Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Thing is, it's dusty as hell, obscured by a bunch of bubble wrap and unused lengths of baseboard and cardboard floor covers for painting and sheetrock and even more baseboards. I'm not even sure it's been used in my lifetime. It'll be interesting to try out, though. Assuming it even works, it's the only power tool I'll need, save for a drill. -
Alright guys, here are the rest of the keel frames. There are only four more frames to do, and those will be the stempost frames. I might take a different design path for those, as the modified semicircle shape won't suffice for a frame with a significant length and very little width. After I'm done making the frames, I'll cut them and the false keel out and slot them together to see if I'm happy with the overall hull shape.
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Looking back, I will be going with my original plan to plank the interior of the bulwarks. This will be achieved by placing the upper half of the main wale above deck level, to support and align the bulwark stanchions. Scuppers will be drilled into the upper part of the wale. lower and upper part of the bulwarks will be in-filled with, presumably, wood planking material. This will form the cap rail as well, being made up of two thin planks inside and outside the top of the bulwarks, filled and sanded. The eyebolts (?) for the shrouds will be inserted into the top of the bulwarks. The making up of the bulwarks (and all the planking in general) will occur after the deck is put in.
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Perhaps a research log? Baker says Constant regularly does this.
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I don't think there's a problem with talking about shipbuilding. I personally value the discussion about the specifics of the Mary Rose. However, this is Baker's build log, and he gets to decide what is necessary and what is not. The intention (as I interpret it) is not to ban you or discredit your valuable research, but simply to get along with the build. Personally, I am excited to see the forecastle! I hope no offense is taken from this response; none is intended. Cheers!
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This is one of the only good views of the deck of the Lizzie Annie, apart from the obstruction of the bow by the massive genoa sail. Look at the distinct absence of a cockpit. The designers worked around this by angling the tiller upward. This boat is small enough to be controlled by a man on the tiller, rather than requiring tiller gear. For that reason, I might be making the executive decision to exclude the cockpit on the Devin Collins. The main reason for this is to avoid unnecessary complications in the build, and simplify the framing. The lack of a cockpit leaves more room for other things on the boat, such as crates of ale or books for the deckhands to read while they wait for a large windjammer to enter the Bristol Channel. This cutter has a very small cockpit and no deckhouse: While this cutter has no cockpit and a tiny deckhouse: The recurring theme I notice in the realm of pilot cutters is a distinct lack of uniformity.
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You can prevent this by using filler blocks in some places, which also give the planking a greater surface area to adhere to.
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An accurate build is a good looking build. When it comes to ships, usually accuracy equates to beauty pretty well.
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This is the newly designed false keel, based on the revised drawings of the profile view of the cutter.
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Would you like to do some research on the real ship?
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The plan shown was not my own. It was a representation of what I wanted my bow to look like. I redesigned my own bow to reflect the online image. That picture is likely a photocopy, my designs are all drawn on paper with pencil. Go back and look at the original side profile of the boat. I hope that answers your question.
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Thank you for the recommendation. I will have to look into it. While this is a pilot cutter, other similar boats like the Lizzie Annie are equally valuable resources. The shallow hull sets the Devin Collins apart from other pilot cutters, and from what I've seen, all pilot cutters are unique.
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Why don't you start the build log for the Sherbourne and do some research while you wait? That's what I do.
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Another possibility that avoids the brass pin inserts is to cut a square hole at the edge of the planking at regular intervals (probably every other frame, will be determined after planking is on-ship) and insert the stanchions into the cutouts in the deck. A third option is to use JB-Weld on the bottoms of the stanchions. The first plank on the stanchions, directly above the wale, will be glued to the wale as well as the stanchions, increasing the structural soundness of the entire system.
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The drawings you're looking at are not my drawings or plans, but rather a representation of how the bow should look on my vessel.
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I have reevaluated the positioning of the main wale on the boat. I have also come up with a different way of attaching the stanchions for the upper bulwarks that does not require the wale to be above deck-level. The deck will be planked off-ship (this is non-negotiable as I already have working plans for that) and laid down on the tops of the frames. Then, with each frame still exposed, the stanchions will be positioned on top of the deck. This opens up new avenues for the scupper designs. Some smacks have an open area at deck level for water runoff, while others have proper scuppers. I will likely go the latter route. The Lizzie Annie has an unplanked area at deck level... ...while the cutter Kochi has proper scuppers. The plan is to drill holes and insert brass pins connecting the stanchions to the hull. The reason for this, apart from the scupper issue, is that the interiors of these cutters' upper bulwarks usually remain unplanked. Thus, the stanchions are to remain exposed when the upper bulwarks are planked and painted. I have rarely ever seen the main wale above deck level on an English smack.
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This is the redesigned bow: Eventually, I will have to do the design for the false keel cutout. The cutouts for the keel and frames will be glued on 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thick wood, and cut out via a band saw.
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Now, I am thinking of redesigning the stempost and lengthening the keel. It's not too late to do this, as I haven't designed the stempost frames yet. I will likely redesign it to reflect the bow shapes of the era. The straight-vertical bow will help with the planking process.
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This is the pilot cutter Pellew, a vessel that is significantly larger than either the Lizzie Annie or the Devin Collins. A point of note is the topmast stay and the fact that the jib is still on a traveler. This eliminates the need for furling ropes or manropes on the bowsprit. The second stay and taller mast both exist because the Pellew has a standing gaff topsail. I am sticking with a jackyard topsail as is flown on the Lizzie Annie.
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I have now made width measurements for all of the keel frames. The stempost frames will be more complicated owing to the fact that the heights of each frame are different. I will likely design these frames by hand, without the use of a compass.
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Best first model I've ever seen! I'm glad I was able to help you rig the ship. On to the next one!
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I have decided to reduce the rig in the interest of saving space for display. The intended display location is a bedroom-turned-library. This provides a unique challenge owing to the size of the model. Thus, the length of the bowsprit will probably be halved, or thereabouts. The height of the mast will likely be reduced by about 6 inches, and the length of the boom will extend not more than two inches from the transom. This is all subject to change, and should not be considered an exact science. The jackyard topsail will have to stay, assuming the rig is to be set. If the sails are to be furled, however, (which would be easier for me, and might even look better, but would sacrifice the WOW factor) then the height of the topsail yard stops being a factor.
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Apologies for the stalled progress on this build. I realized an error I will have to fix on the designs for the first 4 or 5 frames- I didn't draw the cutout for the cockpit! Anyways, the show will hopefully continue soon. The keel will be easy to design, as well as the rest of the frames up to the beginning of the stempost. There are, I believe, 4 stempost frames. I do not believe these vessels had any kind of cant frames or hawse pieces. It wouldn't need them, as this is a small vessel. I have changed my design for the shroud turnbuckles- they will be attached directly to either the outside of the hull or the top of the cap rail. I might buy my own pre-cut planking material for at least the deck. I have been recommended a hand planer to assist with the extensive fairing at the bow.
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Both members here are right about the flag halyard, but I have always rigged mine at the bulwark, owing to the fact that the boom does not have to swing as far as the gaff would.
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