Jaager

Cape Holly is listed in the Wood Database.  If it is similar to ilex except for the color not being white, it will work for most anything and everything. The sample looks like the color varies, so if clear finished wood is the goal, I would use an aniline dye to get a uniform display.  You would have to look long and hard to find a wood that works better for planking.
White Pear - what I find is Pyrus calleryana in answer to the search.  The white refers to the color of the blooms.  The cultivar that I am familiar with is Bradford.  The wood is hard, tight grain, closed pore. 
It grows fast, Spring wood and Summer wood are fairly wide and are slightly different in color.  But only slightly. It is more brown than pink/red.  It has a mildly waxy feel, but glues well.  The uses and working characteristics make it a joy to use.  I think it is a bit harder than Holly,  but should be just as useful - for any part.
If what you can get is close to the above and the price is as low as I read it to be,  rent a storage locker if you need to, and buy as much as they will sell you. The same with the Boxwood and Pau Marfim.
The basic assumption behind this is that your objective is scratch building using POF.

Cape Holly is listed in the Wood Database.  If it is similar to ilex except for the color not being white, it will work for most anything and everything. The sample looks like the color varies, so if clear finished wood is the goal, I would use an aniline dye to get a uniform display.  You would have to look long and hard to find a wood that works better for planking.
White Pear - what I find is Pyrus calleryana in answer to the search.  The white refers to the color of the blooms.  The cultivar that I am familiar with is Bradford.  The wood is hard, tight grain, closed pore. 
It grows fast, Spring wood and Summer wood are fairly wide and are slightly different in color.  But only slightly. It is more brown than pink/red.  It has a mildly waxy feel, but glues well.  The uses and working characteristics make it a joy to use.  I think it is a bit harder than Holly,  but should be just as useful - for any part.
If what you can get is close to the above and the price is as low as I read it to be,  rent a storage locker if you need to, and buy as much as they will sell you. The same with the Boxwood and Pau Marfim.
The basic assumption behind this is that your objective is scratch building using POF.

My math on this is kind of shaky,  I you can get this for ~$28/bf  and Gilmer is selling it for $44/bf now.
What you are describing is lumber - a board.   6 inches wide by 2 inches thick by 4 feet long.  Now, that is a unicorn.
 
My math:  51 lb/ cubic ft.  (Wood Database)   A bf (board foot) is 144 cubic inches   (12" x 12" x 1")  51 / 12 = 4.25 lb/ bf
a cubic foot = 12" x 12" x12"
$13/2 lb = $6.50/lb    $6.50 x 4.25 = $28/bf  I am thinking that this is what Chuck was paying back when he could afford to supply it.
 
If my math is correct,  Take out a loan and buy as much as you can. 
Unless this crash produces a World wide deflation, this is a deal.
My Hard Maple is ~ $8/bf  and Black Cherry is ~ $6/bf  - both grow in my region, it is bulk shipping by lumber truck/
You can probably get Acer pseudoplatanus  (Sycamore Maple) and Pear for a price in the same ball park,  so Castello does not have a monopoly over your choice of scratch build lumber.  If you have your heart set on using it, this may be a once in a lifetime deal.

Jolley,
You have the advantage of it being domestic for you.
Given similar history elsewhere, what seems to be a constant and never ending supply,  could just as easily evaporate in the future.
It looks as though you can also get Pau Marfim - which is listed as being excellent for masts and yards.
What sort of wood do you get with Mixed Indigenous?  The price looks good,  maybe scrap for jigs, if there are no gems in there?

Mark,   yes, probably even if green.  It is probably just me, but I think it would be seriously meshugga to pay the extra cost of shipping green wood from Brazil to Europe, as well as having to deal with the agricultural customs regulations for wood that could harbor pests.  Just speculation, but I assumed that it would be kiln dried before it was loaded into a container.  But you would be paying a lot for water were it indeed green wood.
 
