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I am sure there are many ways, but for me  for frames or bulkheads I have found that rotary wheels do a lot of work quickly, but gentle and slow works best so as to not go too far.  Light touches to get the bevel, continually checking the fairing with a flexible strip.  Once close to where I  want to be,  I have used a sanding mouse that reaches across a number of frames, (or a couple bulkheads for OB) to be sure the bevels are fair across them.  Some final  hand filing or sanding is best to avoid going too far.   As with most things in our hobby, especially around power equipment,  WEAR EYE PROTECTION as the disks do throw off grit and saw dust.                                          Allan





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Ummm.  You might consider altering the title to: Bulkhead fairing techniques. 

Your present title is bait for POF scratch builders.

Frames are a whole nuther thing.  While they are just assembled frames, they are beveled as an isolate unit.  A sanding drum with 60 grit or 80 grit does an efficient job for me,  Fine tune with 220 grit.  Once they are placed on the keel, the final fairing can get tricky - if the spaces between the frames are not filled with bracing.  Moving the frames because of too much force being applied is not good.  I have the spaces with temporary filler wood, so I can be vigorous about it.


The same problem can occur with POB -it seems to me - in theory.  The molds ( bulkheads ) are just hanging out there, if there is not bracing between them.  Then there is the whole alternative of filling between the molds and thereby provide an adequate base for the planking.

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