Thunder
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Your planking does look to be coming along well. I think the Royal Navy didn't even start experimenting with the copper plating for about another 90 years so if you need to cover the bottom part of the hull it would of been 'white stuff'. I don't think any other country did it first and in northern waters it was not required as the Toredo worm cannot live there (yet). Hence the Wasa surviving. The model shown is in the historic dockyard museum at Portsmouth. One of the others I saw was in a museum at Anglesey but I cannot find any photographs. The only thing for me that lets it down is the gun port lids as they should be flush when closed.
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I have this on the shelf to do and never realised it was such a pig to plank. I have seen it in three museums built and never noticed then. Unfortunately you cannot always tell till your into the build. It would be interesting to see if they changed the planks. It also features in the book 'ship modelling from stem to stern' but the build is not covered. I don't know about in Sutherland but I find it difficult to get decent replacement planking, what you get from the online model shops is exactly the same as in the kits. Trouble is, unless I find evidence that she was planked like the vessel in this thread, I will plank it in the usual style. Well the second planking layer at least. It looks like I will be getting some new planking so that it is narrower and be doing a lot of tapering with additional stealers at the bow. I will be watching this thread with interest but I must apologise if that is to learn from your difficulties and mistakes.
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I know it is harping back to those photographs of the real build but I have never seen a hull planked like that and wondered if anyone new more about it. Was it a practice only in certain countries and then with only certain types or sizes of vessel? What was the frames like, those plank ends would have no fixing unless the frames were pretty much side by side. If it is only certain vessels it would make modelling them more accurate and it would be nice to know so that it wasn't used as the 'correct' method for all vessels. As for your sanding, I would take a look at how thin the planks would be after sanding to determine if you need the filler to provide strength. You wouldn't want to sand through one. It may be a good idea to get some inside the hull to strengthen them as well. Especially at the bows as if doesn't appear that there was a sold block for you to have landed the planks against.
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I often use the thread but not many of the tools. There are some great fine scissors like the 'Dr Slick' scissors and micro clamps but the biggest problem I find when rigging is reaching in to grab threads and holding thread close enough to a belaying pin to tie it off. For the first the following are useful: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-Hartman-Alligator-Cup-Shape-Forceps-3-5-ENT-Surgical-Instruments-CE-/161329460991 For the second some blunt cuticle pushes / cutters. https://www.lightinthebox.com/cuticle-pusher-trimmer-remover-nail-manicure-tool_p233511.html?currency=GBP&litb_from=bing_shopping&utm_source=bingshopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=bingshopping&msclkid=b0f8d03935de1bee23f08a4184fc6767 Also have some crocheting hooks at hand. https://www.lovecrochet.com/knit-pro-steel-gold-tip-crochet-hook These come in a range of sizes and are handy lengthened by fitting into a long piece of dowel. Make sure you get the silk thread rather than nylon. Some say it shrinks but I have not had that problem, in fact more likely to go loose over time. I have had black turn to dark brown but only after many times when washed dust off the finished ship by using the electric shower!
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Hi, Airfix went with the colour scheme as suggested by the salvage team at the time. Blue was still shown as the colours of the ship in their museum guides till very recently so Airfix thought they had it right. I built this twice over the years and both times all the research and books illustrated her as being majority blue. The little sticky uppy things are the tops of the Kevels that Airfix moulded into the rails rather than putting inside the bulwark. These would have been used for the rigging so you may need them if doing full sail rig.
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Well, I have done six builds and you have taught me a great tip on the first page of yours. I normally do the keel and bulkheads and then set about the blocks. Your simple trick of pre-shaping them before gluing in the bulkheads is an excellent, yet simple, idea. I can see I could learn a lot from your log. Thank you.
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In British service she was re-named Cormorant (1781) but later returned to be called Rattlesnake (1783). She was then sold to the French in 1786 and re-named again as Le Tonnant (see Corel or Soclaine kits).
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Hobbyzone building slip for wooden ship models
Thunder replied to aydingocer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hello Harley, just a word of caution. I had mine on a little table as you have shown yours, with the ends unsupported, and the ends have sagged. I have not been able to get it back the other way even after doing the reverse. -
Hi, I am building a kit that had an original invoice inside for 1970 and even though the parts list has eaten way almost like it was dissolvable, the wood is excellent and very nice to work with. On the other hand a Jotika kit of HMS Pickle that was only 3 years old required the walnut replacing. I have a large collection of kits, some from the 1980's and cannot really tell any difference in the wood.
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Hi, Caldercraft / Jotika do the Pickle: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft_schooner_pickle.html I think you can sample the instructions here: http://jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Heritage_4.htm
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Hi, it is a little more complicated than that. The Caldercraft / Jotika kits instructions vary depending on the age they were first manufactured. The Pickle has very good instructions but if you picked their Supply then you will find them poor. There is the odd discrepancy with either also which people here could help you avoid. The Victory kits look pretty good but not as thorough as the Pickle. The Lady Nelson is quite basic.
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I wouldn't knock yourself about your Victory, it looks a cracking job for your first vessel. I am pretty amazed that you have showed the determination to stick at it and get to this stage. Assuming that is a wooden plank on bulkhead kit then you have started with one of the hardest models available. The Lady Nelson could help iron out some skills and be completed more quickly but after the Victory it may prove to be under your skill level. Saying that, I have one myself, waiting to complete as a model between bigger projects. The choice is yours but I think you could handle any of them kits.