 
 
I come at this from a very specific aspect of all this. 
This is strictly based on my philosophy and experience, an opinion piece only:
 
I favor POF at a higher end scale, but not a heroic one.   A scale of 1:48 would be ideal, detail can be had without too much faking.  Not wishing to sacrifice too much detail, but needing to be practical about display size, I opted for 1:60.  I wish my imaginary fleet to all be the same scale.  Even at 1:60 a first rate man of war is an imposing presence. 
Using Castello for framing at the larger range of scale,  My guess is that a single frigate size vessel may use about 2"x6"x48" or more of your lumber stock.  What with the curving timbers, there is a high proportion of waste.  Castello is so expensive that it would only make sense to have open framing below the wale, on both sides. 
With wood this expensive and it becoming difficult to restock,  serious tools are needed to process it.  This means that a free standing bandsaw with a blade that is stronger than mere steel is needed.  The waste from a tablesaw - multiple passes, flipping the stock is too expensive in wood lost to kerf.  The one advantage that a tablesaw has over a bandsaw (other than initial cost) is that you do not need to worship at the alter of blade replacement.
 
If you intend to use this just for planking, deck furniture, and masting,  your cost in lumber per vessel will be significantly less.  However, with boards this large, hard  and heavy,  it will still require serious shop machinery to work them.
 
Now,  if you have the proper tools, skills and time  and you load up a large supply,  you may be able to sell milled Castello to the community.  With it being a sellers market, you would stand a chance of recovering what you spend on tools, blades, and lumber in a reasonable time, and supply a sought after product.  HOWEVER, given that this would be skilled labor on your part, I doubt that you would be able to sell this at a price that sufficiently rewards your labor.

Provided there is no vapor lock situation with the joist and subfloor plywood,  in the spirit of over engineering everything, a layer of Wonderboard could be laid over the plywood and a finish layer over that.  Of course you will not be taking a shower out there or worrying about ceiling noise for your down stairs neighbors,  but it should stiffen up the walking and stool rolling around on surface.
 
I think my eyes would get really tired of a high contrast - visually busy flooring.
 
If your poly on the bench tops does not hold up, there is always a Formica type surface that can be added - that IS one use for the otherwise dread Dap contact cement.

Linen yarn comes in a wide range of diameters.  Search the site for posts listing sources.  Yours is the continent where it is produced.

Provided there is no vapor lock situation with the joist and subfloor plywood,  in the spirit of over engineering everything, a layer of Wonderboard could be laid over the plywood and a finish layer over that.  Of course you will not be taking a shower out there or worrying about ceiling noise for your down stairs neighbors,  but it should stiffen up the walking and stool rolling around on surface.
 
I think my eyes would get really tired of a high contrast - visually busy flooring.
 
If your poly on the bench tops does not hold up, there is always a Formica type surface that can be added - that IS one use for the otherwise dread Dap contact cement.

To pile on even more:  Yellow PVA - woodworkers glue - wood to wood - fiber to wood.  It is in water and as it reacts, it releases acetic acid - vinegar - not much, just enough to smell sometimes.  Metal to wood glue = epoxy.  two part mix - lots of choices -messy to use, wants to go where you don't want it.  When set it has a strong bond.
About your Xacto blades ( knife blades)-  they work best if really sharp.   Knee jerk reaction is to use a sharpening stone, but unless you have nicked the edge,  most of the time, this is overkill.  Stropping will keep a sharp cutting edge.  A flat piece of leather, rubbed with polishing compd,  is what is used.   It comes as a green, or gold, or rouge stick,  your choice.  Use it like a crayon on the leather. Unlike grinding, or whetting, stropping is done away from the edge.  On a knife or chisel, make a few cuts, then a few stropping strokes ( the verb for this is?) and the blade should last and last.

To pile on even more:  Yellow PVA - woodworkers glue - wood to wood - fiber to wood.  It is in water and as it reacts, it releases acetic acid - vinegar - not much, just enough to smell sometimes.  Metal to wood glue = epoxy.  two part mix - lots of choices -messy to use, wants to go where you don't want it.  When set it has a strong bond.
About your Xacto blades ( knife blades)-  they work best if really sharp.   Knee jerk reaction is to use a sharpening stone, but unless you have nicked the edge,  most of the time, this is overkill.  Stropping will keep a sharp cutting edge.  A flat piece of leather, rubbed with polishing compd,  is what is used.   It comes as a green, or gold, or rouge stick,  your choice.  Use it like a crayon on the leather. Unlike grinding, or whetting, stropping is done away from the edge.  On a knife or chisel, make a few cuts, then a few stropping strokes ( the verb for this is?) and the blade should last and last.

