Jaager

You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood:
a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru.
a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface  - it enhances the natural grain.
two types of dye - alcohol and water -
alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface.
water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish.
a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA  to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution.  no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface.
 
If you use crap wood, using a stain is  a good choice.  If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.

You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood:
a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru.
a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface  - it enhances the natural grain.
two types of dye - alcohol and water -
alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface.
water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish.
a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA  to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution.  no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface.
 
If you use crap wood, using a stain is  a good choice.  If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.

There is a PDF and/or HTML from Hobby Mill (Jeff)  covering the operation of the Byrnes saw and recommended blades .
I would get a backup for each blade.  The bevel cut option may not be cost effective.  The cross cut sliding table is elegant
but you could cobble something to do the same function from low cost materials.  Do a search here for the saw accessories post.
I regret not having the proper attribution here, but an excellent version of the cross cut table is shown - where the table is short enough on one side to allow the fence to stay.  The deluxe fence is good to have as is the micro adjustment.
 
I wonder if there would be a price break on shipping if several units were together - if more than one of your fellow countrymen did a group deal?
Time has a way of having things available today, impossible to obtain in the future.

Good Evening JD;
 
Boxwood is wonderful stuff! I love its tight grain and smooth surfaces. But it does have its limits, and I would suggest that your chosen method of construction exceeds them, unfortunately.
 
Natural wood, even when kiln-dried, will distort over time if the moisture content in the atmosphere is different to that in which it was previously stored, or to the percentage to which it was dried. 
 
To be honest, cutting whole frames from a single sheet is inadvisable, as it is going to include a variety of short-length grain patterns which will have an inherent instability. The only way to counteract this tendency, and assuming the timber is dried/seasoned to start with, is to assemble the frames and keel quickly and use fairly stout stringers or filler blocks between each frame.
 
Depending upon how much of your frames will be seen, you would probably do better to use plywood up to deck level, and rebate short lengths of boxwood frame into the top of these to form the bulwark timbers. 
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

How disappointing! My first suspicion would be that the wood was improperly dried or poorly seasoned. Either that, and/or the log the wood was not quarter cut. In my own experience, wood will move where it wants to. You could try the remedy suggested above, but this may prove to only be a temporary solution.
 
In 'real' boats, wood grain more or less follows the contour of the frame which is built in sections. There are no cross-grained areas. This gives maximum strength, as well as minimizes the problem of warpage. Perhaps you might want to rethink how you are going to construct your model.

I looked up Teak on the Wood Database.  A light colored wood that takes aniline wood dyes well and treat it with a light concentration of Walnut.
Some of what is sold as Walnut in Europe looks similar to Teak, but is too open pore to scale down effectively.
What we usually mean by Walnut in the US = Juglans nigra  is much too dark.

yes, by size, I mean volume.  Although, the difference in any one dimension is 1/2,  A model of ...say.. HMS Victory  at 1:48 .   compared to a model of the same ship at 1:96 -  it would take 8 models @ 1:96 to fill the volume occupied by the 1:48 copy.

Using 1:48 as a bench mark=
scale              Vol            length          1 inch
1:48                 1                 1               0.0208
1:76                0.25             0.63           0.0131
1:96               0.125            0.5             0.0104
1:103             0.10              0.465         0.009
 
a model is a 3D
while going from 1:48 to 1:96  means that a part is 1/2 the length, it is also 1/2 the width and 1/2 the depth so the size of the part is 1/8
 
@ 1:96  a part that is 1:76 would be twice the scale
1:100 is probably close enough not to be noted.

I sort of recently viewed pictures of an old model - I think it was French - probably NRJ - anyway,  it was plank fastened with iron nails.
They were almost gone and the wood around the nails was stained.  The wood may have been Oak, which has reactive compounds,
but as the old saw goes = rust never sleeps.

You might consider using what you have and darkening it.
 
Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish, 3-Ounce    Amazon
 
Do a search here to get more information.

You might consider using what you have and darkening it.
 
Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish, 3-Ounce    Amazon
 
Do a search here to get more information.

Do you have areas of the keel that will be cut away or not seen on the finished model? Are these areas widely spaced and cover the ends of the keel?

I sort of recently viewed pictures of an old model - I think it was French - probably NRJ - anyway,  it was plank fastened with iron nails.
They were almost gone and the wood around the nails was stained.  The wood may have been Oak, which has reactive compounds,
but as the old saw goes = rust never sleeps.

