Jaager

Hank,
 
One more addition to consider:
 
From a local glass supplier   two   12" x 18"  pieces of  1/4" tempered plate glass  with all edges and corners bevel ground.  If one is good, two is better.
A perfect working surface for everything except tasks that involve banging.  Glue spills or smears - single edge razor blades - precisely flat surface.
I bought mine back before Earth was discovered to be round, so I have no idea if the price is now out of reach.

A dining room style backed chair with a cushioned seat is worth a thought- for where is done, the constantly in one place, watch repair type work.
A backless stool (or two)  with big and at least 5 rollers  and easy height adjust.  Even with 5 rollers,  take care where you place your butt.  
That is unless you wish to practice  for a role in a "Help!  I've fallen and can't get up." commercial.  Those suckers will flip you in an instant.  
This is not theory. 
 
Home Depot  sells craft size pieces of 1" Styrofoam ( starfone in KY ) insulation.   Cut two brick or a bit larger blocks - that are the same size.  PVA glue them together and to a piece of 1/2" ply that has an apron on the four sides.     Poke deep holes in the top to fit hand tools. 
Things like pin vise drills , Kelly clamps,  scissors,  Sharpies,  knives, pencils, small hammers,...   keeps them to hand, but off the bench top.
 
Hot melt works more quickly - is a knee jerk thought, when quick is the only consideration - you really do not want to use hot melt on Styrofoam.

Kris,
 
About your thickness adjuster -  The ideal situation is one degree of freedom.  You may be challenging precision too much with 4 degrees of freedom.  Theory, and shoulda,  and oughta are sometimes at loggerheads with how it really is.  Keeping the table the same distance from the roller along the entire width/length  can be a challenge with any design.  I advise verifying at the extremes and in the middle.  
 

Hank,
 
Given where this is going to live,  an unfinished chair.   Again, I am not familiar present conditions, but before it was a fad, excellent quality could be had for not that much  money.
But that was back when good furniture was made just west of you in the Hickory area.  If you run out of steam for the environment project, a bare wood chair works as well as  one
that is stained and clear coated.

Sorry - the middle sentence is not logical.  I omitted a word.  It should read:
At least the boards that I have NOT had forever are stickered.  

Right now I am using it to store framing timber stock.  My lumber is well seasoned.  I resaw and then use a thickness sander to get it to final thickness. 
I sticker my lumber supply.  At least the boards that I have had forever are stickered.  Freshly milled lumber, even if kiln dried,  may not be as dry as it could be.
My harvested stock is billets.  It is shorter than 2 feet.  I keep it on shelves, not stickered.  Each layer is oriented 90 degrees to the one above and below.
But, once dry I don't see any need for air circulation, especially after it has been resawn. 
The box has one end secured using duct tape.  I pack as much wood into a box as it will hold.  I write a code for species and thickness on all 4 sides at the
end that opens..  Then lay it flat. 
Oh,  to save work later, I write the decimal thickness (without the dot) on each plank.  It is on both sides at each end.  I use chalk.  I have white and color chalk. White does not
show very well on Maple.  It rubs off easily later.
I try not to use AC, although this year the mid July to early August heat wave was too much for my condo's version of 4/40 air.  It is two floors with a sliding glass door on each.
On the Bay, it is humid.  I use no humidifier in the Winter.  I do not measure it, but I suspect that compared to yours, my range in humidity must resemble a windshield wiper.  
Still, I do not worry about it as far as the condition of the stored wood.  The tight packing stops any cupping.  I work slowly enough that there is equilibrium. 
 
In your place, i would wonder if the Castelo  was still a bit wet when it was purchased. 

Hank,
 
One more addition to consider:
 
From a local glass supplier   two   12" x 18"  pieces of  1/4" tempered plate glass  with all edges and corners bevel ground.  If one is good, two is better.
A perfect working surface for everything except tasks that involve banging.  Glue spills or smears - single edge razor blades - precisely flat surface.
I bought mine back before Earth was discovered to be round, so I have no idea if the price is now out of reach.

