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ERS Rich

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Everything posted by ERS Rich

  1. ERS Rich
    Olive drab and yellow markings finished. Canopy cleaned to remove tape residue with Novus #1 Plastic Clean and Shine.
  2. ERS Rich
    Welcome aboard! Before building a first rate, go through building a ship with one or two masts, small number of canon, less rigging, etc. This way you will gain experience, and decide how you will tackle these jobs, in your shop. Good luck with your projects!
  3. ERS Rich
    Your work looks great. I’m sure once finished, any small perceived imperfections, if any, will not be noticed. Thanks for posting.
  4. ERS Rich
    Uniforms finished. Standard techniques in all the books, selected 3 colors: shadow Model Master Acrylic US Helo Drab, base MMA Green Drab, highlight MMA Dark Green; then wash with diluted base color to blend and knock down the contrast between shades. Leather is Polly-O water base Box Car Red 204281.
  5. ERS Rich
    Onward with the men. Brushed out uniforms with Model Master acrylic Green Drab, then another coat of Model Color Basic Skin Tone 70.815, and finally the boots using the Wood and Leather kit (good instructions show how). Boot base coat Chocolate Brown 7.872, highlight with Flat Earth 70.983, then a wash with Smoke 70.939. Next is shading and highlighting the uniforms.
  6. ERS Rich
    Howdy, and welcome to Model Ship World. Agree, checkout Tom Laurie videos on YouTube. Thank you.
  7. ERS Rich
    Thanks, much appreciated…
  8. ERS Rich
    A shot of the 1/48 Mustang, by Eduard, used as a test for the finishing process, with its 1/32 brother. The 1/48 model has a different shade of aluminum on the main wing flaps, and the wing gun access doors (darker than I wanted, but too lazy to mask and repaint). The 1/32 still has just the aluminum base color and just the light angle provides shading on the wing flaps. The wing gun covers were painted separately, seems like less paint here, black primer underneath darkens the aluminum.
  9. ERS Rich
    No problem, all discussion is welcome. Here is a picture of my setup. Go with 20 psi on the manifold gauge, certainly drops at the tip. Have 3 Talons, #1, #2, and #3 tip, each with a red cutout valve on the manifold. This paint has been good to me so far.
  10. ERS Rich
    Working on finishing the men. Primer coat, airbrushed faces and hands, and now brushing out the uniforms and boots. Plan is to then seal the figure, and finish the faces and hands.
  11. ERS Rich
    Yes, gloss black is important. Primer applied with an Iwata RG-3 mini spray gun @30 psi. Aluminum applied with Passche Talon #3 tip, @20 psi. Paint straight from bottle, no thinner, or flow improver. As you go along the surface, start with mist stroke, tip farther away from surface, then quickly closer to make the surface wet, so as you go along say the wing, the edge between the primer and paint is wet.
  12. ERS Rich
    Thanks, Vallejo paint is very forgiving. Had a problem with airbrush cap fouling and paint splattering midway through the job - boosted the air pressure and kept going for a wet coat, the paint levels nicely. Letting the model sit for a few days before next steps. Plus waiting on Eduard canopy masks - out of stock at Sprue Brothers.
  13. ERS Rich
    Yes, the next step is sealing it, then follow with your favorite techniques.
  14. ERS Rich
    Main color coat applied: Vallejo Metal Color Aluminum, 77.701. The finish is very bright, almost chrome. Expect the bright finish to diminish after the Metal Gloss Varnish - 77.657 is applied. Next will apply various shades of aluminum to individual panels. The anti glare area forward of the canopy will be Olive Drab.
  15. ERS Rich
    Primed with Vallejo gloss black primer 74.660. Bombs and missiles USAF Olive Drab 71.016. Main color coat will be Metal Color Aluminum 77.701.
  16. ERS Rich
    Welcome to MSW! Good luck with your schooner.
  17. ERS Rich
    Hi, Looks like the piece in question is for the mast. To check position, how about dry fitting the deck, say with tape, then check how the mast fits. If the piece is cocked, say side to side, material can be filed off on side, then a strip of wood glued onto the other. The mast can, and probably should have a loose fit in the slot. Shrouds are used to get the mast into final position. Cheers!
  18. ERS Rich
    Keep it simple, something with a single mast….
  19. ERS Rich
    Here she is on the stand with the canopies and subassemblies dry fitted. Two display choices, on the stand with wheels removed, a single piece represents the main landing gear covers, and there are two tail wheel subassemblies deployed and retracted. Or the main landing gear and tail wheel can be installed for table top display.
  20. ERS Rich
    Beautiful, and inspirational, thank you for posting.
  21. ERS Rich
    In my shop, fortunate to have a Fordom drill press with several hand pieces - because my hand gets tired, and need to do the work faster. These micro chucks close to zero, meaning no space when fully closed. Have several pin vices, from micromark, amati, etc. and find even their smallest collet does not close to zero. https://www.foredom.net/product/a-m50-micro-chuck-with-3-32-shank/ Cheers
  22. ERS Rich
    If you have the budget checkout Foredom. https://www.foredom.net/product/cobalt-steel-step-drills-17-head-sizes-from-5mm-to-2-3mm/ -Rich
  23. ERS Rich
    Who makes the kit?
  24. ERS Rich
    Hello, Agree with, and have had success with holes and screws. They provide the support needed to keep the ship straight up, without the need for shims in the pedestal slots. Ideally the holes are best made after the frame is made and before planking. The holes need to be made in a location on the keel below a bulkhead, so the screw makes it into the bulkhead. To get it done, mark the hole locations on the keel. Suspend the ship over the edge of the bench, so the hole location is off the edge, from below hand drill a pilot hole, with a small bit, if it works out, the hole will go into the frame, if not, shift the bit and try again. Using a small bit will allow a hole to be easily filled in. Use progressively larger bits to expand the hole to its final size. Use a small square or a block of wood to make sure the bit is perpendicular to the keel. Good luck!
  25. ERS Rich
    Major assembly completed, it’s an interesting kit, with many little magnets, and looking ahead it seems like the landing gear can be repositioned up for placement on a stand or down for desktop display.

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