Jaager

Hank,
I forgot that you inland Tarheels have it a bit warmer and do not have a giant moving heat sink to soak up some of the heat.  At least those not on the Outer Banks do not.  But they will need webbed feet soon, what with sea level rise.
OK, lets do an unrealistic blue sky mitigation. 
Quick and dirty,  a window unit A/C,  Duke Power will love your additional contribution.  Especially if that box is not insulated.
Thick batts of fiberglass insulation between the roof beams, with paper but but not vapor barrier facing.  Trapping the humidity would rot the roof, but the paper would stop a constant rain of itching and pulmonary silicosis producing particles.
A gabble peak exhaust fan.  Looking at your last photo, the loft is almost belly crawl high.  An intake vent at that peak  - some rain exclusion flaps outside and a way to fit a 2-4" thick Styrofoam  air tight cover over the hole in the Winter.  The other peak has your porch outside it.  Good and bad.  Good in that the fan can be at the peak face of the porch and the fan noise will be less.   Bad in that the peak of the porch will have to be a tunnel.  - a ceiling there.  Greenhouse fans come with louver flaps.   A simple screen covered opening for the main front peak.  A Winter cover there too.  I would hate the winterizing and summerizing maintenance.  
The whole roof can be covered with 4'x8' sheets of 1" foil faced insulation sheets. Just tied down.  Foil face out, so that you can blind aviation with the reflection.
Or  build a "U" shaped structure over the whole building and cover it with a flexible PE reflecting tarp.  This could be large enough to exclude direct morning and especially evening solar gain.
 
Back when Carter was pres,  I built (had built) a house with a two story solar room in central KY.  Summers are just as hot and humid as piedmont Tarheelia  with more tornadoes. Great for tomatoes though.  Being a second generation tech pioneer - lots and lots of things I would have done differently, if...  One of gotcha for that region,  it does not sun all that much in the Winter.  What was great for New Mexico and Arizona, was not exactly the same.
 

Scratch / scrape grooves for the bars on top of the frames and PVA glue a thin veneer layer over them?  A mechanical hold should be enough, but I know that PVA will grip stainless steel pins in a drilled hole with enough of a bond that your bars would not survive the force required to break it.

Kirby,
From 1:96 to 1:192 is reduction to one half in three dimensions.  The volume difference is that  your model will be 1/8 that of one built to the plans.
!:96 is already partially miniature and 1:192 is decidedly a miniature scale.  This will require as much art as it does technical skill, if not more.  You will need to be creative in your choice of materials.
I see this as work on a different plane from most of us.  The production of gems.  I find the prospect daunting.
 
Some resources that you may find offer help or inspiration are:

Building a Miniature Navy Board Model
by Philip Reed
Shipbuilding in Miniature
by Donald McNarry | Apr 1, 1983
SHIPS IN MINIATURE: The Classic Manual for Modelmakers
by Lloyd McCaffery | Mar 1, 2003
 

Scratch / scrape grooves for the bars on top of the frames and PVA glue a thin veneer layer over them?  A mechanical hold should be enough, but I know that PVA will grip stainless steel pins in a drilled hole with enough of a bond that your bars would not survive the force required to break it.

Kirby,
From 1:96 to 1:192 is reduction to one half in three dimensions.  The volume difference is that  your model will be 1/8 that of one built to the plans.
!:96 is already partially miniature and 1:192 is decidedly a miniature scale.  This will require as much art as it does technical skill, if not more.  You will need to be creative in your choice of materials.
I see this as work on a different plane from most of us.  The production of gems.  I find the prospect daunting.
 
Some resources that you may find offer help or inspiration are:

Building a Miniature Navy Board Model
by Philip Reed
Shipbuilding in Miniature
by Donald McNarry | Apr 1, 1983
SHIPS IN MINIATURE: The Classic Manual for Modelmakers
by Lloyd McCaffery | Mar 1, 2003
 

You could go old school and use half concentration shellac, followed by full strength.  For anything wood that is already bonded, shellac would be good for them too.  You can mask with Frog tape ( is it really made in France?) if it worries you.  Application - small brush, a small block cut from a low cost sponge paint brush -- Duco a couple of round tooth picks, or a piece of a bamboo skewer for a handle -  a square of cotton rag held in a curved Kelly clamp  -  for fine attention - a Q-tip? 
 
Since they are removed, you might consider a blackening Tx for the brass.  Search the forums for the topic,  The key to success with this seems to be fresh blackening agent and making sure that the whole surface of the brass is absolutely nothing but brass,  no skin oils or anything else.

