homer

Then I started working on the Main Hatch, the chain Bitt and the Fife Rail etc. One of the two metal bilge pumps was broken in the package before I opened it. I know ModelExpo would replace it but I decided to use part of it, solder on another piece then mount it onto the pad below the fife rail. 
 
I just went to upload the pics of this and realize I didn't take any pics!! I will snap a few and upload them shortly! 
 
 
 
 

Moving on, I built the work bench, chicken coop and the duck / water pen. I did end up cutting off one of the handles on the grinding stone. I also attached the vice to the work bench but don't ask me why I painted it Red! I also thought it would look better if I made one of the work bench drawers in the open position. I'll post these pics below:
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've been able to spend a little time on the build in the evenings. I completed the Tri -Works, Cooling Tank and Scrap Hopper. Didn't have any copper sheeting to make the cooling tank so I used card stock and painted it copper color and then used some aging powder to give it a bit of a dirty look. I need to change the chain attachment that is seen in the picture as it doesn't go well. I'll post my build pics of these below:
 
 

Looking good John! I can't wait until I get to this point (prob in another 6 to 12 months!!!). I worked on the rudder today and will probably remake the sky light. I'll upload some pics to bring mine up to date. Take care. Ron 

Looking good John! I can't wait until I get to this point (prob in another 6 to 12 months!!!). I worked on the rudder today and will probably remake the sky light. I'll upload some pics to bring mine up to date. Take care. Ron 

Looking good John! I can't wait until I get to this point (prob in another 6 to 12 months!!!). I worked on the rudder today and will probably remake the sky light. I'll upload some pics to bring mine up to date. Take care. Ron 

I've been moving a bit slow on the Morgan build and haven't been able to give it as much time as I'd like. I've laid the deck planks, installed the pin rails and pins, cheek knees, head rails, billet head and have begun working on the deck fittings and the bowsprit. I will upload pics of the work completed to date. 
 
 
 

It's been a while since my last upload. Lots of things going on at home and I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the ship. But here and there I squeeze in an hour or so.  I was able to spend half of today working on it and have some pics to share.
 
I finished with the copper plates and painted the balance of the hull black. I then sprayed a matte finish on it. Then I finished up most of the outside part of the stern and painted it. 
 
I then finished installing the Waterway and Ceiling Planks. Admittedly, I struggled with the Ceiling Planks and had to use a little filler. I then installed the Log Rail and Top Gallant Rail. Again, I painted the exterior black. 
 
I then installed the Lashing Rail and decided to paint the inside now so I wouldn't have to tape off or make a mess after planking the interior. Today I worked on the supports that will go under the coamings for the Hatches, Skylight, Steerage companion, Tryworks and Forecastle. I also installed the deck insert for the Windlass. If I recall, the width of the scrap wood used for the supports was about 1/4" wide. 
 
I'll see if I can upload the pics to this work: 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

I've been moving a bit slow on the Morgan build and haven't been able to give it as much time as I'd like. I've laid the deck planks, installed the pin rails and pins, cheek knees, head rails, billet head and have begun working on the deck fittings and the bowsprit. I will upload pics of the work completed to date. 
 
 
 

It's been a while since my last upload. Lots of things going on at home and I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the ship. But here and there I squeeze in an hour or so.  I was able to spend half of today working on it and have some pics to share.
 
I finished with the copper plates and painted the balance of the hull black. I then sprayed a matte finish on it. Then I finished up most of the outside part of the stern and painted it. 
 
I then finished installing the Waterway and Ceiling Planks. Admittedly, I struggled with the Ceiling Planks and had to use a little filler. I then installed the Log Rail and Top Gallant Rail. Again, I painted the exterior black. 
 
I then installed the Lashing Rail and decided to paint the inside now so I wouldn't have to tape off or make a mess after planking the interior. Today I worked on the supports that will go under the coamings for the Hatches, Skylight, Steerage companion, Tryworks and Forecastle. I also installed the deck insert for the Windlass. If I recall, the width of the scrap wood used for the supports was about 1/4" wide. 
 
I'll see if I can upload the pics to this work: 

It's been a while since my last upload. Lots of things going on at home and I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the ship. But here and there I squeeze in an hour or so.  I was able to spend half of today working on it and have some pics to share.
 
I finished with the copper plates and painted the balance of the hull black. I then sprayed a matte finish on it. Then I finished up most of the outside part of the stern and painted it. 
 
