Gabek

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

THE HARBOR STAND.  Today I made the stand for my Pegasus, I call it the Harbor  Stand because I got the idea from @Snug Harbor Johnny. Thank you.
 Frist I cut up the pieces  and router the edges. Then put some dowels for a little support. 


So then I stain it then two  coats shellac sealer. Boom ship on a stand lol

. So I took the ship off the stand to let everything dry up really well. And now I am off to study the plan to see what my next move is. 
 Looking up way to seal the copper so I can at least touch it with out putting fingerprints all over it . It looks so cool really happy with it.
  Thank you everyone  who's log I looked at and saw how to  install things,  then make my attempt lol Modeling is so much fun. Lol.
 

 

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

You're nailing it, Bro! (Well, actually you're gluing it...but you know what I mean!🤣)
- Gabe

I would like to thank @Gabek for giving me this package of little swabs they were fantastic for spreading the Phatic glue around. A little swipe on the copper plate then some on the ship  and it stuck great.
 So Did a little research  lol and found out I can just  could clear coat the copper. So after I washed it, and wiped it with vinegar, and rinsed it again I dryed it good and sprayed two coats of clear on, I think it looks OK.¹


So I finished all the copper , rudder is done time to move on lol. I have decided to finish off the stern and mount the rudder. 
It does.need a little clean up but it will do. This should be fun, the peices are tiny and I have to paint them lol I can hardly make out what they are , one looks like a knight with a sword  😅 
 Thank for looking

Bob, you set the standard pretty high for newbie’s like me:-) Maybe one day I’ll get there!

So I got up this morning and looked out side, yep still snow on the ground , so I ran down to the ship yard and finished the starboard side  copper. For my first attempt at copper I think I did ok. This is the practice side. It will be displayed looking at the portside. 


It was fun doing the copper. I learnt lots from doing this side it not perfect but for me  it is. I will try to do a better job on the portside. Now that I have done some coppering. The Super Phatic glue is I think fantastic.  It cleans up with water, I had two place that I used super glue on and had to really scrub it off. So sticking to the Phatic glue.
  Thanks to everyone who liked it. On to the portside  lol. Talk soon my friend's. 
.

I think you are fixing to be an expert at coppering hulls!  Great job so far!

Bob,
  Pegasus is looking good!

Great job, Bob!

Great looking, Bob!  This will look spectacular when you're done.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

I have been converting a picture of the guns recovered from the Mary Rose to printable files using Fusion 360. The scale is about 1:20. The second picture is the result after several rebuilds and restarts. I am pretty happy with the final result. If any members would like to make use of any of these cannons for a model then let me know. Otherwise if anyone has a particular cannon they would like modelled i am open to suggestions. All i need is some drawings. The scale can be adjusted to any size. The only limitation is the 3d printer build plate size. Only stipulation is that they are not to be sold. My present project is the culverin at the Basel museum with a dragon head on the barrel.

When I join MSW about 2 an a half years ago I looked at the Pegasus and said oh I got to build one of those  copper bottom hull. Well I am into it, and it really is not that bad to do. This is how I am glueing them on. I am able to put two pieces on at a time. Frist  I glue the pieces making  sure to cover it all, then apply  the Phatic glue to the hull.


 The glue gives me just enough time to slide it into place, you can feel it stiffing up so you have to be ready.  After holding in place for a bit, I use my thumbs to   rub off most of the glue. After I have applied  about 10 or so peices  I go back over it all with a damp magic eraser, this leave a white ish film that is easily removed by a paper towel.
 Most of the peices so far required very little  cutting.  But as I get to nearer  to the water line I see there will be lots of cutting. 
 I glued on a strip of wood at the water line, then painted it black.  Then I took copper paint and painted  just below the water line to hide any small spaces that I am sure will arise lol. So this is how she looks today, next post will be when I finish  the starboard side  lol who know when that will be ,  but I am still having the time of my life, modeler for ever lol.
Thanks to all who have liked my boat. And Thanks to everyone   at MSW and NRG who help me with  my learning curve, I still have so much to learn, but hopefully I'll won't be going any were soon lol 
Take care my friends   

Great looking, Bob!  This will look spectacular when you're done.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Great looking, Bob!  This will look spectacular when you're done.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Great looking, Bob!  This will look spectacular when you're done.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Great looking, Bob!  This will look spectacular when you're done.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Great looking, Bob!  This will look spectacular when you're done.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Pandora’s Box
 
What have I gotten myself into?!
I’m really second-guessing my decision to build the well and shot locker.  I’m sure I spent more time building this little thing than I spent on building my garden shed!  And, this decision to add the well has created a ripple of changes to the model from the original MSW plans.  Thank goodness I have Ainars Apalais’ build log for reference - such a beautiful and motivating model!  My final design was an amalgam of four sources: actual photos of period shot lockers from HMS Victory, HMS Trincomalee, plus drawings from AoTS: HMS Diana and AoTS: HMS Pandora.

 
After cutting some 1.80mm square stock from birch for the stanchions I prepared planks using 1/32” - 0.8mm baltic birch plywood. The planks in the well were beveled so they fit together better, so I filed/sanded bevels top and bottom edges.  I drew arrows on the planks so I wouldn't get the bevels the wrong way, but it didn't always work!  I began with the bulkhead that separated the well and shot locker.  As I progressed I came upon several inconsistencies in my model.  Of course there were minor flaws in the existing framing and planking of this model - but they became so obvious that it drove me nuts.  (Oh yeah, building at 1/96 is another decision I’m regretting!) 
 
