Jaager

An efficient way would be to scab on pieces of wood veneer and sand it to shape.
A question that I have from time to time = If it is a first layer of planking on a POB built and the gaps being filled are between planks, Why even use a filler?  The real planking will cover the gaps.  If there is a significant hollow,  the molds being too widely spaced, scabbing wood there would provide a more secure surface for the real planks.

An efficient way would be to scab on pieces of wood veneer and sand it to shape.
A question that I have from time to time = If it is a first layer of planking on a POB built and the gaps being filled are between planks, Why even use a filler?  The real planking will cover the gaps.  If there is a significant hollow,  the molds being too widely spaced, scabbing wood there would provide a more secure surface for the real planks.

An efficient way would be to scab on pieces of wood veneer and sand it to shape.
A question that I have from time to time = If it is a first layer of planking on a POB built and the gaps being filled are between planks, Why even use a filler?  The real planking will cover the gaps.  If there is a significant hollow,  the molds being too widely spaced, scabbing wood there would provide a more secure surface for the real planks.

To confuse the situation,  digital calipers and electronic calculators allow the choice of scale that is not limited to integrals of the Imperial scale.
Facing your same dilemma,  I looked at the model as a 3D object.  I also like the level of detail possible with museum scale (1:48).  I also wish to have my "fleet" all at the same scale. Ships of the line tend to of an imposing size at 1:48.  I did some back of the envelope calculations, using 1:48 as the baseline.
1:60 = 50% of the volume
1:70 = 33%
1:76 = 25%
1:96 = 12.5%
I chose 1:60 in the hope that the level of detail would be close, with a less imposing size.
I framed the 118 gun Le Commerce de Marseille wishing to do both proof of concept for my method and see the size.  I admit, the size still has me a bit addlepated.

Bob,
The super peachy keen aspect of the video loop was the digital readout.  If only there was a way to get that for the Byrnes saw....  the physical scratches on the micrometer defeat my eyes.

I looked into Madrone as a framing wood.  I am on the wrong side of the continent for the cost to be reasonable - the shipping cost is absurd.
I found a source that has solved the drying problem and uses kiln settings that produces usable timber:  Sustainable Northwest Wood
If I lived near Portland OR  I would pay them a visit and pick over their stock for the color and grain.  They have 4x4 and 8x4 by 8' on hand. 
They sell it for flooring and furniture use. 
The Wood Database information for Madrone reads like it would be excellent for hull fabrication.

Bob,
The super peachy keen aspect of the video loop was the digital readout.  If only there was a way to get that for the Byrnes saw....  the physical scratches on the micrometer defeat my eyes.

Bob,
The super peachy keen aspect of the video loop was the digital readout.  If only there was a way to get that for the Byrnes saw....  the physical scratches on the micrometer defeat my eyes.

Hello, here's a link to an easy-to-set high precision fence that I made for my cabinet saw.  I think the concept may be adapted to smaller saws, and done with a less complicated locking scheme.
 
It employs parallel (identical) wedge with a 1:4 pitch.  Thus, a 1/32nd inch displacement fore/aft results in a port-starboard displacement of 1/128th of and inch.  The wedges were made from clear pine, with blue aluminum t-track screwed to the edges.   For ease of adjustment, It could be fitted with a linear scale graduated in inches, mm, or fractional inches, or a digital instrument could be used as well.
 
Note: the camera view is from the side of the saw, with the front of the table to the right in the view.
 
https://youtu.be/vXyb3p7TNcY

To stir this pot a bit more and endanger the tongues poking in cheeks a bit more:
Ductile (can be drawn into wires)  , one of the characteristics of a metal, = something I had to memorize for some early science class and got stuck in my head ever since.
A jewelers draw plate is a way to do it.  I am imagining that a commercial mill heats the metal a bit when doing this.  Doing it cold is a whole lot of work,  Theoretically, one could start with a thick wire and draw any gauge that is needed.  Cooper and brass kinda offer resistance to this, making it not so much fun.
Jim's plate is not designed to draw metal.   I have Jim's plate and a couple of jewelers plates.  The tools that I use most often are a couple of drill gauges:

I can sharpen the cutting edge by rubbing the side opposite the lettering on a whetstone.  
A significant factor is the species of bamboo that the skewer people use.  Some of it is really hard, some is soft, and some like to split under stress.

