Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Dan Vadas in Thickness sander
Two of the variables
width of the piece
grit of the sanding medium
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Thickness sander
Two of the variables
width of the piece
grit of the sanding medium
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Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Thickness sander
Two of the variables
width of the piece
grit of the sanding medium
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Thickness sander
Two of the variables
width of the piece
grit of the sanding medium
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Poplar for modeling
You could use it for that, if it is Yellow Poplar that is the subject here.
It is closed pore and has a tight grain. It is not brittle or fuzzy.
It is an excellent choice for solid and lift style hulls. The mark
against it for POF framing is that it is light weight and for smaller
vessels below 1:48 in scale, I would be worried about the strength
of the frame.
You offer no location information. If you are eastern US, check the
cost for Hard Maple. It should be about $5 /bf. It approaches what
passes for Boxwood these days in hardness and is much stronger than Yellow Poplar.
It will produce much more wear on saw blades however, but the feel of working it
in these small scales, is I find, more satisfying.
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Jaager got a reaction from tasmanian in Poplar for modeling
You could use it for that, if it is Yellow Poplar that is the subject here.
It is closed pore and has a tight grain. It is not brittle or fuzzy.
It is an excellent choice for solid and lift style hulls. The mark
against it for POF framing is that it is light weight and for smaller
vessels below 1:48 in scale, I would be worried about the strength
of the frame.
You offer no location information. If you are eastern US, check the
cost for Hard Maple. It should be about $5 /bf. It approaches what
passes for Boxwood these days in hardness and is much stronger than Yellow Poplar.
It will produce much more wear on saw blades however, but the feel of working it
in these small scales, is I find, more satisfying.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Poplar for modeling
You could use it for that, if it is Yellow Poplar that is the subject here.
It is closed pore and has a tight grain. It is not brittle or fuzzy.
It is an excellent choice for solid and lift style hulls. The mark
against it for POF framing is that it is light weight and for smaller
vessels below 1:48 in scale, I would be worried about the strength
of the frame.
You offer no location information. If you are eastern US, check the
cost for Hard Maple. It should be about $5 /bf. It approaches what
passes for Boxwood these days in hardness and is much stronger than Yellow Poplar.
It will produce much more wear on saw blades however, but the feel of working it
in these small scales, is I find, more satisfying.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Poplar for modeling
You could use it for that, if it is Yellow Poplar that is the subject here.
It is closed pore and has a tight grain. It is not brittle or fuzzy.
It is an excellent choice for solid and lift style hulls. The mark
against it for POF framing is that it is light weight and for smaller
vessels below 1:48 in scale, I would be worried about the strength
of the frame.
You offer no location information. If you are eastern US, check the
cost for Hard Maple. It should be about $5 /bf. It approaches what
passes for Boxwood these days in hardness and is much stronger than Yellow Poplar.
It will produce much more wear on saw blades however, but the feel of working it
in these small scales, is I find, more satisfying.
-
Jaager got a reaction from JerryTodd in Poplar for modeling
You could use it for that, if it is Yellow Poplar that is the subject here.
It is closed pore and has a tight grain. It is not brittle or fuzzy.
It is an excellent choice for solid and lift style hulls. The mark
against it for POF framing is that it is light weight and for smaller
vessels below 1:48 in scale, I would be worried about the strength
of the frame.
You offer no location information. If you are eastern US, check the
cost for Hard Maple. It should be about $5 /bf. It approaches what
passes for Boxwood these days in hardness and is much stronger than Yellow Poplar.
It will produce much more wear on saw blades however, but the feel of working it
in these small scales, is I find, more satisfying.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Seventynet in Poplar for modeling
You could use it for that, if it is Yellow Poplar that is the subject here.
It is closed pore and has a tight grain. It is not brittle or fuzzy.
It is an excellent choice for solid and lift style hulls. The mark
against it for POF framing is that it is light weight and for smaller
vessels below 1:48 in scale, I would be worried about the strength
of the frame.
You offer no location information. If you are eastern US, check the
cost for Hard Maple. It should be about $5 /bf. It approaches what
passes for Boxwood these days in hardness and is much stronger than Yellow Poplar.
It will produce much more wear on saw blades however, but the feel of working it
in these small scales, is I find, more satisfying.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in black ash for ship modeling
For POB, you might use it for the first layer of planking with a two layer method.
or for the fill/backing material between molds ("bulkheads") if you opt for one layer
of planking on a solid support method.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in black ash for ship modeling
It is a relatively soft hardwood ; less than Black Cherry, but about 50% harder than Yellow Poplar.
