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Thunder

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  1. Thunder
    George, That's interesting, you have obviously done your research. I started this kit a few years back but did so whilst on holiday with no data to consult. It seems that I might have to restart. I assumed, with the masts having royals, that it was as originally built, at later rebuilds these were lowered but so was some of the top hamper of the hull. She was eventually altered again and the guns were reduced. What are you going to do with the missing engravings on the beak head / bow or were these removed on this rebuild as well?
  2. Thunder
    Hi, I may be wrong but I thought that consensus of opinion was that the first wooden model you have shown above was proven to be inaccurate and that she did in fact have a square tuck. Seems very early in history to have a round tuck. If I get chance later I will look to see if I can find this review of that model. I know it was built much later on a commission for someone.
  3. Thunder
    Finally, completion. All photographs between seem to be lost. I used the mouldings that came with the kit where possible as I am not at the stage of being able to do my own. Comparing with 'built to kit' dimension models she is of a finer run in and appears longer because of this. Gun port positions and the windows are placed to the book dimensions. I chose stub masts as I thought they, will the associated rigging, would prevent easy view of the detail. They are not glued in so I can change this later. Quarter badge window frames were done with the timber supplied and I wasn't happy. so I cheated a little on the other windows and used (horror) Plastic.
  4. Thunder
    Big jump i'm afraid but I did say it was a short topic. First planking complete, false decks and deck beams in place. I have started marking the bulkhead positions on to the outside of the first planking along with the water line and wale positions. The wale positions will be the first second planks on as I hate to see planks crossing under the wales and emerging the other side as this could not happen in real practice. Makes second planking harder though. Ignore my kitchen I was in the process of re-wiring and fitting. Admiral not happy to come home and find me doing Caroline instead.
  5. Thunder
    All Bulkheads shaped and re-dry fitted as a final check before fairing. There is an extra six bulkheads here over the kit design. This really made a difference when planking.
  6. Thunder
    Bulkheads in place on keel. The extra pieces of wood stuck to some of the bulkheads are where the originals were too small. These were filed down to the correct shape once all glue was completely dry. However, at this stage these are only dry fitted without re-shaping the bulkheads. You can see the amount that has to be taken off some of the originals and how they will match the bearding line.
  7. Thunder
    Bulkheads were re-used were possible comparing shape at each location with those on the plans. Extra bulkheads made out of MDF sheet. Some of these were very different to the plans.
  8. Thunder
    This is going to be a very short topic as I am just going to post some photographs I found of my build so I apologise for that in advance. I thought they may be of use to someone. Having the Anatomy of the ship series book I compared this to the kit. As many on here have probably found, the kit varies considerably from the plans. Not sure why they did this when the plans are available but this is common with kits. I printed the drawings out and altered their size until they best matched the keel size provided by the kit. I did work out the scale it became but not sure now, seem to remember 1:50. I removed the bow and keel sections so I could install the correctly shaped walnut parts in their place. I then marked on all the bulkheads as shown in the lines plan. Photo below shows this and the bearding line which has been shaped ready to receive the planking.
  9. Thunder
    Rigging of the Gaff
  10. Thunder
    Main Yard rigging in place
  11. Thunder
    Thinking about it probably so could take down the mast and all rigging quickly under poor weather conditions.
  12. Thunder
    A shot of the rigging showing shrouds and ratlines completed. Also can be seen the tackles for the topmast shrouds and the tackle for the shifting backstay. View of the topmast shrouds passing over the spreader. Topmast shrouds with the unusual thimble and hook arrangement that effectively splits each into two halves. Does anyone know why this was done?
  13. Thunder
    Another advantage would be to pick a vessel for both sides of the pond. Nonsuch could do this. Alternatively another Hero such as Pellew. The Indefatigable as a Razee would be unusual if drawings are available. Most of his early career ships were prizes of French origin making research more difficult. Perhaps a short list of your favourites on here for a vote would stick with your requirement for personnel interest and do the market research as well. We could all go on suggesting subjects forever!