Worst comes to worst, Historic Ship Models,  Mondfeld  has a fine print page and a half of Italian to English (Spanish, French, German) at the back.  This should cover most all the parts and the book is nice to have.

To stir this pot a bit more and endanger the tongues poking in cheeks a bit more:
Ductile (can be drawn into wires)  , one of the characteristics of a metal, = something I had to memorize for some early science class and got stuck in my head ever since.
A jewelers draw plate is a way to do it.  I am imagining that a commercial mill heats the metal a bit when doing this.  Doing it cold is a whole lot of work,  Theoretically, one could start with a thick wire and draw any gauge that is needed.  Cooper and brass kinda offer resistance to this, making it not so much fun.
Jim's plate is not designed to draw metal.   I have Jim's plate and a couple of jewelers plates.  The tools that I use most often are a couple of drill gauges:

I can sharpen the cutting edge by rubbing the side opposite the lettering on a whetstone.  
A significant factor is the species of bamboo that the skewer people use.  Some of it is really hard, some is soft, and some like to split under stress.

Worst comes to worst, Historic Ship Models,  Mondfeld  has a fine print page and a half of Italian to English (Spanish, French, German) at the back.  This should cover most all the parts and the book is nice to have.

To stir this pot a bit more and endanger the tongues poking in cheeks a bit more:
Ductile (can be drawn into wires)  , one of the characteristics of a metal, = something I had to memorize for some early science class and got stuck in my head ever since.
A jewelers draw plate is a way to do it.  I am imagining that a commercial mill heats the metal a bit when doing this.  Doing it cold is a whole lot of work,  Theoretically, one could start with a thick wire and draw any gauge that is needed.  Cooper and brass kinda offer resistance to this, making it not so much fun.
Jim's plate is not designed to draw metal.   I have Jim's plate and a couple of jewelers plates.  The tools that I use most often are a couple of drill gauges:

I can sharpen the cutting edge by rubbing the side opposite the lettering on a whetstone.  
A significant factor is the species of bamboo that the skewer people use.  Some of it is really hard, some is soft, and some like to split under stress.

To stir this pot a bit more and endanger the tongues poking in cheeks a bit more:
Ductile (can be drawn into wires)  , one of the characteristics of a metal, = something I had to memorize for some early science class and got stuck in my head ever since.
A jewelers draw plate is a way to do it.  I am imagining that a commercial mill heats the metal a bit when doing this.  Doing it cold is a whole lot of work,  Theoretically, one could start with a thick wire and draw any gauge that is needed.  Cooper and brass kinda offer resistance to this, making it not so much fun.
Jim's plate is not designed to draw metal.   I have Jim's plate and a couple of jewelers plates.  The tools that I use most often are a couple of drill gauges:

I can sharpen the cutting edge by rubbing the side opposite the lettering on a whetstone.  
A significant factor is the species of bamboo that the skewer people use.  Some of it is really hard, some is soft, and some like to split under stress.

CAD  =  computer aided design  * (the verb may be a different one)
Assumptions:
You are starting with an existing plan and lofting hull components from it.
The actual design has been done.  You wish to replicate parts of that design at you target scale.
 
