Jaager

A progression from here is to forego all of the pre-made parts and scratch build.  Your possibilities increase by a couple or three magnitudes.  The limits here are the available plans.  And if your devotion to historical accuracy has flexible limits, it will be limited by your skill either at a drawing board or a CAD program.  And with a lot of the legacy plans for notorious vessels, the origins and specifics only wink the reality of what they purport to represent.  But, to be fair,  at the time most were produced,  there was not much else available.  Of course,  more than a few kits share this same tenuous attachment to reality.

A progression from here is to forego all of the pre-made parts and scratch build.  Your possibilities increase by a couple or three magnitudes.  The limits here are the available plans.  And if your devotion to historical accuracy has flexible limits, it will be limited by your skill either at a drawing board or a CAD program.  And with a lot of the legacy plans for notorious vessels, the origins and specifics only wink the reality of what they purport to represent.  But, to be fair,  at the time most were produced,  there was not much else available.  Of course,  more than a few kits share this same tenuous attachment to reality.

I trust that you mean this is jest.  Being 3 litres negative water balance in Piedmont Carolina in Summer-like temp sort of makes it difficult to maintain the necessary internal balance and not start to denature some temperature sensitive enzymes and receptors.  I think beyond a certain age, our internal thirst safety drive can get to be below the strength of signal necessary to gain our attention.

As an indicator of the characteristics the term Cedar is all but useless.   It includes several genus groups and may be more than one family.  Being an aromatic conifer may be all it takes.

It would be difficult to over praise the improvement an in-line cyclone type trap makes in dealing with collected saw dust,  A cloth bag or straight to a vac chamber/filter just ain't in it once you see the difference. 
My old Sears 16gal shop vac was like being near a jet engine - had to use ear muff sound protection.  I bought a Festool Midi because it was supposed to be quiet.  It is, but it is expensive as 'ell and turns itself off after 15 min.   I bought a 16 gal Rigid from Home Depot that is about as quiet, pulls a hurricane, stays on, and costs less than 20% what the Festool did.  I do not need hearing protection, but I still can't listen to Beethoven when its on.
Now on to your question.
This is what I have now:
https://www.rockler.com/dust-collector-remote-switch
The remote uses a common low cost battery.   I unplug it when I am done - because I live in a condo and it may use the same frequency as some garage door remotes.  You can guess how I discovered that.   I ain't low cost, but a low cost model that clued me in on this tech, burned out.
 
 

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

Bob,
No disagreement from me about any sort of Al oxide - open coat.  For the longest time,  I wondered what the difference was between open coat and closed coat.  I was addressing the closed coat Al oxide and Si carbide and Zirconia as being the stuff that could clog.  I think that the longer lasting open coat is about having a cloth or heavier paper backing and a bonding agent that is stronger and more heat from friction resistant.  The teeth part should be about the same.
 
Dave,
Not having a ton of fine saw dust would be a plus,  but at least needing protection from it,  in addition to a shop vac meant that I had some N-95 masks on hand.

With blades, I think thickness planner is a better description.
Aspects that I would wonder about:
How much fine control over thickness?
How often must the blades be sharpened?
How difficult is it to get at them?
What is the square surface area processed before the blades need to be replaced?
How expensive are the blades?
Is tear out a significant occurrence?
What is the difference in loss to waste compared to a sander?
 
Compared to a thickness sander, 
I imagine it would go faster. 
Require fewer passes if the layer to be removed is relatively thick. 
The waste product would generally be less micro and airborne.  Something that requires abatement with a sander. 
If you are careless and get fingers in harms way, I would think that the amount of you lost would be more than closely trimmed nails or temporarily more sensitive finger tips.

Two comments:
I buy direct from Klingspor on line.  From my reading, I use open coat Al oxide as the cutting medium.  It seems that the long life materials are for metals and such, wood clogs, fills the spaces.
I wish Jim had used a much stronger spring to restrain the depth wheel.   But it only wants to go one way and it is wide enough that a 2" C clamp on the rim stops it by it hitting the housing.

Would shellac not also do the job? Not about resisting scratches, but an easy sealing layer.
Or conservators wax?

