Dan Vadas

Thanks once again John .
 
The rudder is "Bearded" on it's inner edge to allow it to turn without binding. I marked out the limits of the bearding and sanded the angles in with a cork block and sanding stick :
 


 
  Danny

Hi Erik,
 
Looking good so far .
 
Are you cutting your treenails into small lengths and then inserting each one? That's how it looks to me anyway. I use the full length I've drawn and snip it off flush with small sharp side-cutters and then move on to the next one (brushing a tiny amount of PVA on before inserting the "nail"). No waste, and it works a LOT quicker .
 
It also helps if you use a drill that's slightly larger than the treenail - the glue fills the gap and it's not noticeable at all.
 
  Danny

@ Frank ,
Are you really mean that this is the fun part????
I have to do it , otherwise I just let it…..
The rope from Morope looks good.
I'm not working with it because it is for Mobbsie
 
@ Aldo,
 
Thank you 
 
@ 
 
 
Keith,
 
The shrouds are staying the colour that they have,
All the rope is the same colour and I don't do a thing with it….
 
When I'm working on the masts or rigging, I can put my gun lids up.
No problem with my arms…...
When I'm finished I put them down again.
Question answerd?
 

Your position is well stated Sjors.  There are decisions to be made on each and every build and they need to be made in your heart as well as your head.  I believe each of us knows the strong and weak points of our current project and there is not one of us not trying to improve and do our absolute best given not only our own limitations but also those imposed by the materials we have to work with.
 
Carry on my friend.

Garward,
 
Thank you for your comment.
I know that it is not the way as it should be.
There are more things that are not accurate on The Mirage.
Maybe that's why the the ship is named Le Mirage or Fantom.
I'm not going to change the chainplate.
If I remove it, I will damage more then I want.
And besides, the ropes will then run in front of the canons.
 
The drawings from Corel are terrible.  No measurements at all.
You have to look very carefully where everything has to go, by looking how it should be done according to that particular picture.
My ship is not a museum piece but a hobby!
For me, she doesn't have to be historically accurate, because may she didn't even exists.
I'll just do it the way I think is right according to the pictures in the plans.
And I like it how she looks at the moment.
 
Again, thanks for your comment but I will leave it this way.
 
 

 

No comment anymore tonight…...
 

Hi Grant,
Nice Tumbler - it seems to do the job very well indeed.
 
 
Post it in "Wooden Tips and Tricks" - that way it won't get "lost" in your Build Log.
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
Big news - I'm finally feeling human again!!!  And that means - sawdust!!!!!!!      
 
After almost three weeks of being able to do nothing and feeling like s&@%, my body seemed to flick a switch sometime yesterday and today I'm feeling almost normal - dangerously so!
 
So, I'd been thinking about what's next in terms of preparing the yards and decided it would be a good idea to make a small jig to hold the yards while I was working on them.  I can't take credit for the original idea as I found it in my Warrior practicum books.  It showed a picture of one, from which I made my own design.
 
It's pretty basic really.  It consists of a base and a pair of uprights, with two "arms" for supporting the yard.  The base has a series of holes to allow the width of the uprights to be adjusted.  The uprights have a dowel glued into the bottom end for locating in the base holes.  The "arms" are rebated into the uprights and have a slot cut into them to take the yards.  The "arms" are also covered with some velvet drawer liner to protect the yard paintwork while in the jig.  I also made a dummy mast that attaches in the same way as the uprights.
 
The best part was, I got play with a bunch of my toys, er, I mean tools.......including Byrnes Saw, Lathe and Mill - not so much because they were needed - more because I could.
 
Here's a pic of the parts pre-assembly:
 

 
 
One question I do have though is regards to milling.  I'm hoping some of you experts can set me straight on this.  I get confused about direction of cut and/or feed.  I've read about the difference between "normal" cutting and "climb" cutting, but can't get it into my head in a way that makes sense.  Here is a picture of the set-up for how I cut the slots in the "arms" using an end mill.
 

 
It should be clear from the photo the direction of feed/cut that I used.  My question then is, is this the "right" way to have cut, or is this a "climb" cut (and why)?
 
Okay, so here's the assembled jig, complete with yard in place.
 

 
And here it is back on the modelling desk.  It holds the yard at a very convenient height for attaching all those fiddly bits.
 