  14. Thunder
    Chris, You could always fill a gap min the market with a conversion kit. i.e. parts for 1765 version of Victory. Personally I love the smaller, less glamorous, ships of the Royal Navy. 5th and 6th rates of C1660 -1720 such as the Lizard or the Galley Frigate of 1702 as depicted in the book by Franklin or Fubbs and Nonsuch. Alert would be different to any other Cutter on the market. I would sell most of my kits in store for one of the above
  15. Thunder
    Chris, Based on that information I will not be adding to my stock of kits waiting to be built. Instead I will hold fast until you release your first project. Good luck, Adrian
  16. Thunder
    Just wondering if you had to paint them red or if it was done as part of the cutting process? Ouch!
  17. Thunder
    some close up shots of the Stay at mast head and stem. Also, a shot of ratline being rigged:
  18. Thunder
    Apologise for the photographs in this part. I am well ahead with the rigging but not taken many photographs recently. As alone in a hotel with little to do thought I would add the photographs I took at the early rigging stage. Unfortunately camera was set up wrong so they are a little bit 'blue'. First photo shows the bowsprit fixed in place and the Travelling outhauler rigged. As you may be able to spot, the fore stay and shrouds are also rigged and the ratlines are started. Above you will also notice that the back stays are also rigged but the belays are not fully secured.
  19. Thunder
    Snap was there week ending 19th of September.
  20. Thunder
    Blimey, all this talk of different woods at your local timber store. I did the circuit of all the local stores near me in the UK for a piece of oak to use in the house. All I found was, pine, badly seasoned pine, knotty pine and a bit of teak.
  21. Thunder
    I agree with Carl, a better poll would be by individual kit by manufacturer. If you do by manufacturer alone you are not recognising the fact that they have a range of kits to suit experience and budget. A poor feedback result for Sergal's Racehorse (it is really poor) might not compare to their Cutty Sark. perhaps if you had to give an answer for each manufacturer listed and this be poor, good or no knowledge, then you will get clear results on which are most popular and can get an accurate quality opinion based on actual experience.
  22. Thunder
    Blimey, what do you need to do to get a gold! An amazing build well done, and I never comment unless seriously impressed. Perhaps could describe as a merchant ship brought into the Royal Navy for convoy escort protection? The problem with a lot of these kits is they seemed to go out of their way to take real plans and make the description as inaccurate as possible so that you cannot trace the original. Or as in the Unicorn and Royal Caroline, have a full set of plans and then not bother to use them for the model, very strange!
  23. Thunder
    We used to use Loctite and had their representative come to site who described how best to use and keep it. Since then I have always kept it in a fridge apart from one for rubber that is kept in the freezer. I then put the small amount to be used on a tile and return the bottle to the fridge. I have kept it this way without it going off for many years. However, I have tried new bottles and doesn't seem any better. Just seems you have to hold things together for ages before it sets and then it is still easy to pull apart. I know the way I use or store it has not changed.
  24. Thunder
    Hi, what manufacturer of CA do you use? I don't rate it any more and was coming to the conclusion that it had become 'watered down' here in the UK to either make production cheaper or for it to be safer. It no longer seems to have a strong bond or take quickly. I have always used Loctite, prism 406 if I can get it. We used to use this where I used to work and it actually held drive belts together on a beer bottling inspector for over a week till parts came. Now it won't even hold plastic.
  25. Thunder
    Thanks Blue Ensign that is very similar to how I decided to do it. The only difference is that I wanted the stirrup to come down between the turns round the yard. It seems strange that all the books seem to skirt this point, James Lees included, though I must of read up on it some where to know it hung down the back. Strangely the McGowen Victory works seems to have them hanging central to the yard rather than down the rear. Tom would need even longer legs! I usually use wire for the stirrups, drill a hole on the underside, poke it in and glue it, then wrap it round. This is o.k. at smaller scales. Druxey, thanks for replying on the bobstay. I decided, as cutters run the bowsprit in and out, that a bobstay would not be practical and as the travelling outhauler would actually assist moving the bowsprit that I would rig this.

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