Right now I am using it to store framing timber stock.  My lumber is well seasoned.  I resaw and then use a thickness sander to get it to final thickness. 
I sticker my lumber supply.  At least the boards that I have had forever are stickered.  Freshly milled lumber, even if kiln dried,  may not be as dry as it could be.
My harvested stock is billets.  It is shorter than 2 feet.  I keep it on shelves, not stickered.  Each layer is oriented 90 degrees to the one above and below.
But, once dry I don't see any need for air circulation, especially after it has been resawn. 
The box has one end secured using duct tape.  I pack as much wood into a box as it will hold.  I write a code for species and thickness on all 4 sides at the
end that opens..  Then lay it flat. 
Oh,  to save work later, I write the decimal thickness (without the dot) on each plank.  It is on both sides at each end.  I use chalk.  I have white and color chalk. White does not
show very well on Maple.  It rubs off easily later.
I try not to use AC, although this year the mid July to early August heat wave was too much for my condo's version of 4/40 air.  It is two floors with a sliding glass door on each.
On the Bay, it is humid.  I use no humidifier in the Winter.  I do not measure it, but I suspect that compared to yours, my range in humidity must resemble a windshield wiper.  
Still, I do not worry about it as far as the condition of the stored wood.  The tight packing stops any cupping.  I work slowly enough that there is equilibrium. 
 
In your place, i would wonder if the Castelo  was still a bit wet when it was purchased. 

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

A dining room style backed chair with a cushioned seat is worth a thought- for where is done, the constantly in one place, watch repair type work.
A backless stool (or two)  with big and at least 5 rollers  and easy height adjust.  Even with 5 rollers,  take care where you place your butt.  
That is unless you wish to practice  for a role in a "Help!  I've fallen and can't get up." commercial.  Those suckers will flip you in an instant.  
This is not theory. 
 
Home Depot  sells craft size pieces of 1" Styrofoam ( starfone in KY ) insulation.   Cut two brick or a bit larger blocks - that are the same size.  PVA glue them together and to a piece of 1/2" ply that has an apron on the four sides.     Poke deep holes in the top to fit hand tools. 
Things like pin vise drills , Kelly clamps,  scissors,  Sharpies,  knives, pencils, small hammers,...   keeps them to hand, but off the bench top.
 
Hot melt works more quickly - is a knee jerk thought, when quick is the only consideration - you really do not want to use hot melt on Styrofoam.

Kris,
 
About your thickness adjuster -  The ideal situation is one degree of freedom.  You may be challenging precision too much with 4 degrees of freedom.  Theory, and shoulda,  and oughta are sometimes at loggerheads with how it really is.  Keeping the table the same distance from the roller along the entire width/length  can be a challenge with any design.  I advise verifying at the extremes and in the middle.  
 

Kris,
 
Long ago, there were plans for a DIY thickness sander sold by the guild.  I built a machine using the plans.
It had a Maple drum.  I paid a wood turner to make it.  The blocks of Maple were glued with a 1/2" steel rod in the center.
The final size was 11" long with a circumference just at 9".   The sanding media available then was 9x11"  paper sheets.
I never mastered a technique to have a mechanical paper attachment, so it was a chemical adhesive. 
 
Things about it that I would do differently -
 Drum = Make it 12" long -  there is cloth backed media here that is 4" wide. I could have 4" 80 grit, 4" 220 grit, 4" 120 grit.  With mine, I had to trim 1" off of the 120 grit.  I had trouble finding a practical adhesive.  Contact cement holds well, but is difficult to undo.  I think that using what I use for my 5" disc sander would do - rubber cement.
Motor =  use a 1/2 hp instead of 1/3 hp motor.  Still make it 1700 rpm for the drum.  Faster burns the wood.  I see no advantage in it being slower
House =  Never enclose the motor.  I did and having the motor in an oven is a poor design.  Have as much air circulation as possible.
The Table =  here I did OK -- 3/4"  AA hardwood plywood.  All 4 edges have Aluminum right angle attached with more than a few, longer length screws - recessed heads.  Longer on the front and on the back is a good thing.
 