 
Having been inspired by a recent thread by Janos, I've decided that I'm going to have a go at making some blocks tomorrow.  Along with that, I'll be making a sanding tumbler following Janos's simple but clever design.  I'll post more pics when that is complete.
 
 

Thank you Pat, Mark and Crackers.
 
 
Compared to the bar pins, quite an easy one - the Capstan Pawls. These prevent the capstan from turning back, they were very simple things that were pushed into place with the foot of the sailor nearest to them. Later ships had more complex arrangements.
 
These were made from a piece of 1/16" square brass, filed down to 1/32" for most of their length - they step up to full height on the end that locks into the capstan whelps. They are held in place with a 3/4" bolt. Note how one pawl locks into place whilst the other is almost halfway across a whelp - this gave them two bites with a smaller rotation between.
 
I've also made the two for the upper capstan with these.
 


 
That concludes the work on the capstans for now - all that's left is to fit them, which I'll do after I've placed the Guns in this area (I'm still waiting on the barrels before I can start on them).
 
Next job will be the Rudder and associated works.
 
  Danny

Thank you Pat, Mark and Crackers.
 
 
Compared to the bar pins, quite an easy one - the Capstan Pawls. These prevent the capstan from turning back, they were very simple things that were pushed into place with the foot of the sailor nearest to them. Later ships had more complex arrangements.
 
These were made from a piece of 1/16" square brass, filed down to 1/32" for most of their length - they step up to full height on the end that locks into the capstan whelps. They are held in place with a 3/4" bolt. Note how one pawl locks into place whilst the other is almost halfway across a whelp - this gave them two bites with a smaller rotation between.
 
I've also made the two for the upper capstan with these.
 


 
That concludes the work on the capstans for now - all that's left is to fit them, which I'll do after I've placed the Guns in this area (I'm still waiting on the barrels before I can start on them).
 
Next job will be the Rudder and associated works.
 
  Danny

Thank you Pat, Mark and Crackers.
 
 
Compared to the bar pins, quite an easy one - the Capstan Pawls. These prevent the capstan from turning back, they were very simple things that were pushed into place with the foot of the sailor nearest to them. Later ships had more complex arrangements.
 
These were made from a piece of 1/16" square brass, filed down to 1/32" for most of their length - they step up to full height on the end that locks into the capstan whelps. They are held in place with a 3/4" bolt. Note how one pawl locks into place whilst the other is almost halfway across a whelp - this gave them two bites with a smaller rotation between.
 
I've also made the two for the upper capstan with these.
 


 
That concludes the work on the capstans for now - all that's left is to fit them, which I'll do after I've placed the Guns in this area (I'm still waiting on the barrels before I can start on them).
 
Next job will be the Rudder and associated works.
 
  Danny

Preparations
 
Before any work commenced on the model there were some other things to build.
 
Using the directions in TFFM I constructed a Building Board :
 

 
I added Supports for the Keel, fore and aft, from clear Acrylic (Perspex) :
 

 
I also made two Squaring Jigs for the Cant Frames and one for the Square Frames :
 
  
 
I made a Jig to measure up from the Baseboard that can be used inside the Hull :
 

 
The Baseboard was marked for the Plan View using a tracing of the Mylar Plan :
 

 
The Frame Profiles were printed from the Admiralty Models CD onto A4 size "sticky-backed" Labelling Paper :
 

OK, I took Druxey's challenge after all - here's a prototype REPRESENTATION of a Bar Pin and "Chain" which took me about half an hour to make. I used 0.2mm (blackened) copper wire wrapped around a 0.25mm drill bit for the "chain", and made two "eyebolts" from the same wire :
 


 
And here's an approximation of how it looks by the naked eye :
 

 
I'm going to do another one using a simplified method (no actual Pin and Bolt, just one curled wire). If I can get it down to 5 minutes each and they look OK I'll do all 15. Stay tuned .
 
  Danny

Thank you Pat, Mark and Crackers.
 
 
Compared to the bar pins, quite an easy one - the Capstan Pawls. These prevent the capstan from turning back, they were very simple things that were pushed into place with the foot of the sailor nearest to them. Later ships had more complex arrangements.
 
