, I've yet to purchase a printer.

lamp.stl