DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
The capstan step is made of 4 parts: 3 visible, and one not visible -which holds the step between the deck beams. I chose boxwood for the step. The advanced practicum calls for the step to be constructed with 2 ship-lapped joints. I took the easy way out and used butt joints. The joints between the step parts were “caulked” with black acrylic paint. Bolt heads and a hole for the capstan barrel will come a little later.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
The capstan step is made of 4 parts: 3 visible, and one not visible -which holds the step between the deck beams. I chose boxwood for the step. The advanced practicum calls for the step to be constructed with 2 ship-lapped joints. I took the easy way out and used butt joints. The joints between the step parts were “caulked” with black acrylic paint. Bolt heads and a hole for the capstan barrel will come a little later.
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DocBlake got a reaction from SJSoane in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant!
The three deck beams and four carlings are joined to form the deck, and support the hatch and grating, as well as the capstan step. The practicum suggests two ways of doing this. The first is like the actual historical joinery used. The carlings fit into stopped dadoes or “blind mortises" in each beam, the upper surface of the carling being visible and flush with the deck beams. The second method is easier, if historically inaccurate. It involves making “diagonal” mortise and tenon joints as noted in the first two photos below from the practicum. Once glued together, both decks look the same.
I chose a different method. After marking the mortise locations on the beams, I cut them through the full thickness of the beam, rather than leaving them stopped or “half blind". I then "filled in " the bottom of each mortise up to the bottom border of the carlings with wood to simulate a half blind joint. It the filler pieces come from the same billet of wood as the beams and carling, the “cheat" is barely visible! I've used this technique on several decks in the past.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Welcome, Bruce!
Let’s get started. The project is composed of several substructures. These include the deck framing (beams and carlings), the capstan step, the hatch and grating and the capstan itself. These can be built in any order, but it makes sense to start with the deck framing.
I chose beech for the deck beams and carlings. It looks very much like the oak that would have been used, but the grain/pore structure is much finer than oak. At 1:16 scale it looks about perfect. I milled up the blanks for the beams (1/2" thick X 5/8" wide) and the carlings (3/8" square).
Since the model involves only a narrow portion on the centerline of the deck, no camber was designed into the beams. This makes construction much easier. The photos show the grain and the cut out blanks.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Welcome, Bruce!
Let’s get started. The project is composed of several substructures. These include the deck framing (beams and carlings), the capstan step, the hatch and grating and the capstan itself. These can be built in any order, but it makes sense to start with the deck framing.
I chose beech for the deck beams and carlings. It looks very much like the oak that would have been used, but the grain/pore structure is much finer than oak. At 1:16 scale it looks about perfect. I milled up the blanks for the beams (1/2" thick X 5/8" wide) and the carlings (3/8" square).
Since the model involves only a narrow portion on the centerline of the deck, no camber was designed into the beams. This makes construction much easier. The photos show the grain and the cut out blanks.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
This will be my build log for a scratch built English Naval Capstan circa 1777, The scale is 1:16 (3/4” = 1’). Toni Levine, a name familiar to many of you, produced the plans and accompanying practicum. Toni was assisted by Mike Lonnecker, Bob Andreotti and Alan O'Neill. The result was 29 individual sheets in the planset. The model is only 6” X 6” in size without the capstan bars, so you get the idea as to the level of detail in those plans. In addition, although drawn in 1:16 scale for the most part, all measurements are given in real-life size, so scaling up or down is relatively easy to do. There are actually two versions of the practicum in the package. The first is for intermediate modelers who may own a Dremel tool and a miniature table saw. The second requires owning and knowing how to use a lathe and a mill. I don’t have a mill so I opted for the intermediate version . As is my preference, I’ll try to avoid paint or stain in the build. The bulk of the timbers will be beech, boxwood, pear , bloodwood and holly. Below is the frontspiece from Toni’s practicum showing the finished capstan.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cathead in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from dvm27 in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant!
The three deck beams and four carlings are joined to form the deck, and support the hatch and grating, as well as the capstan step. The practicum suggests two ways of doing this. The first is like the actual historical joinery used. The carlings fit into stopped dadoes or “blind mortises" in each beam, the upper surface of the carling being visible and flush with the deck beams. The second method is easier, if historically inaccurate. It involves making “diagonal” mortise and tenon joints as noted in the first two photos below from the practicum. Once glued together, both decks look the same.