These were made from a piece of 1/16" square brass, filed down to 1/32" for most of their length - they step up to full height on the end that locks into the capstan whelps. They are held in place with a 3/4" bolt. Note how one pawl locks into place whilst the other is almost halfway across a whelp - this gave them two bites with a smaller rotation between.
 
I've also made the two for the upper capstan with these.
 


 
That concludes the work on the capstans for now - all that's left is to fit them, which I'll do after I've placed the Guns in this area (I'm still waiting on the barrels before I can start on them).
 
Next job will be the Rudder and associated works.
 
  Danny

Thank you Pat, Mark and Crackers.
 
 
Compared to the bar pins, quite an easy one - the Capstan Pawls. These prevent the capstan from turning back, they were very simple things that were pushed into place with the foot of the sailor nearest to them. Later ships had more complex arrangements.
 
These were made from a piece of 1/16" square brass, filed down to 1/32" for most of their length - they step up to full height on the end that locks into the capstan whelps. They are held in place with a 3/4" bolt. Note how one pawl locks into place whilst the other is almost halfway across a whelp - this gave them two bites with a smaller rotation between.
 
I've also made the two for the upper capstan with these.
 


 
That concludes the work on the capstans for now - all that's left is to fit them, which I'll do after I've placed the Guns in this area (I'm still waiting on the barrels before I can start on them).
 
Next job will be the Rudder and associated works.
 
  Danny

Thanks Mark, John, Joe, lamarvalley (you got a name?   ), Grant and Remco.
 
 
No need for a remake Remco, just drill a few more holes in the ones you've already made .
 
Here's the final results - they look pretty realistic in real life. One tip - Birchwood Casey Brass Black doesn't work on copper (I should have remembered this). It turns black all right, but it flakes off straight away leaving a mess behind   . I'll have to get some Liver of Sulphur for future work with copper :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you John and Brian.
 
Here's #2 - about 10 minutes worth, including blackening. It's the one on the left in pic 4 and looks even better than #1, so I'm going ahead with all 15. Am I going crazy ??? :D  :
 




 
  Danny

Thank you John and Brian.
 
Here's #2 - about 10 minutes worth, including blackening. It's the one on the left in pic 4 and looks even better than #1, so I'm going ahead with all 15. Am I going crazy ??? :D  :
 




 
  Danny

OK, I took Druxey's challenge after all - here's a prototype REPRESENTATION of a Bar Pin and "Chain" which took me about half an hour to make. I used 0.2mm (blackened) copper wire wrapped around a 0.25mm drill bit for the "chain", and made two "eyebolts" from the same wire :
 


 
And here's an approximation of how it looks by the naked eye :
 

 
I'm going to do another one using a simplified method (no actual Pin and Bolt, just one curled wire). If I can get it down to 5 minutes each and they look OK I'll do all 15. Stay tuned .
 
  Danny

Andy - that's ANOTHER of life's great simple pleasures, try it one day . I was actually referring to the malt you sprinkle on ice cream (or don't you do that in the States?) - also yummy, especially on chocolate ice cream.
 
  Danny

OK, I took Druxey's challenge after all - here's a prototype REPRESENTATION of a Bar Pin and "Chain" which took me about half an hour to make. I used 0.2mm (blackened) copper wire wrapped around a 0.25mm drill bit for the "chain", and made two "eyebolts" from the same wire :
 


 
And here's an approximation of how it looks by the naked eye :
 

 
I'm going to do another one using a simplified method (no actual Pin and Bolt, just one curled wire). If I can get it down to 5 minutes each and they look OK I'll do all 15. Stay tuned .
 
  Danny

Thank you very much John, Janos, Doris, Amfibius, and Adeline - I'm glad you all appreciate the effort gone into this piece. It's been a heap of fun building it .
 
Almost finished with the Capstans - I've fitted all the bolts. There are 10 brass ones (they should be iron, but I've used brass so they can be seen) in each reinforcing ring, as well as the 0.35mm holes for the bar retaining pins. The pics with the sidecutters give you an idea of how small these "bolts" are - the last one to be fitted is lying on top of the drumhead in one of the pics.
 
I've used blackened brass "bolts" for the remainder.
 
