Jump to content

Best Wood Filler to use on ship hull

Recommended Posts

I found that a number of different fillers worked depending on the situation. If it is a small crack that will be painted over, then the white speckling compound worked great. For small cracks that would be stained over, I tend to put some wood glue in the crack then sand over it allowing the dust to fill in the crack.


If you are painting over an area and have a large defect to fill, then you could use epoxy in it's various forms since it can be sanded and shaped after setting. If you are staining, I have not found any filler that could be used on larger areas (other than a small crack) that would not show up after sanding. The manner it absorbs the stain and the texture give it away.


If you are truing a first planking for a second planking, then almost any filler would do as long as it adhered well to the wood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the filler is to be painted or planked over, then I have found spackle compound the best for the job. It sands very easily and has such a fine grain it is undetectable under paint. 

A good tip is to wipe some super/crazy glue over the entire filled area after you have sanded it smooth. The filler soaks up the glue and it hardens and toughens to an amazing degree.  

Edited by overdale
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried Bondo? It is east to mix, hardens quickly, sands to an invisible feather edge and is cheap. 30 Yeats ago I build a clyindrical body od the boiler for steam cutter model by turning a slug of Bondo on a metal lathe. It has held up well. I should also add that it bonds well to wood. I keep a can in my shop and use it often.


For those readers from across the pond, Bondo is the proprietary name for a polyester paste putty used by the auto body repair trade.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the Tamiya white putty also. Rather than waiting for it to dry and then sanding, I apply it wait about 5 minutes then wipe it down with lacquer thinner on a paper towel. You'll find that a lot of the putty wipes off with no sanding - what's left smooths out nicely. Also the paper towel is rough enough to leave a bit of texture to what's left.  If you do your last wipes following the wood grain, the texture kind of steaks with the grain. What putty is left looks a little like a wood surface.


Just be sure to do this in a well ventilated area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fortunately, I needed very little filler. Where I did, I used Testor's Contour Putty (gray tube). It dried fast and sanded easy. The other thing was that MS Primer was extremely thick. So when I primed the area, it filled the gaps nicely and retained the plank shapes defining them nicely. It also sanded easily. My only problem was that MS's paints do leave brush marks, and the primer wasn't that easy to completely cover sometimes taking 3 coats, but overall I was pleased with the outcome.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...