Bob,
No disagreement from me about any sort of Al oxide - open coat.  For the longest time,  I wondered what the difference was between open coat and closed coat.  I was addressing the closed coat Al oxide and Si carbide and Zirconia as being the stuff that could clog.  I think that the longer lasting open coat is about having a cloth or heavier paper backing and a bonding agent that is stronger and more heat from friction resistant.  The teeth part should be about the same.
 
Dave,
Not having a ton of fine saw dust would be a plus,  but at least needing protection from it,  in addition to a shop vac meant that I had some N-95 masks on hand.

With blades, I think thickness planner is a better description.
Aspects that I would wonder about:
How much fine control over thickness?
How often must the blades be sharpened?
How difficult is it to get at them?
What is the square surface area processed before the blades need to be replaced?
How expensive are the blades?
Is tear out a significant occurrence?
What is the difference in loss to waste compared to a sander?
 
Compared to a thickness sander, 
I imagine it would go faster. 
Require fewer passes if the layer to be removed is relatively thick. 
The waste product would generally be less micro and airborne.  Something that requires abatement with a sander. 
If you are careless and get fingers in harms way, I would think that the amount of you lost would be more than closely trimmed nails or temporarily more sensitive finger tips.

Two comments:
I buy direct from Klingspor on line.  From my reading, I use open coat Al oxide as the cutting medium.  It seems that the long life materials are for metals and such, wood clogs, fills the spaces.
I wish Jim had used a much stronger spring to restrain the depth wheel.   But it only wants to go one way and it is wide enough that a 2" C clamp on the rim stops it by it hitting the housing.

Paul,
First, if you have not already, check out Hank's thread in this forum  /22426-converting-a-backyard-shed-into-a-model-workshop/.
 
I would use Liquid Nails and fit as much pink or blue Star Phone (E. Ky pronunciation) exterior insulation sheeting as will fit between the 2x4's. 
If you then cover the inside with 4x8 sheets on the 1" white/ foil pressed beads version, it will insulate and brighten the place.  Oh, oh,  mark the centers for every 2x4 on the outside surface as you cover them over.  Stud finders are a royal pain to have to use.
 
A low cost bench =  a long, wide Lauian-type flush face hollow core door, fix a furring strip at the back as a splash guard,  cover the top with a sheet of Formica-type material (this is what contact cement is for. Do not get too much because it is worthless as an adhesive for ship models).  Buy a pair of two drawer economy grade filing cabinets to hold it up.  PVA glue 4 pieces of scrap wood on the underside of door to make a socket for the top of each filing cabinet - keeps everything in place, but can easily be taken apart.   Toss the 4 filing cabinet drawers and fix a shelf where the bottom of each would have been.
Your existing bench is also a candidate for a Formica top.
 
For a dead flat work surface, two pieces of thick safety (museum) glass  12x18 inches - have the glass shop bevel all the edges.
 
For tools,  the economical course is like using a bayonet in a mine field.  Open the kit,  decide what your first step will be,  decide which tools will do the job and only buy those.  Do this for each subsequent step.  This should keep you from sinking a lot of money in buying tools that you will not use - at least until you inevitably contract the tool acquisition virus.
 
 

On masts with fore and aft sails with booms,  The aftermost shrouds?

Until somebody cites a contrary authority, I'd say any shroud which might potentially be subject to chafe by a yard can be expected to be wormed, parceled, and served. These are generally the forward shrouds on each mast, at least as high as the highest yard.

This is a personal thing but I avoid CA.  I would add epoxy for metal to wood gluing if it comes into play on your model.
Allan

I checked my library.
I lost what little Deutsch I had,  but none of the illustrations in Hendrik Busmann appear to address the stern at the water line.  Tafel II is a 27"x8" color foldout Peter Pett print.
 
There is something in James Sephton.  It is in an authoritative voice,  but he does not footnote that I can see, so I do not know his source.

I see this as a minor controversy that seems to have lasted about 250 years.  Unless some misplaced plans from 1637 finally show up, there is no definitive resolution.  It is all a best guess.  It is unfortunate that it has taken on more significance than it deserves.  It serves to divide into two camps,  whose further differences are not evident.   This is a large ship.  There is much about it to cover in a book.  For Frank Fox to disavow McKay's entire book over a couple of choices that are open to interpretation, seems excessive.  Better to praise what works and footnote the disagreement.  Then publish the alternative in NRJ with the alternate version of the plans.
I do not see this as being subject to vote,  unless the voter is actually building a model of the ship.  And, then, which ever choice is made should have no affect on how that model is judged, if it is an entry in a contest.  A museum suit is entitled to use this as a decision point for an acquisition.  Given the current fashion / fad exercised by museums, who knows how long it will be before even the possibility is a factor?   
 
