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Thunder

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  1. Thunder
    Thank you Coxswain, it is good to know that someone thinks it has been a good build. The planking timber was very nice to work with if not a bit smelly!
  2. Thunder
    Now gun port lids. Read the instructions after making and it suggested two square sections. I made the outer section out of three pieces of plank. Each lid had to be made to suit the gun port as they are not square. The sides are parallel to the ships frames with top and bottom parallel to the waterline. Each then has three planks that are fixed to the internal layer in such a way as to match the hull planking in that location. The effect of the lids being this shape means they do look a little strange when in the open position as they do not stick out square from the hull. However, looking at photographs of other, contemporary, cutter models this does seem correct. Each gun port was fitted into place and then sanded flush with the hull. They were then fitted with the hinges taken from the etched sheet I had brought many years ago and tiny eyelets left over from a Caldercraft kit. Holes drilled in the hull to insert the ends of the hinges and rigged with ropes over the bulwark rai to the cleats fitted previously inside the hull.
  3. Thunder
    Cannons under construction and on the near completed hull. And here is three rigged. I would of expected carronades by this date but the book with the kit specifies cannon.
  4. Thunder
    Now shots of the stern counters and rudder construction with some shots of stern planking.
  5. Thunder
    Some more of the deck furniture items under construction, two chimneys, hen coup and cannon ball racks, cannon balls provided all else scratch built.
  6. Thunder
    Well, I kept calling it a whip staff and no one picked me up on it. So, either no one is looking at the log, we all don't know what it is called or you are all just too kind to the forgetful model shipwright. Anyway, progress with building the Windlass, windlass bitts and pawl bits. First photographs show my effort to clamp it in place whilst the glue dries. One clamp is simply onto the keel to add a stop to prevent the second clamp from slipping. Bowsprit timber placed through the hull and on top of the windlass. Second clamp then pressing down onto the bowsprit timber. Pawl bits added. Completed windlass with ratchet and pawls and the belaying pins in place.
  7. Thunder
    Some more shots of deck furniture: Here you can see the rudder post coming through the deck, companion ways and kevels. The gun ports have eyebolts and kevels for securing the lids installed. Main companion way and skylight (and thumb). Brackets for top of main companion way were made from a sheet of brackets found in an old etched sheet which I had brought 20 years ago. another view of same items. The skylights have clear sheet installed, the smaller one of which is showing as reflection here. whip staff progressing, much to do yet.
  8. Thunder
    External also progressing with chain plates, hawse holes, catheads, and wales. These photographs are excellent for showing where needs a bit of extra sanding and finishing.
  9. Thunder
    As you can see things moved along greatly, Deck planking completed. Bulwark capping rails made by cutting from ply sheet and fitted. Cleats fitted, cat heads built and fitted, Gratings made, skylights and companion ways. Most of these are shown in place but not yet fitted. The only part that came in the kit is the whip staff main lathe turned section, all other fittings are scratch. On the work mat you will see work started on the cannons. Each truck has been drilled and plastistrut rod inserted to represent the extension of the shafts. Belaying pin racks are also fitted.
  10. Thunder
    Why didn't I think of that!!
  11. Thunder
    By the way, don't look at the wall behind too much, I was decorating at the time.
  12. Thunder
    Once the deck was completed the heights of the marked gun ports were double checked. to do this I built one of the gun carriages. The guns came with nicely turned barrels, two side cheeks of the carriages and two sets of trucks complete with shafts. To make it easier to glue these together I made up a simple jig. This would also help ensure they were all the same. As the gun ports needed little adjustment I started to cut them out. Usual way by chain drilling around the perimeter and then cutting out. Starting to look like a war ship now. Next gun port lining and inner bulwark planking.
  13. Thunder
    Having fitted the beams and central supports the deck can be laid. First you have to make a false deck out of a sheet of 1mm ply. This all seems a lot of extra work but does make the curvature easier to acquire than the usual kit methods. Photographs show ply deck fitted, margin planks fitted and first planks raised. The first two planks to starboard of the king plank look to have a gap but it I just pencil marks. Full length of deck completed for first planks. Also shows Waterways in place pre-painted black. Planks at stern are to be cut back when planking the stern section.
  14. Thunder
    View of deck with Bulkheads trimmed down above deck level and extra fitted to sides of gun-ports. Also shown are the deck 'stringers' in place, deck beams and central deck supports.
  15. Thunder
    Thank you Nils, Apart from one small area under the bows I am happy with it, especially as done on a winter holiday away with only a few basic tools. Usually after an evening in the village pub.
  16. Thunder
    I'm amazed how you have turned that second planking round after the first. I think making them narrow probably helped you achieve this. That first planking really was provided far to wide.
  17. Thunder
    You may of seen the red lines on the hull in the above photographs, I often use the laser, I have for installing sockets in kitchens, for my hull marking out. bottom edge of keel set correctly as per kit plans, ensure level from larboard to starboard and then use laser to mark out. Close up of marking out method below also showing Wale in position which had it edges painted black prior to fixing. Gun port positions marked out. This needed doing before inner bulwarks or decking as false frames needed installing inside the planking at the gun port edges.
  18. Thunder
    O.K. big jump now as went on holiday and didn't take photographs. So here we have hull planking complete. Only has one layer. The 40 year old planking smelled a bit but was really nice to work with. To plank area above the wale was done first. Then temporary 'stringers' were used to divide each side of the hull into four. These area were then planked using proportional dividers. With two layer planking I usually use scale length plank but due to lack of bulkheads and one layer these go full length of the hull.
  19. Thunder
    Druxey, I am going to have to search through some of those old copies of the model shipwright as I would love to see one of those advertisements. Do you know what editions they were in?
  20. Thunder
    Back on with the build. The instructions book actually did not tell you to put the first key hull planks in place but told you to put deck stringers in place. These are fitted inside the frames along the length of the deck pretty much as you would fit the waterways but are only there to lay the deck beams onto. As the top tabs of the frames are so weak and I needed to get the stern correctly aligned I decided to switch these stages and plank the hull first. Also, reading on, the tops of the frames were to be reduced in size. This would mean these stringers would no longer be against them. The key planks were also the sheer strake and the main wale. The pictures on the box art showed the model as clinker planked but the instruction book described this as 'clench' and then described how this is not necessary correct as by this period carvel planking was the common practice. I decided to do this Carvel and perhaps attempt clinker for my Lady Nelson build.
  21. Thunder
    just checked your parts and yes there is pre curved bulwark capping sections for the bows that could be used as formers to give you an idea of the bow shape.
  22. Thunder
    I agree with Danny. Did this kit have pre-shaped bulwark rails? if so you can use these as a former to check.
  23. Thunder
    Hi, I built this model many moons ago and my bulkhead 10 was exactly the same. I did mention it on past logs on here in the past and if you look at some other builds you can see where, in some builds, it has not been corrected. I am surprised that Jotika have never corrected this. I worked out that they took there measurements straight from the admiralty plans but then spaced the position of that bulkhead differently. I did what you are doinjg now which worked out fine.
  24. Thunder
    Thank you for the link, I had found the ferret drawings as recently as last Christmas in a book I was brought on Royal Naval Sloops. With this confirmation I can finally make a name plate for my HMS Ferret!
  25. Thunder
    Two more photographs of the first key planks. These make or break the build as the define its finished gunwale profile. Also, this is a single planked model so my planking techniques need to improve.

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