Lofting In Painter
I having been doing a lot of this (frame patterns for over 70 hulls).  I use a raster based program.  It does not do smooth curves as such. It does line segments.  The more segments, the smoother the curve.
Theoretically, what I get is a series of facets.  I patterns that I print out look smooth enough to begin with and even if it were facets, I can not get anything but a smooth curve on the wood from my sanders.
I use Painter 19 -  I already had an earlier edition from my time with 3D CG.  I could not justify the expense of Painter for just this part of its functions, were I just starting out.
GIMP is free, but it is a Photo Shop clone and brings a heavy load of functions with it.  Photo Shop will do it, but is not cost effective as a stand alone and a money sink on the Cloud if this is to be a continuing enterprise on your part.   Paint Shop Pro is about $50 +/-  and provided it can handle the potentially huge number of layers and large file sizes should be enough.
Painter 12 could not handle my file size in a single file - it added random green blocks when some threshold was exceeded.  Several smaller files solved that = Fore alone - one series, Aft alone  another series- lofting at 1:48= one file ,  reduction to 1:60 in another,  cutting the 1:60 frames into timber patterns a separate one or two files.
It makes a big difference depending the size of the ship.  A 118 gun liner stresses everything - all the way.  A pilot schooner is a snack.
Irrespective of your choice of raster program,  you will only be needing a relatively few functions.
SAVE - a function you will wish that you use more often than you do - unless you enjoy plowing the same furrow over and over.
COPY, PASTE,  CUT, SAVE   - big help is having a gaming mouse with programmable buttons for these.  I burned out the left click on several expensive brands.  I am getting excellent use out of a Redragon M711 Cobra Gaming Mouse  @ $20  I can burn thru a lot before I equal what a Logitech cost me and it is lasting longer to begin with.
For a brush - a thin line - (Painter buries finding a useful brush within an incredible number of options.)
Paint bucket fill tool - having frame lines as different colors helps in seeing what to cut -
With two timber faces on a pattern I cycle just 3 colors  R G B - in that order.  I know if it is R G,  red is always the midship face,  if it is G B , green is midship,  if it is B R , blue is midship. 
The placement  of the floor timber matters.  It is easy to get confused at the sander,  A system helps idiot proof things.
Rectangular Selection tool and Polygon Selection tool  cover this function for me - plus any erase needed
Magic Wand -  good for removing the background from a scan and making a layer transparent except for the lines of interest.
SCALE is vital  so is Rotate selection
I do not use many more functions than these.  Not much of a learning curve.
 
To begin, to save what I aim to print, I had select a canvas size that Windows Photo Viewer all not "adjust" for my printer.  I use pixels as the dimension units.
Home scanners to do not provide a 1:1 copy.  I had to determine an adjustment factor for every scan.  For MY Brother machine it is 102.5%.  The first thing I do to any scan when I import into Painter is to SCALE 102.5%. Before I do anything else - bad results if I miss doing this. 
Once I found a page size that Windows will leave alone, I scanned a transparent metric ruler and printed copies at ever more precise scale adjustments until I got an exact match.  This is tedious but necessary.
After importing a scan, adjusting the scale, removing the background,  the next fun ting to do is to rotate the scan back to vertical with your base  vertical Y line and X  baseline. 
The only concession I have made to CAD  is that I saved a long thin vertical  line using TurboCAD that I bought from an end cap display.   The finest line that Painter will do is 1 pixel wide.  I wanted thinner for within the program and a PNG import from TurboCAD provided that.  The patterns that I work with can't be any finer than what a point is from my ink jet printer so the precision is limited to Painter.
 

Newman Tools Inc has an office in Ottawa.  They used to be an interface for Thurston.   Thurston is no more.  Madco is an alternative.  Perhaps, THE alternative in this hemisphere.
Perhaps communicating with Newman would provide you with information about what resources are available.

Newman Tools Inc has an office in Ottawa.  They used to be an interface for Thurston.   Thurston is no more.  Madco is an alternative.  Perhaps, THE alternative in this hemisphere.
Perhaps communicating with Newman would provide you with information about what resources are available.

Newman Tools Inc has an office in Ottawa.  They used to be an interface for Thurston.   Thurston is no more.  Madco is an alternative.  Perhaps, THE alternative in this hemisphere.
Perhaps communicating with Newman would provide you with information about what resources are available.

Not a recommendation,  just a comment:
My background is in the Biological Sciences, and HMS Beagle has a role similar to an icon. Beagle had been a will-o'-the-wisp as a subject for a model until 1997.  Then it became my first choice to build after retirement because Karl Heinz Marquardt authored an Anatomy Of The Ship volume covering HMS Beagle.   I scratch build and have been able to loft the framing for this ship, using the information and plans in the book.  I even have the necessary stock of framing wood.  I have long  been diverted from building Beagle.  I have decided to use 1:60 as the scale for all of the ships that I model.  I have a "rule" against modeling a ship that is available as a kit.   Sort of like the on going mission of the Starship Enterprise: "to go where....".  This new OcCre kit - at 1:60 - has provided me with a bit of a dilemma.  Being POF it would not be mistaken for the kit, but still...  OK, enough irrelevant rambling!
The AOTS volume - while possibly difficult to buy - is probably also the basis of the kit.  It also provides information that allows for an extraordinary level of detail - if you so choose.  In addition the information and level of detail for the spars, rigging and sails is extensive and is matched by only a few other vessels.   If the rigging gives you pause, the kit plus the book provides enough information  that an y impediment will be at the level of your effort and not due to a lack of information.

