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ERS Rich

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  1. ERS Rich
    Beautiful, and inspirational, thank you for posting.
  2. ERS Rich
    In my shop, fortunate to have a Fordom drill press with several hand pieces - because my hand gets tired, and need to do the work faster. These micro chucks close to zero, meaning no space when fully closed. Have several pin vices, from micromark, amati, etc. and find even their smallest collet does not close to zero. https://www.foredom.net/product/a-m50-micro-chuck-with-3-32-shank/ Cheers
  3. ERS Rich
    If you have the budget checkout Foredom. https://www.foredom.net/product/cobalt-steel-step-drills-17-head-sizes-from-5mm-to-2-3mm/ -Rich
  4. ERS Rich
    Who makes the kit?
  5. ERS Rich
    Hello, Agree with, and have had success with holes and screws. They provide the support needed to keep the ship straight up, without the need for shims in the pedestal slots. Ideally the holes are best made after the frame is made and before planking. The holes need to be made in a location on the keel below a bulkhead, so the screw makes it into the bulkhead. To get it done, mark the hole locations on the keel. Suspend the ship over the edge of the bench, so the hole location is off the edge, from below hand drill a pilot hole, with a small bit, if it works out, the hole will go into the frame, if not, shift the bit and try again. Using a small bit will allow a hole to be easily filled in. Use progressively larger bits to expand the hole to its final size. Use a small square or a block of wood to make sure the bit is perpendicular to the keel. Good luck!
  6. ERS Rich
    Major assembly completed, it’s an interesting kit, with many little magnets, and looking ahead it seems like the landing gear can be repositioned up for placement on a stand or down for desktop display.
  7. ERS Rich
    Hi Avi, That’s just the tray that held the fittings, it came with the kit. I apologize if my rants polluted your log, have a good weekend. -Rich
  8. ERS Rich
    Hi Jon, Yes, the difference is understood and fully agree, to each his own. A “reconstruction” is also a model. In my world, I operate a shipyard. It mirrors the 18 months, I spent in Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, onboard the USS California, performing a complex overhaul of the reactors and power plant. The real yard fabricated many things, and relied on suppliers for others. The point of the yard is to produce many ships in a timely manner, the point of my yard is to produce models, also in a timely manner. Some want to spend a long time on one model, or reconstruction, my view is to increase the skill level one must build many ships. Thanks
  9. ERS Rich
    Hi Avi, Thumbs up for the pics and the conversation. I just make my models the way I want without too much concern for historical accuracy, other than the general appearance, and following the given plans. My view is scale and finish are more important than the what kind of toilet seat is in the head, the shape of the urinal bowls, or what kind of Eagle is on a paper flag. To each his own, you know, whatever floats your boat. As for the Constitution cannon, or anything, I go with what looks good to me, and easiest to make. I’ve tried the blackening solutions and for me, there are too many steps involved, plus dealing with the solution, and the waste. That’s just me. Certainly others like the blacking solutions, and that’s ok. Here are the cannon for my rendition of the Hermione Lafayette. The picture shows the cannon, the carriages are one piece castings. The unfinished figurehead is there as well. Artisania makes the castings with a white metal. The castings were primed with Mr Metal, the barrels were airbrushed with Vallejo black, then a dry-brush of aluminum to highlight the crown near the touchhole. The wheels were brush painted. Thanks, -Rich
  10. ERS Rich
    Welcome aboard!
  11. ERS Rich
    Received the figures and they live up to the promise. Only took a week to get to Boston. Thanks Chris!
  12. ERS Rich
    Assembling the Fuselage Had to work a few of the pieces in order to close the gaps between the halves, for example the round nubs near the radiator air scoop.
  13. ERS Rich
    Ordered….looking forward to it. Thank you, -Rich
  14. ERS Rich
    What a handsome model. Have same, without sails, this is inspiration to give the sails a try. Thank you.
  15. ERS Rich
    Welcome to Model Ship World! Do you have space for acworkbench?
  16. ERS Rich
    Almost ready to assemble the fuselage. Typical techniques, pre-shading with flat black Tamiya XF-1, Zinc Chromate coat Vallejo Model Air 71.006, control boxes Semi Gloss Black Tamiya X-18 (well thinned), applied with Paasche Talon @20 psi. Note gunsight on the white card - a long way from Revell….
  17. ERS Rich
    Hi Canute, Thank you, the 1/32 scale version…..
  18. ERS Rich
    Hello and welcome to Model Ship World!
  19. ERS Rich
    Awesome!
  20. ERS Rich
    Korean War version of the Mustang, designated F-51D. A beautiful kit that’s been on the shelf awhile. Here are the engine/cockpit/ equipment sections.
  21. ERS Rich
    We now have 3 Halftrack types. On to making all the men and their weapons and accoutrement. Giving the Wood & Leather set a try.
  22. ERS Rich
    Hi David, Before planking the lower hull, between the wale and the keel, consider building out the stern counter first. The counter lower board will give you a straight line for the aft ends of the lower hull planking to meet. The lower hull planking is bounded aft by the counter, forward by the stem, above by the wale, and below by the keel. Check the references/instruction here on MSW and focus on belts, tapering planks, and making sure a plank lies flat along the bulkhead frames. And in a belt, at a bulkhead, the planks in the that belt are generally the same width. This is a big hull, hang in there….. Cheers
  23. ERS Rich
    Welcome to Model Ship World!
  24. ERS Rich
    Hi, For better control, suggest, doing the taper with a small block plane upside down in a small vise. Make sure the plane iron is sharp. Mark the bulkhead locations, work from left to right, plane from the first mark to the left end, second mark to the left end, etc. When the plank lies flat on the bulkheads you are there. In a belt, try to have all the planks the same width at each bulkhead location. You did do a good job…..keep going!
  25. ERS Rich
    Hello and welcome. Your skill set is a great foundation. Looking forward to seeing your work.

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