Now, the most important component -  These machines can generate impressive amounts of wood flour.  The size is small enough to float in the air and is readily inhaled.
 
I made a five sided box  to sit over the drum.  It is made by glueing three layers of Amazon box cardboard together using libral amounts of yellow PVA for each side. The inside corners are strengthened with a 1/4"x1/4" Pine stick  - 8 sticks .  The top has an female attachment for a 2 1/2" shop vac hose.  The inside of the top has Pine stick glued to accept the screws holding on the vac attachment. 
The outside is covered with high quality duct tape.  The cheap stuff has poor adhesion.
If you think that you do not need a cyclone in line trap between your machines and the vac motor filter,  while that may fly for most machines, this one is in its own class.
The volume of saw dust is not to be believed.  Without the trap, much time will be spent clearing the vac filter.  The 5 gal cyclone catch chamber will need checking more often than is imagined.
 
Because of these machines, having a N-95 mask was no problem for me.  A cousin who is a house carpenter,  had to have surgery to remover a sawdust bezoar from his sinuses.  He avoided
using a mask because it fogged his glasses.  Real world saws have TPI  that produce comparatively large sized dust.   So even the relatively coarse sawdust that does not get to alveoli can cause a problem.  220 grit can get down deep.  ---finer than 220 grit is not a good idea anyway for stock wood surfacing.  Too fine a surface and PVA has no tooth to bond to.

Kris,
 
Long ago, there were plans for a DIY thickness sander sold by the guild.  I built a machine using the plans.
It had a Maple drum.  I paid a wood turner to make it.  The blocks of Maple were glued with a 1/2" steel rod in the center.
The final size was 11" long with a circumference just at 9".   The sanding media available then was 9x11"  paper sheets.
I never mastered a technique to have a mechanical paper attachment, so it was a chemical adhesive. 
 
Things about it that I would do differently -
 Drum = Make it 12" long -  there is cloth backed media here that is 4" wide. I could have 4" 80 grit, 4" 220 grit, 4" 120 grit.  With mine, I had to trim 1" off of the 120 grit.  I had trouble finding a practical adhesive.  Contact cement holds well, but is difficult to undo.  I think that using what I use for my 5" disc sander would do - rubber cement.
Motor =  use a 1/2 hp instead of 1/3 hp motor.  Still make it 1700 rpm for the drum.  Faster burns the wood.  I see no advantage in it being slower
House =  Never enclose the motor.  I did and having the motor in an oven is a poor design.  Have as much air circulation as possible.
The Table =  here I did OK -- 3/4"  AA hardwood plywood.  All 4 edges have Aluminum right angle attached with more than a few, longer length screws - recessed heads.  Longer on the front and on the back is a good thing.
 
Now, the most important component -  These machines can generate impressive amounts of wood flour.  The size is small enough to float in the air and is readily inhaled.
 
I made a five sided box  to sit over the drum.  It is made by glueing three layers of Amazon box cardboard together using libral amounts of yellow PVA for each side. The inside corners are strengthened with a 1/4"x1/4" Pine stick  - 8 sticks .  The top has an female attachment for a 2 1/2" shop vac hose.  The inside of the top has Pine stick glued to accept the screws holding on the vac attachment. 
The outside is covered with high quality duct tape.  The cheap stuff has poor adhesion.
If you think that you do not need a cyclone in line trap between your machines and the vac motor filter,  while that may fly for most machines, this one is in its own class.
The volume of saw dust is not to be believed.  Without the trap, much time will be spent clearing the vac filter.  The 5 gal cyclone catch chamber will need checking more often than is imagined.
 
