Dan Vadas

Thanks Druxey, actually it was quite easy. The hardest parts were shaping the molding around the end return and the small notch above the rudder hinge. Cutting the bevel only took one go (I must be getting better at doing things like that "by eye" ).
 
Quarter Badge Stools and Munions
 
This looked like being quite a challenge, but thanks to the instructions and tips in TFFM they haven't been too difficult so far (I haven't got to the Carving part yet though   ). I'm only fitting a Badge to the Port side.
 
The first pieces to be made, which the success of the rest depend on, are the Upper and Lower Stools. These took some careful measuring and marking out to get the right angles. In fact, I had a failure with the lower stool - I didn't have enough angle from the vertical (12 degrees) the first time I glued it in and had to get the Isopropyl out and have a second go. No biggie .
 
I took the shape of the stools straight from the drawing in TFFM and cut two identical pieces. These need slightly different bevels on their inboard edges to keep the stools horizontal athwartships. Here is one stool ready for gluing in, the molding on the edge has already been scraped in :
 

 
To assist in gluing them to the correct angle I used masking tape :
 

 
The upper stool is quite a bit trickier to make than the lower one. It consists of three parts with a "bell" shaped piece in the middle. To make the centre piece I first cut out the lower portion from some thick stock, sanded the outer face to conform with the lower stool, then scraped the molding, and finally sanded the outer portion to shape on the disc sander :
 

 

 

 
The joints are cut at a 45 degree angle. I glued the three pieces together before bevelling the assembly :
 

 
To ensure both stools were perfectly parallel I used a piece of scrap with two bevels sanded into it as a spacer. The 2nd pic shows the spacer in use, but was only my 1st attempt before I realised I'd got the angle wrong :
 

 

 
Take two, after I got the angles right :
 

 
Last step to this stage, I've fitted the four Munions - more tricky angles, all done on the disc sander. The rough bit of cutting into the Sheer Strake above the bell will be covered by the Upper Finishing later on :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks Druxey, actually it was quite easy. The hardest parts were shaping the molding around the end return and the small notch above the rudder hinge. Cutting the bevel only took one go (I must be getting better at doing things like that "by eye" ).
 
Quarter Badge Stools and Munions
 
This looked like being quite a challenge, but thanks to the instructions and tips in TFFM they haven't been too difficult so far (I haven't got to the Carving part yet though   ). I'm only fitting a Badge to the Port side.
 
The first pieces to be made, which the success of the rest depend on, are the Upper and Lower Stools. These took some careful measuring and marking out to get the right angles. In fact, I had a failure with the lower stool - I didn't have enough angle from the vertical (12 degrees) the first time I glued it in and had to get the Isopropyl out and have a second go. No biggie .
 
I took the shape of the stools straight from the drawing in TFFM and cut two identical pieces. These need slightly different bevels on their inboard edges to keep the stools horizontal athwartships. Here is one stool ready for gluing in, the molding on the edge has already been scraped in :
 

 
To assist in gluing them to the correct angle I used masking tape :
 

 
The upper stool is quite a bit trickier to make than the lower one. It consists of three parts with a "bell" shaped piece in the middle. To make the centre piece I first cut out the lower portion from some thick stock, sanded the outer face to conform with the lower stool, then scraped the molding, and finally sanded the outer portion to shape on the disc sander :
 

 

 

 
The joints are cut at a 45 degree angle. I glued the three pieces together before bevelling the assembly :
 

 
To ensure both stools were perfectly parallel I used a piece of scrap with two bevels sanded into it as a spacer. The 2nd pic shows the spacer in use, but was only my 1st attempt before I realised I'd got the angle wrong :
 

 

 
Take two, after I got the angles right :
 

 
Last step to this stage, I've fitted the four Munions - more tricky angles, all done on the disc sander. The rough bit of cutting into the Sheer Strake above the bell will be covered by the Upper Finishing later on :
 

 
  Danny

Nice work on both types of cleat Grant . Your method of making the brass ones looks a bit easier than the one I used on my Norfolk Sloop - I cut and filed them from 1mm thick brass strip :
 

 

 
BTW - did you use English Box for the wooden cleats or Castello? The English is probably twice as close-grained and can be cut and shaped to TINY sizes without falling apart .
 