It should work fairly easily.
The negatives are a course grain and open pores. It does not scale well.
If you use it for hidden components, it should do OK.
If it is of a surface that is painted, an additional step to fill the pores (Plaster 0f Paris) would probably be needed.
Clear finished - the grain could be a distraction.
For frames on a fully planked hull, it should work and if you get a deal, save you money -
framing is probably the most timber intensive part and has the most waste.
Being softer, it will be easier to remove too much, too fast, so a light touch when shaping.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in black ash for ship modeling
It is a relatively soft hardwood ; less than Black Cherry, but about 50% harder than Yellow Poplar.
It should work fairly easily.
The negatives are a course grain and open pores. It does not scale well.
If you use it for hidden components, it should do OK.
If it is of a surface that is painted, an additional step to fill the pores (Plaster 0f Paris) would probably be needed.
Clear finished - the grain could be a distraction.
For frames on a fully planked hull, it should work and if you get a deal, save you money -
framing is probably the most timber intensive part and has the most waste.
Being softer, it will be easier to remove too much, too fast, so a light touch when shaping.
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Jaager got a reaction from Martin W in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Mike,
Swiss Pear is not a variety of pear. Pyrus communis is the common European Pear.
It is used as root stock for fruit pear varieties? The tree itself does not produce desirable
fruit but is a horticultural specimen? If the wood is steamed, it turns a uniform pink.
This treatment is the "Swiss" part. I believe that the wood from any type of pear -
Asian or European is excellent for any part of a wooden ship model: from keel and
frames to spars. If your stock did not split and check into useless fragments as it
dried or bark beetles did not mine it out , you may come to regret shortening the pieces.
Most any pear wood has a color that looks good as keel, frames and planking. It is
hard, tight grained, does not easily split if you carve against the grain - and seems
almost ivory-like in consistency.
When I posted earlier about Bradford Pear not having tight grain, that was the wrong term,
what I meant was that the tree grows rapidly - so the bands of Spring and Summer woods are
wide. For some parts it is possible to have what shows be grain free - all of one season. I have a bit of
Boxwood from an old hedge that had grown very slowly. The rings are very narrow and very
close together.
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Barlett pear is a variety of eatable pear. It is actually a variety of Pyrus communis - the tree that is
the source of what is called Swiss Pear. Swiss Pear is not a tree name or growth location, it means that the wood
has been steamed. I believe this oxidizes the polyphenols in the wood - in any case - it turns the wood into
a relatively uniform pinkish color.
Bradford Pear is a cousin that is a horticultural specimen. It does not produce significant fruit, but it is urban hardy,
attractive flowers and grows relatively fast. Was or still is popular as a street tree. It has one unfortunate characteristic -
the branches leave the trunk at an acute angle - rather than horizontal. The more vertical form looks good and is
predictable from design point of view. The problem is that when the larger trees experience wind storms, the branches
peal like banana skins. A good way for us to get a lot of sizable lumber stock. The other part - if you self harvest it -
because of the branch angle, it is difficult to get much stock with right angle grain for knees or breast hooks.
Actually, I think most any species of Pear would produce excellent wood for our purposes, the problem is obtaining it.
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Dogwood I have. A relative owns a tree farm in Caroline Co. and I have Dogwood and Holly from there.
The Holly has a yellowish tinge so even if there was interest in marketing that difficult species, the available
strain does not seem to be a desired one. For me, even the billets that have Blue Mold should be usable,
since the pure white version is not really appropriate for any ship timber.
The Dogwood was about as large as that species gets, so my billets are fairly large. Not large enough for
frame timbers at 1:48 or 1:60 scale, but I could use it for most any other part.
I am not sure that Crab Apple is all that different from regular Apple wood. One species that may be surprisingly
useful is Bradford Pear. It has anything but fine tight grain, but it is much harder than Black Cherry to carve,
does not want to split, and has a wax-like nature to it.
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Before the Dockyard tools - the suggestions involved making your own from steel rod
or knitting needles. Amazon sells packs of steel rods - some quite small.
The heating and blacksmithing and grinding edges onto rods as well as Rockwell scale tempering
and quenching is getting into a whole new set of skills. Dockyard did most of that for us, but if
they are gone, the tools can be home made.
