Thunder
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Everything posted by Thunder
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Hello Philo, Are the drawings behind your model on the last two pages pictures form the instructions? I have seen one of these kits online and am tempted to purchase. It is of another ship and have only seen the box artwork. I would like to get an idea from your kit whether the box artwork and instructions are a fair representation of what can be produced with the parts. What feel did you get regarding this? Can I also ask about the bulkheads provided, I know from the text that yours may of been damaged by the earlier 'breaking down' of the kit, but it looks like some may be incorrectly sized, badly cut or in the wrong order. Is this how the kit provided them. It gives an idea of the kit quality. I hope you enjoyed your build and are moving on to the next member of your fleet. Adrian
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Inspiring build!! In your opinion which of the kits is the best in regards to accuracy and quality?
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- cutty sark
- billing boats
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I certainly wouldn't risk a soldering iron near the hull, it can only lead to disaster. I wouldn't like to drill them out either. Could you cut them off leaving a pin protruding? Then have a hole in the end of your chain plate to go over the pin. Finish the top of the pin with a drop of cyno gel glue so that once dry it looks like the head of a fixing, paint black and job done. The chain plate should come down to the hull then be fixed with two such fixings running down the hull at same angle to the mast as the shroud, so if worried about fixing strength, the second fixing should cope, any tighter and you will warp the plastic mast anyway.
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- plastic
- soleil royal
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Great model, very well executed. These little pyro kits are ace!
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- plastic
- r.c. anderson
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So, instead of starting from the whale down and then from the keel up, you would start from the whale down, then from the next line up, then from that line down, then from the next line up, and so on. I think that would even more easily and keep the lay of the planks in a more natural condition. What do you think? I think what you have described above is more or less the way that a real ship would of been planked. Saying that, I always plank on these lines but it rarely makes it easier. My order of planking is, Wale Positions, Garboard strake, main wale up, I then divide the lower hull into sections with naturally placed planks and plank in sections removing the original 'naturally placed' planks as I go. Divide areas by plank width to get amount of planks needed at widest part. You can then calculate taper of each end of plank. Even better use proportional dividers. Adrian
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I have had the same from caldercraft but after ringing them it was replaced with some of much better quality. So they do have it which says something for their quality control.
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I love that sea, she will struggle to make headway there, really got her head down beating against the tide.
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Hi, I have done many Heller kits and only sent for parts once. They sent replacement but this was 20 years ago. What use to annoy me was the duplication of parts to fabricate another kit for little expense. Left you wondering which if any were representative of a real ship. With regard to sails, you will often see he main sail set but the fore furled. Erhaps you could do this.
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I wouldn't worry about that so much. With laser cut you will have black eding to clean up but for the bulkheads you can use this to stop you removing too much when shaping them to the curve of the hull. I would pick the kit taking into account your interest, hull shape having easy lines, overall quality and instructions.
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Good choice, I would have to look at other ships in the same class to change the name though.
- 75 replies
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- Caldercraft
- Supply
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Oh dear you have some fiddly work to do. Might be worth making a jig with pins in a board set to the deadeye spacing and mast height. Then you can make them and apply in one piece. It won't be accurate to how should be rigged but your order is out now anyway. Supply is as intricate as most kits just one less mast or more detail. If you have successfully built this then I would just take what you fancy. Hull shape of ships like the Endeavour would be tricky but not too much different. Something like Granado or Caroline?
- 75 replies
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- Caldercraft
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Bryan, I would consider doing your shrouds and ratlines on now while you still have finger room as your stays and back stays will get in the way. Also, if you look up the ' order of dressing the masts and yards' rigging to me and you, shrouds went round the head first before stays and back stays, however, fore stays are useful to prevent the shrouds pulling the mast out of align whilst rigging. This is something I learnt with plastic kits where I would rig temporary fore stays to higher up the mast doubling and then rig them correctly after the shrouds were in place.
- 75 replies
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- Caldercraft
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Hi, my first kit was the Resoloution by Corel but didnt want to spoil it so got the Racehorse and built that first. Unfortunatly have to agree that it is an awful kit. I stuck with it, made a lot of modifications and it turned out reasonably well. so stick with it as it is useful for practice. It is about as Inaccurate as it can possibly get but you can find pictures of earlier bomb vessels that are very simular. Interestingly the vessel Nelson was in was Carcuss, the sister ship to this was called Thunder. The nearest vessel in design was an earlier Thunder, I decided to rename mine Thunder of 1747.
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I would do the first layer correctly for the experience but also, the better you make the first layer then the easier will be the second. If you bodge it then use lots of filler and then sand how will you ensure both sides are the same and you may end up sanding all the way through in places. The less filler the better I would say.
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Hi, will have a sort out and see what photographs I can find.
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Hi just spotted your log. Not sure if anyone already given you this advice but I built this model many years ago and there is an airfix guide book that when used guides on the build, lots of modifications and step by step rigging. They are often on ebay. They are by Noel C L Hackney. He also did a book for the Mayflower and the Victory. I had all three and used his methods for all my future builds. I will see if I can find photographs of my builds to show the difference they make. The victory kit still has pride of place next to my wooden ship builds and 20 years on I still use it as a rigging reference.
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- cutty sark
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scroll saw proxxon ds 460
Thunder replied to michael101's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi, I have a proxxon scroll saw and that is exactly as it sounds. If you consider they are sometimes called a vibro saw then that kind of explains the noise. -
Hello Bryan, excellent choice of kit. I built this, unfortunately what I put on this site was lost. Just watch one of rear bulkheads. One of mine was too small so had to do a lot of work to correct. You can see the same fault on some other builds. Bryan, you are not far from me if you wanted to look as this build or the William kit. I am only in Burton on Trent.
- 75 replies
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- Caldercraft
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My first kit, the racehorse, was from this same range as the president, and was awful. It was as inaccurate as you can get for that ship but some research showed very simular vessels from a much earlier period. I modelled it as the 1740's vessel Thunder. I did find a strenuous connection . Nelson was not on the racehorse but was on the Carcuss. This was of the bomb vessel class Blast. When I checked the lines for Blast it was an earlier version that the model more closely represented. Timber was poor as were the fittings. However, it taught me a lot about planning and I did enjoy it. I would say go with it but don't let it put you off.
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Hi, just looked, if you go to jotika website then construction photographs there is 12 pages through the construction.
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- Caldercraft
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Hi, I own the kit but have not yet started it. The contents look good quality especially the gun casting. Instructions are the later more in depth type as are the drawings. Is there a build log for this one on the jotika website? They did for their later kits.
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Chuck, this is a brilliant and informative build log. I have a kit of HM Naval Cutter Speedy which was produced in the early 70's back when the UK was still imperial, and it appears to have the square tuck stern. It will be my next build so your log is a godsend.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Anybody built these kits - moved by moderator
Thunder replied to latestarter's topic in Wood ship model kits
When building the Chatham the wood was excellent. I then built pickle and the walnut second planning kept losing its edge. On the supply the second planning was the same but deck planning was even worse as it was different sizes. They replaced this very quickly. They have told me I am storing in too dry a house and should keep some water in the area I store them but doesn't seem to have made a difference. -
Looking forward to following this build. I built the Pickle straight from the box and agree that it doesn't have the right feel to it. Is very English and conservative looking. I have the plans to HMS Berbice by KHM which are very much like you describe. I am planning to make that my first scratchbuild.... one day!!
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- pickle
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Bryan, mine has t hat reference number but is different from yours and no name plate. Deck furniture is different also. Adrian.
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