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Thunder

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  1. Thunder
    My own fault for getting this build off course, I should perhaps dig out my Resolution build and put it back on. The next stage, after the fairing of the bulkheads, was to place the two key planks. In order to achieve this I started to carefully mark their positions on the bulkheads (usually do this prior to fitting them). When doing this I discovered the deck heights were going to vary drastically over the length of the hull. The deck supports, which were part of the inner bulkheads were all at the incorrect heights. An approximately check of gun port positions confirmed this. The next series of photographs show the two key planks fitted and modifications made to the bulkheads for the deck heights. The positioning of the key planks and locking them in position was very important as they also had to be used to ensure that transom assembly was perfectly square. More on the deck height later! From this photographs you can see blocks fitted to assist the planking between the bulkheads. At the bow, fixed to the inside of the stem, from the 'deck' up is the Apron. This, together with the 1mm ply fitted to the keel makes a perfect slot for the planking to land in.
  2. Thunder
    Hi Lou, I did find details of a HMS Resolution that was a Cutter and lost in the North sea with all hands. I am on holiday at the moment so cannot get the details for you. I think it is most likely that Corel made this kit up completely as I have found no plans for the vessel I mention above. Below is my Resolution:
  3. Thunder
    The next stage was the transom section. I started to build in place but it was far too flimsy so built before installing. It is made of three pieces that all require the correct angles. To assist in this there was two formers included in the kit which can be seen in the first parts photo above just to the right outer edge of the opened box. Once fixed in place this structure was extremely flimsy and almost impossible to fit correctly. Chamfering the edges was even harder.
  4. Thunder
    I jumped ahead a bit over the next stages and failed to take photographs. After the bulkheads were all fitted the supporting 'deck' was fitted. I say deck but it has no use than to support the structure. Until this point the bulkheads were very weak so it was essential to fit this before any fairing of the bulkheads was attempted. As yo see other work has been completed but will describe later. Once this 'deck' was fitted I started to fair the bow bulkheads but the first bulkhead was very week and the bulkhead 'tabs' started to break so I had to put in a strengthening piece between them and attempted to remove after the planking had been finished.
  5. Thunder
    Thanks Coxwain, I got to the scale quite differently converting to millimetres first then dividing one by the other. Always seems a shame that we have left imperial behind and yet it is still used in America. I had to work on American packaging machines in the past and had to dig out my Grandad's old spanners to take to work as nothing was to hand. I know what you mean about these old kits but did question whether it should be built or left as a collectors piece - but it was meant to be built. I have found reference to an HMS Endeavour kit by Trident Models that I would love to get hold off and keep an eye out for the Nonsuch by Aeropiccola. But I have purchased many old kits that were very poor and sold on. These could not have done much for advertising the hobby back in the day.
  6. Thunder
    That looks great, well worth doing and nothing to stop you leaving some of the hatch covers off to make sure it can be seen.
  7. Thunder
    Started to fix bulkheads in place using the Hobby Zone Professional Building slip. My wife purchased this directly from the Polish website as it was out of stock in the UK. Arrived very quickly. The only issue I had was pin length. They protruded very slightly out of the base. Unfortunately I didn't notice till after I dragged it across my refurbished oak desk. Scratches still to be polished out. Each bulkhead was checked for fit, correct heights from the bearding line to the top of the bulkheads, that they were perfectly central and heights on each side. To assist with this I marked the lines across the bulkhead support on the building slip. Each time the support had to be moved it was checked with a square to make sure it was true. My old Billings slip had slides to assist in keeping things square. As you can see on the first three photographs I have added these to mine.
  8. Thunder
    Ply keel sections applied as shown above, unfortunately this does add to the, already exposed, edge of the ply. I have listed the kit as 1:48 scale but the drawings state 1/4" to the foot. I know that it was a kit produced in the 70's but being a 70's child imperial is pretty much lost on me. Even though I have spent my life in Engineering it is something that I have never really become fluent in (Mainly Electrical Engineering). So if someone can confirm the scale please? Next step was to fix the bulkheads in place. I checked the supplied bulkheads against the modelling plan sheet and all of them were poorly cut. I also compared them to the ship plans on the other sheet and they didn't match here either. As the positions didn't match up perfectly I decided to go with the kit plans. I traced the shapes on to thick card and overlaid onto the bulkheads. At this point I found only 5 to be usable with some bolstering by applying strip to the edges and sanding back. I then noticed another big mistake I had made. I hadn't checked them to make sure that they were symmetrical to the centre line. I was now down to three originals. Ply was obtained and new bulkheads cut. As you can see the bulkheads do not have slots so needed careful marking out to ensure when fixed in place they were in correct alignment.
  9. Thunder
    The next step on this kit was to form the bearding line which was done in a more unusual way but saves cutting it in. Very fine 1mm 3 ply sheets were provided to cut out sections to simulate the keel and fixed to the keel section as shown below:
  10. Thunder
    Hello Peter, Welcome to the hobby its a great and all consuming great hobby. If it is nautical history that is of interest you get modelling, art, painting, books, museums etc, it just goes on and on. My wife is not so keen though!! Your stern looks very tidy, the only tip I would give is that you have some bevelling to do so I would mark the edges with black marker pen. If when fairing the edges you must leave the fore edge on the stern bulkheads and the aft edge on the bow bulkheads with a bit of black still showing you have not effected the hull shape. Did I mention that you need to learn a new way of talking as well! The picture below is not the pickle but the Chatham but you can see the black marking on the bow and stern bukheads. At the stern (back) I would of expected the bearding line to match the front or fore edge of the bulkheads so that after fairing the aft edge then matched the bearding as well. I have built this kit but it is a while ago and I cannot find the photographs of this stage. I am a little concerned about that part 12, and I seem to remember worrying about it when I built the ship. It seems too low even though you have the top correct. If you look at part 11 it is spot on with the edge nearest to the keel section spot on to the front bearding line and bottom edge of the first bulkhead. I would of expected 12 to follow the same line with its bottom edge in line with the first and second bulkheads. As it stands you have a lot of shaping to do of these parts but I am sure you will cope. It is sometimes easier to do some of it before gluing in place.
  11. Thunder
    The ring that the breech rope passes through prevents the rear trucks from inadvertently running over the breech rope during recoil. if this happened it would overset. Having the rope though it in this manner would stop it dropping slack between the button and the ring but like others have said, full force would be applied to this ring as the breech was fetched up tight. To reduce the force on this ring the breech ring in the bulwarks would have to be fixed above the front trucks, this would allow more force to pass through too the button of the cannon. The carronade, as shown in the constitution, was mounted on a slide so did not have the issue of the breech getting trapped under the trucks and as such did not need the ring. The real problem here is that the tackle is both outside and lower than the breech rope. Great for traversing the piece but if just wanting to run it out most of the effort would be used against the other tackle and forcing the cannon trucks into the deck. It also looks that the bulwark fixings go into a belaying pin rack instead of through the planking and into one of the beams. Also, remember you are probably going to want to remove the tackles before firing as you will only need the breech rope when the tackle bolts fail or rope snaps if you leave it in place.
  12. Thunder
    Hi Lou, yes it was ebay. I noticed you have Corel's Resolution. They listed this as a cutter but is obviously a sloop. I have built this and thoroughly enjoyed it. I noticed you are going to remodel. Recently I brought a book on naval sloops and there was drawings of HMS Ferret. This I noticed was very close to the Corel kit.
  13. Thunder
    So, first stage of the build. First checked keel section and 'deck' section against the model plans and then to the ship plans. To clarify this, the the first plan shown above I will describe as ship plans as these replicate the plans at the NMM. The third set are like you would get in your average kit. Why he didn't just use the ship plans to make the bulkheads I will never know, unless it is to make it harder to check the accuracy. The 'deck' and keel only needed minor modification to match the model plans. More work was required to correct the slots for the bulkheads and to get correct alignment between the two. Thank fully most slots were too narrow and care in opening also corrected the alignments. Before any one spots it, the 'deck' plan is the wrong way round in the photograph. I say deck but it is a bulkhead stabiliser. Why he didn't put it in the position of the false deck I do not know, other than it is too thick to gain the deck curvature both larboard to starboard or fore and aft.