I have no recommendations for your choice of kit.  From the ones that you have chosen to collect, none appear to be all that difficult.  No liners or large frigates, so you are not trying to learn on a subject that would tax anyone, experience or not.  I commend you for that bit of wisdom.
 
Were you venturing into scratch,  first, for milling, irrespective of dust collection equipment, you would want to do it in an out building.  The same for shaping with a belt or drum sander, they throw too much dust for a living area.   Ideal, for me for the big guns, a hole on the wall with a clothes dryer or cooking hood outside fixture - but more insulation.   Attach that to a hose venting a Rigid 14 gal. shop vac in a sound baffle box ( it is not all that loud, compared to older model shop vacs, but being able to hear music while it is on is nice ).  a quality RIF remote ON/OFF switch.  Intermediate - something like a Dust Deputy cyclone trap - easier to dump and saves having to clear the vac filter so often.  
 
For in the house,  a smaller size portable canister vacuum - the kind that is easier to clean stairs with - bagless is good.   For a spray booth,  I do not see why a large corrugated  cardboard box - you can strengthen it by PVA gluing more layers of cardboard onto it  A furnace filter at the back and a hose connection for the canister vac hose.  LED strips are light weight and generate relatively little heat = inside the box.
 
 

I got plans for HMS Prince a long time ago.  I later worked thru part of the exercise in Deane's Doctrine in developing plans for a first rate of about 1670.  In doing this, I learned that vessel length was based on touch of the keel.  When I checked the plans of HMS Prince, I found that its length was based on LBP, not touch.  The model plans were about 25-30 feet too short.  Because they used the model in the Science Museum to provide the deck details, the deck is a bit crowded - trying to squeeze in the hatches and bits and such and the gunports were too close together.  Plus, the model looks short and fat.   
If your plans are too short, you can measure the distance from the front edge of the keel to the scraph of the stem at the gundeck and the back edge of the keel to the scarph on the sternpost.  Add this distance to the center of the Keel piece at the dead flat (midship mold).  Make two more copies of the midship mold and add them on either side of "0" and  call one "A" and the other "1".  You will need to adjust the gunports, and deck furniture between the quarterdeck and forecastle, but you will have the correct distance to place it all.  This will save having to redraft the hull lines

I have no recommendations for your choice of kit.  From the ones that you have chosen to collect, none appear to be all that difficult.  No liners or large frigates, so you are not trying to learn on a subject that would tax anyone, experience or not.  I commend you for that bit of wisdom.
 
Were you venturing into scratch,  first, for milling, irrespective of dust collection equipment, you would want to do it in an out building.  The same for shaping with a belt or drum sander, they throw too much dust for a living area.   Ideal, for me for the big guns, a hole on the wall with a clothes dryer or cooking hood outside fixture - but more insulation.   Attach that to a hose venting a Rigid 14 gal. shop vac in a sound baffle box ( it is not all that loud, compared to older model shop vacs, but being able to hear music while it is on is nice ).  a quality RIF remote ON/OFF switch.  Intermediate - something like a Dust Deputy cyclone trap - easier to dump and saves having to clear the vac filter so often.  
 
For in the house,  a smaller size portable canister vacuum - the kind that is easier to clean stairs with - bagless is good.   For a spray booth,  I do not see why a large corrugated  cardboard box - you can strengthen it by PVA gluing more layers of cardboard onto it  A furnace filter at the back and a hose connection for the canister vac hose.  LED strips are light weight and generate relatively little heat = inside the box.
 
 

For temporary and down and dirty way to avoid having to go thru the cleaning process in the future:
Make a wire frame - using wire that is at least as thick as what the old style wire clothes hangers were made from.
Cover it with clear plastic - 4 mil or 6 mil vapor barrier would be ideal, but clear plastic food wrap would work.
When you wish to show the model off, just remove the cage.  It may be ugly, but it seems to me that most anything is better than
having to do the conservator cleaning thing.

For temporary and down and dirty way to avoid having to go thru the cleaning process in the future:
Make a wire frame - using wire that is at least as thick as what the old style wire clothes hangers were made from.
Cover it with clear plastic - 4 mil or 6 mil vapor barrier would be ideal, but clear plastic food wrap would work.
When you wish to show the model off, just remove the cage.  It may be ugly, but it seems to me that most anything is better than
having to do the conservator cleaning thing.