In the incredible AoTS books I also found a couple of errors, the biggest one was that the access door to the well was too low for a ship with all its ballast. The ballast cants are almost never showneven though they are integral to the design of the ship.  Because I have included the ballast in this model I was forced to move the door up more than in the drawings. It still looks ok, in my opinion.  
 
Some photos of the process:



After unsuccessfully trying to hand cut some brass hinges for the shot locker scuttles and the access door I decided it was time to play with some of my toys.  First off, I thought I could print these using my resin printer again.  However, these hinges were so thin that the prints failed.  I'm sure that at 1:48 scale I would have succeeded, but not at 1:96.  So I turned to another toy I have: a Jinsoku Genmitsu 1620 laser cutter/engraver. I have been doing mostly engraving hobbies with this small, desktop laser but at 5.5 watts it has enough power to cut through thin wood and some other materials.  I have been dying to try this out for some time now.  I drew hinges using basic shapes in Lightburn, the control software I subscribe to for the laser.  This could have been done in any drawing program and free laser software like LaserGRBL, but Lightburn is much more useful for the engraving I do.  My first attempt was to simply engrave the hinges into the shot locker lid.  (Top left in the above montage).  With a practice piece I got a nice result which would have been fine - it would be inside a tiny model.  But, of course, I decided it wouldn't do.  I needed something three dimensional. 

And again, 1:96 scale came back to haunt me!  I started with the thinnest maple veneer I have. The laser cut very well and could even cut the bolt/nail holes in these tiny hinges.  But even the veneer looked way too thick once I placed them against the door and scuttles.  

 
So, I switched to the only wood product that could be thinner: paper.  Some blue poster board and a manila folder provided very cheap stock for me to play with.  A black felt pen turned them into “iron” and away I went cutting and playing.  

I experimented with folding and gluing the tiny bits of paper to resemble folded strap hinges.   Another hobby came into use as I raided my fly-tying gear for fine black wire to represent pins in the hinges!  By the way, don’t use CA glue if you try this - the paper became so hard that it snapped and cracked when I tried folding them.  Just use PVA. The veneer that I had cut earlier was too thick to represent iron hinges, but it was perfect for the wooden cleats inside the shot lockers to which the hinges are nailed/bolted. So, I glued those onto the underside of the shot locker scuttles. 

After some painting and varnishing of the well and parts I made some ring bolts using the same, fine fly-tying wire.  I found an insect pin that had a diameter close to the diagrams of the ring bolts and wrapped the wire around it.  I drilled small holes and pushed the twisted ends of the wires into place.  A tiny drop of CA on the inside should hold these in.  I placed the paper hinges in place just for these photos. 
 

I won’t install the well and all the associated bits until I do some more work to the hold.  Namely, barrels, shingle ballast, lanterns, block and tackle…
...What have I gotten myself into! 
 
Clear skies!
Gabe
 

A mad dash…
 
The last few weeks have been…busy.  We couldn't ignore our cottage so it beckoned us for several days (still did some modelling, but on another ship:  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34723-hmcs-agassiz-by-gabek-hmv-card-model-1250/) Months ago we booked a trip to visit my parents in British Columbia…always a pleasure.  And on our return a devastating storm hit the park where our cottage is so we had to inspect damage (Nothing, incredibly…just some clean up.  Not so for many up there😢) These all added to my panic in finishing this model.  So, pardon me for a lengthy catch up post…
 
First off, I tightened up the running rigging, re-rove many lines to make a bit more sense, and created coils by soaking line in dilute PVA glue and forming them on sticks.  By this point the AL "plans" were completely ignored.
 


 
While I liked the shape of the sails I didn't like how the foot of the main sail, in particular, rested against the mast and main shrouds.  I first thought of using wire as a tack line to hold the sail off the mast. But right beside me on my bench was my 3D resin printer and the curing station…so I thought I'd try something:  I soaked some lines in clear UV resin, brushed off excess, then hanged them with weighted ends in the curing tank to see if I get a solid tack rope to push the sails where I wanted.  And it sort of worked.  I anticipated that the stiffness in the lines would make knot-tying nearly impossible so I made loops in the ends using a beading needle before soaking, which then cured into a solid ring through which I could tie them to the clews. 


IMG_7455.mov  

Longer pieces sagged, unfortunately.  I thought of a second coat of UV resin but then I was ok with the results.  The wind just dropped a little and the tacks went slack…that's my story. 
 
After gluing on all the coiled ropes I then turned to the remaining objects that needed painting.  By this time I was literally exhausted with this model and all the hours of sitting were killing my back…so I have to admit I was impatient and cranky.  I should have taken more photos.
 
Painting the anchor stock went ok but I refused to just leave the anchors hooked on the gunwales like AL depicts. I quickly checked a few resources and found a rig in AotS Blandford  that looked easy and doable.  At this point an 18th century anchor rigging on this 15th century ship could hardly look out of place! Unfortunately, I somehow misinterpreted the drawing and somehow ended up with this nonsense:

 
I hated the lantern.  It was chunky and not elegant at all.  I added some brass wire and painted the interior "baffles" silver, with an overcoat that was a blend from yellow to orange.  Over brushing brass acrylic on black primer of the housing turned out ok for me.  To simulate glass I used Micro-GLAZE.  Results were…meh. 
 
I showed you Higref and Thonk in an earlier post…these are a couple of heroic characters that have meaning to my son and daughter-in-law.  I created them in HeroForge - an online 3D character builder - and then printed the files to scale on my 3D resin printer.  Painting figures is another hobby so this was enjoyable.  The little splash of colour and scale they bring to the model is very pleasing to me.  I posed them looking outward and forward…on their journey of discovery!

 
I added only one of the kit-supplied flags…
 
…and I was finished!


Started on the case today. 
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe