ERS Rich
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Everything posted by ERS Rich
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Good stuff! Nice shop! -
Try oil based stain as a sealer. Absorbed by the wood fibers but will not fill the grain - unless it’s left to dry. Doesn’t raise the grain. Takes acrylic paint well. Thanks
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Welcome aboard shipmate!
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On the learning curve! And certainly a great effort. I’ve found that months after completing a ship, I notice something that can be done better next time. Good looking work so far, looking forward to your posts. If you haven’t, check out Tom Lauria’s video on Youtube about creating a convincing impression. Your ship does that…. -Rich
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Hello John, Hope you make it up back to speed soon. Regarding shipbuilding. I’ve put projects on hold, one for years before returning - see the Baltimore Clipper link in my signature. It makes sense to build skills to take on the Flying Fish, as you know, an incredibly complex ship. If you have a simpler ship in your “pile” it makes sense to work on it to build skills, complete it, and satisfy your wife. Shipbuilding requires a level of skill at every step of the process: hull, deck, masts, rigging, case; this can only be achieved by going completely through the process. Best to go through this with a simpler ship before the FF. For many years I was an 80% builder, made it that far in the project and started something else. Now, I try to finish before starting another project, but still end up with several projects going on at the same time. At any rate, no right or wrong here, good luck with it, and I’m always around to answer a question. -Rich
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Built the POB - link to album is below. My preference is bevel after the frame is built up. Use a batten (long plank) when filing the bevel to check your work. A file can span several bulkheads, gives good control. Good luck with it.
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Thanks for posting, looking forward to the result. -Rich
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Ahoy in the heartland! Welcome to model ship world. Good luck with your Beagle! -Rich
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Ahoy! Welcome to Model Ship World. Good luck and have fun with your projects. Always around to answer a question.
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Ahoy! Welcome to MSW. Always open to a question. Have a great day.
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Completing the Case - Displaying the Model Last steps are to cut the Lexan and assemble the case. Used a Festool track saw to dimension the Lexan. Assembled the case and moved her out of the shop into the family room. Thanks for following along and Happy New Year! -Rich
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Hello from North Haven, Connecticut, USA
ERS Rich replied to PatLynch's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW! Good luck with you projects! -
Thanks for posting, following along….
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Welcome to Model Ship World, fortunate to have visited Melbourne, with my wife, on a business trip. The people were great and we enjoyed the Great Ocean Road. Judy loved the fresh fruits and vegetables. Have fun with your ship model! Cheers, -Rich
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Good Morning, Recommend a Paasche Talon, available at Coast Air Brush and shellac. Good luck and happy new year!
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Thanks Yves, I’m a cabinet maker, once had a business, and am fortunate to have the equipment. Hand tools could be used to make the base and the base frame - with moulding from a hardware store. The frame groove could be made with a hand router. Check this out from Lie-Nielson Toolworks in Maine. But it is a little tedious. If you don’t have a tablesaw, possibly you could access one by taking a woodworking class. Or approach a local cabinetmaker/shop. Have a good holiday season.
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Case Frame The case frame members are made of 1/2” square Cherry with grooves cut with the table saw. Grooves are centered on the face of the member and 1/8” deep. The posts and top pane frame members have two grooves. The bottom members one. The bottom members have tenons cut to fit the groove. The Burns saw is setup to cut the tenons. Joints will be pin nailed. The post sits on the base top and is supported on two sides by the base moulding. The top panel has mitre corners, that will be glued and supported with metal corner braces. There is a cross piece across the middle. Here the frame is dry fitted. Next is cutting the Lexan panes. Happy Holidays!
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Base Frame Milled the frame components from 4/4 rough Cherry. Base moulding is 1 7/8” high, just under 1” thick. Routed a Roman Ogee edge on the router table. Mitre cuts were made on the table saw with an Incra fence. Glued up the frame, square makes sure of the alignment. Case frame will be made from 1/2” square stock. Here is the table saw setup to cut the stock from the rough. This picture shows cutting the 1/8” deep groove for the Lexan. Stacked up the case components against the base moulding, 1/2” square strip on bottom under 2 short blocks representing the base, and 1/2” square grooved strip on top representing the case frame above the base. Lucked out, stack is flush with top of base moulding. Under the base will be 4 blocks screwed to the moulding with holes to allow screws into the base. There are also 4 corner blocks. To remove the tool marks, sanded the frame with a random orbital sander - 220 grit. As before, finished the Base Frame with Howards Feed and Wax Oil and Conditioner, Beeswax and Orange Oil. Added felt pads to corner bottoms. Here’s the model in the frame.
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Hermione Lafayette - Artisania
Built this frame many years ago. Getting it going again. Additional experience will help with the imprecise directions. Some interesting prebuilt fittings and sewn sails. Have a matching set of figures. A little toy like. Let’s see what happens. No build log this time, updates will appear here.
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The files I like…..deep between the cutting bits so plastic doesn’t build up, yields a smooth finish….. Tamiya Files Enjoy
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It’s looking good, enjoying following along…. -Rich
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Hello and welcome to Model Ship World. Sounds like you are on the right track with a few projects under your belt.. Looking forward to seeing your San Juan…. Have fun in Sydney! Cheers, -Rich
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The Base Happy Hoidays! Decided on a Cherry Hardwood base with a light finish (essentially natural), to contrast with the green hull. To determine the base length and width, measured the length and width of the model and added 3” to both, base is 12” wide by 36” long. Had already a piece of Cherry milled lumber finished to 4/4 (1”), so cut it to the base dimensions. Rubbed down the piece with 0000 steel wool. As the base will be cased, it will not be touched, finished with Howard Feed and Wax, Beeswax and Orange Oil. Flooded the surface, let absorb 20 minutes, wipe down, and repeat. It’s also a quick way to finish wood. Drilled two 1/4” holes in the base 12” apart. Pedestals by Bluejacket with 3 1/2” #10 mounting screws. Drilled out the pedestal bore slightly to accommodate the screws. Stacked the base board on pieces of 2” x 6”, placed the model on blocks, with a couple of cradle blocks - so the beast doesn’t roll, the model is slightly higher than the pedestals. Installed the mounting screws from below the base, through the pedestals and into the pre drilled holes in the hull. Just before final tightening removed the blocks and rested the model on the pedestals. Here she is. I’ll take her out of the shop, while I build the case. Once the case is done the base will be dropped into it.
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