Dan Vadas

Hello dear Johann,
your words mean a lot for me, I am really honored and do appreciate your praise. I also admire your gorgeous work and perfect workmanship, that is a great inspiration for me and many people. Thank you very much.
 
Hello dear friend,
If you want to marry me, you will need a huge amount of courage cause I'm a pretty devil  and do not understand how my husband has managed to endure with me more than 18 years.😄 Just a joke, I know.
I am going to post plenty of my techniques for people here and I am sure,  that will help you and show, how to do. And I will be also grateful for ideas, how to improve the work and do things in a better way. In fact I am still learning and looking for new ways, how to improve my work.
 
********************************
 
I continue with interior and wooden lining of the walls - of course I make it using self adhesive foils laid on more layers. I will also post some pics from process soon, how I did it.
 

 
Best regards
 

TULLE, used in Bridal Veils among other things, makes very good Netting. It comes in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors :
 

 
  Danny

Hello Rob,
No problem, I would like to explain anything, only my English is not very good and sometimes is a bit difficult to understand. Plenty of various modifications and structural elements I try to do accroding to museum models and paintings/drawings from that period. I am also very grateful for help and professional advice to the top expert and experienced naval captain from our country - Kpt.KL. I have already written about him in some of my previous posts. For example you can read through his professional research about Sovereign of the Seas (1637).
 
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=183&t=46754
 
Several years ago I built a model of this ship (also a scratch build out of card) according to his advice and research, and achieve one of the most realistic results. Here are some pics of my model:
 

 
 
 
 

Hello dear friends, 
I have just started with interior of a great cabin, at this moment it looks rather untidy but during next weeks it will be fully equipped and nice. Here are some actual pics, how the "change" begins.... The last gunports on main deck (before quarter galleries) will be closed and the space between them will serve for electrical wiring.
 

 
 

Dear friends, 
I am very pleased you like my models, I do appreciate your kind words and "likes". Sovereign of the Seas and Royal Katherine will be anchored side by side, after finishing the RK. Here are some pics from our home port and illuminated ships:
 

 
Best regards,
Doris
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 315 – More Yard ironwork
 
So, except for a few parral straps and the unfortunate mizzen skysail yard, all the remaining yards are now made and fitted with their ironwork.  This post describes the final steps in completing those yards.
 
On the largest yards, the yardarm bands were fit over the arms then drilled for their eyebolts – usually two or three on each.  With the smaller yards, this drilling into the wood weakens the yard arm, so prefabricated bands with soldered-in eyebolts were made for these.  I believe I described some of the fabrication steps in earlier posts, but the first picture shows one of these being drilled.
 

The first two holes were drilled through, and fitted with a pin to help set the piece in the vise with the side holes horizontal - for drilling the third hole.  The copper tube used here was a very tight fit over the arm and was also filed around the outside to reduce its thickness.  The next picture shows two eyebolts set into a tube with solder paste applied.
 

After soldering, the bolt excess on the inside was removed out with an abrasive bit and a round file.  The tube was then set in the vise to saw off the band.
 

The band is held with pliers to prevent its flying or dropping to the floor when it is parted.  Searching for these small, dropped parts is a major annoyance.  A better method for this is to insert a length of wire into the tube above the saw blade when it is almost cut through to retain the loose piece.  The next, rather poor photo, shows one of the smallest of these bands fit to its yard.
 

This is a tight fit.  The sheave in this yard remains to be carved out.
 
The lower, upper topsail, and topgallant yards on the fore and main masts carry studdingsail booms for the top, topgallant and royal studdingsails, respectively.  In this final set of yards only the main topgallant required these.  The fabrication of the gear was described in an earlier post, but a few pictures of the work on the last of these is shown below.  In the first picture the strap that reinforces the yardarm is being filed out of a copper strip.
 

This is then bent to fit around the arm and the legs clipped to size.
 

The bands are then held entirely by tight-fitting rings pushed over the end of the yard.  The rings shown were cut from tube, then stretched with the small steel mandrel for a tight fit.  The next picture of an earlier yard shows the band assembly and the other boom gear.
 

The main topgallant yard with all it major ironwork is shown in the next picture.
 

At this stage the jackstay stanchions – 28 gauge twisted copper wire eyes – were pushed into the holes previously drilled in the yards.  The tightness of the fit in the .024" holes has proved sufficient, except on the small diameter yards where some additional holding power is needed.  To avoid interfering with blackening, no glue has been used on the yards.  The next picture shows the stanchions on a small yard pushed through, clipped off, and then peened on the underside.
 

