DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from KenW in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I ran into another big problem, and it's the damn transom again! That structure has caused more grief than the rest of the build combined. When I completed the planking above the wales, I realized that my planking did not extend up high enough over the completed transom planking. The space would have been fitted with stanchions and a rail. I thought I had the angle of the transom to the counter correct when I glued it in place, but I was off a bit. The transom should have been angled a little more from the vertical than I left it. The result was that the planking of the quarterdeck bulwark is too "low" relative to the transom. No room for a rail! I've enclosed a photo of my transom and quarterdeck bulwark planking as well as one from Bob Hunt's practicum. You can easily see how much "taller" the quarterdeck bulwark planking is on Bob's model. I'm open to suggestions, but I think the only solution is to cut down the transom planking a bit like the photo with the blue line suggests. This will have to be carefully measured and drawn out to accommodate the stern carvings to come later. Any other solutions?
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
That transom angle is critical...and there is no easy way to get it right, It also creates a very fragile joint until it's beefed up on the sides. Go slow and carefully. It will turn out. See earlier in my log what can happen back there! Jonathan had problems too.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The lower deck planks are in place. I set the stove in it's approximate position on the lower deck. The space between the fore and aft lower decks is the hold. It's separated from the two decks by bulkheads, and another bulkhead divides the hold into a hold/light room and the magazine. The planking in the hold is applied directly to the frames. There are no beams.
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DocBlake got a reaction from KenW in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The lower deck planks are in place. I set the stove in it's approximate position on the lower deck. The space between the fore and aft lower decks is the hold. It's separated from the two decks by bulkheads, and another bulkhead divides the hold into a hold/light room and the magazine. The planking in the hold is applied directly to the frames. There are no beams.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The deck beams for the lower decks installed. The forward lower deck is where the stove sits. The aft lower deck is really just a catwalk that leads from the hold. The hold is subdivided into a hold proper with a light room, and a magazine where I'll add the gunpowder kegs and build the well and shot locker.
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DocBlake got a reaction from dgbot in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The lower deck planks are in place. I set the stove in it's approximate position on the lower deck. The space between the fore and aft lower decks is the hold. It's separated from the two decks by bulkheads, and another bulkhead divides the hold into a hold/light room and the magazine. The planking in the hold is applied directly to the frames. There are no beams.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Jack12477 in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The deck beams for the lower decks installed. The forward lower deck is where the stove sits. The aft lower deck is really just a catwalk that leads from the hold. The hold is subdivided into a hold proper with a light room, and a magazine where I'll add the gunpowder kegs and build the well and shot locker.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Congratulations on the award, Brian. Well deserved.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Hi Don. I've been consumed by the AVS, but the Snake is sitting near my work area and I may start in again . I took a break because of frustration over the stern of the ship, but I agree, she's a pretty ship and the model deserves to be finished. Hopefully soon. Thanks for the kind words, by the way!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The lower deck planks are in place. I set the stove in it's approximate position on the lower deck. The space between the fore and aft lower decks is the hold. It's separated from the two decks by bulkheads, and another bulkhead divides the hold into a hold/light room and the magazine. The planking in the hold is applied directly to the frames. There are no beams.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The lower deck planks are in place. I set the stove in it's approximate position on the lower deck. The space between the fore and aft lower decks is the hold. It's separated from the two decks by bulkheads, and another bulkhead divides the hold into a hold/light room and the magazine. The planking in the hold is applied directly to the frames. There are no beams.
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DocBlake got a reaction from zoly99sask in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Congratulations on the award, Brian. Well deserved.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Congratulations on the award, Brian. Well deserved.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GLakie in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Congratulations on the award, Brian. Well deserved.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Congratulations on the award, Brian. Well deserved.
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DocBlake got a reaction from dgbot in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The deck beams for the lower decks installed. The forward lower deck is where the stove sits. The aft lower deck is really just a catwalk that leads from the hold. The hold is subdivided into a hold proper with a light room, and a magazine where I'll add the gunpowder kegs and build the well and shot locker.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Here's the finished stove. I still have to finish the grease tray. The stove was to have a guard rail surrounding the top cooking surface, but I felt I had to draw the line somewhere. The hinges and firebox door/oven doors are far from perfect...even in this scale every little error shows. Still, I do like working in the larger scales in general because of the detail it allows one to add.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I finished up the third coat of poly on the exterior. Before I did that, I added some trim made of purple heart above and below the great cabin lights. It carries the color scheme of the topsides around to the stern of the ship.
I cut out and cleaned up the lower deck beams, I'm planning to change a few things down there, so I started scratch building the ship's stove. The kit provides a very nice 3-D printed stove, but I wanted my own. It's kind of a modified Brodie stove without the chain-driven rotisserie. The first step was to build a "core" out of 2 pieces of wood. I then added the sides out of 1/32" plywood. The grid irons are brass rod passing through holes drilled with a #75 drill. The boiler tops and lids are made of wood, the handles and the diagonal reinforcing rods are steel wire. The oven doors, firebox door and ash tray door are all 1/64" plywood...the hinges are cardstock. I made the spit racks out of brass rod, soldered them together and trimmed them to shape. I need to add the legs, build a grease pan and add some trim to the stove before priming and painting.
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DocBlake got a reaction from dgbot in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Sorry, Ken I forgot to respond. I'm a woodworker, so I have a full compliment of tools in my shop. Most of them are not applicable to model work because of scale issues. Those I use for modeling include a Byrnes miniature table saw, a Dremel tool drill press and router attachment (both cheap and helpful) and a regular old scroll saw. Of all these, the Byrnes saw (or equivalent) is probably most important. I small benchtop sander is helpful, also.
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DocBlake got a reaction from KenW in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
LOL, Don!
I was really disappointed in how the stove looked before painting ; wood, paper, bits of metal and contrasting colors looked like a 5 year old's project. But I kept telling myself that the paint will change everything. It brought it together and camouflaged all my errors! Thanks.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Sorry, Ken I forgot to respond. I'm a woodworker, so I have a full compliment of tools in my shop. Most of them are not applicable to model work because of scale issues. Those I use for modeling include a Byrnes miniature table saw, a Dremel tool drill press and router attachment (both cheap and helpful) and a regular old scroll saw. Of all these, the Byrnes saw (or equivalent) is probably most important. I small benchtop sander is helpful, also.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Gunpowder Kegs
Thanks, all. I'll paint the hoops on the kegs copper colored. The model already has plans for a light room .
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DocBlake got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in VandaLay Hold it Plus
Maury: Yep. Every time George needed an alias he chose "Vandelay". When he lied about his employment he claimed to work for "Vandelay Industries".
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
LOL, Don!
I was really disappointed in how the stove looked before painting ; wood, paper, bits of metal and contrasting colors looked like a 5 year old's project. But I kept telling myself that the paint will change everything. It brought it together and camouflaged all my errors! Thanks.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Sorry, Ken I forgot to respond. I'm a woodworker, so I have a full compliment of tools in my shop. Most of them are not applicable to model work because of scale issues. Those I use for modeling include a Byrnes miniature table saw, a Dremel tool drill press and router attachment (both cheap and helpful) and a regular old scroll saw. Of all these, the Byrnes saw (or equivalent) is probably most important. I small benchtop sander is helpful, also.
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