  Danny

Nice work on both types of cleat Grant . Your method of making the brass ones looks a bit easier than the one I used on my Norfolk Sloop - I cut and filed them from 1mm thick brass strip :
 

 

 
BTW - did you use English Box for the wooden cleats or Castello? The English is probably twice as close-grained and can be cut and shaped to TINY sizes without falling apart .
 
  Danny

First, a pic from BEFORE :
 

 
Some progress pics of the hatch coamings and deck furniture. I re-made all the coamings from new stock. I'll fit some aftermarket wooden Gratings to several of the hatches later on (naturally, the local Hobby Shop doesn't carry them - they mostly do all R/C stuff) :
 

 

 

 

 

 
Continued in next Post

Gallows Crosspiece
 
I've made and fitted the Gallows Crosspiece. This is used, not as a Gallows (they used a Yardarm for that ), but as the aft support for the Ship's Boat and spare spars etc. This pic was taken before a finish was applied.
 
I'm at a bit of a loss to see how the fore end of the boat and spars is supported. There is nothing in TFFM that I can find which is used as a fore support . Any suggestions?
 

 
I've also fitted the two half-curved entry steps to the waist which I'd made before I went on holidays.
 

 
A couple of progress pics of the decks. I've applied Minwax Wipe-on Poly to all the areas that I hadn't finished beforehand.
 

 

 
  Danny

All good - I'm away on holidays at the moment - doing a side project Restoring and Finishing a very rough Del Prado Victory.
 
Normal service will resume next week .
 
  Danny

Frames all Fitted
 
Work continues on fitting the rest of the Square Frames. I fit about 8 frames from each end at a time and Fair the insides to make access easier :
 

 

 

 
The Deadflat Frames - Station 0 - are made by joining three frames together with spacers :
 

 
An overall view of all the frames fitted to the keel. The Gunport Sills were all cut in and fitted as I did each section of framing :
 

Thank you to all the guys who hit the "Like" button for my last post .
 
Forecastle Timberheads
 
I've marked and drilled the slots for the Timberheads, and also made and dry-fitted 8 more of them to check if the angles were going to need changing yet. Fortunately all the Forecastle ones are straight, so I can make 8 more before I have to adjust my jig. The bad news is that all the quarterdeck ones will need to be cut on at least four different angles - it could have been worse .
 

 

 

 
  Danny

No worries Elmer - plenty more where that came from .
 
I've finished fitting all the Planksheers. The port quarterdeck one is completely finished, others are in various stages.
 

 

 
You can clearly see the two-piece construction on the forecastle ones. This is necessary (even on the real ship) as it is impossible to fit the planksheer over the timberheads owing to the changing angles of the latter.
 
Don't forget, I'm "cheating" here - I'm not making the timberheads as part of the top timbers. I find it much easier to cut the moldings into their tops on the bench rather than on the ship   .
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you, and you're most welcome Mark, Remco, Christian, Grant, Jeff, Maury and Neal .
 
Forecastle Planksheers
 
The Planksheers for the Forecastle and Quarterdeck need to be fitted before I can continue with the Timberheads.
 
For the quarterdeck I could soak and laterally bend the four required as they only have a shallow bend. Here's the first one fitted - there is a smaller piece still to be fitted on the inboard side :
 

 
The four on the forecastle are a bit trickier. I cut these from wide stock. Fitting the forward one around the Knightheads was quite a task - I had one reject, and used at least 30 "dry fits" on each before I was happy with the result :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Yeah Greg - although as I mentioned before they are all different .
 
Maury - I'm using the Byrnes Saw instead of the Mill.
 
Using the Timberhead Jig
 
Before the questions are asked about how I use the Timberhead Jig - here's how.
 
1. I file the two inboard and outboard tapers using the wide slot :
 

 

 
2. I transfer the piece to the narrow slot and file the fore and aft tapers :
 

 

 
3. I cut the shoulders for the moldings using a sharp flat Xacto chisel :
 

 
4. The shoulders are rounded off with a needle file :
 

 
5. Using the jig I cut the top of the lower step all around on the Byrnes table saw :
 

 
6. I cut the piece to length :
 

 
7. Using the chisel I cut the lower step to size :
 

 
8. Finally I round off the corners of the step to fit the oval hole cut through the planksheer :
 

 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny

That's about the only way I can see it working too John.
 