Because of these machines, having a N-95 mask was no problem for me.  A cousin who is a house carpenter,  had to have surgery to remover a sawdust bezoar from his sinuses.  He avoided
using a mask because it fogged his glasses.  Real world saws have TPI  that produce comparatively large sized dust.   So even the relatively coarse sawdust that does not get to alveoli can cause a problem.  220 grit can get down deep.  ---finer than 220 grit is not a good idea anyway for stock wood surfacing.  Too fine a surface and PVA has no tooth to bond to.

Kris,
 
Long ago, there were plans for a DIY thickness sander sold by the guild.  I built a machine using the plans.
It had a Maple drum.  I paid a wood turner to make it.  The blocks of Maple were glued with a 1/2" steel rod in the center.
The final size was 11" long with a circumference just at 9".   The sanding media available then was 9x11"  paper sheets.
I never mastered a technique to have a mechanical paper attachment, so it was a chemical adhesive. 
 
Things about it that I would do differently -
 Drum = Make it 12" long -  there is cloth backed media here that is 4" wide. I could have 4" 80 grit, 4" 220 grit, 4" 120 grit.  With mine, I had to trim 1" off of the 120 grit.  I had trouble finding a practical adhesive.  Contact cement holds well, but is difficult to undo.  I think that using what I use for my 5" disc sander would do - rubber cement.
Motor =  use a 1/2 hp instead of 1/3 hp motor.  Still make it 1700 rpm for the drum.  Faster burns the wood.  I see no advantage in it being slower
House =  Never enclose the motor.  I did and having the motor in an oven is a poor design.  Have as much air circulation as possible.
The Table =  here I did OK -- 3/4"  AA hardwood plywood.  All 4 edges have Aluminum right angle attached with more than a few, longer length screws - recessed heads.  Longer on the front and on the back is a good thing.
 
Now, the most important component -  These machines can generate impressive amounts of wood flour.  The size is small enough to float in the air and is readily inhaled.
 
I made a five sided box  to sit over the drum.  It is made by glueing three layers of Amazon box cardboard together using libral amounts of yellow PVA for each side. The inside corners are strengthened with a 1/4"x1/4" Pine stick  - 8 sticks .  The top has an female attachment for a 2 1/2" shop vac hose.  The inside of the top has Pine stick glued to accept the screws holding on the vac attachment. 
The outside is covered with high quality duct tape.  The cheap stuff has poor adhesion.
If you think that you do not need a cyclone in line trap between your machines and the vac motor filter,  while that may fly for most machines, this one is in its own class.
The volume of saw dust is not to be believed.  Without the trap, much time will be spent clearing the vac filter.  The 5 gal cyclone catch chamber will need checking more often than is imagined.
 
Because of these machines, having a N-95 mask was no problem for me.  A cousin who is a house carpenter,  had to have surgery to remover a sawdust bezoar from his sinuses.  He avoided
using a mask because it fogged his glasses.  Real world saws have TPI  that produce comparatively large sized dust.   So even the relatively coarse sawdust that does not get to alveoli can cause a problem.  220 grit can get down deep.  ---finer than 220 grit is not a good idea anyway for stock wood surfacing.  Too fine a surface and PVA has no tooth to bond to.

Kris,
 
Long ago, there were plans for a DIY thickness sander sold by the guild.  I built a machine using the plans.
It had a Maple drum.  I paid a wood turner to make it.  The blocks of Maple were glued with a 1/2" steel rod in the center.
The final size was 11" long with a circumference just at 9".   The sanding media available then was 9x11"  paper sheets.
I never mastered a technique to have a mechanical paper attachment, so it was a chemical adhesive. 
 
Things about it that I would do differently -
 Drum = Make it 12" long -  there is cloth backed media here that is 4" wide. I could have 4" 80 grit, 4" 220 grit, 4" 120 grit.  With mine, I had to trim 1" off of the 120 grit.  I had trouble finding a practical adhesive.  Contact cement holds well, but is difficult to undo.  I think that using what I use for my 5" disc sander would do - rubber cement.
Motor =  use a 1/2 hp instead of 1/3 hp motor.  Still make it 1700 rpm for the drum.  Faster burns the wood.  I see no advantage in it being slower
House =  Never enclose the motor.  I did and having the motor in an oven is a poor design.  Have as much air circulation as possible.
The Table =  here I did OK -- 3/4"  AA hardwood plywood.  All 4 edges have Aluminum right angle attached with more than a few, longer length screws - recessed heads.  Longer on the front and on the back is a good thing.
 
