DocBlake

I like using card.  It is extremely versatile.  
 
It is extremely cheap.  This project started as a box.
 
It is also easy to work.  You just have to work slowly and carefully.
 
I am making progress on the hull covering:

I trimmed the forward bulwarks a bit.  I checked to make sure I can get a scalpel in and I can.
 
I started planning out the bulwarks which are supposed to be an 1/8” thick.
 
Part of that is planning the gunports, which will be properly framed in with posterboard.  I’ll let you all know more about how I will do this, once I figure it out myself.

It has been a very fun build so far.
 
I made a new beakhead:

Here it is attached:

 
It’s actually fixed in place with steel pins.  The glue is really only filling the gaps.  It won’t break now, lol.
 
I need to start making them from wood from the get go, instead of retrofitting them when the original one breaks.  Lesson learned.

I had the Hannah mostly ready for “planking”:

It only needed the transom pieces, and I debated on waiting until after adding the hull skin to attach them.  However, they assist with the stern hull contour, so I went ahead and added them.

The transom pieces were not anywhere near as painful or difficult to draw, make or install, as I thought they would be.  This is good to know for when I make a frigate or other larger warship.
 
As a quick side note, all corrugated cardboard in visible areas will be either closed off (made to look solid like the keel and breakwater) or removed, after “planking”.
 
The word planking is in quotation marks because the initial run of planking will be made of the same stuff beer coasters are, a pulp board type paper (I found a sheet of it on an online craft store), and will be vertical, with the bulkheads.  I will be using the exact same method that I did on the Prince de Neufchatel.
 
 
 

The hold in place:

I modified the initial plan after looking at the model of Hannah in the US Navy’s museum.
 
I ended up fairing the entire hull and only built up frame f.  Frame l was fine.  Frame m stuck down too much.  I am waiting on the glue to dry so I can carve down f.


I cut the hole for the hold.  I made two spacers and ended up shimming one side of that.  I also drilled/cut the mast holes.

I still need to make the framing pieces for the transom.  I’ve never done this part before, so it will be a learning experience.

Yes, they do, lol.
 
Here is my solution to the issue of the bulkheads:

I traced the pattern onto double thickness 1/16” x 1/4” basswood.
 

So far, so good:

Everything is glued in place.
 
I have identified a couple of bulkheads (l, the one sticking up in the back, and f), that are going to require some slight improvement.  I will build them up with posterboard once they dry and do some minor reshaping.
 
Note to self-person:  check for this BEFORE you glue.
 
I will also make some spacers where the two decks meet, between f and g, to correct a slight bend.
 

I'm well into building the AVS (just finishing deck planking).  My advice is to purchase Bob Hunt's practicum.  The kit instructions are often vague or misleading.  The practicum is extremely detailed and step-by-step.  Also, you can access the practicum's forum for questions, and get  a quick response from Mr.  Hunt.  Just my two cents, but I think the practicum is worth it.
 
Dave

Still at it!  Working on frames.  I've beveled the cant frames and i'm fitting them to the fore deadwood.  Only rough sanded.  No bolts or poly.  In fact, the futtock template drawings with  the bevel lines are still cemented to the frames!

Thanks, everyone!
 
This model is based on Hahn's plans, but uses an upright jig, unlike Hahn's method.  As drawn, the plans leave little extra length in the top timbers to ensure that they can be trimmed to the right height.  After fitting the feet of the cant frames to the deadwood, the first three frames came out dangerously close to too short.  I weighed my options and decided to remake frames #32, #33, and #34, leaving the top timbers 1/4" longer than the plans.

I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat.  I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short!  I also placed the treenails.  Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone!

As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place.

I did make one unfortunate discovery.  The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24.  I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model.  This will slow things down a bit!
 