I then finished installing the Waterway and Ceiling Planks. Admittedly, I struggled with the Ceiling Planks and had to use a little filler. I then installed the Log Rail and Top Gallant Rail. Again, I painted the exterior black. 
 
I then installed the Lashing Rail and decided to paint the inside now so I wouldn't have to tape off or make a mess after planking the interior. Today I worked on the supports that will go under the coamings for the Hatches, Skylight, Steerage companion, Tryworks and Forecastle. I also installed the deck insert for the Windlass. If I recall, the width of the scrap wood used for the supports was about 1/4" wide. 
 
I'll see if I can upload the pics to this work: 

Thanks Udo!!!

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

Oh, I also forgot to mention that I ordered the 2.5 Serving Machine from Alexy Damonoff. I'm pretty excited about this. I don't plan on making my own rope but this will definitely come in handy for serving etc.! 

Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go!
 
I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. 
 
The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you.
 
I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. 
 
I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. 
 
I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later???
 
Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow).  I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. 
 
I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
 
 

I've been moving a bit slow on the Morgan build and haven't been able to give it as much time as I'd like. I've laid the deck planks, installed the pin rails and pins, cheek knees, head rails, billet head and have begun working on the deck fittings and the bowsprit. I will upload pics of the work completed to date. 
 
 
 

I've been moving a bit slow on the Morgan build and haven't been able to give it as much time as I'd like. I've laid the deck planks, installed the pin rails and pins, cheek knees, head rails, billet head and have begun working on the deck fittings and the bowsprit. I will upload pics of the work completed to date. 
 
 
 

I've been moving a bit slow on the Morgan build and haven't been able to give it as much time as I'd like. I've laid the deck planks, installed the pin rails and pins, cheek knees, head rails, billet head and have begun working on the deck fittings and the bowsprit. I will upload pics of the work completed to date. 
 
 
 

Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go!
 
I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. 
 
The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you.
 
I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. 
 
I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. 
 
I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later???
 
Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow).  I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. 
 
I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
 
 

The build continues. I planked between the Planksheer and the Main Rail. Admittedly, I struggled at the bow. I only had to do some minor filling for now. I then took a small break and was messing around with how I will do the copper plates. I purchased some chemicals and applied then to the copper. I then made a bunch of plates on a copper strip and used Acrylic paint with very light strokes. 
 
Now, if you remember I very much like the look of the Charles Morgan on the box cover of Model Shipways box. I also did some intense searching and found two other Charles Morgan's built and one placed in a museum. It too had the same look at the box cover (it wasn't the same model). So, the jury is out how or which plates I'll use below the water line. I know what I want to do isn't true to form but darn it... I really like the look!  
 
I've uploaded some pics of where I'm at. On one you can see this jig I made to use the ponce wheel. But the jury is out on that too (I'm not that happy with it). Anyway, opinions welcome!!!! Ron /Homer

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

It's been a while since my last upload. Lots of things going on at home and I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the ship. But here and there I squeeze in an hour or so.  I was able to spend half of today working on it and have some pics to share.
 
I finished with the copper plates and painted the balance of the hull black. I then sprayed a matte finish on it. Then I finished up most of the outside part of the stern and painted it. 
 
I then finished installing the Waterway and Ceiling Planks. Admittedly, I struggled with the Ceiling Planks and had to use a little filler. I then installed the Log Rail and Top Gallant Rail. Again, I painted the exterior black. 
 
I then installed the Lashing Rail and decided to paint the inside now so I wouldn't have to tape off or make a mess after planking the interior. Today I worked on the supports that will go under the coamings for the Hatches, Skylight, Steerage companion, Tryworks and Forecastle. I also installed the deck insert for the Windlass. If I recall, the width of the scrap wood used for the supports was about 1/4" wide. 
 
I'll see if I can upload the pics to this work: 

I've been moving a bit slow on the Morgan build and haven't been able to give it as much time as I'd like. I've laid the deck planks, installed the pin rails and pins, cheek knees, head rails, billet head and have begun working on the deck fittings and the bowsprit. I will upload pics of the work completed to date. 
 
 
 

Beautiful work Bruce. I'm still working on mine and need to upload into my build log. I spent most of today working on the ship. Admittedly I had to set it aside for six weeks or so. It's just been so busy here and I haven't been able to give her the attention she deserves.