Now, the most important component -  These machines can generate impressive amounts of wood flour.  The size is small enough to float in the air and is readily inhaled.
 
I made a five sided box  to sit over the drum.  It is made by glueing three layers of Amazon box cardboard together using libral amounts of yellow PVA for each side. The inside corners are strengthened with a 1/4"x1/4" Pine stick  - 8 sticks .  The top has an female attachment for a 2 1/2" shop vac hose.  The inside of the top has Pine stick glued to accept the screws holding on the vac attachment. 
The outside is covered with high quality duct tape.  The cheap stuff has poor adhesion.
If you think that you do not need a cyclone in line trap between your machines and the vac motor filter,  while that may fly for most machines, this one is in its own class.
The volume of saw dust is not to be believed.  Without the trap, much time will be spent clearing the vac filter.  The 5 gal cyclone catch chamber will need checking more often than is imagined.
 
Because of these machines, having a N-95 mask was no problem for me.  A cousin who is a house carpenter,  had to have surgery to remover a sawdust bezoar from his sinuses.  He avoided
using a mask because it fogged his glasses.  Real world saws have TPI  that produce comparatively large sized dust.   So even the relatively coarse sawdust that does not get to alveoli can cause a problem.  220 grit can get down deep.  ---finer than 220 grit is not a good idea anyway for stock wood surfacing.  Too fine a surface and PVA has no tooth to bond to.

Far be it from me to rain on anybody's parade, but...
 
There are a very few specialty suppliers that do sell finish-quality dimensioned scale lumber and they are becoming fewer every day. The economics of the business are such that the market really isn't sufficiently strong for anybody to be supplying dimensioned scale lumber in any species other than balsa or basswood and perhaps thin birch plywood, none of which are prime finish woods for modeling. Add to that problem the fact that there aren't a lot of straight lines on a ship and the reality becomes apparent: those who are working with fine woods aren't buying their wood pre-milled. If you're lucky, you may find some cherry stripwood, but that's about it. Everything you see used by the really good modelers on the forum is being milled from larger billets by the modelers themselves. The silver lining to this cloud is that there's a lot of very interesting and suitable wood out there that's going for amazingly inexpensive prices because nobody wants to mill it commercially. A modeler doesn't have to limit themselves to boxwood or pear, although it's very nice if one can afford caviar. The municipal dump piles are full of exotic species in sizes one can throw in the trunk of the car for free, if you mill it yourself.  That does require an investment in power tools. Sometimes a local cabinet shop will oblige on a custom order basis. Other times the local trade school wood shop ma be open for adult school projects and tools are available there. Bottom line, though, if you are looking for fine woodworking species suitable for modeling, you will have to mill it yourself these days and that will require more than a drill. 

Here are some fine tuning points, that I am being reminded of as I assemble the hull of Vincennes:
It was an early and transitional development stage.  I milled the stock, arranged the patterns, scroll cut the timbers, used a disc sander to set the butt joints,  assembled the timbers into frame pairs (bends) using pins - to check for butt joins that were too fat, and disassembled and stored each sandwich in a multi compartment storage box. 
Now it is over 5 years later. The Black Cherry has darkened nicely.  but it also reminds me of things that I now do a better way.
Four pin locations are better for each timber.  The points being two at each far end.  The points not being too close to the pattern line.
 
