Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Now, I am thinking of redesigning the stempost and lengthening the keel. It's not too late to do this, as I haven't designed the stempost frames yet. I will likely redesign it to reflect the bow shapes of the era. The straight-vertical bow will help with the planking process. -
This is the pilot cutter Pellew, a vessel that is significantly larger than either the Lizzie Annie or the Devin Collins. A point of note is the topmast stay and the fact that the jib is still on a traveler. This eliminates the need for furling ropes or manropes on the bowsprit. The second stay and taller mast both exist because the Pellew has a standing gaff topsail. I am sticking with a jackyard topsail as is flown on the Lizzie Annie.
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I have now made width measurements for all of the keel frames. The stempost frames will be more complicated owing to the fact that the heights of each frame are different. I will likely design these frames by hand, without the use of a compass.
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Best first model I've ever seen! I'm glad I was able to help you rig the ship. On to the next one!
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- Perseverance
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I have decided to reduce the rig in the interest of saving space for display. The intended display location is a bedroom-turned-library. This provides a unique challenge owing to the size of the model. Thus, the length of the bowsprit will probably be halved, or thereabouts. The height of the mast will likely be reduced by about 6 inches, and the length of the boom will extend not more than two inches from the transom. This is all subject to change, and should not be considered an exact science. The jackyard topsail will have to stay, assuming the rig is to be set. If the sails are to be furled, however, (which would be easier for me, and might even look better, but would sacrifice the WOW factor) then the height of the topsail yard stops being a factor.
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Apologies for the stalled progress on this build. I realized an error I will have to fix on the designs for the first 4 or 5 frames- I didn't draw the cutout for the cockpit! Anyways, the show will hopefully continue soon. The keel will be easy to design, as well as the rest of the frames up to the beginning of the stempost. There are, I believe, 4 stempost frames. I do not believe these vessels had any kind of cant frames or hawse pieces. It wouldn't need them, as this is a small vessel. I have changed my design for the shroud turnbuckles- they will be attached directly to either the outside of the hull or the top of the cap rail. I might buy my own pre-cut planking material for at least the deck. I have been recommended a hand planer to assist with the extensive fairing at the bow.
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Both members here are right about the flag halyard, but I have always rigged mine at the bulwark, owing to the fact that the boom does not have to swing as far as the gaff would.
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Belay to the port side bulwark if possible, not the deck.
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Looks just like the HMS Victory diagrams. You have done well!
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What a bad day to live in California! I wish I could contribute.
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How to see all profiles builds
Ferrus Manus replied to Isaiah's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
@GGibson If he wants to see a list of a specific member's builds, he can just go to that person and ask them for a list. This community is all too happy to show others their builds. I tried your technique, and the issue is someone might have posted in one or multiple non-build log forums, or may be referenced in logs other than their own. -
You should probably make stuff like this out of brass in the future, because it's easier to work with and can be chemically blackened.
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This might be one of the best looking custom-made fittings I've ever seen on a non-scratch ship.
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How to see all profiles builds
Ferrus Manus replied to Isaiah's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
I haven't found one. If you want to see all my builds, I can give them to you in a list. -
Don's wood. The framing, false keel, and likely a significant amount of the planking will be made from Don's wood. He is basically sending me raw materials, and I'm sending them back in the form of a model ship. I will be using a lot of my own materials and fittings, however. I will be buying my own blocks, rigging line, brass, turnbuckles, shackles, chain, cloth, etc.
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To be honest, the thickness and material of the stanchions doesn't matter, because they won't be seen under the interior planking. All I need is for them to all be a uniform width and height.
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Probably just regular planking. The bulkhead stanchions will be made using Don's wood (I still don't know exactly what type of wood that is, but he showed me a sample and it's perfect for both planking and framing) and I came up with an ingenious idea in the late hours of last night. When it comes time to plank, the upper half of the main wale will extend above the frames, serving as a further support for the stanchions. The stanchions will probably be 1/8 inch square, and a half inch tall. I could also use plastic card for this job, and fill in the rest of the inside area with wood of the same thickness.
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Today, we will design the first five frames of the Devin Collins. I began by taking measurements of the curve of the hull (as per the first shown diagram) and calculated the maximum width of each frame, then divided the totals by two. This extra width will account for the material taken from each frame during the fairing process. The transom is not listed as a frame, owing to its outward angle in relation to the false keel, as well as its width being half the width of a frame. Then, I began designing frames based on the measurements shown, as well as the total length from the deck to the bottom of the false keel. Remember, the amount of sanding that will be required on both the top and sides of the frames mean that the less-than-perfect measurements intrinsic in non-CAD designs will not end up mattering. This is also due in part to the relatively simple shape of the hull. The uprights shown on the frames are not part of the frame, but rather a placeholder for the stanchions that will support the bulwarks.
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This looks like a good setup for the rigging of the tiller.
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You might want to add tiller gear just for that extra touch of rigging.
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Your cleat knots and rope coils are the best I've seen in a while. Better than mine!! Good job, Isaiah!
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I am thinking I will start the design work for the frames soon. I have looked at various builds of 18th/19th century longboats, which the hull shape is most similar to. I have come up with a general pattern of frame design, based mostly on the longboats of the era. Hopefully, however, we will end up with a unique hull shape.
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At this point you're almost done with your brig, so I wouldn't have you change anything. However, for future reference, the rigging instructions for model ships are generally wrong, sometimes egregiously so. The rigging on beginner kits is sometimes simplified to the point of absurdity or complete non-functionality.
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Upon reading the rigging instructions for your Perseverance, I can definitively say that you should have thrown them away and went with what other people have been doing on the rigging of their brigs. Soon, you will develop the instinct to know what correct/incorrect rigging looks like.
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