
ECK
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Everything posted by ECK
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If the hole are obscured by paint you can use a hand drill or needle to open it up and then just glue in an eyebolt.
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Thanks. My 15th build so learned a few tricks especially once I joined the form and saw the great wokr/tips from others. You may noticed that I splurged and bought pear blocks for a more realistic look. Since I started building with real looking blocks, I find the final product just looks better although not obvious until you get closer to the model.
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Far enough away. When I do real sanding I have a vacuum on pulling in the big dust or go outside. This filing does not spread far.
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Started on lower masts. First Dowel cut to length: Then taped off lower area to be carved Placed in vice and long side filed down 1 mm Next marked off upper area, rotated 90 degrees and filled upper area ( with one side flat keeps things straight in vice) Kept rotating to finish then trimmed tip for cap
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Well hull basically done. Hammock netting will go in at the very end as I always bend/break them while I am doing the rigging. I also put some tackle on the carronades and fully rigged the 24 pounders (a real pain , fortunately only 2. Use 2.5 mm double and 2 mm single blocks). Here is Adder's smasher next to the maindeck ones on Indy And 24 pounder here compared to Sherbournes's main guns
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Thanks. I use Vallejo flat red followed by a coat of satin poly. It is the color Chris uses in his models.
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Long journey, incredible job! Hope you will enjoy your next project as much as I am.
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Work for the day done. Mainly adding belaying pins, various bolts, catheads, railing etc. Had not pun on the poly yet so some parts a bit dull
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- 66 replies
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Looks like you are almost done with your Indy odessy. Looking great.
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To hot to anything outside and as I'm in an empty nest, gives me something to do and I find it very relaxing except when those little pieces go flying off never to be found.
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Thanks. Outer bulwark glued in , inner tabs removed, sanded and deck glued in place. I soaked the forward inner bulwark and clamping overnight to mold into place before airbrushing
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After filling, sanding and painting for 3 cycles, hull looks pretty good to me And after removing the tape and dry fitting the rudder
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Messed up a bit and posted photos on the wrong build blog. Took Chris's advice and clamped upper bulwarks in place then pinned and glued first course of the second planking. Added a few filler pieces so something for the planks to bind. Also placed the stern post temporarily to get things aligned properly. Finished the second planking. Not the best I have ever done but those curves were a SOB. lines good for painting now. Also filled the stern post gaps with filler.
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Sorry, my bad. Sometimes the site is not the easiest to get to the correct place.
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First step is to glue the false keel. I temporarily attached the stern post to get the high correct. Also added some wood filler to fill the empty space and allow something to glue to planks. I followed Chris' advice and first clamped the upper bulwark in place (having soaked and bent into place and dried overnight). Subsequently glued and pinned the first plank line and also glued and clamped the bottom line of planks. The removed the upper works so not to mess up during the gluing and sanding.
- 143 replies
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OK, first planking done. Very deceptive due to the blunt bow and flat bottom. Harder to plank despite having done many many models. Fortunately, will try better with second planking and then of course filler and paint very forgiving. I do like the lines of the ship though.
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Will finish first planking this weekend but also having same issues. The bluff bow looks nice but actually harder to plank than more traditional bow point.
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Always welcome on the ride. Building the Indy will keep you busy for some time, took me 8 months.
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Spent the day sanding feathering the hull, adding the prow and clamping the wet bulwark into place to allow drying overnight. You may notice I clamped them backwards but quickly fixed the problem before they had a chance to dry. Never can have to many clamps
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