I sort of recently viewed pictures of an old model - I think it was French - probably NRJ - anyway,  it was plank fastened with iron nails.
They were almost gone and the wood around the nails was stained.  The wood may have been Oak, which has reactive compounds,
but as the old saw goes = rust never sleeps.

Using 1:48 as a bench mark=
scale              Vol            length          1 inch
1:48                 1                 1               0.0208
1:76                0.25             0.63           0.0131
1:96               0.125            0.5             0.0104
1:103             0.10              0.465         0.009
 
a model is a 3D
while going from 1:48 to 1:96  means that a part is 1/2 the length, it is also 1/2 the width and 1/2 the depth so the size of the part is 1/8
 
@ 1:96  a part that is 1:76 would be twice the scale
1:100 is probably close enough not to be noted.

If your moulds are plywood, the bond can be improved by pre-treating the end grain sections.  For Hard Maple and Black Cherry, I pre- treat with a 50-50 PVA - water to fill the pores.  For plywood, I would go up to 4 - 1 or 5-1 PVA - water as the openings are much larger. Just avoid any glue buildup on the surface.  24-48 hrs setup time.

When the bonding surfaces are aligned correctly, PVA forms a bond that is stronger than the wood fibers.  PVA comes in many flavors, the two major divisions are white and yellow.  I do not know the strength differences - if any.  For your purpose, the translucent may not have been as good a choice of PVA as you could have made. 
That said, the weakest of wood to wood bonds is when end grain is involved.  It is possible that the edge of the plywood mould had a lot of end grain as the bonding surface.  Pine or Fir plywood would be a weak surface with large pores.
The strength of a PVA bond is proportional to clamping pressure.  The closer the two surfaces are, the stronger the bond.  The upper limit is when the pressure deforms the outer surface of the wood being clamped.  PVA forms long interlinking chains as it cures.  In 24 hrs, the bulk of the chemical reaction has occurred. 
Rather than convicting the adhesive, examine the surfaces-  how close were they?  how much of the mould surface was actually in the same plane with the plank?  Beveling is a skill.  In POB, it is difficult to apply enough pressure.  Some POB practitioners "fatten" the space between the moulds with additional wood to supply more surface area and allow for one layer of planking to be sufficient.
Additional wood pieces can be cut and fitted to the inside after the plank has been fitted, but since no real force can be applied, the bond will not be strong.

Drafting gun ports must be boring,  subject to lapses in precision, and more than a few plans have some of them as inconsistent in their pattern.
 
When lofting, I pick a port at midship and develop a gauge/jig for the the distance of the sill and lentil from the underside of deck planking/top of deck beams.  I add the thickness of the sill and lentil timbers to size the opening.  I use this gauge for the rest of the ports, rather than using the profile to determine gun port height,.  Transferring the data to a card and installing the beams before finishing the ports gets the slope of the sill parallel to the deck for each.
 
 

If your moulds are plywood, the bond can be improved by pre-treating the end grain sections.  For Hard Maple and Black Cherry, I pre- treat with a 50-50 PVA - water to fill the pores.  For plywood, I would go up to 4 - 1 or 5-1 PVA - water as the openings are much larger. Just avoid any glue buildup on the surface.  24-48 hrs setup time.

When the bonding surfaces are aligned correctly, PVA forms a bond that is stronger than the wood fibers.  PVA comes in many flavors, the two major divisions are white and yellow.  I do not know the strength differences - if any.  For your purpose, the translucent may not have been as good a choice of PVA as you could have made. 
That said, the weakest of wood to wood bonds is when end grain is involved.  It is possible that the edge of the plywood mould had a lot of end grain as the bonding surface.  Pine or Fir plywood would be a weak surface with large pores.
The strength of a PVA bond is proportional to clamping pressure.  The closer the two surfaces are, the stronger the bond.  The upper limit is when the pressure deforms the outer surface of the wood being clamped.  PVA forms long interlinking chains as it cures.  In 24 hrs, the bulk of the chemical reaction has occurred. 
Rather than convicting the adhesive, examine the surfaces-  how close were they?  how much of the mould surface was actually in the same plane with the plank?  Beveling is a skill.  In POB, it is difficult to apply enough pressure.  Some POB practitioners "fatten" the space between the moulds with additional wood to supply more surface area and allow for one layer of planking to be sufficient.
Additional wood pieces can be cut and fitted to the inside after the plank has been fitted, but since no real force can be applied, the bond will not be strong.