Mark,   yes, probably even if green.  It is probably just me, but I think it would be seriously meshugga to pay the extra cost of shipping green wood from Brazil to Europe, as well as having to deal with the agricultural customs regulations for wood that could harbor pests.  Just speculation, but I assumed that it would be kiln dried before it was loaded into a container.  But you would be paying a lot for water were it indeed green wood.
 
 
 
I come at this from a very specific aspect of all this. 
This is strictly based on my philosophy and experience, an opinion piece only:
 
I favor POF at a higher end scale, but not a heroic one.   A scale of 1:48 would be ideal, detail can be had without too much faking.  Not wishing to sacrifice too much detail, but needing to be practical about display size, I opted for 1:60.  I wish my imaginary fleet to all be the same scale.  Even at 1:60 a first rate man of war is an imposing presence. 
Using Castello for framing at the larger range of scale,  My guess is that a single frigate size vessel may use about 2"x6"x48" or more of your lumber stock.  What with the curving timbers, there is a high proportion of waste.  Castello is so expensive that it would only make sense to have open framing below the wale, on both sides. 
With wood this expensive and it becoming difficult to restock,  serious tools are needed to process it.  This means that a free standing bandsaw with a blade that is stronger than mere steel is needed.  The waste from a tablesaw - multiple passes, flipping the stock is too expensive in wood lost to kerf.  The one advantage that a tablesaw has over a bandsaw (other than initial cost) is that you do not need to worship at the alter of blade replacement.
 
If you intend to use this just for planking, deck furniture, and masting,  your cost in lumber per vessel will be significantly less.  However, with boards this large, hard  and heavy,  it will still require serious shop machinery to work them.
 
Now,  if you have the proper tools, skills and time  and you load up a large supply,  you may be able to sell milled Castello to the community.  With it being a sellers market, you would stand a chance of recovering what you spend on tools, blades, and lumber in a reasonable time, and supply a sought after product.  HOWEVER, given that this would be skilled labor on your part, I doubt that you would be able to sell this at a price that sufficiently rewards your labor.

Mark,   yes, probably even if green.  It is probably just me, but I think it would be seriously meshugga to pay the extra cost of shipping green wood from Brazil to Europe, as well as having to deal with the agricultural customs regulations for wood that could harbor pests.  Just speculation, but I assumed that it would be kiln dried before it was loaded into a container.  But you would be paying a lot for water were it indeed green wood.
 
 
 
I come at this from a very specific aspect of all this. 
This is strictly based on my philosophy and experience, an opinion piece only:
 
I favor POF at a higher end scale, but not a heroic one.   A scale of 1:48 would be ideal, detail can be had without too much faking.  Not wishing to sacrifice too much detail, but needing to be practical about display size, I opted for 1:60.  I wish my imaginary fleet to all be the same scale.  Even at 1:60 a first rate man of war is an imposing presence. 
Using Castello for framing at the larger range of scale,  My guess is that a single frigate size vessel may use about 2"x6"x48" or more of your lumber stock.  What with the curving timbers, there is a high proportion of waste.  Castello is so expensive that it would only make sense to have open framing below the wale, on both sides. 
With wood this expensive and it becoming difficult to restock,  serious tools are needed to process it.  This means that a free standing bandsaw with a blade that is stronger than mere steel is needed.  The waste from a tablesaw - multiple passes, flipping the stock is too expensive in wood lost to kerf.  The one advantage that a tablesaw has over a bandsaw (other than initial cost) is that you do not need to worship at the alter of blade replacement.
 
If you intend to use this just for planking, deck furniture, and masting,  your cost in lumber per vessel will be significantly less.  However, with boards this large, hard  and heavy,  it will still require serious shop machinery to work them.
 