  14. Thunder
    Above is the parts list, not sure what type of paper made off but something had been eating it away. Found this note inside. Obviously never came to hand as were not in the kit. Also ages the kit to 1975 when I was 5 years old! Would love to know why that first owner did not build it and if he returned the kit. Did not live far from me either.
  15. Thunder
    Now for some, poor photographs of parts as supplied: Some of those part bags just contain small pieces of different sized blocks of wood. So far I have not identified any use for them at all.
  16. Thunder
    Some photographs of the plans:
  17. Thunder
    The kit came with most of the usual parts that you would usually expect but no dowelling for the masts. These were not missing, it actually states this on the box. Strange that it should have blocks and rigging thread. Kit photographs below: Above is the booklet by Bill Shoulder that, with plans, could be purchased separately. These show a Clinker built hull which I believe was 'out of favour' by this time.
  18. Thunder
    It is some time since I did a model log as I do not generally have the time or remember to take the required photographs as I complete the build - or should I say - do not have the self discipline. This build is no different but as it is an unusual kit I have decide to share it so far. This is not the usual kit you will find on the shelves in a store, although I have found reference to it on this site. I purchased this, as I have done many other, by impulse through a well known auction site. Little did I know what I was taking on. The kit comes with very good drawings and detailed instructions by Bill Shoulder and the main reason for buying it, apart from my love of Cutters, is the description that implies that the kit was produced to provide something of a higher standard than a normal kit and for a 'museum' standard. This coupled with the model shipwright name made me believe this to be a quality kit. Also, I have had it 'in stock' for some time and Chuck's kit was not produced at the time. I believed it to offer more than the Lady Nelson or Sherbourne kits.
  19. Thunder
    If you look at pictures of HMS Victory's decks you will see that the trenails are lighter than the planks and hardly noticeable. Of course you would be better looking at her Orlop deck as the upper decks are not original and you would probably find that they are in fact plugs, inserted into counterbored holes and covering the fixing screws. With a plug used in the modern way for fitting boarding the grain would run the same way as the planking. A trenail would have its grain along its length. Consequently the end grain would be visible on its exposed end and result in a variation in colour. I am not sure if the same wood was used as the trenail would need to withstand being forced into place and so would have to have a close grain. I am not able, at present, to check any of my reference books to confirm this. If you can hardly see them at full scale then they would be even less noticeable at your model's scale.
  20. Thunder
    Hi, Probably one of the hardest ships to plank at the bow so wouldn't get so worked up as come good in the end. I wish I had a workshop like that.
  21. Thunder
    Snow, the Spanish were there as well. One book very worth looking out for is HMS Victory by Kenneth Fenwick. not just about the battle of Trafalgar but a history of all the ships called Victory. Trafalgar - eye witness accounts - Tom Pocock Trafalgar - Alan Schom Nelson - Christopher Hibbert the list could be endless.
  22. Thunder
    In what stage of her life are you wanting to depict her? Paint schemes also varied for different periods. The picture looks more like an early period which is at odds with what looks like copper plating. If you want to have 'varnished' sides with a band of blue on the outer side of the bulwarks then the bottom of the hull (below the water line) would usually be white. If you want Nelson's period then the Yellow ochre band would be the width of the gun ports. Of course there was always variations and a lot is down to what you personally want.
  23. Thunder
    Jim, Is it a capacitor start or does it also use it for capacitor run? If only for start is it possible that it did not switch out and hence cause the overheat of both capacitor and motor. It doesn't appear that Janet was particularly overloading the motor.
  24. Thunder
    Blue Ensign, I have just looked at your version of this build and it is nothing less than brilliant!
  25. Thunder
    Hi, there is only one sprue that is different between the two and that is the one with the name plate. Most Heller kits have at least one second kit that does this. The Phenix and Sirene are the same kit although very different when completed. Why not build it as in British service?

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