In this step the pliers hold the eye of the stanchion and act as an anvil for the light tapping of the hammer. No, this is not how the mizzen skysail yard was broken.  With these installed, the ironwork on the yards was blackened and the remaining minor fittings added.  The final set of yards is shown in the next picture.
 

The ironwork was blackened with liver of sulfur solution brushed liberally over the yard, followed by progressive rinsing under a cold water tap.  When thoroughly dry, the blackened brass jackstays were pushed through the stanchions. Other inserted eyes and the sheet blocks were then glued in with CA and a light final finish of wipe-on polyurethane applied over wood and metal.   In the picture the lower three yards are the main topgallant, royal and skysail yards.  Those above are the mizzen yards from the upper topsail to the royal.  These yards are now ready to be rigged and mounted.
 
 
Ed

I never use emoticons, Druxey, but I attempted it to show my comment on the likes was in jest - a wink and a smile.  All sympathy is appreciated - humor helps as well.
 
Tom, I dug up a photo showing the octagonal mandrel.  When using this to stretch an octagonal ring, the octagon should be formed on the mandrel before stretching.  Except for the piece on the left, these are all hard maple.  If I anticipated many more years of modeling, I would make these in brass, or perhaps just a harder wood, like box.  Also, the tapers need to be very gradual.  The diameter of the 12" long octagonal mandrel goes from about 3/32" to 3/8" at the large end.  The large one on the right was used for mast rings.
 

Thanks to everyone who has reacted or commented on the post.  Let me address the questions:
 
Dowmer, I use silver-soldering, exclusively, for the copper and brass work on the model.  This is a high temperature process with flow temperatures in the 1200F to 1450F range, depending on the composition, primarily the silver content, of the solder.  It is really brazing.   I use a butane or propane torch - necessary for these temperatures.  I use a low silver, phosphorus copper solder (1325F) for most of my work, mainly because it blackens consistently with the copper using liver of sulfur solution.  The solder I use comes in a syringe of paste that includes solder and flux.  Very small amounts may be dispensed and placed accurately.  Here is a link to my supplier:
 
https://contenti.com/jewelry-soldering-supplies/solder/phos-copper-solder-paste
 
There are some other descriptions of the methods I have used in earlier posts and the books go into considerable detail on how to do this - at least how I do it.  There are some rules of thumb: Joints must be in contact, silver-solder does not fill voids like soft solder.  Heat control is important - small parts can be incinerated.  Surfaces must be clean.  Post pickling and buffing is necessary.  There is more, of course.  It is a process and there is a learning curve - but it is easily ascended with some practice
 
Wefalck, the mizzen skysail yard is 5.5" at the center and 2.2" at the yard arm (~.075" and~.03" or ~2mm and ~1mm) at 1:72), so it is quite small.  Fortunately it is not sheaved for sheets at the arms, but it is drilled (.024")for jackstay stanchions (28 gauge copper twisted eyes) and at the center  for a sling eyebolt.  The first one fractured as I was peening the underside of an outer stanchion to secure it in its through-hole in the yard. Risky.  The second one broke as I was bending the  strip for the central band around it.  Again risky - and unnecessary.  Photo below.
 

I had no problem making these yards from Castello and I believe with care they would have survived and worked quite well.  I expect to make the third, and hopefully final piece, from European boxwood, which is about 1/3 stronger than the tropical Castello substitute.  I forsee no problem if I avoid abusing the piece.  I am actually more concerned about the pole sections of the long, ie single stick, royal masts.  Those are really vulnerable with no supporting rigging.
 
Ed
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 314 – Iron Yard Bands
 
Some of this may repeat similar descriptions of earlier work.  Making the ironwork for the yards is the most time consuming part of their fabrication – and much of that work is very repetitive.  There are many iron - that is copper - bands to be made and fit to the yards.  Most of these are silver-soldered from .005" to .015" copper strip to approximate band thickness ranging from 3/8" to ¾" actual at 1:72 scale.  The first picture shows strip for a ¾" thick sling band fit around its yard before soldering.
 

The gap of around 1/32" is intentional, so the band may be stretched after soldering to a tight fit.  No glue is used on these.  Some are drilled for eyebolts and others for pins if extra strength is needed – for example on studdingsail boom irons.  The next picture shows this ring after soldering.
 

The bands has been pushed over the end of a hardwood, tapered mandrel to restore its round shape, stretch it to fit the yard, and for smooth-filing and buffing.  Buffing is shown in the next picture.
 

All this work is done on the mandrel to avoid marring or smudging the surface of the yard.  Even with this precaution, fitting the bands causes some smudge, so the yards are given a "pre-finish" of wipe-on polyurethane for protection and to facilitate later cleaning.
 