Thanks for the comment Grant .
 
I'm going back through Volume 2 to make sure I haven't forgotten anything - I skipped a few steps every now and then as I thought it easier or better to do some things "out of sequence".
 
I've made and fitted the Upper Capstan Pawls, which are the same as those for the Lower Capstan detailed earlier in the build.
 

 
  Danny

Thank you Aussie and John .
 
Richard, I'm not great at making Scrapers either - for me it's a matter of trial and error before I achieve anything that looks reasonably like the right shape .
 
I use a flat Xacto blade with a heavy-duty handle. First I anneal the steel by holding over a gas flame until red hot, and allow to cool without quenching. This softens the steel sufficiently to allow a file to work.
 
Then I cut a "negative" of the required shape using a thin cutting disc in my Dremel, finishing off with needle files. I angle one side of the cuts to sharpen them - they work best if you pull from the flat side. Some sections of the profile aren't sharpened but rather rounded off to avoid cutting into the timber. These act as guides to follow the edge of the timber or stop the cut at the required depth.
 
Finally I re-heat the blade and harden it by quenching in oil to cool it quickly.
 
Another tip - I cut the molding into a wider piece of stock first, then trim it to width on my Byrnes saw. This allows me to hold the otherwise very thin piece firmly without it wanting to wander all over the place.
 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you Aussie and John .
 
Richard, I'm not great at making Scrapers either - for me it's a matter of trial and error before I achieve anything that looks reasonably like the right shape .
 
I use a flat Xacto blade with a heavy-duty handle. First I anneal the steel by holding over a gas flame until red hot, and allow to cool without quenching. This softens the steel sufficiently to allow a file to work.
 
Then I cut a "negative" of the required shape using a thin cutting disc in my Dremel, finishing off with needle files. I angle one side of the cuts to sharpen them - they work best if you pull from the flat side. Some sections of the profile aren't sharpened but rather rounded off to avoid cutting into the timber. These act as guides to follow the edge of the timber or stop the cut at the required depth.
 
Finally I re-heat the blade and harden it by quenching in oil to cool it quickly.
 
Another tip - I cut the molding into a wider piece of stock first, then trim it to width on my Byrnes saw. This allows me to hold the otherwise very thin piece firmly without it wanting to wander all over the place.
 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny

That's about the only way I can see it working too John.
 
Thanks for the comment Grant .
 
I'm going back through Volume 2 to make sure I haven't forgotten anything - I skipped a few steps every now and then as I thought it easier or better to do some things "out of sequence".
 
I've made and fitted the Upper Capstan Pawls, which are the same as those for the Lower Capstan detailed earlier in the build.
 

 
  Danny

Thank you Aussie and John .
 
Richard, I'm not great at making Scrapers either - for me it's a matter of trial and error before I achieve anything that looks reasonably like the right shape .
 
I use a flat Xacto blade with a heavy-duty handle. First I anneal the steel by holding over a gas flame until red hot, and allow to cool without quenching. This softens the steel sufficiently to allow a file to work.
 
Then I cut a "negative" of the required shape using a thin cutting disc in my Dremel, finishing off with needle files. I angle one side of the cuts to sharpen them - they work best if you pull from the flat side. Some sections of the profile aren't sharpened but rather rounded off to avoid cutting into the timber. These act as guides to follow the edge of the timber or stop the cut at the required depth.
 
Finally I re-heat the blade and harden it by quenching in oil to cool it quickly.
 
Another tip - I cut the molding into a wider piece of stock first, then trim it to width on my Byrnes saw. This allows me to hold the otherwise very thin piece firmly without it wanting to wander all over the place.
 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny

Nice work on both types of cleat Grant . Your method of making the brass ones looks a bit easier than the one I used on my Norfolk Sloop - I cut and filed them from 1mm thick brass strip :
 

 

 
BTW - did you use English Box for the wooden cleats or Castello? The English is probably twice as close-grained and can be cut and shaped to TINY sizes without falling apart .
 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny