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And here you can see the displacement of main mast and mizzenmast:

It was important to make the necessary changes to make the model more realistic. I noticed, that some elements in the previous work I did wrong, unfortunately the absence of accurate and, above all, quality plans is a hell ...
The changes concerned the displacement of masts and remodeling quarter galleries to achieve better symmetry.
 
 

 

Channels and other fitting - here I mainly use wood to achieve high solidity.

 

And here you can see some pics from creating the wooden capstan - all is handmade using only basic tools:

 
 

Making the largest flag on the model  - I used a fine red fabric on which I painted white rectangles. Finished flag was oversprayed with flat coat to achieve unchangeable shape.
 

 
 

The lanterns on the stern were made of cardboard and thick foils,  included plenty of hand made ornaments from modeling clay/I use Czech product Modelit/Modurit for all decorations on my the model. I have decided to create a different shape of lanterns ( in comparison with Vale´s painting). I have found inspiration in Sailmaker painting of The Royal Katherine and other similar ships from that period. 
 

Sailmaker painting of the Royal Katherine:

 

Wooden catheads  with detailed decoration:

The decorative railings to the staircase platforms was set into wooden frames and moved to the model:

And finally there were made staircases with rounded steps:
 

 

Hello dear friends,
first I must apologize I was not here for a long time and didn't let you know about the progress. I have only little free time for hobbies and try to continue on Czech forum at least. I am sorry that I am not able to answer all your questions - mainly duplicate questions, that were answered and explained in detail many times  - I cannot devote myself to it, otherwise I would not have any time for anything else. It is also quite difficult for me write in English language and use correct expressions.
I do appreciate all your comments and strong support. Thank you all for this. 
I would like to bring some new pics from continuation, so make yourself comfortable and enjoy.
 
I managed to remove the model from pedestals and paint the underwater part of the hull with protective white stuff. In that occasion there were raised "dolphins pedestals" using wooden base. The girdling almost disappeared, but you can still recognize a different method of laying the planks.
 

 

We now have reached a point, when serious decisions must be taken. Assemble or not assemble?

I am sure you all agree that it needs to be put together. Therefore, here are a few pictures: 




And the silly pictures...




I hope you have enjoyed being reduced to 1/48th scale and taking a tour of that interesting compartment. Next time, we seal it with the ceiling..... but first some crews....
 
Yves

Great looking diorama, Bob!

Well done, Bob. It's great that we can do things like this for our remaining WW II vets.

Happy seeing just what happened with your fine work. Excellent job.
 
An old Gunner, jud       First loaders

Here are a few shots of Owen Garrison and His wife Florence Saturday when I presented the model to the Millville Army Air Field Museum in His honor. Owen was very pleased, and somewhat emotional. It brought back many memories of his time aboard USS Monterey. He plans to use it as a teaching aid when he gives tours at the museum.

Bob W

Good looking Bofors and crew. I will include some photos of one in action in RVN, you can then see how the loaders held the 4 round clips as they loaded them. We re-barrelled this gun without unloading as the photo shows. This gun sure looks a lot like your model, but we had more ammo. Just noticed, the large helmets were to fit over the sound powered phones, the Pointer and Trainer in the seats wore them, if the mount Captain was not pointing, he would have been wearing one also.



 
 

Well, after a couple of health problems and a serious modelers block, I have finished Mount #9 40mm/56 Twin Bofors in 1/32 scale. This diorama will be donated to the Millville Army Air Field Museum in the name of Owen Garrison. He was an original Plank Owner aboard CVL-26 USS MONTEREY. At the age of 93 He serves as a Docent, and along with His wife, opens the museum every Saturday to welcome visitors.

The ship structure is scratch built. The gun mount is a SRS resin kit with 20 parts and many items added. The jeep/mule, is a reworked Tamiya kit. The 40mm rounds, with clips, and spent brass, are from Orange Hobby. The figures are a combination of Italeri PT sailors, and Warrior PT crew. With the case the size is:
18 1/2" wide
16 1/2" deep
14 " high

Any And All Questions are Welcome

Bob W

The first four are general shots, second four are macro shots.

Oooh -- in my experience, that's a bad idea, 'cuz it just makes you want to build real boats instead of model ones! 😄 (BTW, I have long wanted to build a real boat, and since I will soon be moving to within spitting distance of not one but two lakes, I plan to make that dream a reality in the not-too-distant future. And BTW #2, Wooden Boat Forum -- along with their magazine, store, and other resources -- is an excellent site.)

Instead of looking for a certainly very rare model kit that exactly mirrors full-scale construction and may well be designed for advanced modelers, why don't you simply pick a simple full-size design and scale it down and build a model of it. "How to build it" plans for full-sized boats are all over the place. WoodenBoat Magazine's WoodenBoat Store has many highly detailed plans available (Their website: https://www.woodenboatstore.com/ ) 
 
It is almost a certainty that even model kits that claim to exactly replicate full-scale construction details will be "customized" for modeling purposes and contain parts which have been prefabricated or omitted. Obviously, if construction corners haven't been cut and assembly simplified, what's the point of a "kit?" Anybody can obtain plans and buy wood and string. (And any small fittings one might desire are readily available from any number of sources.) I'm not knocking kits, which are a great way to get started in modeling, but building a kit to build a model really bears very little resemblance to building a full-size boat. There'd be no point to a kit if it did.
 
If you want to learn how real boats are built, you should read books on real boatbuilding, not books on ship modeling. It's a whole lot easier for a knowledgeable boatbuilder to build a model of a boat than for modeler to build a full-sized boat. The skills aren't equally complementary in both directions.  
 
In terms of your long-range plans, you might also spend some time following the posts in the WoodenBoat Forum (http://forum.woodenboat.com/) You can learn a tremendous amount from the professional and amateur boatbuilders who discuss their boatbuilding projects there. Beyond small rowing and sailboats, building your own boat of any size is a lot like building your own car. It can be done, but it's a very labor and expense intensive enterprise that requires a lot of knowledge and experience in many different trade crafts.  

Still toying, yes literally, with the front bulkhead. I have decided with some spare parts to replicate the fan system, used to bring fresh air and extract used air from the inside of the pressure hull. Of course, Trumpeter does not provide the second set of fan/turbine as well as some of the pipes and it is very regrettable.

It takes a lot of butchering and gluing of the pipes to get to a decent and matching results. I have also added the electric motors which are driving the turbines, as these parts were not designed by Trumpeter. Please do not ask for the electric wires of the fan motors....

Close up on the little wooden desk. Barely visible against the wall, is a German print indicating essential operations of the Diesel engines. On the wooden desk, is a schematic of some of the numerous pipes circuits and a large pen. Not yet visible, is a small light to the left of the red control hand wheel. The micro wires are coming above on the bulkhead.

We now have quite a few pieces to put together. However, before the final assembly, I still have to work on the walkway.

Yves

I have been working on the exhaust system of the Port diesel engine. Most of it will be completely invisible, but I have the satisfaction to know that it is there....
 
First, the ceiling had to be slotted to allow the fixed exhaust pipe to go through. In fact, it is almost impossible to present the piping correctly, if you plan to use the hole provided by the kit. Below is a picture before: 

And after: 

The right hole will be used to insert just the elbow, from the top, and as such does not need to be slotted.
 
The exhaust is built by carefully gluing the pipe to the ramp: 


The tube is coiled with some heavy cotton thread to simulate the insulation band, that was used to insulate against the noise and heat.
 

Finally, after gluing in place the exhaust: 

Most of it is frankly invisible. So, let's enjoy it as we will never see it again, once the ceiling is installed.
 
Yves
 

I agree Joe, as I bought the very same saw from our local Wood Crafter shop earlier this year.  It makes a very fine cut and even people with limited strength like me will find that very little effort is needed to make a cut.

I have had the Craftsman version of that tool for years.  The biggest difference between the two tools is that mine is cordless with a rechargeable lithium ion battery.  It has that offset in the tool sanding and cutting blades that lets you get in real close.  It's a very handy feature that remodelers find very useful for under cutting trim mouldings to install new flooring, since the tool itself can literally get flush with floor to make the cut.

I too have this saw Jaagar. Mine is referenced as a veneer cutting saw and also does a good job of cutting for modeling but does not quite have the "clean cut" of the former one I suggested. You do point out the one thing I like about veneer saws and that is it is easier to start the cut with the one you suggest. I have found that with the Japanese version if I scribe the cut line first the pull sawing is much easier.
Joe

Welcome to MSW Tom.  We welcome you and your company.
 
 
Note from Admin:  CAF now meets all criteria as a legitimate MFG of ship model kits.   They have stopped producing all kits based on source material they did not have the rights to use, mainly from Ancre.   The kits currently available on their website including the Enterprise, are perfectly fine and original works not taken without consent from other authors, designers and mfg's.
 
We are currently helping Tom at CAF to acquire the proper rights through an agreement with Ancre to make any Ancre kits legally allowable.  Until such time all CAF /Ancre inspired kits are not allowed on MSW.  But we are hopeful they soon will be.  CAF has stopped mfg them and selling these Ancre related kits voluntarily after admitting he copied the material from Ancre without consent.   Negotiations are currently underway to rectify that situation.  We will make an announcement as soon as they reach an agreement.  Yes there is some leftover stock of these Ancre CAF kits available through distributors which you can buy but they are still prohibited from being built within a build log here on MSW until the agreement is finalized.
 

Welcome, Tom!
 
I am so very pleased that you and Mr. Berti have been able to resolve this issue to everyone's satisfaction. I hope that your experience with Ancre may serve as a template for other Chinese designers and that we may soon see additional white-listings.
 
Kind regards,