In the next picture the band has been fit to the center of the yard and is being center-punched for later drilling of the sling eyebolt hole.
 

In the next picture the saddle for the parral has been glued to the yard over the band.
 

The saddle will then be shaped and its reinforcing bands and copper bolts fitted where these are specified.  Making these bands was described in an earlier post.  The next picture shows a small band being enlarged using a steel tapered scriber.  The enlargement is done on both sides of the band.
 

The last picture shows a pair of larger yards – mizzen topsail yards – with their bands fitted. 
 

The jackstay stanchions have been fitted to the lower topsail yard.  The yard arm bands with the eyebolts will be described in the next post.
 
All these steps are proceeding concurrently on all the remaining yards – except for the tiny mizzen skysail yard – which is being replaced for the third time due to breakage and has therefore fallen behind in the work.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 313 – Mizzen Lower Topsail Truss
 
I mentioned in the last post my plan to complete all the remaining spars at one go.  That work has been progressing with minimal diversion to other tasks.  Shaping all the remaining yards was described in the last post.  That work passes quickly – unlike fitting of all the ironwork that is the most time-consuming part of the work on the yards.  This post describes an interesting piece of that ironwork found on all three masts - the Howe bracket truss for the lower topsail yard - in this case the last of these, for the mizzen.
 
The truss bracket pivots on a pin through a boss on the lower topmast cap.  A horizontal bolt on this bracket engages ears fixed to the central yard band.  The truss allows the yard to be rotated around the mast and "topped" to raise one side or the other.  Since it is fixed to the mast cap, the yard cannot be raised or lowered, so the lower topsail is set at fixed size and not able to be reefed.
 
The first picture shows copper plates cut for the parts of the sling band – and also the drawing detail for the truss assembly.
 

The larger piece will become the ¾" thick band.  The smaller, thicker piece will form the two ears for the bracket bolt.  The band was first fitted around the yard, silver-soldered and stretched to fit tightly around the octagonal center of the yard.  The method I use for making these copper bands was described in earlier posts and will probably be repeated in one of the next posts.  A single U-shaped piece was formed, fit and soldered to the band as shown replaced on the yard in the next picture.
 

Making the ears as a single piece facilitates drilling and alignment of the through-bolt holes.  The next picture shows the assembly fitted to a wood strip that will support it for drilling.
 

The diameter of the (5") bracket bolt is being measured in the picture for sizing of the drill bit. This bracket was made earlier with its fore and main counterparts.  In the next picture the piece is held in the vise by the wood strip and a smaller pilot hole has been drilled through both sides of the U-bracket.  The drill bit has been replaced with the larger final bit.
 

After drilling, the top part of the U-bracket was sawed off with top section joining the two ears held in the vise.
 

The wood strip steadies the work for this step and prevents bending of the ears.  The next picture shows the rough truss assembly after removing the excess top piece.
 

  In the next picture the ears have been rounded and the truss test fit on the mast.
 

The last step was to add a tight-fitting retaining ring to the end of the bolt and remove the excess length.  The final assembly is shown below.
 

After this piece is blackened after the rest of the "ironwork" is added to the yard, a drop of CA will keep the retaining ring from slipping off.  The picture also shows the first of the other yard bands added.
 
 
Ed

I’ve completed planking the forecastle and main decks. Now I’m lining the inside walls of the bulwarks with pre-painted second planking.
 
A heap of spring clips hold everything in place until it dries. 
 
I’m using Admiralty Paints red ochre. I love it. It goes on a real treat!

I’ve painted the inside of the hull black where possible, so it doesn’t show up later. 

I’ve given the hull a thorough sanding, and I’m quite happy with the result. 
The transom plate snapped in half a while ago, but I’ve found after gluing it in place, it all meets up rather well.

It took me off working on my Bismarck for a whole week . From the looks of the above replies it all seems to work OK.
 
Noted, Hamilton. I'll edit that in.
 
Thanks for the "Thanks" guys .
 
  Danny

Quick-Find Indexes to Build Logs from Kits
 
 
Up to 1500 May 2024.pdf1501-1750 May 2024.pdf
 
1751-1800 May 2024.pdf1801-1850 May 2024.pdf
 
1851-1900 May 2024.pdf1901-Present May 2024.pdf
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The Links above take you to a number of "Quick Find" Indexes to the Build Logs for vessels made from Kits on this Site. They are alphabetically entered by Ship Name and Builder, as well as showing the Kit Manufacturer and whether the model has reached completion. NOTE - these Indexes do not contain those models that are Scratch-built with the exception of "Ships in Bottles", "Radio Control Models" and "Restorations".
 
