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ERS Rich

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  1. ERS Rich
    No problem, all discussion is welcome. Here is a picture of my setup. Go with 20 psi on the manifold gauge, certainly drops at the tip. Have 3 Talons, #1, #2, and #3 tip, each with a red cutout valve on the manifold. This paint has been good to me so far.
  2. ERS Rich
    Working on finishing the men. Primer coat, airbrushed faces and hands, and now brushing out the uniforms and boots. Plan is to then seal the figure, and finish the faces and hands.
  3. ERS Rich
    Yes, gloss black is important. Primer applied with an Iwata RG-3 mini spray gun @30 psi. Aluminum applied with Passche Talon #3 tip, @20 psi. Paint straight from bottle, no thinner, or flow improver. As you go along the surface, start with mist stroke, tip farther away from surface, then quickly closer to make the surface wet, so as you go along say the wing, the edge between the primer and paint is wet.
  4. ERS Rich
    Thanks, Vallejo paint is very forgiving. Had a problem with airbrush cap fouling and paint splattering midway through the job - boosted the air pressure and kept going for a wet coat, the paint levels nicely. Letting the model sit for a few days before next steps. Plus waiting on Eduard canopy masks - out of stock at Sprue Brothers.
  5. ERS Rich
    Yes, the next step is sealing it, then follow with your favorite techniques.
  6. ERS Rich
    Main color coat applied: Vallejo Metal Color Aluminum, 77.701. The finish is very bright, almost chrome. Expect the bright finish to diminish after the Metal Gloss Varnish - 77.657 is applied. Next will apply various shades of aluminum to individual panels. The anti glare area forward of the canopy will be Olive Drab.
  7. ERS Rich
    Primed with Vallejo gloss black primer 74.660. Bombs and missiles USAF Olive Drab 71.016. Main color coat will be Metal Color Aluminum 77.701.
  8. ERS Rich
    Welcome to MSW! Good luck with your schooner.
  9. ERS Rich
    Hi, Looks like the piece in question is for the mast. To check position, how about dry fitting the deck, say with tape, then check how the mast fits. If the piece is cocked, say side to side, material can be filed off on side, then a strip of wood glued onto the other. The mast can, and probably should have a loose fit in the slot. Shrouds are used to get the mast into final position. Cheers!
  10. ERS Rich
    Keep it simple, something with a single mast….
  11. ERS Rich
    Here she is on the stand with the canopies and subassemblies dry fitted. Two display choices, on the stand with wheels removed, a single piece represents the main landing gear covers, and there are two tail wheel subassemblies deployed and retracted. Or the main landing gear and tail wheel can be installed for table top display.
  12. ERS Rich
    Beautiful, and inspirational, thank you for posting.
  13. ERS Rich
    In my shop, fortunate to have a Fordom drill press with several hand pieces - because my hand gets tired, and need to do the work faster. These micro chucks close to zero, meaning no space when fully closed. Have several pin vices, from micromark, amati, etc. and find even their smallest collet does not close to zero. https://www.foredom.net/product/a-m50-micro-chuck-with-3-32-shank/ Cheers
  14. ERS Rich
    If you have the budget checkout Foredom. https://www.foredom.net/product/cobalt-steel-step-drills-17-head-sizes-from-5mm-to-2-3mm/ -Rich
  15. ERS Rich
    Who makes the kit?
  16. ERS Rich
    Hello, Agree with, and have had success with holes and screws. They provide the support needed to keep the ship straight up, without the need for shims in the pedestal slots. Ideally the holes are best made after the frame is made and before planking. The holes need to be made in a location on the keel below a bulkhead, so the screw makes it into the bulkhead. To get it done, mark the hole locations on the keel. Suspend the ship over the edge of the bench, so the hole location is off the edge, from below hand drill a pilot hole, with a small bit, if it works out, the hole will go into the frame, if not, shift the bit and try again. Using a small bit will allow a hole to be easily filled in. Use progressively larger bits to expand the hole to its final size. Use a small square or a block of wood to make sure the bit is perpendicular to the keel. Good luck!
  17. ERS Rich
    Major assembly completed, it’s an interesting kit, with many little magnets, and looking ahead it seems like the landing gear can be repositioned up for placement on a stand or down for desktop display.
  18. ERS Rich
    Hi Avi, That’s just the tray that held the fittings, it came with the kit. I apologize if my rants polluted your log, have a good weekend. -Rich
  19. ERS Rich
    Hi Jon, Yes, the difference is understood and fully agree, to each his own. A “reconstruction” is also a model. In my world, I operate a shipyard. It mirrors the 18 months, I spent in Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, onboard the USS California, performing a complex overhaul of the reactors and power plant. The real yard fabricated many things, and relied on suppliers for others. The point of the yard is to produce many ships in a timely manner, the point of my yard is to produce models, also in a timely manner. Some want to spend a long time on one model, or reconstruction, my view is to increase the skill level one must build many ships. Thanks
  20. ERS Rich
    Hi Avi, Thumbs up for the pics and the conversation. I just make my models the way I want without too much concern for historical accuracy, other than the general appearance, and following the given plans. My view is scale and finish are more important than the what kind of toilet seat is in the head, the shape of the urinal bowls, or what kind of Eagle is on a paper flag. To each his own, you know, whatever floats your boat. As for the Constitution cannon, or anything, I go with what looks good to me, and easiest to make. I’ve tried the blackening solutions and for me, there are too many steps involved, plus dealing with the solution, and the waste. That’s just me. Certainly others like the blacking solutions, and that’s ok. Here are the cannon for my rendition of the Hermione Lafayette. The picture shows the cannon, the carriages are one piece castings. The unfinished figurehead is there as well. Artisania makes the castings with a white metal. The castings were primed with Mr Metal, the barrels were airbrushed with Vallejo black, then a dry-brush of aluminum to highlight the crown near the touchhole. The wheels were brush painted. Thanks, -Rich
  21. ERS Rich
    Welcome aboard!
  22. ERS Rich
    Received the figures and they live up to the promise. Only took a week to get to Boston. Thanks Chris!
  23. ERS Rich
    Assembling the Fuselage Had to work a few of the pieces in order to close the gaps between the halves, for example the round nubs near the radiator air scoop.
  24. ERS Rich
    Ordered….looking forward to it. Thank you, -Rich
  25. ERS Rich
    What a handsome model. Have same, without sails, this is inspiration to give the sails a try. Thank you.

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