Now,  if you have the proper tools, skills and time  and you load up a large supply,  you may be able to sell milled Castello to the community.  With it being a sellers market, you would stand a chance of recovering what you spend on tools, blades, and lumber in a reasonable time, and supply a sought after product.  HOWEVER, given that this would be skilled labor on your part, I doubt that you would be able to sell this at a price that sufficiently rewards your labor.

Mark,   yes, probably even if green.  It is probably just me, but I think it would be seriously meshugga to pay the extra cost of shipping green wood from Brazil to Europe, as well as having to deal with the agricultural customs regulations for wood that could harbor pests.  Just speculation, but I assumed that it would be kiln dried before it was loaded into a container.  But you would be paying a lot for water were it indeed green wood.
 
 
 
I come at this from a very specific aspect of all this. 
This is strictly based on my philosophy and experience, an opinion piece only:
 
I favor POF at a higher end scale, but not a heroic one.   A scale of 1:48 would be ideal, detail can be had without too much faking.  Not wishing to sacrifice too much detail, but needing to be practical about display size, I opted for 1:60.  I wish my imaginary fleet to all be the same scale.  Even at 1:60 a first rate man of war is an imposing presence. 
Using Castello for framing at the larger range of scale,  My guess is that a single frigate size vessel may use about 2"x6"x48" or more of your lumber stock.  What with the curving timbers, there is a high proportion of waste.  Castello is so expensive that it would only make sense to have open framing below the wale, on both sides. 
With wood this expensive and it becoming difficult to restock,  serious tools are needed to process it.  This means that a free standing bandsaw with a blade that is stronger than mere steel is needed.  The waste from a tablesaw - multiple passes, flipping the stock is too expensive in wood lost to kerf.  The one advantage that a tablesaw has over a bandsaw (other than initial cost) is that you do not need to worship at the alter of blade replacement.
 
If you intend to use this just for planking, deck furniture, and masting,  your cost in lumber per vessel will be significantly less.  However, with boards this large, hard  and heavy,  it will still require serious shop machinery to work them.
 
Now,  if you have the proper tools, skills and time  and you load up a large supply,  you may be able to sell milled Castello to the community.  With it being a sellers market, you would stand a chance of recovering what you spend on tools, blades, and lumber in a reasonable time, and supply a sought after product.  HOWEVER, given that this would be skilled labor on your part, I doubt that you would be able to sell this at a price that sufficiently rewards your labor.

Mark,   yes, probably even if green.  It is probably just me, but I think it would be seriously meshugga to pay the extra cost of shipping green wood from Brazil to Europe, as well as having to deal with the agricultural customs regulations for wood that could harbor pests.  Just speculation, but I assumed that it would be kiln dried before it was loaded into a container.  But you would be paying a lot for water were it indeed green wood.
 
 
 
I come at this from a very specific aspect of all this. 
This is strictly based on my philosophy and experience, an opinion piece only:
 
I favor POF at a higher end scale, but not a heroic one.   A scale of 1:48 would be ideal, detail can be had without too much faking.  Not wishing to sacrifice too much detail, but needing to be practical about display size, I opted for 1:60.  I wish my imaginary fleet to all be the same scale.  Even at 1:60 a first rate man of war is an imposing presence. 
Using Castello for framing at the larger range of scale,  My guess is that a single frigate size vessel may use about 2"x6"x48" or more of your lumber stock.  What with the curving timbers, there is a high proportion of waste.  Castello is so expensive that it would only make sense to have open framing below the wale, on both sides. 
With wood this expensive and it becoming difficult to restock,  serious tools are needed to process it.  This means that a free standing bandsaw with a blade that is stronger than mere steel is needed.  The waste from a tablesaw - multiple passes, flipping the stock is too expensive in wood lost to kerf.  The one advantage that a tablesaw has over a bandsaw (other than initial cost) is that you do not need to worship at the alter of blade replacement.
 
If you intend to use this just for planking, deck furniture, and masting,  your cost in lumber per vessel will be significantly less.  However, with boards this large, hard  and heavy,  it will still require serious shop machinery to work them.
 