I was using a 4 point Ariel Black lower case letter "o".  It is round in the center. The area is close to a #70 drill bit hole.
The wall is thin and guessing where - how far out to place each one - is tedious - having to decide for each. 
My solution is to make a new letter.  It is a 7 point "o" merged over a 4 point "o".  I saved the layer and have lots of copies.  The hole is a precise size and the wall is thick enough that if I just kiss the pattern line, it is far enough out that the hole does not mar the face of the timber.  The wall is thick enough that by staying outside it when scroll cutting, The hole is not cut into and made useless. 
( I loft at 1:48 and reduce the patterns 80% to get 1:60,  I place the locator points on the 1:60 - the final size.)   Placing the points and then reducing is not a good idea.
With this idiot proof construct, now the main "be careful" is to make sure the locators are inside the butt lines at the end and are not sanded into when the butt lines are sanded.
A model where all of the locators are inside the timbers will avoid most of these problems.  
 
One suggestion.  more points than you need is better than not enough.  It just costs a few seconds when lofting to place a point, and if you do not need it just do not use it.  If you do not have enough, it is too late once the timber has been isolated. It is actually too late after the pattern has been printed out.
 
For the floors, a really wide line to sand to is a difficult task to do precisely.   The butt of the floor with futt 2 is better done if it is above the inside moulded line of the floor.  
It is also easier to disc sand if it is an angle . higher on the inside and sloping down to the outside line.
For POF,  I have gotten better at disc sanding exactly to the butt lines than I was 5 years ago.  Too fat and it is back to the sander, so that the assembly works.  Too much off, and there is an ugly gap.  This is not the best look for POF with visible frames.  Wood flour in PVA fixes small gaps, thin shims fix larger ones.  For a solid hull, that is sealed and painted,  precision at the butts is not so important. Wood flour in PVA will fill and paint will hide. 
 
For the lofting -  
When importing a scanned plan into the drawing program.
Adjust the change in scale that most every scanner will do.  It is different for each scanner, but is constant for each one.
After the scale is repaired, set a large, but not too large sensitivity range for the magic wand,  click on the background, CUT
The layer should now only have the desired lines and be otherwise transparent.
Now adjust the rotation to get vertical to a vertical and horizontal background.
Lock the layer, duplicate it.  Clean up the junk using CUT on the duplicate,  lock, and duplicate this clean one. Unless you like repeating work, only make changes to duplicates
When you add something new, do it on a new layer.
Layers are your friend.  The only limit on the number of layers is in how large the drawing program will let a file size become before it gets squirrely and or adds artifacts.
Backup often  -   
Large hulls may require more than one file.  At 1:48, a frigate requires two files.  A 74 requires even more.  I really fear what the Pennsylvania will require.

John,
 
I have zero experience acrylic paint, but I think there are two major classes of color coatings:  paint and washes.
A wash - pigment in a solvent.  The wash applied, the solvent evaporates, the pigment just sits on the surface.  A dried up can of wash just needs more solvent to reconstitute it.
An applied pigment has nothing to hold it on the surface if exposed to external forces - rain,  splash, abrassion,...
A paint is pigment, a binder, and a solvent.   Paint applied,  the solvent evaporates,  the binder undergoes a chemical reaction as exposure to Oxygen increases.  A larger, more complex polymer is formed.  It sticks to the surface and keeps the pigment in place.
 
 
I think that dried acrylic has a different chemistry.  You may be able to mechanically shatter the plastic of the polymerized binder, but it will not work as a binder when this new gemisch is applied as a paint, even if you can make the mess into small enough bits to suspend in the solvent.  It is now a wash.
 
Another factor,  pigments have interesting chemical names,  cadmium, titanium,  heavy metal type elements.  Not really healthy to breathe.  Thinking about it, it probably a good idea to wear a mask or work in a hood when sanding dried paint.
 
If you are paid a reasonable wage,  the time spent recovering the dried mess,  even if it were not a fruitless exercise, is likely more costly than new paint.

That’s a Contarini galley (the blue and yellow is indeed their arms) - Contarini was based in Venice and ran charter tours to Jerusalem for pilgrims. I believe he had a more or less a monopoly when Konrad went, so I guess Konrad travelled with him. 
 