HI EVERYONE,
AS MENTIONED A FEW WEEKS BACK I MISSED PLACE MY FLASH DRIVE WITH THE PROGRESS I OVER THE PAST EXTENTED TIME I WAS AWAY FROM POSTING. SO I FINALLY HAVE GIVEN UP LOOKING FOR IT. SO I AM JUST GOING TO UPDATE WHERE I AM AT PRESENT.
WHEN I DECIDED TO ADD DETAIL TO A LOWER DECK, I ALSO DECIDED NOT TO FULLY PLANK THE HULL. SO WHEN DONE GUEST AT MY HOME COULD STILL SEE BELOW DECK. I DECIDED TO PLANK BELOW THE WALES IN FRESHLY MILLED BOXWOOD AT THE TIME I DID THE PLANKING WHICH WAS ABOUT 3 MONTHS BACK.
FROM THERE I COMPLETED THE WINDLASS AND I ALSO WENT WITH PLANKING BELOW THE CAPRAIL WHERE OTHERS LEFT THE STANCHIONS. THEN I REALIZED A GREAT MISTAKE OR SOMETHING I OVER LOOKED. I TOTALLY FORGOT THE SCUBBERS. OH WELL THEY ARE OUT. I PAINTED ABOVE THE WALES AS YOU NOTICED, BUT LEAVING BELOW THE WALES UNPAINTED. I MILLED HOLLY FOR THE DECK PLANKING. I AM STILL UP IN THE AIR ABOUT TRUNNELS AS OF YET. I LEFT OPENINGS IN THE DECK TO AGAIN ALLOW ACCESS TO SEE THE LOWER DECK DETAILS. THE COAMINGS WERE MADE OF PEAR WOOD. I THOUGHT IT GAVE A NICE CONTRAST TO THE SWISS PEAR, HOLLY, AND YELLOWHEART. AS FOR THE GRATINGS WHICH ARE NEXT IN LINE TO WORK ON. I'M THINKING HOLLY, BUT DON'T KNOW. FIRST I AM NOT SURE I CAN MAKE THEM GOOD ENOUGH TO USE. HAHA! SO THERE YOU HAVE IT I AM IN THE MIDDLE OF MAKING THE DECK DETAILS ON THE HANNAH. PLUS WORKING ON ALL THE DETAIL OF MY WHALEBOAT. TWO SCRATCH BUILDS AT THE SAME IS NO BIGGIE. I GET A LITTLE TIRED OF ONE I SWITCH.
PLUS I AM A WOODWORKING. BEEN MAKING SOME NICE PICTURES LEDGES FOR MY WIFE, PLUS A MAPLE AND WALNUT CUTTING BOARD SHE LOVES BUT WON'T USE A KNIFE ON IT, SO NOW IT'S HER WINE TRAY. LOL! MY SON WANTED TO WORK WITH ON AKING HIS OWN SKIMBOARD FOR OUR BEACH TRIPS. SO I AM DOING THAT ALSO.
I RE-ORGANIZED MY MODELING WORK AREA SINCE RETIREMENT. AND MADE MYSELF WORKBENCH TABLE TOP FOR MY BIGGER PROJECT. SO STAYING BUSY YOU MIGHT SAY.
I HOPE MY MODELING SKILLS WILL IMPROVE NOW THAT I HAVE MORE TIME TO PUT INTO. GOD WILLING AND QUITE A FEW YEARS DOING SO.
 
 
 

Very nice job!  Outstanding metal work!

Very nice job!  Outstanding metal work!

I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat.  I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short!  I also placed the treenails.  Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone!

As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place.

I did make one unfortunate discovery.  The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24.  I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model.  This will slow things down a bit!
 

Thanks, everyone!
 
This model is based on Hahn's plans, but uses an upright jig, unlike Hahn's method.  As drawn, the plans leave little extra length in the top timbers to ensure that they can be trimmed to the right height.  After fitting the feet of the cant frames to the deadwood, the first three frames came out dangerously close to too short.  I weighed my options and decided to remake frames #32, #33, and #34, leaving the top timbers 1/4" longer than the plans.

I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat.  I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short!  I also placed the treenails.  Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone!

As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place.

I did make one unfortunate discovery.  The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24.  I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model.  This will slow things down a bit!
 

I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat.  I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short!  I also placed the treenails.  Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone!

As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place.

I did make one unfortunate discovery.  The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24.  I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model.  This will slow things down a bit!
 

I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat.  I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short!  I also placed the treenails.  Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone!

As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place.

I did make one unfortunate discovery.  The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24.  I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model.  This will slow things down a bit!
 

I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat.  I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short!  I also placed the treenails.  Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone!

As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place.

I did make one unfortunate discovery.  The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24.  I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model.  This will slow things down a bit!
 

I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat.  I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short!  I also placed the treenails.  Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone!

As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place.

I did make one unfortunate discovery.  The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24.  I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model.  This will slow things down a bit!
 

Hi
When I started this project, I was most afraid how i will make brass  Gangway brackets.
I had never really worked with brass and don't have any experience with soldering.
 
After many attempts its looks quite good/for me:)/
 



When the brakets are installed


 

Very nice, Mario!

Very nice, Mario!

NOW THE STERN SIDE DETAILS FOR THE PORT N STARBOARD SIDES WAS A BIT FINICKY. BUT WAS FUN TO DEAL WITH. BUT RIGHT FROM THE START I RAN INTO A DISCREPANCY. I LET THE PICTURES EXPLAIN THE ISSUE.