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Richard Dunn

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Everything posted by Richard Dunn

  1. Richard Dunn
    Yeah I did a test on cnc and it does not cut very cleanly, lots of fluff and tearing. I have in the past considered card models and it was once I got a job boat building and realised a technique call diagonal planking that 3d compound shapes could be done with cardboard.
  2. Richard Dunn
    Nice, but what I meant was can you show me the product, what it looks like as we may have it over here under another name. or are you saying you are using card and laminating to the thickness you need.
  3. Richard Dunn
    Can you show me some?
  4. Richard Dunn
    I would assume the tension is fine, only because I have only spent about 10 hours printing and it's a brand new machine, it's pretty tight . I am pretty sure if I tilted them and used a raft and supports it would come out fine but then the print takes 5 times longer at least to do, due to extra height and I lose all advantage to CNC Those windows on the plate only take 12 mins to print, If I used supports, 2-3 hours. The printer is still going to be used, worst case I would use it to make master models and then resin cast from it, resin casting is a GREAT option, resin casting its hard and more workable in my opinion. Cowl vents ,anchors are examples of what it would do well but the print time is counter productive if a bollard takes 4 hours to print in resin, I could make a master in that time manually and casting it takes only 2-3 hours to harden. I have to be honest, the reason I got a printer was due to the 1/200 Titanic addon kit by KA for the trumpeter kit, it is amazing and thought I could get that level of detail in my prints, there must be commercial versions of these printers that do higher res than us "normal" people. http://ka-models.co.kr/?product=1200-rms-titanic-dx-pack-for-trumpeter&ckattempt=1 I do have a filament printer as well and have never been happy with its results due to the layer effect and its not capable of the detail my resin printer is. That's MY printer which was cheap one, but It's put me off using it now. Re photos, that's fine
  5. Richard Dunn
    So this is the process I make the frames on CNC as well as the edge strip incorporating the rigols as per ship. this is very thin styrene to .13mm 9009 evergreen. I also want to point out the width of those frames across the narrow lower part is only .67mm wide! and cutter 1mm dia The tool here was trailed in ply and is why this failed as window stuck to it and could not be removed. The slot is for a key piece to locate the join as the edge is forced in. and although screwed you can see it looks good and works, if you can get it out of jig, hence aluminium in future.
  6. Richard Dunn
    With the styrene technique I cut the frames on the cnc and I also machine an aluminium tools which is nothing more than a 2mm ali plate with hole same as frame, i put the tool over the frame and bend in the upstand to the frame until its forced in and holds itself in, then just run polycement around the corner and then pop it out, done. i have to point out that I have 180 of those windows to assemble and its a tedious job, about 5-10 mins per window but the result is finer and crisper than printing and I can glue the frame onto the acrylic with thtin tamiya cement which does not ooze out onto glass due to capillary action so might just do it manually and keep printer for bollards, anchors and large stuff
  7. Richard Dunn
    air con is on at 24 degrees and yes same settings for both. Now I expect they will curl up and be useless anyway.
  8. Richard Dunn
    Well I can print but only one window in the middle of the build platform at a time, that tells me he calibration is off but as far as I can tell its not, so I have to decide, the whole point was too save time but I can make a window from styrene and assemble it faster than print. Also tried to print some .5mm bolt heads and round rivet heads,, no go as too small for res of screen... not sure how they make the commercial ones but not with one of these.
  9. Richard Dunn
    Lychee Same file in Chitubox
  10. Richard Dunn
    I have found something interesting. when I ran the ctb from lychee on the printer the slices on the display were not complete even though they were in Lychee and no holes where present. I switched to Chitubox and ran same file, it displayed on printer screen correctly and guess what! it printed properly to. Its curing in the uv now
  11. Richard Dunn
    Fast running out of patience with printing, when tests work well and prints fail despite the model being fine.
  12. Richard Dunn
    If I understand correctly that is caused by the longer exposure time of the 6 base layers, I might try reducing that as the recommended is 25-35 and I maxed it to 35, as long is it stays on the plate I might try 30 next, its not like there Is any weight in the part. Let me know if you need any help with hull.
  13. Richard Dunn
    Yeah Kevin I got the latest recommendations for the resin I use which is Phrozen aqua 4k grey and it had changed from the default resin profile, so after I updated it the result is the test above, that text is insane fine and its properly formed. am considering a harder resin but this resin is supposed to be the best for fine detail and yes you are spot on .3mm is the wall thickness
  14. Richard Dunn
    Dr PR does a single led create much heat? like if I make resin printed light fitting for them would it melt the resin?
  15. Richard Dunn
    These frames get glued onto 2mm clear so plenty of support and need to keep the back flat and smooth, that's why I chose to build on plate
  16. Richard Dunn
    I have done some tweaks to the exposure times and got a pretty descent print on the Phrozen test, tomorrow I will try some more windows. Not the best shot, Wife is getting a new macro lens next week so that will be good