The Indexes are grouped in the various Building Types we have on this site - Wooden Ships, Small Craft, Plastic Models, Card, Radio Control, etc so you can easily find the type of build you are looking for.
 
They are in PDF files, so you will need to have a PDF Reader installed in your computer to open them. These are available as free Downloads from various sources on-line, such as Adobe Reader:  https://get.adobe.com/uk/reader/
 
When you click on the Link to open your Index of choice you will be asked to Download the file. Select a Folder to download to (optional - the Default is your "Downloads" folder). Any time you open that file from this page it will overwrite the previous file, and paste the new one in.
 
The Indexes will be updated as new Build Logs are started, usually within a few days of them appearing, so it's advisable to update your Indexes periodically. You can view the downloaded Indexes from your computer without having to download them every time, but new ones may have been added since then.
 
In the Index Click on the blue Ship's Name for the Build Log you want to view and it will open the Log. If you want to return to this page there is a Link at the top of the Index marked "Return to Model Ship World" that will bring you back here.
 
To find a particular model quickly in the PDF Index - Click on the Edit Menu and select "Search", which will drop down a Dialog Window. You can type in the ship's name or the Builder (or even the Kit Manufacturer) and it will go to the first one in the list. Keep pressing the "Next" button to find the one you want and then Click on the blue Ship's Name to open the Build Log. This feature is particularly useful in the larger Indexes which have many pages. The pages have a Scroll Bar on the right which you can also use, or if your Mouse has a wheel you can turn that to also go down quickly. Pressing the "Page Down" key on your keyboard also goes down a page at a time.
 
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
 
 
 

Believe it or not - the small parts are actually easier than the big ones. Well, most of the time anyway .
 
Danny

Jan, if you can see them at all use a pencil to make them more visible while you're fitting the parts together. Then just rub out the pencil mark when you're done.
 
  Danny

That's easy to do on rounded pieces, I've done the same myself occasionally. What looks good on a computer doesn't always work in reality . Yep, looks good from a distance .
 
  Danny

Without trying to sound too critical Jan, if something needs that amount of pressure to make it fit that it cracks the hull there's some sort of problem that should have been fixed before gluing. If all things are right you should only need enough pressure to keep the joint tight until the glue dries. It looks to me like more "dry fitting" may have prevented this unfortunate incident.
 
I think the framing card is far too thin for a model of this size. Most kits use card of 1mm thickness for the framing, which is strong enough to support a small car (maybe I exaggerate a little ).
 
Another thing to watch out for, and I've had this problem when I first started using card, is to use as little glue as possible. Too much glue softens the paper which can cause it to buckle.
 
  Danny

The front hatches only have one hinge each, so it's larger than the others with 2 and 3 sections. This of course makes it a bit harder to construct :




 
The engine cover hatches are a more complex arrangement, with ventilation for engine cooling :


 
There are also some small details, like these "fairleads" (for want of a better word) that support the tow cable :

 
With all the hatches finished it's time to fit the track guards :



 
Also the air filters :

 
Danny

Thanks for the info Patrick.
 
I'm not sure about that yet. The kit gives you three options, one of them being articulated tracks (that explains the 5 pages of tracks ). I'll certainly give it a try.
 
Danny

The front hatches only have one hinge each, so it's larger than the others with 2 and 3 sections. This of course makes it a bit harder to construct :




 
The engine cover hatches are a more complex arrangement, with ventilation for engine cooling :


 
There are also some small details, like these "fairleads" (for want of a better word) that support the tow cable :

 
With all the hatches finished it's time to fit the track guards :



 
Also the air filters :

 
Danny

The front hatches only have one hinge each, so it's larger than the others with 2 and 3 sections. This of course makes it a bit harder to construct :




 
The engine cover hatches are a more complex arrangement, with ventilation for engine cooling :


 
There are also some small details, like these "fairleads" (for want of a better word) that support the tow cable :

 
With all the hatches finished it's time to fit the track guards :



 
Also the air filters :

 
Danny

The front hatches only have one hinge each, so it's larger than the others with 2 and 3 sections. This of course makes it a bit harder to construct :




 
The engine cover hatches are a more complex arrangement, with ventilation for engine cooling :


 
There are also some small details, like these "fairleads" (for want of a better word) that support the tow cable :

 
With all the hatches finished it's time to fit the track guards :



 
Also the air filters :

 
Danny

The front hatches only have one hinge each, so it's larger than the others with 2 and 3 sections. This of course makes it a bit harder to construct :




 
The engine cover hatches are a more complex arrangement, with ventilation for engine cooling :


 
There are also some small details, like these "fairleads" (for want of a better word) that support the tow cable :

 
With all the hatches finished it's time to fit the track guards :



 
Also the air filters :

 
Danny