Now,  if you have the proper tools, skills and time  and you load up a large supply,  you may be able to sell milled Castello to the community.  With it being a sellers market, you would stand a chance of recovering what you spend on tools, blades, and lumber in a reasonable time, and supply a sought after product.  HOWEVER, given that this would be skilled labor on your part, I doubt that you would be able to sell this at a price that sufficiently rewards your labor.

My math on this is kind of shaky,  I you can get this for ~$28/bf  and Gilmer is selling it for $44/bf now.
What you are describing is lumber - a board.   6 inches wide by 2 inches thick by 4 feet long.  Now, that is a unicorn.
 
My math:  51 lb/ cubic ft.  (Wood Database)   A bf (board foot) is 144 cubic inches   (12" x 12" x 1")  51 / 12 = 4.25 lb/ bf
a cubic foot = 12" x 12" x12"
$13/2 lb = $6.50/lb    $6.50 x 4.25 = $28/bf  I am thinking that this is what Chuck was paying back when he could afford to supply it.
 
If my math is correct,  Take out a loan and buy as much as you can. 
Unless this crash produces a World wide deflation, this is a deal.
My Hard Maple is ~ $8/bf  and Black Cherry is ~ $6/bf  - both grow in my region, it is bulk shipping by lumber truck/
You can probably get Acer pseudoplatanus  (Sycamore Maple) and Pear for a price in the same ball park,  so Castello does not have a monopoly over your choice of scratch build lumber.  If you have your heart set on using it, this may be a once in a lifetime deal.

Simple lighting idea:
 
To supplement my overhead fluorescent lighting, I like an inexpensive architect? Light, except that I removed the clamp on part.  The fixture now sits in a 1/2in drilled hole on my workbench.  Actually I have two holes to allow it to be moved depending upon where I am working.  You could drill any number to allow it to be moved about.
 
 

It looks to me as though  #27 is a post that is forward of the two #15 sites.   It is probably there to secure the anchor cables, when the anchors are in use.  #15 are hatches to store anchor cables below.  The wing (#26) must allow for easier use of two anchors without the lines becoming fouled at the securing point on deck?
 
With no hole in the stem post at deck level,  A bowsprit with its heel against post #27 would steep at too much of an angle to be practical, unless it was a just a stub for a forestay.   A stay may secure directly to #27.

My math on this is kind of shaky,  I you can get this for ~$28/bf  and Gilmer is selling it for $44/bf now.
What you are describing is lumber - a board.   6 inches wide by 2 inches thick by 4 feet long.  Now, that is a unicorn.
 
My math:  51 lb/ cubic ft.  (Wood Database)   A bf (board foot) is 144 cubic inches   (12" x 12" x 1")  51 / 12 = 4.25 lb/ bf
a cubic foot = 12" x 12" x12"
$13/2 lb = $6.50/lb    $6.50 x 4.25 = $28/bf  I am thinking that this is what Chuck was paying back when he could afford to supply it.
 
If my math is correct,  Take out a loan and buy as much as you can. 
Unless this crash produces a World wide deflation, this is a deal.
My Hard Maple is ~ $8/bf  and Black Cherry is ~ $6/bf  - both grow in my region, it is bulk shipping by lumber truck/
You can probably get Acer pseudoplatanus  (Sycamore Maple) and Pear for a price in the same ball park,  so Castello does not have a monopoly over your choice of scratch build lumber.  If you have your heart set on using it, this may be a once in a lifetime deal.

Does anyone make a LED replacement lamp for the circular fluorecent bulbs in the lamps with the center magniifer lens? I live by my magnifier lamp, it is much needed now that I am older.

My math on this is kind of shaky,  I you can get this for ~$28/bf  and Gilmer is selling it for $44/bf now.
What you are describing is lumber - a board.   6 inches wide by 2 inches thick by 4 feet long.  Now, that is a unicorn.
 
My math:  51 lb/ cubic ft.  (Wood Database)   A bf (board foot) is 144 cubic inches   (12" x 12" x 1")  51 / 12 = 4.25 lb/ bf
a cubic foot = 12" x 12" x12"
$13/2 lb = $6.50/lb    $6.50 x 4.25 = $28/bf  I am thinking that this is what Chuck was paying back when he could afford to supply it.
 