If your moulds are plywood, the bond can be improved by pre-treating the end grain sections.  For Hard Maple and Black Cherry, I pre- treat with a 50-50 PVA - water to fill the pores.  For plywood, I would go up to 4 - 1 or 5-1 PVA - water as the openings are much larger. Just avoid any glue buildup on the surface.  24-48 hrs setup time.

When the bonding surfaces are aligned correctly, PVA forms a bond that is stronger than the wood fibers.  PVA comes in many flavors, the two major divisions are white and yellow.  I do not know the strength differences - if any.  For your purpose, the translucent may not have been as good a choice of PVA as you could have made. 
That said, the weakest of wood to wood bonds is when end grain is involved.  It is possible that the edge of the plywood mould had a lot of end grain as the bonding surface.  Pine or Fir plywood would be a weak surface with large pores.
The strength of a PVA bond is proportional to clamping pressure.  The closer the two surfaces are, the stronger the bond.  The upper limit is when the pressure deforms the outer surface of the wood being clamped.  PVA forms long interlinking chains as it cures.  In 24 hrs, the bulk of the chemical reaction has occurred. 
Rather than convicting the adhesive, examine the surfaces-  how close were they?  how much of the mould surface was actually in the same plane with the plank?  Beveling is a skill.  In POB, it is difficult to apply enough pressure.  Some POB practitioners "fatten" the space between the moulds with additional wood to supply more surface area and allow for one layer of planking to be sufficient.
Additional wood pieces can be cut and fitted to the inside after the plank has been fitted, but since no real force can be applied, the bond will not be strong.

When the bonding surfaces are aligned correctly, PVA forms a bond that is stronger than the wood fibers.  PVA comes in many flavors, the two major divisions are white and yellow.  I do not know the strength differences - if any.  For your purpose, the translucent may not have been as good a choice of PVA as you could have made. 
That said, the weakest of wood to wood bonds is when end grain is involved.  It is possible that the edge of the plywood mould had a lot of end grain as the bonding surface.  Pine or Fir plywood would be a weak surface with large pores.
The strength of a PVA bond is proportional to clamping pressure.  The closer the two surfaces are, the stronger the bond.  The upper limit is when the pressure deforms the outer surface of the wood being clamped.  PVA forms long interlinking chains as it cures.  In 24 hrs, the bulk of the chemical reaction has occurred. 
Rather than convicting the adhesive, examine the surfaces-  how close were they?  how much of the mould surface was actually in the same plane with the plank?  Beveling is a skill.  In POB, it is difficult to apply enough pressure.  Some POB practitioners "fatten" the space between the moulds with additional wood to supply more surface area and allow for one layer of planking to be sufficient.
Additional wood pieces can be cut and fitted to the inside after the plank has been fitted, but since no real force can be applied, the bond will not be strong.

When the bonding surfaces are aligned correctly, PVA forms a bond that is stronger than the wood fibers.  PVA comes in many flavors, the two major divisions are white and yellow.  I do not know the strength differences - if any.  For your purpose, the translucent may not have been as good a choice of PVA as you could have made. 
That said, the weakest of wood to wood bonds is when end grain is involved.  It is possible that the edge of the plywood mould had a lot of end grain as the bonding surface.  Pine or Fir plywood would be a weak surface with large pores.
The strength of a PVA bond is proportional to clamping pressure.  The closer the two surfaces are, the stronger the bond.  The upper limit is when the pressure deforms the outer surface of the wood being clamped.  PVA forms long interlinking chains as it cures.  In 24 hrs, the bulk of the chemical reaction has occurred. 
Rather than convicting the adhesive, examine the surfaces-  how close were they?  how much of the mould surface was actually in the same plane with the plank?  Beveling is a skill.  In POB, it is difficult to apply enough pressure.  Some POB practitioners "fatten" the space between the moulds with additional wood to supply more surface area and allow for one layer of planking to be sufficient.
Additional wood pieces can be cut and fitted to the inside after the plank has been fitted, but since no real force can be applied, the bond will not be strong.

More 110V outlets than you think you will need - on every wall - most above benchtop level - some switched.
One 220V outlet placed where you have about 6 sq ft of open floor space.
Dust collection as a primary design factor - with the ability to have the vac unit in a separate space - for sound separation - your ears will thank you.
But easy access to deal with the collected material.