Richard Dunn

about to cut these.

The mainstay lugs and the catheads.

I have 3 orders for this now already which I have started to machine, none of which are from this site unfortunately .

Some updates for the last few days. Tween decks were glued in and held down with 38mm prop jacks...sticks. The model is now structurally complete and I am cutting the details as far as I am going with CnC anyway. Deckhouse carcasses done, these sit in a bottom heavy base with dovetailed corners, on the agenda to cut today. Also the Sheerplate forward can be seen here from 1mm ply, their is a second layer behind which only goes to the deck height , the .5mm aluminium bulwarks are glued to the inside of this with a 4mm overlap representing accurately the ships construction The Sheerplate and how the Bulwark is attached to the inside, the height of the sheerplate above the deck stringer varies along her length and is one of the most important measurements I got as without it nothing would work The knightheads in the ship are built from 2 parts fore and aft of the keel plate extension which comes up the back of the apron and protrudes upwards, the knightheads do not sit in line with the stem or rabbet, though even the official Cutty Sark plans show this, an example of one of the many common mistakes with plans and models. Here the 2 parts are seen, they require a few bevels to be cut and the slots for the fore stay lugs can be seen on the aft half. These are not sitting low enough yet as the bevels on sides are not on and it will not pass behind the sheer plate yet. The aft half only goes down as far as the foredeck like on the ship. The margin planks for the Monkey Poop roof. the foreground are topgallant rails along the side of the ship Cutting the Poop margin planks that become the main rail. Fore deck break margins and topgallant rails. Note the the reduction in width of the topgallant rails from 9 to 6 inchs abaft the heads, these are spares but the actual have the scarf join cut. The foredeck is laminated from 2 layers of.4mm 3 ply over a jig to form the subtle sheer and camber so this requires no forcing to shape, it it housed in heads aft and knightheads forward, this means all the framing under the foredeck and breams can be done with styrene angles

Frame complete The remaining work is to glue the Tween decks into place which are already inside the hull, and can be moved around to expose beams for gluing, which is a relief. Just the decks to glue, sheer plates to fix and bilge stringer to attach, the stem and sternpost will now be braced plumb and a few midship frames braced level before the decks go on. Note the frames are pre bevelled by gluing on patterns and filing, the ends of the fore frames can be seen where it runs out due to being too thin, these will be done when the hull getsa quick sand prior to planking. The Tween decks get held down with 38mm sticks as the Tween deck is parallel to the maindeck The counter perimeter is here seen clearly, and note how it is higher than the deck, this is to align it to the white moulding around the hull as it is higher than the deck, one of the things models normally cheat on for ease of build, even Longridge made this shortcut but it alters the design and look of the ship so this is as close to the ships structure as possible. The mainstay lugs, these get pinned to the carlings to take the strain of the Main stays. The Saloon being assemble inside the counter frames to keep its shape.

Not sure if the Pritt stick is the same thing I use but the sticks I use clean up with isopropyl Alcohol, I just spray it on leave it for 5 mins and it peels away, the rest wipes off with some on a paper towel. Flying Fish is right, they are water-based but I find IA easier as it dries quickly that's all. Chemical Entity CAS No. Proportion (to 100%) TWA(mg/m³) STEL(mg/kg) water 7732-18-5 60-65 Not set Not set 2-Pyrrolidinone, 1-ethenyl-, homopolymer 9003-39-8 20-25 Not set Not set 1,2,3-Propanetriol 1,2-Propanediol 56-81-5 57-55-6 3-7 3-7 10 Not set Octadecanoic acid, sodium salt Benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy-, butyl ester, sodium salt: Human health tier II assessment 822-16-2 3-7 Not set 1400 Not set 36457-20-2 0-0.06 Not set

While here I should update Tween deck dry fitted forward, deciding If I need to plank the seen parts. The photos always make it look bigger than it is, remember the frames are only 4mm 8 ply, note the tweezes and masking tape roll. Counter construction, as you can see the developed shape of the bulwark is pretty accurate, just taped in Stern rabbet

So does yours, still feeding off yours because I know what it will look like., lets see who gets planked first.....

I can finally show a dry fitted frame almost complete. Of course this is all just leaning together right now and parts are missing but its the bulk. The Foredeck housed into the heads, the forward end gets housed into slots in the knightheads, leaving the underside clear for styrene framing as per the actual ship. Note this is a standin Fore deck the actual is laminated over a form from 2 layers of .4mm ply to make sure the camber and fore and aft sheer is in the deck and needs no force to shape. Details of the Poop construction. The slots for the counter cant frames. The variance in steps in the counter parts are deliberate and its designed to forma definite seat for the counter bulwark ply sheet so it sits in a rebate. A nice shot of the frames and Rabbet . The deck joints came up well, they hold themselves together dry..

I had The build moved to here as I doubt I will get more than a handful of orders , currently 3 not including the client this is being designed for. Anyway I have started to hand carve the rabbet for the 3mm cherry planking. Riflers are being used to remove the high spots

Fairness of frames Slots for break of poop

About that what I have planned for the Foredeck is to laminate the deck substrate with its camber out of 2 or 3 layers of .4mm ply over a form the after end is housed in the heads and its forward end in the knightheads and its sides rebated into the bottom of the main rail which becomes the margin plank, therefore the deck is strong and not needing to be supported by frames at all. this means styrene can be used to create the framing seen under. of course the samson posts and pillars will offer support though but the planking can be reduced in thickness to take up the thickness of the substrate. 2-3 layers of this .4mm 3 ply is very very stiff when laminated with epoxy, its surprising A couple more shots of the forward longitudinals fitted, keep in mind they need to be clamped down flush with beams. Also the hatch coamings are not fitted yet, I have not cut them yet.

Thank you, The aft end is even nicer, hopefully by the end of next weekend, Christmas day I will be able to carve the rabbet and assemble the frames for good.

Just laying the main deck on with a 1 meter rule next to hull for scale.

Nearly all the forward frames are fitted now. Note the fair line of the main deck along the sheerline, it's a pretty good indication of the accuracy. It's looking less and less likely I will make this a kit, as I suspected it's too large for most, I had a number in my head of 10-20 requests. I might look at selling the cad files so it can be cut by the buyer.

Starting to test fit all the parts and dry assemble. nothing is glued or forced together so a few little gaps but its fairly good, I am happy Stern deadwood and sternposts The Forward Deadwood minus the Stem post and cutwater Frames 70 to 88 dry fitted and decks fitted for checks And lastly a straight brass round to check alignment fore and aft of mast holes. Once I have done this for all the frames its time to cut the rabbet and start gluing

I hope this answers your question about the fit of the decks.. side to side at least.

Here you go https://www.dropbox.com/s/nq8liinoh9e4gqf/Hull Form Basics in Rhino.mp4?dl=0 If you have any issues with video playing you will need to use VLC media player, its free

If you go into the Cad section I did a live workshop on the Rhino basics for hull form a couple of years ago.

The build so far is here

I use Rhino which is used to design ships and my background is designing and doing structural modelling for ships and some naval vessels. I also use it to design and concept furniture. I use it as well in my day job now in TV Film and games modelling. so yes I have a lot of experience in a professional capacity. I us a tool in Rhino to develop non developable plates and shapes that are not able to be "unrolled" you may know them as ruled surfaces, but Rhino has tools called squish and smash which do it and allow for stretch and compression. its good enough to use in ship plates productions so.... https://docs.mcneel.com/rhino/5/help/en-us/commands/squish.htm If you look at my SS Tamahine build which is assembled and made the exact same way you can see the fits and the developed inverted stern parts fitted. Below is Tamahine note stern wrap part on bench, the curved part. Fitted On the TEV Wahine which is my personal project which is 4.3m long the plates are also developed with the same tool See below, the most advanced structure I will ever do .

I have started to clean up the parts and dry fit all the joints. Below is the main deck, on it rest the forward half of the keel with the fore mast step and first part of the deadwood fitted. A close up of the joints showing how well they fit, notice also the fit of the dovetails joining the deck parts. Below are the heads fitted into the slots, the stay plate slots are also shown forward of mast.

That's right and in this case the inner panelling will need to be filed flush to the hole anyway so it has to be done, not to mention a corner from a 2mm cutter is gone in 2-3 strokes, its pretty small, the whole square hole is only 11mm.

The first fitted 2mm ply parts, interior walls of Coachhouse, green in cad image, the saloon size can be gauged from this. The porthole openings are square because the inside is and if wanting to panel it its done.

I have had great success with cutting the square mouldings which range from .65mm and 1mm wide, of course these will be cut from thinner stock or narrow planks so they can be released by running through a saw but the point is the accuracy is there. next I will try a v cutter pass first to create the bevel before applying these cuts. Another pro for CNC, clean-up on these to remove charring would be impossible with out breaking them. The cut to the right was a test but it will actually be cut from .4mm ply, but as you can see I hit the emergency stop before it hit the screw. below I have cut full shapes but in reality I will only be cutting the arcs, the straights will be made as separate parts with correct grain direction, maybe on the CNC as well. The cutter used here is a .98mm end mill cutting 1mm deep in one pass