Perhaps exploring these will give you some idea of the tools available for this range of work.
 I bought this under a Swedish company's brand name:
King Arthur's© Guinevere© Flexible Shaft
Heavy duty and definitely not cordless
Although the 1/3 HP motor that I use to drive it is CW/CCW  - this tool is not engineered for reverse rotation.
There are a variety of disks  1"  2"  3"
It also works with my preferred drums
Peachtree Woodworking Supply Inc
Sleeveless Sanding Drums
This sanding drum design eliminates the need to buy replacement sanding sleeves for your drum sander. Cut and fold any type of sheet sandpaper to size for the particular drum size you're using. A single sheet of sandpaper and instructions are included with each individual drum.
3/4" - 1" - 2" - 3"    2.5" @ Woodcraft    
if the rubber pad is removed the 3/4" becomes 1/2"  
there is a  3" that is 6" high  (the 4.5" high one is a waste)
I made a sanding table to mount these drums  ( no oscillating,  but everything I use it on has a continuously changing bevel, so I move the work. )
I dislike using sleeves.
Micro-Mark  has a line of a German company's DC - corded small hand tools
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Heavy-Duty Right Angle Disk Sander / Drill
Works well inside a larger scale hull.  pretty powerful,  has a chuck that can replace the disk for more tool options.
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Palm-Size Belt Sander
It did a job for me very quickly that would have otherwise been slow and difficult.  I had to hold it with a piece of wood to stop it throwing the belt.
It is a very aggressive tool.
 
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Orbital Sander Now with Hook and Loop System Sandpaper!
I have it, but have not used it yet.  I think I prefer hand sanding for the jobs it would do.
Micro-Make™ 3D Contour Sander
The sander version of a Norelco Triple Header shaver - I did not buy this,   I think my uses are too delicate to risk using it.
   

I found the MDS 
 
the solvent seems to be:
Section 3 - Composition /
Information On IngredientsChemical NameCASRN  
                                                                          Wt%
Toluene   108-88- 3                                         15-40
Acetone   67-64-1                                            15-40
Light aliphatic solvent naphtha   64742-89-8   7-13
n-Heptane   142-82- 5                                      5-10
Methylcyclohexane   108-87- 2                       0.5-1.5
 
They do not even have a fixed ratio,  just a range
It is a proprietary mixture (?) so no off the shelf solvent.  Reads like some nasty stuff to breathe.
 
The adhesive is a rubber derivative
I have a home made thickness sander from very old NRJ plans - 11" Maple  drum and used this stuff to fix the 11x9 sheet of abrasive medium.  It is a job the remove and clean.  Naphtha will cause it to unstick and roll into balls but still a lot of work to remove.   Mineral spirits will loosen it -- eventually.  No solvent have I found. 
My Byrnes replacement, although 6" instead of 11",  is magnitudes faster and easier to replace the media on.
 
If you must use it,  it looks to me as though you are limited to buying the smallest size container and pitching it when it evaporates too much carrier solvent.
 
With straight up Best Test or Elmer's rubber cement, you can buy Bestine - n-Heptane - in pints or quarts -  but this stuff looks no go.
 
 

There seems to be a problem with the definition of a few key words.
Admiralty "style"  -  I used to think this referred to the framing used for late 17 c. RN warship models,  here it seems to mean hull only, no or stub masts.
Navy Board  -  is the 17 c.  contemporary or older somewhat stylized framing - with the frames showing.
POF - plank on frame - is the hull fabrication method that mimics the way ships were built.  It can be stylized  (e.g. Hahn) thru a wide range to an obsessively exact replica of the original.  Some degree of stylization  helps in making this method approachable.
 
POB - plank on bulkhead is a popular hull fabrication method for both scratch and kits.  The "bulkheads" are actually moulds.  They are often spaced far apart and require two layers of planking.  They are in no way "frames",  although some unscrupulous kit companies will use that term in misleading advertising.
The looks of the underlaying structure requires that it be totally hidden by planking.
 
I have little expectation that there will be any kits of the quality and nature that you seek.  The species and quantity of the wood necessary for the frames and the very high degree of waste and the labor are such that the cost will probably always be impossibly high.
Tom at Cafmodel  is working up a first attempt at a POF kit.   The framing style seems to be uniquely French for cutter sized vessels. 
 
Your goal is ambitious.   POF will probably be strictly a scratch build method for any foreseeable future.  There are plans and monographs with lofted frame patterns.  These will save considerable time as there can be more than 100 frames to plot.  
At 1:48 a liner's hull can easily be 4-5 feet long.

