Thunder

Although I know some Merlin engines were built in Glasgow I thought it was developed at Rolls Royce in Derby England. My family lived in Derby during the war and the factory made it a target for the Luftwaffe. Welcome James.

Do the sails have a 'canvas like' texture? I tended to paint the sails with a light linen colour. Then mix a paint 'wash' of a diluted light brown. Paint over the sail allowing to run into the moulded creases etc. Just prior to becoming completely dry, (just a few seconds), take a tissue and wipe off the raised areas and centre of the sail. This highlights the deeper areas and, if done correctly, can make some areas seem faded as if worn through use. I might do this three or four times till I get the look I want. I might vary for each sail to highlight some as more worn than overs, remember topsails would see the most use. I might, if the mouldings show sails as 'bolts' of cloth, pick out certain sections differently. It is best to get some photos or paintings of ships under sail to keep at hand whilst you work for reference.

I leave the painting of my models to completing plastic or resin kits, and then here is the curve ball as in this case I would strive to make most of it look like wood. I have only painted one wooden model but that was because of the era being predicted this is my least favourite of my models. It really depends on what you want. I do not consider wooden kit building in the same league because most modellers of cars etc would paint it but also strive to make it look like a replica of the real thing. Therefore they would also weather it and use painting techniques such as applying washes, stippling etc. Where as your paintwork is good it looks too clean and does not have depth (just my opinion). For me it still does not look authentic. For this reason I categorise wood model ship building differently to using plastic etc. Wood is more about the build process. Other mediums are more about the authentic painting etc. This is kind of proven when you see someone building a ship such as Gorch Foch out of wood. In this case painted plastic would look far more accurate. I would also disagree that ships were all painted, pre 1800's when paint was very expensive wouldn't they have been ''paid' or varnished. In the case of your model above I would probably paint the same apart from the lower hull which I feel is more authentic varnished. This of course is only an opinion and it is about what each individual wants to get from their hobby. My opinion is that you have to be careful with painting not to make it look like a toy.

Hi, That's what I thought, the threat to trade was primarily the Barbary Pirates.

Hi, Does this ship still need a home? I live local to the lady?

Yes, been to a village location in Dorset that was abandoned after the Barbery pirates took the community into slavery and this was late 1700's. Nothing there to tell you about it. Wasn't the original reason for the USS Constitution being built to protect her ships from the same fate?

I think the diversity rarely spread further than the seafaring community. There is quite good coverage of this in Nelson's period and particularly at Trafalger. However, you only have to look at the influence behind designs of castles and who was contracted to build them to see that this was nothing new in the Tudor times. Remember that it also had not been long since we had developed Mediterranean practices for building ships , carvel, to allow us to have gun ports.

I wasn't surprised to find that there would be persons from many different backgrounds and nationalities on the ship, after all Matthew Cabot was Italian and we had been trading with Africa and Asia for hundreds of years. Evidence from the Vikings shows this. I hated the program. It could of been excellent but as usual these days it was produced to fuel certain persons agendas with little regard to history. I hate any prejudism and positive is just as poor. The outcome of the whole program was obvious from the start when the program's second sentence was to the effect of that it would be great if the persons on board were black. His last sentence of the program was that he had spent his whole career trying to prove that persons of African origin were living in Britain during Tudor times. Hardly makes him unbiased. The scientific evidence was not much better. I was doing the deck planking on cruiser by this time so may of missed it but most of us have African origin in our DNA it is usually very low but we did all descend from the same people. So when the first tests suggested British they dug deeper. Finding the descendants of Grenville was the same, the excited little dance when one of possible hundreds of people found was a woman. It didn't say much for facial reconstruction techniques either did it. How wrong were they the first time!! Can't say I am surprised with the program but then it wouldn't of been aired if the results were different. I suppose, taking the risk to speak about what I thought of it will make people think I am prejudiced my self but I am not. Just would like History to be researched properly and not be bent to the demand of modern thinking. But I suppose history has always been written that way.

Definitely do not go back to that idea. It will just mean lots of half finished models and despondent people leaving the hobby. We left that behind long ago and need to encourage people back.

Chris, I wouldn't go to the bother of causing extra work by having two versions for that and two versions of box artwork etc. Just provide an inner and out ring to be cut out on your false deck and add the alteration and flags. The dowel for the topgallant masts could be used for the flag staffs. I recently finished my Royal Caroline with stub masts. They are not glued in so if I want to return to her and complete the rig they just need pulling out. The bowsprit just needs modifying and gammoning is in place.

Those bottom photographs are the paintings of the model commissioned for the king of the time and this model would be top of the list for me. I am wondering if would be ready for my big 50 birthday so I can ask the good lady now (18 months time).