 





 
  Danny

The outboard planking
 
 
The outboard planking of Caroline manufacture was performed in three major sections with looooong breaks in between.
During the breaks I made for Caroline equipment parts, and finished the 74 gun ship, by Boudriot M 1:50. 
(Current location: Deutsches Museum, Munich)
Hach yes, the good old days .... I ääähmm….hehe…..digress.
 
 
Caroline without Hull planks
 
 

 
The course of wale mark on the hull; First wale install; fill the gap until the second wale with planks; second wale install - it is important to note that no gaps occur -! Some time needs (not on wale) reground the planks.
After the Planks are mounted above the wales, let´s go for planking the hull.
 
 
 
 

 

 
Turn the hull and care for stability.
From the keel starting with the "infamous" Garboard-strake - lay the planks. So that the planks also run evenly on both sides of the Keel, i install three to four measured lath.
So that the planks are fairly evenly wide, it is recommended that a "settlement" on the hull to bring. The so-called settlement is relatively easy to produce.
It divides the body lengthwise into three parts, after then you will narrow ca3 mm wide strips of paper here.
The distance between the keel and the lowest Wale - lower edge on the main bulkhead is measured.
The distance is measured in M 1: 50 (near 1:48) divided into 4 mm intervals.
4mm at 1:50 it is a plank width of 20 cm, which is an acceptable value for this small ship.
The paper strip at the main you can now stick/glue to the blank hull.
Measure the strip to the other identified third positions.
Divide the length by the number of strips / planks made at the main. Assign this value (eg 2.4) of the paper. The paper strip at the rear is longer, which results from the shape of the vessel and the amount of dead wood at the stern, about that later
It is helpful if all 4-6 strakes attach a measured lath, I use therefor pearwood 4x4mm. So you can see, if the calculated value differs from the Plank course.
The planks are then applied and correspond to the position associated works.
Now it shows the incredible advantage, the solidly built body.
It can be mounted on the hull all kinds of positioning devices, needles, screws, nails, clamps, etc. Nothing can harm the body
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
I think you understand are strakes from bones significantly more stable than wood moldings.
The individual planks are made - by the enforced maximum length of 18 cm - it is advisable to equalize the lengths of the scale bars. This means that the planks on the model no longer than 12 - should be 16 cm! Thus, the strakes seated properly, i have a pear help strip created. Thus, the transitions remain in the strake and you can not get a kink in the strake (and also not in the optics too * lol *)
 

 
 
The planks taper transitions forward. Note: a maximum of 1/2 the width.
Make the bends goes like this: Finished planks to the "straight" faces firmly glue. The Parts at the bow, where the planks are naturally bent, have to be cooked ... cook hot is here announced. (About 1 hour)
Then can be fixed to the hull and dry the planks. (About 2 hours) the planks are then bent to retain their shape and duration can be glued.   Is quite easy…… isnt??
 
     
 
 
This method also work´s with wooden planks (fruit woods), however, since it is sufficient if the planks 5 - cook 8 minutes, depending on thickness. (Not for use in walnut and oak, as well as all soft woods!)
Into Walnut toxins are washed out and the tannic acid in the oak, which leads to unsightly discoloration of the individual planks / strips dissolve.
Walnut and oak are immersed in water, slightly soft and can fit in a wet condition on the fuselage and secure. The same procedure due by soft wood ( pine, birch, maple, etc.) Once the strips are dry, they retain their shape and can easily be glued firmly. Iron over a round body (for colleagues who cant wait)
The soaking in ammonia also work, you should just do it outdoors and the wood its natural color changed and that overall, not just on the surface.

Back to the bone.

The previously install wale on the bow, were not curved like the planks, but cut into shape!! From 3mm material thickness it just takes too long until the bones are "soft" boiled.
 
   
In the area of ​​dead wood on the stern section the strakes is naturally longer. There inserted strakes are attached. You can find these again are using the settlement. Using the slats can be the additional strakes exactly Mark (on the hull).. We remind that the boards should not be wider than 4 mm. If now the stern individual courses such as 7mm wide would you go as far back again to the width of 4mm. Point mark!
The following plank is also created. It is applied without pressure on the hull! The resulting wedge is extended and also marked out. If the wedge is too wide, the same operation is repeated as long as until the gap is closed.
The inserted planks must not be smaller than 2 mm. The tapered planks to the insertion point either.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
NOTE!! THERE IS NO TOP WOOD ENDS IN SHIPBUILDING. NOWHERE ON SHIP

In this way, the surface is widened without the plank profile is disturbed.
In the bow, the procedure reversed. This is called "lost programs".
After the Mark of the planks, install them, where the two planks together max. 4mm wide are in position and attach a plank. The 4 mm are not fixed dimension, it can also for example have 2.8 mm! The decisive factor is that the planks at the end (rabbet in the stem) should not be THINNER THAN 2 mm WIDE AND ALSO NOT as the adjacent one.
THIS is a homogeneous real image of a ship's planking.
 