If my math is correct,  Take out a loan and buy as much as you can. 
Unless this crash produces a World wide deflation, this is a deal.
My Hard Maple is ~ $8/bf  and Black Cherry is ~ $6/bf  - both grow in my region, it is bulk shipping by lumber truck/
You can probably get Acer pseudoplatanus  (Sycamore Maple) and Pear for a price in the same ball park,  so Castello does not have a monopoly over your choice of scratch build lumber.  If you have your heart set on using it, this may be a once in a lifetime deal.

My math on this is kind of shaky,  I you can get this for ~$28/bf  and Gilmer is selling it for $44/bf now.
What you are describing is lumber - a board.   6 inches wide by 2 inches thick by 4 feet long.  Now, that is a unicorn.
 
My math:  51 lb/ cubic ft.  (Wood Database)   A bf (board foot) is 144 cubic inches   (12" x 12" x 1")  51 / 12 = 4.25 lb/ bf
a cubic foot = 12" x 12" x12"
$13/2 lb = $6.50/lb    $6.50 x 4.25 = $28/bf  I am thinking that this is what Chuck was paying back when he could afford to supply it.
 
If my math is correct,  Take out a loan and buy as much as you can. 
Unless this crash produces a World wide deflation, this is a deal.
My Hard Maple is ~ $8/bf  and Black Cherry is ~ $6/bf  - both grow in my region, it is bulk shipping by lumber truck/
You can probably get Acer pseudoplatanus  (Sycamore Maple) and Pear for a price in the same ball park,  so Castello does not have a monopoly over your choice of scratch build lumber.  If you have your heart set on using it, this may be a once in a lifetime deal.

Ready made framing stock for  a 1st rate @ 1:60  ( 15" in scale ).  Depending on the piece, it may want planking over.  It is better Basswood than Basswood, except for the color ...  often good to ugly on the same piece.   A shame about it as display wood, because the bf price for even 10x4 and 12x4 is a lot less than the other domestic species that suitable.  I wonder what a cherry or walnut dye in it would look like?   
 
Hank,
Worse comes to worst, you could always fix your leak using the liquid rubber stuff that the goof on cable keeps hawking.  He seems to think  that you could coat your shed with it,  turn it upside down and paddle it down the PeeDee.

This sort of lamp allows for light to be adjusted.that clamp along my work bench.
LED bulbs reduce the weight and heat.  I found a deal somewhere for a pack on edge clamps that are more substantial and allow me to pull up and move the actual lamp PRN.
I have one that I removed the final lamp bonnet and use cable ties to hold a crevice tool and flex hose attached to a portable vacuum to suck up saw dust with small machines with no vac attachment.  it gets the inlet close to the action and keeps it there.
 
I have one - not this brand - but a back wall clamp.   It can seem like a scene from a wildlife documentary showing a pack of hyenas at a fresh kill to get my head into the action, if they are positioned too close.

This sort of lamp allows for light to be adjusted.that clamp along my work bench.
LED bulbs reduce the weight and heat.  I found a deal somewhere for a pack on edge clamps that are more substantial and allow me to pull up and move the actual lamp PRN.
I have one that I removed the final lamp bonnet and use cable ties to hold a crevice tool and flex hose attached to a portable vacuum to suck up saw dust with small machines with no vac attachment.  it gets the inlet close to the action and keeps it there.
 
I have one - not this brand - but a back wall clamp.   It can seem like a scene from a wildlife documentary showing a pack of hyenas at a fresh kill to get my head into the action, if they are positioned too close.

Yes, the curved deck planking seems to be a French thing.  As Bonhomme Richard, Boudriot made an educated guess as he had to reconstruct some from the plans of the original vessel.
 
There's many differences between French and English ships.  Part is wood supply and part was philosophy.  The French had a school set up for ship designers and were willing to try different things.  They hull planking differed from the English also as did their hull designs.  The American frigates hulls seem to inspired by both with the design favoring the French.  I might be wrong on this last point but it just seems that way to me.