As far as wood - I have my eye on genuine Boxwood and Dogwood. One that I not been able
to source is Hawthorn. There is a material that flashed in our world a while ago, but did not take
for some reason: an ivory substitute - Targa Nut.
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Jaager got a reaction from Anja in Greetings! and request for input on which ship for first POF
An advantage with scratch building is that a reasonable set of plans is all you need to start.
The one tool you do not mention is a saw capable of resawing 1" and 2" lumber into stock
for use with a thickness sander and the Byrnes saw. A 14" bandsaw is ideal, a tablesaw
can do it, but is more unforgiving and the loss to kerf is about twice or more.
For detailed plans ANCRE offers a sizable inventory of monographs of individual vessels and several are of a vessel complexity that
would make a prudent choice as an initial project: cutter, brig, schooner. These are French
in origin and there are also other smaller indigenous types. The French products are generally
elegant in design and appearance.
On cursory thought, the similar monographs for English or American vessels are 3 mast - larger
vessels that can be a bit over whelming for a beginner.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Greetings! and request for input on which ship for first POF
An advantage with scratch building is that a reasonable set of plans is all you need to start.
The one tool you do not mention is a saw capable of resawing 1" and 2" lumber into stock
for use with a thickness sander and the Byrnes saw. A 14" bandsaw is ideal, a tablesaw
can do it, but is more unforgiving and the loss to kerf is about twice or more.
For detailed plans ANCRE offers a sizable inventory of monographs of individual vessels and several are of a vessel complexity that
would make a prudent choice as an initial project: cutter, brig, schooner. These are French
in origin and there are also other smaller indigenous types. The French products are generally
elegant in design and appearance.
On cursory thought, the similar monographs for English or American vessels are 3 mast - larger
vessels that can be a bit over whelming for a beginner.
-
Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Greetings! and request for input on which ship for first POF
An advantage with scratch building is that a reasonable set of plans is all you need to start.
The one tool you do not mention is a saw capable of resawing 1" and 2" lumber into stock
for use with a thickness sander and the Byrnes saw. A 14" bandsaw is ideal, a tablesaw
can do it, but is more unforgiving and the loss to kerf is about twice or more.
For detailed plans ANCRE offers a sizable inventory of monographs of individual vessels and several are of a vessel complexity that
would make a prudent choice as an initial project: cutter, brig, schooner. These are French
in origin and there are also other smaller indigenous types. The French products are generally
elegant in design and appearance.
On cursory thought, the similar monographs for English or American vessels are 3 mast - larger
vessels that can be a bit over whelming for a beginner.
-
Jaager got a reaction from geoff in Greetings! and request for input on which ship for first POF
An advantage with scratch building is that a reasonable set of plans is all you need to start.
The one tool you do not mention is a saw capable of resawing 1" and 2" lumber into stock
for use with a thickness sander and the Byrnes saw. A 14" bandsaw is ideal, a tablesaw
can do it, but is more unforgiving and the loss to kerf is about twice or more.
For detailed plans ANCRE offers a sizable inventory of monographs of individual vessels and several are of a vessel complexity that
would make a prudent choice as an initial project: cutter, brig, schooner. These are French
in origin and there are also other smaller indigenous types. The French products are generally
elegant in design and appearance.
On cursory thought, the similar monographs for English or American vessels are 3 mast - larger
vessels that can be a bit over whelming for a beginner.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
I have the Unimat SL1000 and it sets up as a mill.
I ordered a spare Al bed and intend to cut and
mount it at the rear center of the ways to get full excursion up
and down the ways. I have not done it yet.
I also got the lathe duplication jig from Penn Valley.
My focus has been on lofting and framing so I have not needed either
function for a while.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
I have the Unimat SL1000 and it sets up as a mill.
I ordered a spare Al bed and intend to cut and
mount it at the rear center of the ways to get full excursion up
and down the ways. I have not done it yet.
I also got the lathe duplication jig from Penn Valley.
My focus has been on lofting and framing so I have not needed either
function for a while.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Steel's Naval Architecture
Dan,
I was commenting on the book. I had not seen this topic until you revived it Anyway, I checked and my reprint is of the 1805 edition
and Plate 38 is the last in the Plates supplement volume.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Steel's Naval Architecture
Dan,
I was commenting on the book. I had not seen this topic until you revived it Anyway, I checked and my reprint is of the 1805 edition
and Plate 38 is the last in the Plates supplement volume.
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