  17. Richard Dunn
    OK so I have done a test and I am underexposed quite a bit
  18. Richard Dunn
    I would like to know what people think of these main windows, compared to photo, keep in mind there are 180 of these to make and they are only 11 x 16mm Getting some collapse of the vertical walls, I don't want to go any thicker though so might need to play with resin settings,
  19. Richard Dunn
    This is giving me some things to think about... darn it I don't like thinking after I have finished work. The main thing is I need to design a system so I can bore the holes in the shell to allow it all to be hooked up and at the same time be able to change an LED bulb if it goes. the other thing to is I need to be able to dim the lights, not with a knob or anything but to the right level to match the ship. Just so you guys can see what the lighting is going to be and how insane actually am. So we have decklights on walls, flouro tubes under decks and halogen spotlights on funnel. Here we see 3 types Type 3 there is only 6 of on whole ship but the brightest by far (halogens). Type 2 are only over lifeboats and can be left as leds are by default Type 1 is the most common Type 4 is the flouros in mounts under decks, and yes all that framing is going in under see decks. putting this up as well in case it interests anyone, but this shows how much data I have, very rare case indeed. Arrangement of lighting circuits, A deck, captain's, navigation bridge and wheelhouse top.TIF Arrangement of lighting circuits, A deck, captain's, navigation bridge and wheelhouse top.TIF
  20. Richard Dunn
    I found this pdf online here by Gary Roberts and thought I would share it as it is very handy. LEDLightingForModelShips.pdf
  21. Richard Dunn
    Another question Lights, in particular these light on sides of superstructure. I have small led bulbs for these and I will make the actual fitting from a resin printed model, the lens being clear resin, but in regard to the wiring you will notice they are connected with 25mm conduit, should I fake those only and wire through the back or could I use .8mm copper wire to make conduit and use that to wire lights? Would the wire get hot? and ruin white paint. This ship has a LOT of these lights, I think 250 all up over several decks of course and not all on same circuit, I reckon maybe 20 per circuit Advice?
  22. Richard Dunn
    I will look at those, but the deck is a rubber/cork compound and is smooth but it ages really quickly. I have done a lot of plastic kits in my life and am familiar with dry brushing and hand painting weathering techniques but this is on a scale that has large areas of deck I need to cover and in the video below you can see the effect, I am thinking sponges and subtle changes in value. I am using automotive paint but deck can be different as it's being done off ship. The decks however are still primed with single pack acrylic primer at the time of her foundering she was almost due for her 2 year survey as a guide to amount of weathering. Here is a model at 17:10 , the best weathering job I have ever seen and the way the decks are done is SUPERB I want to know how to do this. go to 17: 10 I have soo many images I could show but cant for copyright reasons but this sad shot does show the decking in its worn state.
  23. Richard Dunn
    Thankyou Veszett. And no, at least I hope not. If anyone has some advice or techniques for painting worn rubberised decks like seen above PLEASE share as that is going to be the biggest challenge for painting
  24. Richard Dunn
    Some pictures of the priming process and how it all comes together. Plates ,plates and more plates. Pic on wall behind is a checklist, red cross being primed, green being tin-canned and ready to install. Working like this means the ply becomes like working with styrene in as far as it is surfaced and paint ready, only the sides of structure that have to have stiffener and framing attached are left, I am unsure if I should just prime it all and remove paint with a 1mm chisel where gluing needs to happen or weather to just paint the whole part once all framing is attached. My gut tells me the first option that way I can paint the surface while flat and paint all the web frames, stiffeners etc and once all glued on I can brush paint the corners where the joint lines are. An example of superstructure side, this will get sliced up where seams go later, just held on of course. Waterway construction, here you can see the upstand formed by the ply, and why the primary grain direction is vertical to strengthen the upstand. the holes are scupper and vent locations Fine CNC work cut with a .5mm cutter to house the mast sides and bulwark stays along the front. The hole in the deck in the mast is a 5mm pin that goes down a full deck and into mast to give it strength as masts have no stays as such The CAD model of this area o you can see better what is what. And the real ship taken from top of funnel.
  25. Richard Dunn
    Woohoo Thrusters have arrived for bow and stern. Centre removable section with prop removed to show access cover to gears as well as struts and strut fixing. Other side of boss Prop, notice even the circler disc for the variabl pitch blades are modelled. Prop in place in Tunnel. How the centre section mates to the flange on both sides with a thin rubber gasket( not shown) to seal the tunnel, centre section is held down tight by cradles. All that remains is for tunnels to be fixed into hull and kept back 10mm form skin, faired into hull and the grills soldered into tunnel mouths. The whole unit will then be painted in red oxide except prop as I don't think the prop is painted normally correct me if I am wrong. Thank you Simon Higgins from PropShop you have outdone yourself

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