Three years later, the Caroline is planked      ......... wasindeedtimesaysmyadmiralty!    
 
 
   
 

 
 
 
 
 
Cup of Coffee? :D
 
 
 
 
This is the Upper shipyard construction supervisor
 
 
 
 

 
 

Bone model of HMY 1749 Caroline M 1: 50

    I asked for a little patience so I can write something to the building report chronologically.

    Now that I have already reported in other forums  Caroline I would like to read the report and hopefully entertaining to bring on  PC

    Let's start with the planning.

   In the year  1988, While visiting the "Hestorisch Sheep ride Museeum" in Amsterdam, I see a very strange looking white model held in a French frigate. The tiny carvings fascinate me.
    My wife: OOOOOH ... so one I would also like to have! I: you shall have .....

    In the following years! I collect everything that is there to have bone vessels and bone processing.

    For model prove only the leg bones of bovine animals. (Upper and lower leg, called tubes or bone marrow) as ideal, because the density and strength is optimal. All other ... Ribs, shoulder, skull, etc. are too porous and brittle.

    The preparation of the bone.

    For the construction of Caroline to start about 400 tubes are required! This massive amount you will not get the butcher of his confidence but only at the slaughterhouse.
    A tube is [without joints] about 160 - 180 mm long. Weight 200g
    The tubes must be boiled at high temperatures to remove the marrow and cook again. I have poured over the cooking time about 500l best Mark soup down the sink ..
    Then with muuuch Cleaningsalt 3 - 5 times through the dishwasher [highest rinsing] and then let dry. (About 3 years!)
    The first drying cycle was completed on the balcony (the bone Always nice hanging in direct sunlight).

    My neighbors loved it ...... Except for one!!!

    Just imagine the following situation.
    My wife was in the hot phase of the bonecooking in court on govermenthighschool. The City "Hof" is about 200 kilometers from Augsburg (whre we live). She stayed there during the week from Monday to Friday. The course lasted 3 years and in that time my wife wasnt seen for many neighbors anymore. I was at this time full-time home with three little children. (whatisayhiswifeisrunnawaynowonderlookthisman) were still the nicest rumors.
    Suddenly my balcony was full of bone depends on a cord strung out to dry

    One day, it rings the doorbell ........ I open and behold, two "Chipmunks" are coming up. I quote again: Good day how are you, (well, thank you), we were just in the area can we comein ...... ?? (Clear, like .. please enter) -.  my daughters hunting the cat and run the state power almost overboard --- your children are so happy ...canwepleasetalktoyourwife? (No that is prevented) one of the two in backgrond mutters "that i belive" The first again: we want now, please talk with your wife. (I said it is prevented)
    Meanwhile, we all go to the kitchen. From my kitchen is access to the balcony and there one can see the tremendous amount of bone hanging from a beam.
    Both chipmunks pale and call me an ultimativ to say where´s my wife!!
    I have tell the men from the police to the residence of my wife and the reason could be solved without the most accurate information that can be called my wife, perhaps as a cow but is unlikely to achieve this amount of bone in a single body.
    The two left my apartment rather monosyllabic

    The dried and assorted bones are now halved lengthwise on a bandsaw.
(My boss wanted to know where my wife is ).

    These shells can now, as required in planks, 4 square timbers or other basic blanks are processed.

    This was just the beginning.


    Soon we will start with the foundation
 


    Until then ....... Freeguard leave .....
 
 
greetings
 
Robert

Yes David, she is the Skaubryn.
 
My family migrated from Germany to Australia in her on her last completed voyage in 1957 when I was four years old. She caught fire and sank in the Indian Ocean on the following voyage.
 
Skaubryn
 
  Danny