DocBlake

After prepping the blank for the ledges (cutting the batten notches), I started with the battens.  The notches for the battens were cut freehand in the Byrnes saw. I didn’t use an indexing pin like you would with a box joint jig.  I’m pretty good at this, and my notches on the ledges vary in width from one another by only a few thousandths of an inch.  The eye can’t discern any differences.  Make sure the depth of cut is equal to the thickness of the battens or slightly less.  Lock the blade height!
 
  Then cut out the battens, more than needed, and making them slightly wider than needed to fit in the notches.  Use the fence and the fine micrometer adjustment on the Byrnes to “sneak up” on each individual batten.  A custom fit for each batten!  
 
Next, use a slitting blade on the Byrnes and slice off the grating ledges.  I cut about twice what I needed (14).  Using boxwood, and at this large scale, I didn’t have one broken tooth!  Each of those ledges has a pencil mark near one end on the back side so all the slightly varied notches for the battens line up.  

 

I anticipated the hatch grating would be the toughest job in the build, so I put it off until near the end. The practicum outlines a couple of methods of making the grating, but both require gluing up individual grating ledges into a “sandwich” with PVA glue and then dissolving the glue in isopropyl alcohol once the notches for the battens are cut. I took a little different approach. I did this all with a Byrnes saw and a disk sander, so most scratch builders can use the same technique First, I decided to build the hatch coamings to fit the grating and not vice versa. The gratings are made of 2 different parts : The grating ledges – the parts with the “teeth” that define the holes in the grating, and the battens, which fit into the spaces between the teeth. The ledges are 3/16” thick and the battens are 3/64” thick. The teeth and the space between them are all 5/32” square. I milled some 3/16” boxwood for the ledges and glued a grating ledge side template to the edge of the strip. Preset the depth of cut to 3/64”. I then carefully cut the teeth and recesses for the battens. A sliding table for the Byrnes saw makes this easy work, but you can do a fine job with just the miter gauge. Once the grooves for the battens are cut, turn the blank over and draw a line across the bottom of the blank, parallel to the grooves and close to one end. This will orient the pieces when it comes time to assemble the grating. Mill a piece of boxwood 3/64” thick. We’re ready to cut ledges and battens. The last photo shows the pencil line on the back of the blank, parallel to the grooves.
 
 


 

Thanks guys…more to come soon!

Many of us would be very interested!  Who will do the CAD work?

Many of us would be very interested!  Who will do the CAD work?

Many of us would be very interested!  Who will do the CAD work?

Hi Dave,
You bring up an interesting point regarding scratch building ships' boats.  I have W. E. May's book, The Boats of Men of War, Lavery has good information on boats in The Arming and Fitting, and there are great contemporary plans from RMG for British boats, but there is no book with plans on actually building model ships' boats.   I have been discussing a project like this with Michael at SeaWatch and if it comes to pass, it would likely be more of a monograph with plans and scantlings on an array of boat types, sizes and eras as well as some "how-to" text and photos.  Whatcha think of the idea?
Allan

Hi Pat!  Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
 
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions.  They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull.  The inside surfaces then need thinning.  I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper.  Worked well.  No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.   
 
 
 

I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks.  They are balsa wood so they shaped easily.     The filler blocks and the frames were then faired.  No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks. 
 
 
 

As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces.  I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors!  Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions.  I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit!  When the glue dried I removed the nails.  The next task is bow and stern filler blocks.  There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.  
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern.  I’ll make it in two pieces.  I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and  #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces.  I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets.  When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top.  Next is to install the subdeck.   
 
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
 
 
 

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

I'm currently starting a Lauck Street true POF kit build of an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768,  I'd like to include the stove, but the Brodie stove didn't begin to be used until about 1781.  Does anyone have a link to photos or plans of ship's stoves predating the Brodie?  If not, I'll go with the Brodie, accuracy be damned!  Thanks for the links, BTW.

Bill:  Did you have plans for the Brodie stove or did you draw up your own?  I'm going to want to build one myself!

Great job on the Brodie stove, Bill.  Your model is beautiful.  Keep up the good work!
 
Dave

I'm really loving this build!  It's an inspiration.  Very nice job.  I'd love to build her, but I'm going to have to teach myself CAD.  BTW, thanks again for the plans, Bill!

Fantastic job...especially considering it's your first scratch build.  She looks great!  Keep up the good work.  You set a high bar!
 
Dave

I think the maple frames are going to look great. I love contrast between the maple and the
stained cherry keel.
 
Dave

That's incredibly generous of you, Bill!   One day I'll repay the favor.  I was planning on using the Bodnar practicum for the build, but I'll watch the modifications you are making with interest.  I guess what I'm saying is that I'm not sure which set of plans/drawings I'll need (all of them?!).  Let me know what you think.  I'll PM you with contact into.  Thanks again, so much!
 
Dave

Very nice, Bill!  I'm very interested in this build as I'd like to try it myself.  My problem is that I know absolutely nothing about CAD, and drawing the frames by hand will take the remainder of my life, most likely.  Any thoughts about selling your CAD drawings to those of us who can't/won't learn how to do them ourselves in CAD?
 
Dave

Magnificent job on the transom, Bob.  Really beautiful.  It makes me want to start my Lauck Street Halifax!

Thanks John!
The companionway door hatch on our boat has a functional louver (British spelling = louvre) panel made of mahogany. It allows nice ventilation of the cabin when the forward hatch is open. I wanted to duplicate it, but a functioning louver was just too fussy to attempt, so I simulated it! I cut some slats at an angle and glued them to some 1/32" plywood, then framed the "louver" in mahogany. The final photo is the finished product.
 
 
 

We've done some remodeling in our home, and we have a space to fill.  There is a large, second floor dormer alcove overlooking the entry hall with nothing in it!  I decided to finally finish the gaff-rigged sloop and display it up there!  The first addition was adding the rubbing rails (like wales) made of mahogany.  The photos show some of the parts which are already completed, sitting in place (not yet glued).  The wood is mahogany and birch plywood.  The hull will be flag blue and the topsides will be white.  More to come!