Sloop is an ambiguous type designation.   The vessel in Antscherl's book is the 18th century version. 
There is a merchant /civilian vessel type.
In the 19th century -  for the USN : Sloop-of-War  -  the class and distinctions within it 1st class, 2nd class, 3rd class based on size and number of guns. 
They were also termed corvettes - there may have been a size distinction to which were called corvette.  Corvettes were also a creature of the 18th century.
The defining characteristic was that they carried their guns on one deck.  In general, the number of guns was 16-20.  As the 19th century progressed, some or most had a spar deck.  A sort of roof over the gun deck that made it easier to manage the rigging.  No guns and not much of a bulwark.
 
A frigate carries guns on two levels (decks).   There may only be 2-4 guns on the quarterdeck, but that makes it a frigate. 
As the 19th century progressed, some frigates had their 2nd level guns removed,  the upper bulwarks cut down, and perhaps the beams replaced using less substantial ones - to become razee corvette.
 
The RN changed the sparring on some of their brigs - Cruzier's were a subject for this.  The main and fore masts were made less lofty and a full mizzen mast was added.  For some reason they were called brig sloops.  Though born brigs, they were now ship rigged and the same size as Sloop-of-War. 

If you haven't already, try 3M disk adhesive, sold in auto body and fender supply houses. (If they still make it. Every time I try to buy something useful her in CA, it seems they've outlawed it!) It comes in applicator bottles, "toothpaste" tubes, and aerosol cans. It's made to easily clean off sanding pads with acetone. It does get a bit tenacious when it's been sitting for a long time, though. It may be hard to come by these days, though. Everybody seems to have gone to adhesive-backed pre-cut disks and hook and loop. Cutting your own out of sandpaper bought by the 100 sheet sleeve is way cheaper than hoop and loop!

I found the MDS 
 
the solvent seems to be:
Section 3 - Composition /
Information On IngredientsChemical NameCASRN  
                                                                          Wt%
Toluene   108-88- 3                                         15-40
Acetone   67-64-1                                            15-40
Light aliphatic solvent naphtha   64742-89-8   7-13
n-Heptane   142-82- 5                                      5-10
Methylcyclohexane   108-87- 2                       0.5-1.5
 
They do not even have a fixed ratio,  just a range
It is a proprietary mixture (?) so no off the shelf solvent.  Reads like some nasty stuff to breathe.
 
The adhesive is a rubber derivative
I have a home made thickness sander from very old NRJ plans - 11" Maple  drum and used this stuff to fix the 11x9 sheet of abrasive medium.  It is a job the remove and clean.  Naphtha will cause it to unstick and roll into balls but still a lot of work to remove.   Mineral spirits will loosen it -- eventually.  No solvent have I found. 
My Byrnes replacement, although 6" instead of 11",  is magnitudes faster and easier to replace the media on.
 
If you must use it,  it looks to me as though you are limited to buying the smallest size container and pitching it when it evaporates too much carrier solvent.
 
With straight up Best Test or Elmer's rubber cement, you can buy Bestine - n-Heptane - in pints or quarts -  but this stuff looks no go.
 
 

There are reducers for the hoses.
I saved a lot of time and bother dealing with clogged shopvac filters by using an in-line cyclone trap.  The thickness sander generates impressive volumes of dust.  I use it and the tablesaw in the garage.
The work done on the disk sander is more finesse than volume so I use small portable hand vac  (stairs, corners, furniture, type) - a visible chamber for collection rather than a bag.

Do yourself a favor and do a site search for: "topics"   and "content titles only"  using the single word:  Constellation
Read a bit about what this singularly unique kit involves.

I do not do POB hull assembly,  but  if the gaps are between the planks of the first layer, why fill them at all?  The hull is not meant to float.
If there are flats and hollows, PVA bond thin pieces of wood or veneer to build it out and abrade that down to a fair run.
PVA bonds by assembling chains and tendrils that invade the pores and rough surfaces of wood - as well as twisting around each other. 
A surface finished to 100-120 grit seems to be optimal for a good bond.  I break my own suggestion because I came to favor 220 grit before I knew better.