Bellona-yes would be interested but due to size would have to build as a hull only kit. Would want her as built rather than later in career. Victory - yes interested but only of the as built version. 50 gun Portland class - definitely and now I know the date of vessel proposed would be a good compliment to Mordaunt instead of wanting to sell her. I would like as in the painting of the model of Portland i.e. decorative stern gallery and frieze / ginger bread work. I have been in the process of buying a new side board for the lounge. The wife has not worked out yet that the size I have asked for is to accommodate a very large model on top. She will be pleased!!

Chris, does this mean I need to sell my Mordaunt kit to make way for your next model?

Do you really think that would work? Has Chris got an army of pickers for packing all the items? It sounds great but surely that is a scratch build parts service. A lot of people buy a kit because they don't want to do all that. The inventory of parts would have to be massive as they weren't that standardised, so you will end up using nearest fit. Isn't that what we complain about with the poorer kits. Sounds idyllic, and I would love it, not sure if would work other than offering all the parts from a current kit and then this list growing as the kit list grows. But this already happens.

She is looking great. You are making a great job of her.

Hi, Great build. I have built many of these small Pyro Kits and you do have to take them for what they are. However, have always been on the look out for this one. Only seen it once and they really did want stupid money for it. I have built: Bon Homme Richard Dutch Staten Jacht Venetian Carrack Roman Merchant Half Moon La Reale But gave up on their larger scale Gouda. If you have enjoyed the Bomb Ketch then keep your eye out for the others.

Heller kits vary a lot between kits. They have the nasty habit of producing a good kit then modifying it for the second. The second tends to be rubbish. Also, the first tends to have a basis in an actual vessel. I have built a few and by far the best was Le Superbe, the worst was the Spanish Gallion. Kits that are from the same mould are: Gallion, Elizabethan, stella Le Phenix ( from Colbert plans) and Sirene Superbe and Glorieux Gladiator and Indomitable Possibly more.

Second planking working down. One full strake and then another drop strake Started working up from garboard and down as well. One strake left on each side and stealers to do.

As second planking completed down to the lower position of the wales I am expecting things to get more difficult from here. It is obvious that too plank the next section down the planks would have to be tapered more than half its width. Consequently drop strakes will be needed at the bow. I decided to drop one in straight away. First strake tapered to 2mm. Next strake down ready to fit. 2mm wide at end and then 2mm where the first strake ended. Take a look at the stem. This design has it flush with the termination of the second planks above the wale position. I can find no evidence for this being correct. Also, it would look a lot better if I added a section of timber here.

Hi Chris, was expecting more answers to your last post. However, these are my thoughts: You have two markets and this type of vessel could be seen as a good beginners kit. Therefore I would suggest the standard wood and threads as no beginner is going to want to spend a fortune. They might not even understand how beneficial it is to buy a well designed kit. On the other hand the kit is designed to meet a very high standard which would appeal to the market on here. A lot of the persons on here, including myself, might not have the facilities to scratch build but want a kit something better than the average mass produced kit. We are fed up with the usual wood and threads and the cost of replacement. Also, the difficulties in obtaining them replacements. Consequently the options are: Try to provide for both markets - more stock for you and boxing issues. Do the standard version by wholesale and the deluxe version mail order direct. Reach a happy medium - at risk of not selling to either. Stick to the normal market and standard - lots of competition. Also, for timber and threads I think you should be looking to source from places other than those directed to on here. You need to buy at cost so can you look direct to manufacturers? Understand this might not be possible with first kit as they may want you to buy in bulk.

probably to allow for the fact that if you want to plank in the way of how it was really done there would still be some sideways twisting and as such some 'clinker effect'. If too thin you would sand through. If the planks were wider they could be shaped tapered better to prevent this but that would be more costly than the timber being slightly thicker.

Simon, where do you get boxwood from in the uk?

Would it be possible, as a smaller and more high range model producer, to provide upgrade wood choices to those requesting it. I would except that you could not stock all woods and so it would incur an extended delivery time and handling fee. The standard kits could be sold through the normal outlets as the method of providing your regular sales. It would prevent these piles of Walnut and Tanganika that I don't know what to do with other than throw away. Cherry, pear, box or beach for hull planking and maple, lime or box for the deck. You would have to limit choices to stop it getting silly. Incidentally I have just brought an old kit which strangely has Tanganika for the hull planking but Walnut for the deck! Not sure that is going to look right.

Completely agree regarding walnut being too dark, it also is not that nice a material to plank with. I would change it every time but it is getting replacement stock for the keel sections in other materials that has proved the problem. At least if you have to buy from a hobby stockist. I have never liked Tanganika for the decks and have kept some to plank the hull on one of my future models as the colour looks far more suited to that.

Hi, I am currently doing Cruiser which is essentially the same kit. Yours looks to be going together better so far. I have done a few logs which might show some of the problems I have had but you are already catching me up. The worst failing I am finding is that there is not enough bulkheads to properly hold the planking to the right shape. I am doing the second layer now and there is nothing to pin though to other than the first layer. This is just where the planks need pushing up together to prevent the small gaps between. Telling you this as you still have the chance to pack between the bulkheads.