Now, valid vote or not,  I see round.  The continuation of the caulking seams in the whole white area, is my key.  A flat tuck would have different planking.  That said, them's some pretty wide boards between those seams.  Did the painter actually see the ship?  Did he use a poorly planked model of it as his source?

I checked my library.
I lost what little Deutsch I had,  but none of the illustrations in Hendrik Busmann appear to address the stern at the water line.  Tafel II is a 27"x8" color foldout Peter Pett print.
 
There is something in James Sephton.  It is in an authoritative voice,  but he does not footnote that I can see, so I do not know his source.

I checked my library.
I lost what little Deutsch I had,  but none of the illustrations in Hendrik Busmann appear to address the stern at the water line.  Tafel II is a 27"x8" color foldout Peter Pett print.
 
There is something in James Sephton.  It is in an authoritative voice,  but he does not footnote that I can see, so I do not know his source.

I see this as a minor controversy that seems to have lasted about 250 years.  Unless some misplaced plans from 1637 finally show up, there is no definitive resolution.  It is all a best guess.  It is unfortunate that it has taken on more significance than it deserves.  It serves to divide into two camps,  whose further differences are not evident.   This is a large ship.  There is much about it to cover in a book.  For Frank Fox to disavow McKay's entire book over a couple of choices that are open to interpretation, seems excessive.  Better to praise what works and footnote the disagreement.  Then publish the alternative in NRJ with the alternate version of the plans.
I do not see this as being subject to vote,  unless the voter is actually building a model of the ship.  And, then, which ever choice is made should have no affect on how that model is judged, if it is an entry in a contest.  A museum suit is entitled to use this as a decision point for an acquisition.  Given the current fashion / fad exercised by museums, who knows how long it will be before even the possibility is a factor?   
 
Now, valid vote or not,  I see round.  The continuation of the caulking seams in the whole white area, is my key.  A flat tuck would have different planking.  That said, them's some pretty wide boards between those seams.  Did the painter actually see the ship?  Did he use a poorly planked model of it as his source?

The Chinese are quite capable of manufacturing high-quality products - but, as always, quality has its price. Countries seem to go through a certain cycle, when they enter a market. Way back in the later 19th century German manufacturer tried to compete through the price with British products, which resulted in poor quality (plus the technological catch-up as well) and poor reputation; later quality and, hence, price had to be ramped up to stay competitive; the 'Made in Germany' originally meant to be a warning imposed by British importers, became a sign of quality. Post WWII the Japanese went through a similar cycle; they first targeted the low-quality mass-market - I still remember that in the 1960s we frownd upon cheapo plasticy toys and other goods with the 'Made in Japan' cast into them; now they are among the leading manufacturers in the World. There are signs that the Chinese will go the same way.

I see this as a minor controversy that seems to have lasted about 250 years.  Unless some misplaced plans from 1637 finally show up, there is no definitive resolution.  It is all a best guess.  It is unfortunate that it has taken on more significance than it deserves.  It serves to divide into two camps,  whose further differences are not evident.   This is a large ship.  There is much about it to cover in a book.  For Frank Fox to disavow McKay's entire book over a couple of choices that are open to interpretation, seems excessive.  Better to praise what works and footnote the disagreement.  Then publish the alternative in NRJ with the alternate version of the plans.
I do not see this as being subject to vote,  unless the voter is actually building a model of the ship.  And, then, which ever choice is made should have no affect on how that model is judged, if it is an entry in a contest.  A museum suit is entitled to use this as a decision point for an acquisition.  Given the current fashion / fad exercised by museums, who knows how long it will be before even the possibility is a factor?   
 
Now, valid vote or not,  I see round.  The continuation of the caulking seams in the whole white area, is my key.  A flat tuck would have different planking.  That said, them's some pretty wide boards between those seams.  Did the painter actually see the ship?  Did he use a poorly planked model of it as his source?

In thinking about the theory of the thing, it could have a real resistance to solar gain if there was a double roof.  Leave the old trusses and plywood (or MDF) sheathing.  Remove the old shingles - because of their weight.  Add riser blocks to determine the gap and add a new roof with new rafters, sheathing and shingles over it.  Active exhaust of the air in the gap would divert the heat.  Of course the additional weight may crush the walls and the whole thing be a quantum singularity for your budget. 
 