Perhaps exploring these will give you some idea of the tools available for this range of work.
 I bought this under a Swedish company's brand name:
King Arthur's© Guinevere© Flexible Shaft
Heavy duty and definitely not cordless
Although the 1/3 HP motor that I use to drive it is CW/CCW  - this tool is not engineered for reverse rotation.
There are a variety of disks  1"  2"  3"
It also works with my preferred drums
Peachtree Woodworking Supply Inc
Sleeveless Sanding Drums
This sanding drum design eliminates the need to buy replacement sanding sleeves for your drum sander. Cut and fold any type of sheet sandpaper to size for the particular drum size you're using. A single sheet of sandpaper and instructions are included with each individual drum.
3/4" - 1" - 2" - 3"    2.5" @ Woodcraft    
if the rubber pad is removed the 3/4" becomes 1/2"  
there is a  3" that is 6" high  (the 4.5" high one is a waste)
I made a sanding table to mount these drums  ( no oscillating,  but everything I use it on has a continuously changing bevel, so I move the work. )
I dislike using sleeves.
Micro-Mark  has a line of a German company's DC - corded small hand tools
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Heavy-Duty Right Angle Disk Sander / Drill
Works well inside a larger scale hull.  pretty powerful,  has a chuck that can replace the disk for more tool options.
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Palm-Size Belt Sander
It did a job for me very quickly that would have otherwise been slow and difficult.  I had to hold it with a piece of wood to stop it throwing the belt.
It is a very aggressive tool.
 
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Orbital Sander Now with Hook and Loop System Sandpaper!
I have it, but have not used it yet.  I think I prefer hand sanding for the jobs it would do.
Micro-Make™ 3D Contour Sander
The sander version of a Norelco Triple Header shaver - I did not buy this,   I think my uses are too delicate to risk using it.
   

I do not do POB hull assembly,  but  if the gaps are between the planks of the first layer, why fill them at all?  The hull is not meant to float.
If there are flats and hollows, PVA bond thin pieces of wood or veneer to build it out and abrade that down to a fair run.
PVA bonds by assembling chains and tendrils that invade the pores and rough surfaces of wood - as well as twisting around each other. 
A surface finished to 100-120 grit seems to be optimal for a good bond.  I break my own suggestion because I came to favor 220 grit before I knew better.

There are reducers for the hoses.
I saved a lot of time and bother dealing with clogged shopvac filters by using an in-line cyclone trap.  The thickness sander generates impressive volumes of dust.  I use it and the tablesaw in the garage.
The work done on the disk sander is more finesse than volume so I use small portable hand vac  (stairs, corners, furniture, type) - a visible chamber for collection rather than a bag.

From Meade  1869      "compiled from various standard authorities"
 

Beam                                                                                        15'                        20'                            25'
 Floor timbers sided, at least                                                4.75"                    6"                            7.25"   
Top timbers sided                                                                 4"                         4.75"                       6"  
Moulded at cutting down (outer edge of keel/keelson)      6 - 6.25"             7.75-8"                    9.25-9.75"
"    at middle between keel and waterline                            4.5 - 5"                5.5-6"                      6.25-7.5"   
"   at LWL                                                                             3.25 - 3.75"        4.25-4.75"               5.5-6"
"   at main deck                                                                     3 - 3.25"              4-4.25"                   5-5.5"
 
This gives you an idea of what proper scantlings should be.
 
Looking for room and space  -  the ASA 1885     rules are 2/3 rds room  1/3 rd  space    They allow that  the final 1/5 of frames at either end can increase the space by 10%.
I would na do this.  It will not save you any money and it just confuses things, to no good purpose.

From Meade  1869      "compiled from various standard authorities"
 

Beam                                                                                        15'                        20'                            25'
 Floor timbers sided, at least                                                4.75"                    6"                            7.25"   
Top timbers sided                                                                 4"                         4.75"                       6"  
Moulded at cutting down (outer edge of keel/keelson)      6 - 6.25"             7.75-8"                    9.25-9.75"
"    at middle between keel and waterline                            4.5 - 5"                5.5-6"                      6.25-7.5"   
"   at LWL                                                                             3.25 - 3.75"        4.25-4.75"               5.5-6"
"   at main deck                                                                     3 - 3.25"              4-4.25"                   5-5.5"
 
This gives you an idea of what proper scantlings should be.
 
Looking for room and space  -  the ASA 1885     rules are 2/3 rds room  1/3 rd  space    They allow that  the final 1/5 of frames at either end can increase the space by 10%.
I would na do this.  It will not save you any money and it just confuses things, to no good purpose.

The government shipyards would have been their own world, but with a contract I was thinking private yard.   In this situation, I considered that perhaps every component may not have been covered.  As time progressed, I suspect that the list grew longer as some less than ethical private builders worked to contract instead of using artful assembly.  If I were of a mind to replicate the internal components that are hidden by decking, gratings, and planking,  going that far in role playing,  I would try to follow artful practice in my shipyard.  
 
..... Expletive!!  I guess this means I talked myself into using the elaborate joinery for the main wale used in later era RN ships.  Another reason to stay with countries with better timber supplies.