The town on the last image is Ragusa (Dubrovnik) by the way.

I do not know if I addressed this before,  but one factor to defend against with a multilayer build technique is  error creep. 
When each pair of overlapping frames is glued up,  it will be strong and stand up to sanding.   I remove the pattern and rub it on a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper on a 12" x 18" piece of tempered plate glass.  There should be no difference in thickness at each butt.  The thickness at the rail should be the same as that at the keel.  The pattern on the two end frames of a sandwich should not be removed now,  Once the station sandwich is a single unit and it has been shaped, then the pattern is removed and those two face sanded on the glass surface.  Measure the thickness at the rail and keel for the sandwich.   
When the build gets beyond this, it is difficult to get accurate thickness measurements.  As the sandwiches are joined together, the key  control is to make sure the keel is dead flat. 
If the top is off, it can be shimmed or sanded to get  things right.  I was remiss in measuring with Marseilles.  It is a first rate and has a lot of upper works.  I built the fore half as a single unit and the aft half as a single unit and joined them at the middle.  With a flat keel, there is a 1/4" gap at the rail - right in the middle.  I can shim it and it will be planked over anyway,  but that taught me to start the joining in the middle and work to each end,  Any error creep is much easier to fix.

Mike,
 
If your question is about my presentation,  yes, ~ 1/8" +/-   would work just as well.   I kinda jumped the description to a thickness that - to me - is about the max as far as stock thickness for reasonable ease of cutting ( ~1/4").   I do not know the dimensions that you will be working with,  but if 1/8" x 8-10 layers or less does the job, you are where I am with the hulls that I build.   If it required 20 or so layers, I would go thicker.  If you go with Pine, the cutting and shaping will be fast work.   
Right now,  I am fighting with the different bonding required for the spaces next to the room for USS Vincennes (1825).  La Renommee was a bit of a flyer in that I built it with all room.  All room, which is what I suggested for you, is much easier and faster.  And even less work on pesky details, your ship has no gun ports to worry about. 

I do not know if I addressed this before,  but one factor to defend against with a multilayer build technique is  error creep. 
When each pair of overlapping frames is glued up,  it will be strong and stand up to sanding.   I remove the pattern and rub it on a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper on a 12" x 18" piece of tempered plate glass.  There should be no difference in thickness at each butt.  The thickness at the rail should be the same as that at the keel.  The pattern on the two end frames of a sandwich should not be removed now,  Once the station sandwich is a single unit and it has been shaped, then the pattern is removed and those two face sanded on the glass surface.  Measure the thickness at the rail and keel for the sandwich.   
When the build gets beyond this, it is difficult to get accurate thickness measurements.  As the sandwiches are joined together, the key  control is to make sure the keel is dead flat. 
If the top is off, it can be shimmed or sanded to get  things right.  I was remiss in measuring with Marseilles.  It is a first rate and has a lot of upper works.  I built the fore half as a single unit and the aft half as a single unit and joined them at the middle.  With a flat keel, there is a 1/4" gap at the rail - right in the middle.  I can shim it and it will be planked over anyway,  but that taught me to start the joining in the middle and work to each end,  Any error creep is much easier to fix.

Mike,
 
If your question is about my presentation,  yes, ~ 1/8" +/-   would work just as well.   I kinda jumped the description to a thickness that - to me - is about the max as far as stock thickness for reasonable ease of cutting ( ~1/4").   I do not know the dimensions that you will be working with,  but if 1/8" x 8-10 layers or less does the job, you are where I am with the hulls that I build.   If it required 20 or so layers, I would go thicker.  If you go with Pine, the cutting and shaping will be fast work.   
Right now,  I am fighting with the different bonding required for the spaces next to the room for USS Vincennes (1825).  La Renommee was a bit of a flyer in that I built it with all room.  All room, which is what I suggested for you, is much easier and faster.  And even less work on pesky details, your ship has no gun ports to worry about.