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Hi, only just catching up on this topic. I have built the same kit, well almost, from a Revell package. Definitely the same kit, marketed as the Flying Dutch Man but not 'glow in the dark'. Your build has encouraged me to finish as I have left it without masts. I read your discussion on kit origin, the other Pirate ship shown looks either to be the old Pyro 'French man of War' or the Saint Louis. Most of the kits in this vein are copies and pop up between Lindberg, Revell and Heller. I have kits of them all using each others moulds as well as the odd use by them of Pyro and Airfix moulds. For sails I have used the plastic on the larger scales but worth trying thin paper for some. I sawed the bolt ropes, etc, on whilst soaked through and applied to yards then re-soaked when rigged. By drying with a hair dryer and coating with a dope they look like they are wind blown. Clewed up sails look good as can do correctly whilst wet. It is worth a go. Love the build.
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A great example of what can be a accomplished even with a kit of this quality. Inspirational.
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Hi thanks for the reply, my issues are with the bulkheads, the transom sections and now the deck construction. Perhaps I should start a build log but I am not organised enough to remember to take the photographs.
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Hi, I acquired this 'kit' some time ago and have just started the build. I have already come up against a lot of issues so wondered if anyone else has done or is building this kit. It may be you are building from the plans which would be the same as the kit is near scratch build anyway. The kit has a booklet by Bill Shoulder, a kit plan for bulkheads, keel and masts and some lovely plans which are taken from the originals in NMM. The main problem is that you have to cut parts to the kit plans but work to the NMM plans for measurements. THEY DO NOT MATCH!!! Bulk heads were provided but didn't match either and on remaking found that kit plans are not symmetrical to the centre line. Or course, as most kits seem to do, the bulkheads positions do not align with the body plans, Is this just to confuse the modeller? Any help would be great. Thanks.
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Hi, From what I can see in the photographs the planking looks really well done. You cannot really avoid some clinker effect as your first planking is thicker planks. The only way to avoid would be a lot of steaming and pre-shaping. In real practice each plank would possibly be cut to suit the position, which would not be practical with the supplied material. You can however divide your hull into sections and then divide up the bulkheads by amount of planks required at the middle of the hull. from this you can work at the taper of the planks and shape each to suit before application. I don't tend to start at top or bottom of the hull but at the wale position.
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Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
Thunder replied to SomethingIsFishy's topic in Plastic model kits
Hi, checked my kit, it has been on my bedside cabinet for 10 years with plastic masts and is fine. -
I think he is referring to 'as it is now' because there is evidence that she is not like she was at Trafalgar. Wishful thinking for the 1765 option, that is something I have always wanted myself and would struggle to stop myself from buying.
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Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
Thunder replied to SomethingIsFishy's topic in Plastic model kits
When I built that particular model I had no trouble with the plastic masts as, unlike Heller's war ships, the masts are reasonably solid. It is still on show after 20 years so will check it for you when I get home to see how it has faired. The top tip I would give you, for building that model, is to get the Noel C L Hackney book for the Airfix Mayflower. This is a step by step guide to building the model at three different levels of expertise and is brilliant. That Revell kit is very good but this will help you achieve museum standard. If the masts are hollow you can use metal rod glued inside. For the yards you can replace studding sail booms with metal rod to strengthen the yard ( obviously not on your ship). -
After reading the Keith Julier books I purchased some permagrit files on blocks, I since purchased a set of needle files by the same company and a set of larger files of various shapes and grit. Unless I need something more flexible these are all I need. Hi, Below is the website: http://www.permagrit.com/index.php They do more than when I last took a look so will be looking at getting some more myself. I have had some for many years now and have used the blocks for Kitchen fitting and DIY as well and am still on my first set. The only thing I would say is that the flexible sheets are not that flexible, unless they have improved them.
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Announcing the Model Ship World Ship Kit Database Project
Thunder replied to SkerryAmp's topic in Wood ship model kits
Hi, are you going to be listing discontinued kits? only reason i ask is that people may have information that is valuble as they often come up on web sites for sale. -
The period of the Clipper ships saw a rise in the chinese pirates that would prey on any unprepared western merchant vessel. They used Junks that were heavily armed with large crews.
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Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
Thunder replied to SomethingIsFishy's topic in Plastic model kits
You can buy various dowel rods from craft stores on line beech being good but you can find other wooden rod from other sources, wooden cotton buds, tooth picks or if you go to a ladies beauty salon they have a device called orange sticks for pushing back nail cuticles which is good quality wood. I Have some vary large cotton buds that are sold for cleaning equipment but cannot remember what for now, mine were from a lumonics laser printer. Keep your eye open when out and about, sometimes stirring sticks from well know fast food outlets come in handy! When doing my plastic kits I would rig in the same order as a real ship but add temporary forward stays to prevent rigging the back stays pulling the masts out of true. Just make sure you do not use thread with a tendency to shrink. -
What a great log and inspiration. I did a similar process with this kit and ended up selling it before starting as decided there was just too much work to make it more accurate. I don't understand these kit manufacturers surely it would be easier to do it correct when plans are available than make it up! Saying that, I moved on to the Caroline and ended up modifying her.
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