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HMS Kingfisher by Erik Nyren - 1:40 Swan Class Plank on Frame Lauck Street Shipyards

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What to say about this high end kit.....

They do not come any better or then again, more expencive.

Building this kit makes one wonder why scratch has not been an option. Then again without building this kit, scratch would not have been an option for me........just saying   :pirate41:


Rather than trying to rebuild my buildlog trying to recooperate any disscussions on the way I will repost as many pictures as I can and hopfully questions will follow bringing this log along with others of the same kit to life.


Here we go. :722972270:


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I have a real har time to find a sensible order to the pics of my Kingfisher build.


Alas the pictures will be posted in as good as order as I can find them. I hope this will not be to confusing, anyway questions and comments are always wellcome :piratetongueor4:  (oh I do love theese little emicons)


The biggest issue I have had during the build is no doubt the hawsetimbers. theese are essential for the shape of the bow of the ship and of cource the placement of the boxings. Now I had to redo them several times before I got them anyway near a correct shape. I do expect more trouble comming from the fact that I have yet to master this most difficult step of odeling a ship. Swan class or other. 








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So this is what I´m up to theese days


I have tried a new method (for me that is) as theres a sertain pattern to the planking of this ship I figured I´d make my own template. I started out planking as usual but things started to go astray therefor I cut a paper template covering the side of the ship that had not yet been planked.

Using the pictures in the David Antscherl book I draw what was left and then I could cut out a template for each plank.

Then using the fantastic product Rubber cement the template is glued to the wood strips and the planks shaped. 






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Shaping the sheer plank became a challange I tried to follow the plankingpattern but theres a few deviations.

I shaped the sheer one step at a time as I wanted to avoid tapering away half of the hooked scarph joint which

I learned to to pretty well now. I dont think this is the ideal way to make a plank though.


Started to taper the plank up to the scharph, then I made the scarph and continued to shape the plank forward to

fit the top of the hull framework. This is why the pictures of making the scarph is a bit messy.


The scarph was done by making a diagonal 20mm cut, then gluing the two halfs together using rubber cement.

I marked out how the cut should be made and set my tablesaw at 1,5mm and started to chip away until I had a

9mm groove corresponding to the 9mm hook. thw 2mm missing was from cutting the tip of the joint to a 1,5mm hight.

Pics makes more sence :P


The last pic is a bit of dryfitting, I used a led pencil to have the joint stand out a little bit. One can also see that the plank below the sheer is narrowing. I'd rather have that strake narrowing and not the sheer strake


More to come







Edited by Erik Nyren
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HMS Kingfisher almost dressed,


It´s very interresting and fun to work with a planking pattern in contrast to simply laying the planks along as they



Next up are more ribbands on the other side of the ship, a LOT of sanding and about a trillion treenails.


A question for more experienced Swanclass builders.


The planks have different thickness making some of them portrude. Of cource the whales should do som but should 

the the rest be sanded down to a smooth but camferd surface or should theese "edges" be left intact? 


The last picture shows the edges I´m speaking of.





Edited by Erik Nyren
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Hi Erik,


You may find the following link to Bill Maxwell's completed Swan class build of assistance.  It has 247 high definition pictures taken during Bill's build of HMS Fly.




You will see that the edge between each of the planks forming the Stuff of the Topside is flush.   The sheer strake immediately above the Stuff of the Topside is proud to the plank below and above it, ie similar to the main wale.   This treatment appears consistent with the text of David Antscherl's TFFM, Sections 7.17, 7.19 and 7.20, and also consistent with the photo CD accompanying the kit, eg refer photos IMG3359, 3422 and 3432.


Hope this helps,


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Thanks Terry It sertainly helps. Great link, now why did I not think of looking at those cd pictures....


What I have done wrong here is I forgot to reduce the thickness of the "Stuff of the topside" as mentioned in the instructions and I imagine TFFM.


To fix it I will sand the hull smooth and add a second planking on the Sheer strake to make it portrude from the rest of the hull as it´s suppose to.


Sanding and making treenails will occupy my buildingtime in the next few weeks, we will see what that does to my mental health  :cheers:

Im considering starting a little side project like ....... my Jotika HMS Victory kit ??




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don't reduce your work. She is looking really good. I will be more than happy if I can reach nearly your level for my build.


Thanks AP for kind words and you are quite right, I will refrain from such comments for the remainder of the log as it does sound a bit bad and does not contribute to anything.


More to come



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Fixing the problem of forgetting to reduce thickness of the "stuff of the topside" I was having a lot of fun and became so eager to finish the planking that I became carless in reading up on the instructions.


The "stuff of the topside should be 0.072" down by the Black strake and are thinned out as the planking rises and ends up beeing 0.042" at the point that the Sheer strake is placed. 

The Sheer Strake beeing 0.062" thick should protrude 0.02" from the hull planking. Having not reduced the thickness of the planking my Sheer Srake instead had a recess of about the same.


To fix this I sanded down the hull to a smooth surface and in doing so reducing the thickness of the "stuff of the topside.

I then went on and made a 0.02" (or there about) strip using a thickness sander.

From that strip I refitted the Sheer strake ontop of the old one, actually achieving a better flow of the strake than the original planking.

It still needs some sanding though


Now back to treenails


More to come



Edited by Erik Nyren
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