Thunder
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Everything posted by Thunder
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Hi, there were other reviews that he did that did not appear in the books but were published in the Model Boats magazine. You used to be able to view them on their website.
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Once I got her ready for the first planking I put her aside. I new we were going away for Christmas. Just my wife, myself and our two border collies in a little cottage in Norfolk. We stopped near to a beach which has the biggest seal colony in the UK with 2050 seal pups born between Christmas and November. I new it would be quite with just the beaches and a pub within a minutes walk so took the kit with me. So below is the first planking complete.
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Shopping on eBay: A Primer for Newbie Ship Modelers (Parts 1 and 2)
Thunder replied to ccoyle's topic in Wood ship model kits
I have had some great deals on ebay but occasionally been totally ripped off. On the whole, if you do your home work, most sellers are good and if you encounter a problem are helpful. But I have had some that have lied to questions and sold kits knowing they have missing parts. I have also sold a lot of items and in my experience buyers are far worse. This includes time wasters, buyers that do so just for fun of not paying or complaining, removing parts and then returning and even one that has made threats because I wouldn't send an item even though he didn't pay. This one even left me negative and it didn't get sorted to another seller took out a legal injunction against him. Latest was someone buying furniture who then didn't want it because she was homeless! With the ebay fees it is often not worth the hassle. -
Hi, was wondering if the straight edge, which should be curved, had any char from the laser? If not it is likely that the timber was too small or not placed on the datums correctly and the laser ran over the edge. You have a small section on the RHS missing.
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The windlass would have the anchor cable directly wrapped two turns round it. on larger vessels the capstan did this function where the rope around the capstan was the messenger. This was an endless rope that was tied to the anchor cables by young boys. the action was called nipping and the boys 'nippers'. The anchor rope was too large to go directly round the capstan. You would bring either into use for heavy tasks if needed.
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I also remember having a book about the Mary Celeste which had a plan in it but unfortunately leant it to someone and it never got returned. I can't remember the author, unfortunately. There was also a tv program which showed the design.
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Hi, Spotted this by accident when searching for something else and remembered your post.
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Hi, have read all the Alexander Kate and Dudley Pope but much prefer the Richard Woodman's series of books on nautical of the same era.
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From what I can see the Dusek Golden Hind looks more like the Mayflower where as the Mamoli Golden hind is more comparable to a three masted Revenge. Which is right I do not know.
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Some Constructo kits sold at Cornwall Model Boats but not the Pandora.
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yes, but if you look at it differently, if she hadn't of sank we wouldn't have her at all. She would of been broken up or rotted away.
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Unless there is a specific reason I would of expected the Fore mast to mirror the main. The Mizzen is a different story due to the crossjack and some of the rigging will lead forward rather than aft. If you know what specific items of rig they are I might be able to see in the anatomy of the ship book.
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I know that all of Cook's ships were originally colliery brigs but Adventure and Resolution were converted to have a full head (similarly to Bounty) replacing the Cat type bow. It may be that this model represents Endeavour anyway.
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I think Spyglass means that where the two parts of the gun port strips join is further back than on other builds. I am not sure as not built this but it seems crazy that this would not be designed to occur at a bulkhead position. His reference to the bows is in regard to the fact that if the joint was further forward then it would affect the termination of the gun port strip at the bow. However, your termination of the strips at the bow looks perfect. This means either: The gun port strips are some how too long Design of kit is poor and that join of the strips does not occur at a bulkhead position. Your forward bulkheads have been sanded too much giving a much sharper run in to the bow and hence less length of gun port strip required. However, doubt this as you would of noticed when fitting the false deck. Looking at your work, I would think number 2 above but anyway it is looking great so I would just carry on as you are.
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I have attached the stern Facia followed by the stern counter. Facia has been sanded down to match ply gun port strips. The triangular corners have been filled and shaped. Done so first planking can terminate up against the filler and second go over it.
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Hi, thanks Jason, Joe, I seem at least to have the same issues as others. I wondered if I was supposed to shape the rear bulkheads more but his would mean taking more of the stern facia and it would be getting very near to the edge of the chase ports. I noticed you have had to pack out the second from last bulkhead. I have just done that as well. These are simple things that they could of put right years ago after all it is a programmed c.n.c. machine that cuts these sheets. It also shows how useless or biased the kit reviews are. This can be damaging to the hobby as a new starter would of took this as an ideal kit judging by the Keith Julier review only to give it up as a bad job. I have the Diana on my shelf so thanks for the heads up.
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Now I have a real issue that I hope someone can help me with. I have cut out the bulwark capping strips to check the bulwark shape before gluing on the stern section. The stern fascia does not match the plans in shape or size. The bulwark capping do not match the shape and seem to have an strange inward curve just after the last gun port. I could take measurements for the same dimension off two drawings, however, there is 10mm difference between the two. This is the same issue as found on other Caldercraft models - very frustrating. I am not sure whether to bend in the gun port strips, try to bend the capping strip or replace the rear of it with a new section. Capping strips, and subsequently stern fachia dimension measured from plan. Supposed same dimension measured from rear. Stern Fascia and counter on drawing. Stern counter in reality giving two awkward small triangles that will require filling to give a landing for the planking.
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Bulwark / gun port ply strips in place. I took numerous measurements for this as the instructions say to place at top of bulkhead tabs but mine are at different heights. The lines show gun port mid position and deck height. I had real issues with getting a good curve, I soaked the strips for two hours but they still bent more easily at the gun port positions, I am hoping I can sort this out or they will have to come off again. Before clamping in position I double checked the gun port height by making up one cannon with strips of deck material under the wheels.
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Final photographs, I used the dimensions for masts and yards from the anatomy of the ship alert and a combination of kit rigging plans and from the book. This shows the extreme height of the masts when built to the book which compares more with my more recent speedy. The top mast looks strange set behind rather than in front of the mast but this is how shown in Alert.
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Finished deck details
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Jumped straight to hull complete - sorry Scratch building the stern gallery and quarter light badges would vastly improve this kit.
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Thanks everyone especially Lou. I am a fair to middling builder and your work on the Providence shows you to be an accomplished builder. A difficult kit to view and not a lot of point as I may never see another. It was strange as having no materials for masts or yards but had all the rigging blocks. She is also only single planked which means you have to be careful. It really was more of a scratch build than a kit. The old wood was a joy to work with.
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Easy bit before moving on. Mast support pieces glued onto the keel. However, glue alone will never hold these so each had two 1mm wood screws used to fit securely.
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The next question is with the plank termination patterns between first two and to fore of first bulkhead. Drawing shows planking started but take notice of the plank termination pieces. Surely this will never work. I shaped to match the bulkheads.
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Fairing of the bulkheads in progress a bow and stern. They were roughly sanded prior to gluing in place.
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