I chose a different method. After marking the mortise locations on the beams, I cut them through the full thickness of the beam, rather than leaving them stopped or “half blind". I then "filled in " the bottom of each mortise up to the bottom border of the carlings with wood to simulate a half blind joint. It the filler pieces come from the same billet of wood as the beams and carling, the “cheat" is barely visible! I've used this technique on several decks in the past.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Duanelaker in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
The keelson was glued in place using Weldbond. The pencil lines are the locations of the five floor riders that help support the mortar. The bolts are darkened 18 gauge brass nails.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Duanelaker in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I cut the keelson blank a bit long and then milled the two bevels on the top surface. I then tapered the aft end to match the rise of the final four frames on the keel/hog. I then cut the keelson to length.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Duanelaker in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
The first part to make is the keel assembly. Jeff's plans call for this to be constructed of 4 separate parts: The hog, keel, upper false keel and lower false keel. I decided to make the hog, or rising wood, part of the keel. The keel /hog assembly, and the upper false keel are European beech, the lower false keel is ebony. There are notches cut into the hog for the various frames. I was able to do this on my Byrnes saw, but it would have been far easier with a mill. You can see the notches rising at the aft end of the keel. The last task was cutting the rabbet. The keel assembly is fixed to the build board by brass rods and is removable.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Duanelaker in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks all!
The jig is upright, like my Blandford and POF Armed Virginia sloop. The plans for the jig top lay it out in two pieces, joined at the midline. Proper alignment is important. The first step is to use spray adhesive to attach the jig top template to some ¼” plywood and then cut out the center part and form the notches that hold the frames in place. There are 5 double frames and 12 single frames – 17 in all. The run of the frames moving aft is pretty straight except for the last few which begin to turn inward, narrowing the hull. The last three frames also rise on the hog. The jig top is positioned on 4 supports that hold the top such that the top surface of the jig top coincides with the load waterline.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Duanelaker in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
The second mortar was forwad of the main mast. Here's a shot of the deck showing the two mortar pits from Timmo's log :
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DocBlake got a reaction from gjdale in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant!
The three deck beams and four carlings are joined to form the deck, and support the hatch and grating, as well as the capstan step. The practicum suggests two ways of doing this. The first is like the actual historical joinery used. The carlings fit into stopped dadoes or “blind mortises" in each beam, the upper surface of the carling being visible and flush with the deck beams. The second method is easier, if historically inaccurate. It involves making “diagonal” mortise and tenon joints as noted in the first two photos below from the practicum. Once glued together, both decks look the same.
I chose a different method. After marking the mortise locations on the beams, I cut them through the full thickness of the beam, rather than leaving them stopped or “half blind". I then "filled in " the bottom of each mortise up to the bottom border of the carlings with wood to simulate a half blind joint. It the filler pieces come from the same billet of wood as the beams and carling, the “cheat" is barely visible! I've used this technique on several decks in the past.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Welcome, Bruce!
Let’s get started. The project is composed of several substructures. These include the deck framing (beams and carlings), the capstan step, the hatch and grating and the capstan itself. These can be built in any order, but it makes sense to start with the deck framing.
I chose beech for the deck beams and carlings. It looks very much like the oak that would have been used, but the grain/pore structure is much finer than oak. At 1:16 scale it looks about perfect. I milled up the blanks for the beams (1/2" thick X 5/8" wide) and the carlings (3/8" square).
Since the model involves only a narrow portion on the centerline of the deck, no camber was designed into the beams. This makes construction much easier. The photos show the grain and the cut out blanks.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
This will be my build log for a scratch built English Naval Capstan circa 1777, The scale is 1:16 (3/4” = 1’). Toni Levine, a name familiar to many of you, produced the plans and accompanying practicum. Toni was assisted by Mike Lonnecker, Bob Andreotti and Alan O'Neill. The result was 29 individual sheets in the planset. The model is only 6” X 6” in size without the capstan bars, so you get the idea as to the level of detail in those plans. In addition, although drawn in 1:16 scale for the most part, all measurements are given in real-life size, so scaling up or down is relatively easy to do. There are actually two versions of the practicum in the package. The first is for intermediate modelers who may own a Dremel tool and a miniature table saw. The second requires owning and knowing how to use a lathe and a mill. I don’t have a mill so I opted for the intermediate version . As is my preference, I’ll try to avoid paint or stain in the build. The bulk of the timbers will be beech, boxwood, pear , bloodwood and holly. Below is the frontspiece from Toni’s practicum showing the finished capstan.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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DocBlake got a reaction from JpR62 in British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale
Thanks, Grant! Toni PM'd me about the changes. I'm saving the hatch and grating for last.
Last step in deck prep: Using right angle tools to square up the assembly and the final result!
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