If there was sufficient insulation, a free standing ceramic space heater may be enough for most Winter conditions.  Not shirt sleeve, but not ice sickle.  I was going to try one in my garage, but I finished what I needed to do down there on La Renommee before it got cold.  Then my Black Dog got aholdt of my initiative, so I did not need to buy one. 

Provided there is no vapor lock situation with the joist and subfloor plywood,  in the spirit of over engineering everything, a layer of Wonderboard could be laid over the plywood and a finish layer over that.  Of course you will not be taking a shower out there or worrying about ceiling noise for your down stairs neighbors,  but it should stiffen up the walking and stool rolling around on surface.
 
I think my eyes would get really tired of a high contrast - visually busy flooring.
 
If your poly on the bench tops does not hold up, there is always a Formica type surface that can be added - that IS one use for the otherwise dread Dap contact cement.

Dave,
I think the major alternatives are quarter sawn and plane sawn, yes?
The way I read the Gilmer quote:  their stock is quarter sawn, and the wide face is inside a growth ring.  The theoretical and perfect effect would be no grain showing and all one color.  More or less perfect for scale effect.  The narrow face would be busy with grain and it would be parallel lines. 
 
My stock (primarily Hard Maple and Black Cherry) from Yukon Lumber (they are not familiar with Castello) is plane sawn.  The wide face is along the growth rings. With that face on the saw table, what the sawn slices show is across the growth rings.  The stock for frame timbers has grain effect on the surface that is between each frame.  The edge that shows could, in theory, show no grain,  if the frame was a box and not curved.  It is actually catch as catch can,  because the lumber stock is a slice along the length of a cylinder with concentric rings.  With Hard Maple,  what shows on a cut across the  rings face can be plain, flame, tiger, fleck, depending on ring angle and all from the same board. The edge on a single timber can look as though it was two mildly different colored pieces with a curved diagonal scarph.   Were I to choose to be OCD about this part, I figure it would throw me into a fugue state.  I just live with it.
 
With flatsawn,  the face that you choose to lay on the saw table will have a significant and possibly more predictable and uniform effect on what your ultimate display face will look like. 
 
 
 

Hank,
I forgot that you inland Tarheels have it a bit warmer and do not have a giant moving heat sink to soak up some of the heat.  At least those not on the Outer Banks do not.  But they will need webbed feet soon, what with sea level rise.
OK, lets do an unrealistic blue sky mitigation. 
Quick and dirty,  a window unit A/C,  Duke Power will love your additional contribution.  Especially if that box is not insulated.
Thick batts of fiberglass insulation between the roof beams, with paper but but not vapor barrier facing.  Trapping the humidity would rot the roof, but the paper would stop a constant rain of itching and pulmonary silicosis producing particles.
A gabble peak exhaust fan.  Looking at your last photo, the loft is almost belly crawl high.  An intake vent at that peak  - some rain exclusion flaps outside and a way to fit a 2-4" thick Styrofoam  air tight cover over the hole in the Winter.  The other peak has your porch outside it.  Good and bad.  Good in that the fan can be at the peak face of the porch and the fan noise will be less.   Bad in that the peak of the porch will have to be a tunnel.  - a ceiling there.  Greenhouse fans come with louver flaps.   A simple screen covered opening for the main front peak.  A Winter cover there too.  I would hate the winterizing and summerizing maintenance.  
The whole roof can be covered with 4'x8' sheets of 1" foil faced insulation sheets. Just tied down.  Foil face out, so that you can blind aviation with the reflection.
Or  build a "U" shaped structure over the whole building and cover it with a flexible PE reflecting tarp.  This could be large enough to exclude direct morning and especially evening solar gain.
 
Back when Carter was pres,  I built (had built) a house with a two story solar room in central KY.  Summers are just as hot and humid as piedmont Tarheelia  with more tornadoes. Great for tomatoes though.  Being a second generation tech pioneer - lots and lots of things I would have done differently, if...  One of gotcha for that region,  it does not sun all that much in the Winter.  What was great for New Mexico and Arizona, was not exactly the same.
 

Do you mean the Washington cutter brig, 1837, 6 gun?   The one with lines on page 379 HASN, deck details on page 380, and sail plan with deck details on page 381?
These 3 sheets of plans are available from SI -- $10 / page plus $5 mailing  @ 1/4":1' scale.  I have no idea if Covid 19 has affected the activities of the SI plans department.